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Chilling in Tokyo - cafes, bars and hangouts
Chilling In Tokyo will guide you to the coolest cafes, bars, brunch spots and hangouts in the city.
cafe bars
wine bars
cocktail bars
Belgian beer bars
specialty drinks
brunch spots
special features
chill zones

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Cafe Troisgros: Nishi-Shinjuku
Cafe Troisgrois, a casual dining spot from Michelin-starred chef Michel Troisgrois, turns out speedy, well-prepared lunches that offer good value for money (from Y1500). During a recent lunchtime visit, a platter of mortadella, potatoes, and vegetables, dressed in a piquant mustard-vinaigrette, was straightforwardly tasty, while a salad of crunchy tsubugai shellfish and creamy avocado offered an interesting contrast of textures. The grilled pork chop, overlaying a bed of red cabbage and accompanied by a blob of whipped potato-and-garlic rouille sauce, was well worth its Y250 surcharge.

During off-peak hours (10-11am, 2-6pm), Cafe Troisgrois's teatime menu offers the same frothy coffee drinks and sweet treats you might expect at places like Afternoon Tea, but with an upscale, gourmet twist. Mascarpone mousse, served alongside orange and carrot ice cream, is adorned with a lacy sugar-crisp. Honey-coated rusk toasts are dusted with jasmine-scented sugar.

Tucked away behind the eighth-floor glassware department in Odakyu Department Store, the space is a bit difficult to find. Despite the bold purple-and-green color scheme and the pleasant view of Shinjuku, the feeling of being in a department store never completely goes away.

Dinner is served until 8:30pm, but the atmosphere is not exactly conducive to lingering. However, the Y1050 corkage fee, which allows you to bring up a bottle of wine from the Boutique Troisgrois in the basement, may provide an incentive to stay.
Ajirutei: Akasaka
Somewhere between bistro and beer hall lies the ambiguous territory of the wine izakaya. Ajirutei occupies a space that looks as though it was once a sports bar. Despite the cheerful red walls and various pieces of wine paraphernalia - wine crates, bottles, and posters from the movie "Sideways" - scattered throughout, the interior retains some of the character of its previous incarnation. The ghost of a dartboard lingers behind the decorative platter bearing a map of France on one wall, and one can easily imagine team-logo mugs in the nooks where wine bottles now stand.

Significantly more impressive than the decor is the selection of wines from around the world. Around ten are available by the glass (Y500-, with bottles starting at Y2500), and selections change daily. There's no list, but the peppy waitstaff, clad in burgundy polo shirts and green aprons, are happy to make recommendations based on your preferences. On a recent visit, we were presented with several interesting choices: a Gruner Veltliner from Austria, a Silvaner from Germany, and a Pinot Noir from Oregon. All were a refreshing departure from the standard offerings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

The food menu reveals more Gallic tendencies, featuring rustic dishes such as homemade pork rillets and pate de campagne in hefty portions. The bean cassoulet is generously laden with a chicken thigh and sausage, while the Caesar salad comes draped in thin slices of salt-cured ham. The mushrooms in garlic beg for a second basket of warm focaccia brushed with olive oil, to sop up the juices. Everything is consistently well prepared, if not exactly gourmet fare.

Popular among the after-work crowd, the restaurant fills up quickly on weekdays, so it's best to call ahead. Budget Y4000-5000 for food and drinks.
Cabotte: Shibuya
Well off the beaten track in Sakuragaokacho, this cozy little wine bar is a nice place to share a bottle with friends on a rainy evening. There's no wine list - the owner will choose something for you based on your preferences and budget. Wines by the glass are available from Y800, bottles from Y4200.

Food is limited to snacks and small bites: assorted charcuterie, marinated vegetables, potato and tuna salad. While dishes such as garlic-sauteed shrimp and grilled chicken wings (seasoned differently to pair with red or white wine) are surprisingly tasty, they emerge from the tiny kitchen with glacier-like speed.
Cona: Shibuya
It's hard to beat the prices at this casual wine bar in Shibuya. All of the 70+ varieties of wine are available for Y1900. Choose your own bottle from the small glass cellar, or ask for recommendations from the knowledgeable young staff.

Thin-crust pizzas come with a variety of toppings (garlic and chorizo, bacon and asparagus, prosciutto and soft-boiled egg) and all can be had for Y500. The space is small and it's standing room only, so try their sister shops Kuni or Voco if you want to sit. Drinks are half price during happy hour from 2pm - 6pm. There's no charge before 6pm, but after that it's Y300 per person. (Open from 4pm weekends.)
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