Higashi-Nakano
Open 6pm-midnight (LO 10:45). Closed Mondays.
We love it when restaurants improve with age, and the food at Pao has gotten noticeably better over time. It was always a fun destination - you sit on thick carpets at tiny tables while listening to...
Open 6pm-midnight (LO 10:45). Closed Mondays.
Open 8am-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Marvel at the huge selection of genuine French terrines, quiches, tarts and cakes to take out. From the management of Brin de Muguet restaurant in Ogikubo.
Open 8am-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
The extensive sake collection here includes a good range of Juyondai, including some rare bottles. The master is quite exacting in his recommendations, so be prepared to be quizzed about your tastes...
Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Open 11:30am-11pm (-6pm Sun). Closed Mondays.
The very artsy cafe includes a gallery space in back where you can catch the latest exhibit while enjoying coffee or cocktails; there's also window seating up front, a few outdoor tables, and a movie...
Open 11:30am-11pm (-6pm Sun). Closed Mondays.
Open 10am-6:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
This rather serious liquor store carries lots of limited-edition premium sakes from around the country, including a big selection of premium one-cup sake. They also handle shochu and awamori.
Open 10am-6:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Nakano
Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Very good, down-home south Indian cuisine - the nan and tandoori items are especially good. Lunch starts at around Y800, with a curry-and-tandoori thali platter for Y1150. Budget around Y2000 for...
Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Open 10am-6pm. Closed Sundays.
Cakes, pies, cookies and muffins made by New York baker Kyle Sexton.
Open 10am-6pm. Closed Sundays.
Open 8am-11:30pm daily.
A lively branch of the Osaka-spawned cafe chain, Good Morning Cafe Nakano draws a crowd of Meiji University students and other Nakano denizens with its salt-butter caramel waffles (from 8am),...
Open 8am-11:30pm daily.
Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Splendid cooking by a great Italian chef. Lunch Y1000-1800; dinner Y3500 and Y5000.
Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Open 2-9pm. Closed Mondays.
This second branch of Koenji-based craft-beer bar Citraba serves 14 beers on tap from well-regarded breweries like Drake's (California), Westbrook (South Carolina), Sennan (Miyagi) and Distant Shores...
Open 2-9pm. Closed Mondays.
Open 11:30am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
The excellent spicy soup at Garaku is made from pork bones, chicken, onions, tomatoes, a splash of wine, and a secret blend of 21 herbs and spices. If you want some variety, in addition to regular...
Open 11:30am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Open 11am-9pm (Fri, Sat -11pm) daily.
Located in the midst the manga, anime and toy stores of Nakano Broadway, Bar Zingaro is a project of well-known pop artist Takashi Murakami. The cafe-bar opened in early 2014 along with four...
Open 11am-9pm (Fri, Sat -11pm) daily.
Open 5-11pm daily.
It's not fancy, but with its reliable food and very reasonable prices, this small yakitori chain offers good value for money.
Open 5-11pm daily.
Open noon-2, 4-10pm (LO) daily.
Tototo's pizza wizards turn out some of the most exciting pies in town, backed up by first-rate side dishes and an impressive (and very affordable) wine list. The attractive decor is sleekly...
Open noon-2, 4-10pm (LO) daily.
Open 10am-7pm. Closed Thursdays.
The ramen at this popular shop comes with big slabs of chashu that taste almost like ham.
Open 10am-7pm. Closed Thursdays.
Open 4pm-12:30am (Sat, Sun 12-) daily.
Hakata cuisine - traditional cooking from Fukuoka in northern Kyushu - is the specialty of this rather boisterous izakaya in Nakano's bar zone. Besides serving excellent food, Jidoriya offers a...
Open 4pm-12:30am (Sat, Sun 12-) daily.
Open 11:30am-1, 4-9:20pm (LO) daily.
Excellent grilled fish and meat cooked over an open hearth, robata-style. There's also sashimi and plenty of standard izakaya fare. The charmingly rustic two-story building is reminiscent of a...
Open 11:30am-1, 4-9:20pm (LO) daily.
Open 11:30am-12:30am daily.
The original Japanese curries here incorporate umami-rich coconut milk, ripe tomatoes and cheese as well as fresh seasonal vegetables. Some popular options (from Y730) are oysters and spinach with...
Open 11:30am-12:30am daily.
Open 10am-3am (Sun -1am) daily.
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the...
Open 10am-3am (Sun -1am) daily.
Open 5pm-3am daily.
A very casual local (non-standing) bar with reasonably priced wines. Most food items are priced at Y400 and come in tiny, bite-size portions.
Open 5pm-3am daily.
Open 6-10pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Terrific Turkish, Tunisian, and Lebanese specialties, great music, and a very comfortable atmosphere. The wine list covers the Mediterranean from Spain to Algeria to Morocco, with some nice Spanish...
Open 6-10pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Il Primo serves nice, down-home Italian fare prepared by an Italian-trained chef.
Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Open noon-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Mugs Cafe is the joint venture of three young designers, and the decor is a fusion of fifties cool and Asian lounge. The pan-Asian menu lists unusual items such as bahn mi Vietnamese sandwiches...
Open noon-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Tue, Wed, holidays.
Great Sri Lankan curries, hoppers and stir fries await the adventurous diner in this tiny Nakano hole in the wall. There's a big selection of daily specials to supplement the regular menu, with lots...
Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Tue, Wed, holidays.
Open noon-2:30, 6-8:30pm (LO) daily.
The very photogenic, multi-vegetable PiPi Curry is the specialty of the house here, featuring more than a dozen seasonal vegetables in a tasty Japanese European-style curry roux. The vegetables are...
Open noon-2:30, 6-8:30pm (LO) daily.
Koenji
Open noon-3:30, 6:30pm-12:30am (LO). Closed Mon, some Tue.
Tasty American-style burgers are the main draw at this casual diner, along with tacos and small tapas-style dishes. They also serve some top-notch craft beers from Nagano brewery Shiga Kogen on tap...
Open noon-3:30, 6:30pm-12:30am (LO). Closed Mon, some Tue.
Open 5-11:30pm (Sat, Sun 12-11:30) daily.
This spacious beer bar offers 16 or so well-chosen craft beers from breweries like Hopworks Urban Brewery (Portland, OR), Omnipollo (Stockholm), Wylam (Newcastle upon Tyne) and Outsider (Yamanashi). ...
Open 5-11:30pm (Sat, Sun 12-11:30) daily.
Open 5pm-5am daily.
A large, lively izakaya, Dachibin specializes in Okinawan cuisine and occasionally hosts performances of Okinawan musicians. There's a long counter and big tatami mat area - both usually packed. ...
Open 5pm-5am daily.
Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Make yourself comfortable at Koenji's Cafe Apartment, where you are given a pair of slippers at the door. The floor plan is that of a 1DK apartment, strikingly similar to the domiciles of many...
Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Open 11:30am-1am daily.
Spicy (but not crazy-spicy) Chinese-style tantanmen noodles in a thick, pork-filled soup are the specialty at this small shop. They also serve good gyoza dumplings as a side dish.
Open 11:30am-1am daily.
Open 6:30pm-12:30am (LO). Closed third Sunday.
A friendly neighborhood bistro, Day Food Lab serves creative European-international cuisine that doesn't take itself too seriously. You can choose from an eclectic menu of items like rocket-bacon...
Open 6:30pm-12:30am (LO). Closed third Sunday.
Open 3-8pm daily.
If you're on the hunt for unusual craft beers, this tiny retail shop specializes in small, innovative breweries from under-represented corners of the world. There seems to be a emphasis on fruit...
Open 3-8pm daily.
Open 4pm-midnight daily.
Located under the JR railroad tracks, this very casual drinking spot serves great charcoal-grilled beef on skewers, including a variety of organ meats. Surrounded by similarly inexpensive and...
Open 4pm-midnight daily.
Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
One of a highly regarded chain of budget-friendly south-Indian restaurants, this Koenji branch of Erick South specializes in biryani dishes, and does an excellent job of it. The staff here are...
Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.
Warayaki, or straw-roasted cooking, is a technique for quickly searing ingredients like chicken and bonito at very high temperatures. It's entertaining to watch, and the straw imparts a pleasant,...
Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.
Open 6pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Rojo Amigo Kitchen turns out very credible Mexican and Tex-Mex fare, ranging from more than a dozen burrito variations to less-often-found regional dishes like Cochinita Pibil (Yucatan-style...
Open 6pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Open 5pm-12:30am (LO; Sat, Sun 2pm-). Closed Tuesdays.
This pioneer in Tokyo's craft-beer scene (open since 2011) offers a dozen or so Japanese microbrews on tap along with a menu of bar snacks like curry rice, pate de campagne and "Mexican Salad." ...
Open 5pm-12:30am (LO; Sat, Sun 2pm-). Closed Tuesdays.
Open 11am-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian dishes at cheap prices, with lunch and dinner "sets" starting at Y750. Lunch served to 4pm.
Open 11am-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Open 5pm-5am (LO; Fri, Sat -6am, Sun -3am) daily.
If you're looking for a change of pace from Koenji's many crowded izakaya and craft-beer bars, Shimeji is a budget-friendly, old-fashioned pub-style bar. The interior is funky and unpretentious,...
Open 5pm-5am (LO; Fri, Sat -6am, Sun -3am) daily.
Open 9am-11pm daily.
Torisen's crunchy deep-fried chicken skin, aka "kawa-sembei," is very appealing, and the undisputed star of their take-out offerings. The fried chicken isn't bad either - flavored with garlic, soy...
Open 9am-11pm daily.
Asagaya
Open 6:30pm-2am daily.
If you find that your evening of Asagaya bar-hopping is getting too frenetic, this low-key Okinawan-inspired dive bar is a great place to slow the pace and chill out for a bit. The interior is...
Open 6:30pm-2am daily.
Open 4-11pm (LO) daily.
Yakiton (grilled pork on skewers) is the specialty at this budget-friendly local izakaya, along with grilled seasonal vegetables, grilled chicken and drink-friendly side dishes. At Y100 per skewer...
Open 4-11pm (LO) daily.
Open 6pm-2am daily.
A half-dozen beers from San Diego's Stone and other craft brewers are served on tap here, at prices ranging from Y980-Y1300 per pint. There's also a well-stocked retail shop with some fifty...
Open 6pm-2am daily.
Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
A small neighborhood joint (it would be hard to find if you didn't stumble across it) with about a dozen seats and proper Thailand-style Thai food. They serve good curries and some unusual regional...
Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Open 4-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Located along a bustling shopping arcade near Minami-Asagaya station, this charming local izakaya has a real neighborhood feel to it, with patrons of all ages. The specialty of the house is kushiage...
Open 4-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Ogikubo
Open 5-11:30pm (Sundays 10). Closed Mondays.
It's not fancy, but with its reliable food and very reasonable prices, this small yakitori chain offers good value for money.
Open 5-11:30pm (Sundays 10). Closed Mondays.
Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Located in an alleyway full of tiny drinking spots just across from Ogikubo station, Turquoise offers six Japanese craft beers on tap along with Suntory Malts'. There are five seats inside (where it...
Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Open 11am-10pm daily.
Fresh, not-too-expensive tempura in a pleasant department-store setting from this Shinjuku-based chain.
Open 11am-10pm daily.
★★Harukiya - Ramen: Ogikubo
Open 11am-9:30pm daily.
This long-running shop (founded in Showa 24) serves classic Tokyo-style ramen in a shoyu soup that's made with dried sardines. The wonton-men is especially recommended.
Open 11am-9:30pm daily.
Honmura An - Soba: Ogikubo
Open 11am-8:30pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
First-class soba -- they also had a very popular branch in New York City's Soho neighborhood.
Open 11am-8:30pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
Sympa - Wine bar: Ogikubo
Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Wednesdays.
This wine-bar restaurant is run by the chef from the old Dominus wine bar (which used to occupy this space) along with a new sommelier.
Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Wednesdays.
Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
This small neighborhood yoshoku-ya serves "European stews and English curries." Curry sauces are built on a fond de veau base and incorporate some 36 different spices, all on display on the shop's...
Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
Maru - Izakaya: Ogikubo
Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Gyumotsu nikomi (beef tripe stew) is the specialty here, and they also serve a decent selection of sake.
Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Nishi-Ogikubo
Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wed, 1st+3rd Tue.
Hidden among the quiet streets north of Nishi Ogikubo station lies Copo do Dia, a tiny cafe that also functions as an informal Brazilian cultural center. The space, with its heavy wooden tables and...
Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wed, 1st+3rd Tue.
Open 4pm-midnight daily.
Good, reliable yakitori and Yebisu beer. If they're full, check their branch(es) on the south side of the station.
Open 4pm-midnight daily.
Open 11am-9:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
A comfortable smoke-free cafe that serves good Singapore-style chicken rice, although unfortunately they only serve it with fragrant jasmine rice on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month; you get...
Open 11am-9:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Open 5:30pm-midnight. Closed some Mondays.
While you can find interesting and unusual sake choices at this old-school yakitori shop, the operation feels a bit disorganized - several of our choices were out of stock or almost finished, and it...
Open 5:30pm-midnight. Closed some Mondays.
Open 11:30am-2am (4am Fri,Sat) daily.
A bohemian-style cafe with music and food from Southeast Asia and the rest of the world. The menu at lunchtime is mostly Vietnamese, but there's a wider selection in the evening, including pastas.
Open 11:30am-2am (4am Fri,Sat) daily.
Open 4-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Good, reliable yakitori and Yebisu beer. This extremely popular neighbhorhood spot occupies four storefronts along this narrow alleyway, as well as a branch just north of the station.
Open 4-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Open 11:30am-2:30, 6:30-11pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
The specialty at Spoon is a hearty "French curry," prepared with European-style fond de veau stock and a mix of Indian spices, and it's one of the tastiest and most original Japanese curries in town....
Open 11:30am-2:30, 6:30-11pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
(Listings are continued in the Kichijoji guide.)
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