Yakiton is simply grilled pork on skewers, the porcine version of yakitori (grilled chicken). But while you can find fancy, upscale yakitori shops with stylish decor and nice wines, most yakiton specialists are cheap and casual. There's also an emphasis on organ meats such as liver, tongue, stomach and shiro (intestines) in addition to meatier cuts.

As with yakitori, you'll usually be given a choice of having your meat basted in sauce (tare) or simply sprinkled with salt (shio) before grilling. Grilled skewers often come with either yuzu-kosho (a spicy citrus-red peper paste) or mustard on the side. You can also add powdered red pepper that's supplied on your table or counter.

Motsu nikomi

Buta motsu nikomi (pork organ-meat stew) is a staple side dish at places that serve yakiton. 'Motsu' refers to organ meats, and motsu nikomi is a rich stew made by slowly simmering these meats in a thick broth, often miso-based. It tends to be a hearty dish with deep flavors well suited to accompanying sake, shochu, beer or wine.

Motsu-nikomi can be made from beef and chicken organ meats as well as pork, and gyu (beef) motsu-nikomi in particular is a traditional izakaya dish with a long history. Some Tokyo izakaya that are famous for their nikomi have been in business for fifty to a hundred years, maintaining their secret recipes through the decades.

Because they're so informal, izakaya that offer motsu nikomi and yakiton are usually quite comfortable for solo visitors or small groups to drop into for a quick drink and snack. They do vary somewhat in style - you can find lively after-work standing bars, more cozy traditional drinking spots with red lanterns out front, and also more modern places with good sake lists and non-smoking sections.

Other motsu dishes that you may run into are 'motsu-yaki,' which is grilled organ meats on skewers (often interchangeable with 'yakiton') and 'motsu-nabe,' which is a more substantial hotpot stew that's prepared in large batches for two or more people.