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Plum Wine in Tokyo
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ZuZu (Shinjuku Kabukicho)
Kabukicho can be a rough n' tumble neighborhood, but the stylish umeshu den ZUZU will take you far from the fray. The smart drink list offers eleven choices of popular umeshu like Saika and Kakutama, plus a few liqueurs based on anzu (apricot), yuzu and even decopon (the orange-tangerine hybrid). Lots of shochu, a short but sweet selection of nihon-shu, and oodles of cocktails give you more reasons to sit and linger, while dainty servings of chazuke - twelve kinds, as a matter of fact - and other small dishes provide delicious distractions from the hectic world outside. Budget around Y3000 for drinks and a light meal. No English spoken. [data]
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Butazo (Ikebukuro)
If you find yourself in Ikebukuro with a hankering for umeshu, look no further than Butazo, where giant pig lanterns hover luminously above the main dining space to add a dash of the bizarre to your dinner. Discover eighty kinds of umeshu and almost as many kinds of shochu as you nibble on tasty kushiyaki, miniature nabes and shabu-shabu, in addition to well-prepared izakaya standards. A couple of drinks and some substantial snacks will set you back about Y4000. No English. [data]
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Umetsubaki (Harajuku)
Umetsubaki is a pleasant place for novices to get to know plum wine. Serving one hundred kinds of umeshu and shochu, this chilled-out izakaya in Harajuku makes sampling a cinch, particularly for big groups. The drink menu logically organizes the choices according to base alcohol, while the staff will gladly offer recommendations. The diverse food menu features lightly herbed grilled lamb, deep-fried swordfish atop piquant onions, and peanut-tofu Caprese salad, as well as sashimi, tempura, and a few Okinawan favorites. All of the dishes are crafted to complement umeshu. Budget about Y5000 for the full experience. (Other locations include Shinjuku, Roppongi, and Ginza.) [data]
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Kutoma (Ikejiri-Ohashi)
Should 100 varieties prove insufficient for your needs, despair not. Behold the ume El Dorado, where up to 250 kinds of umeshu await you: Bar Kutoma. A tiny realm with room for about twenty, benevolently ruled by a soccer-loving umeshu expert, this late-night Ohashi spot offers tasting flights (umeshu kikisake set) for Y1000. Choose on your own or ask the owner to tailor a set to suit your tastes. There's not much in the way of food, but it's got to be the only place in town where a serious umeshu afficionado can get in touch with his masculine side by cheering for Arsenal. After the soccer games, DJs keep the vibe going, and frequent live events keep it real. Between Y2000-3000 should get you a few drinks plus otsumami like olives or pickles. A little English spoken. [data]
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If you're looking for a nice bottle to enjoy under the cherry or plum blossoms, choose from fifteen brands at Hasegawa Sakaten in Omotesando Hills (03-5785-0833) or check out Suzuki Mikawa Sake Shop in Akasaka (03-3583-2349). They sell about ten kinds of umeshu, all of which they will graciously allow you to sample for free. Be adventurous and taste the Katana Ume Eau de Vie, a strong and curious plum grappa. Heck, you don't have to wait for spring. Whether out on the town, in the midst of nature, or in the privacy of your own home, any time is a good time for umeshu. Kanpai! [data]
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by Melinda Joe
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