Tokyo and Yokohama Restaurant Guide


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Extreme beers are the speciaty at this cozy little beer bar - heavy on the hops, and generally higher in alcohol content than your average mainstream lager. Many of the beers are made by Thrash Zone itself, with names like "Speed Kills IPA" (7.8% ABV), although on our most recent visit we also saw offerings from serious US and Japanese craft breweries like Coronado, Lagunitas, Scuttlebutt and North Coast. Prices start at Y500 for a medium-sized glass.

The food menu is limited to frites (Y500), but these come with your choice of four sauces, such as Thrash Zone's original coriander mayonnaise. While you're sipping your beer you can enjoy an energetic soundtrack of thrash metal (hence the bar's name) played at a reasonable volume that doesn't impede conversation. The service here is friendly and the crowd is quite fluid, with many people stopping in for a quick drink and then moving on.
This LA-based Cali-Mex eatery specializes in fish tacos, but also serves a range of burritos, salads and bowls. The "wet burrito" (Y890-1050) is a pleasingly hefty regular burrito, which here comes with a very simple filling of mostly meat and shredded lettuce, topped with melted cheese and spicy red and green sauces.

For those who prefer lower carbs, Wahoo's salads come with cheese, guacamole, salsa, tortilla chips, and your choice of "protein" - fish, chicken, pork, beef or shrimp. Rice bowl options include Kahlua pig as well as the usual chicken, beef and fish.

The restaurant is located next to the HLNA skate park atop DiverCity, which supplies many of their customers. Take the elevators at the south end of the mall and follow the signs to the skate park.
This lively after-work drinking spot is called "Queen of Chickens" - and what more do you need to know? Well, if you must have details, they serve a lovely roast chicken, flavored with rosemary, garlic and various secret herbs (so we were told), for just Y1880. Wines start at Y2700 per bottle. Your Y680 (per person) table charge sounds hefty, but it entitles you to a bottomless serving of bagna calda, with refills of both seasonal vegetables and the warm anchovy-infused sauce, which doubles as a tasty dip for the roast potatoes that arrive alongside your chicken.

The only downside - Queen of Chickens' very attractive prices mean that reservations are a must, as both the ground-floor main shop and the second-floor "guest house" fill to capacity most weeknights. Budget around Y3000 for ample food and drink.
A relaxed neighborhood hangout spot, Miu serves an interesting original cocktail made from home-made limoncello and home-made ginger ale, as well as the usual wine, beer and snacks. The soundtrack features a lot of Enya, if you like that sort of thing.
Seating at this old-school izakaya may be a bit tight and the air smoky, but the grilled meats are quite tasty, the drinks are cheap and the hours are very, very late.
Modern, upscale bistro fare served in a casual setting is the draw at this neighborhood French spot. The owner-chef trained at La Regalade, the original Paris "neo-bistro," and Parisian bistronomic appreciation of top-quality, high-end ingredients is certainly reflected here. For example, our dinner menu offered Iberico as well as domestic roast pork, along with four different dishes featuring foie gras.

The wine list - not limited to French labels - is quite reasonably priced, with numerous choices in the Y3000-6000 range. Half a dozen cheeses are on offer to round off your meal, a decent selection for a place this small. The tiny dining room is cozy and intimate, with just thirteen seats (including a five-seat counter).

Budget around Y6000 at dinnertime, and bring cash. Generously portioned weekday lunches (served Tuesday-Friday) are Y1000 (Y1300 with coffee and dessert), and weekend prix-fixe lunches are available if you call ahead to make arrangements.
With a history dating back to the 1960s, Scandia Garden is a casual Danish cafe occupying an ancient-looking ground-floor dining room in front of Osanbashi Pier, with a more formal and much more expensive restaurant upstairs. The downstairs menu offers open-face sandwiches and casual but hearty main dishes like roast beef, veal cordon bleu and fried prawns. A main dish plus rice pilaf or bread plus coffee or tea is priced at Y1300 at lunchtime or just Y1400 at dinnertime, which starts at 4pm.

We enjoyed a selection of three mini-sandwiches - herring, cold meats and a mini-hamburger - served with cake as a lunchtime platter. Everything seemed very Danish in flavor, with decent bread, tasty baby-leaf greens and ripe tomato. If you're here for dinner, drink options include Carlsberg beer, Danish aquavit, and a wide range of time-warp cocktails with names like Moon River, Charlie Chaplin, and White Lady.

An eclectic mix of easy-listening music plays in the background - we quite enjoyed a steel-drum rendition of "La Vie en Rose." If you're after something fancier than simple cafe fare, the upstairs dining room serves full-course steak dinners, or an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord (Y6000 per person; minimum two persons). If you want to live it up like a Danish king at home you can get a mixed-herring platter and an almond cake to go (Y2800 each).
Formerly located in Kagurazaka, this small neighborhood bar serves a menu of African and African-inspired dishes like cous cous, peanut-chicken stew, and tasty boerewors sausage. Thrill seekers can sample sauteed camel, crocodile steaks and fried beef lung.

Drinks include cocktails, African beers, and a decent list of South African and north African wines starting in the range of Y3000 per bottle. Be sure to inspect the "Little Africa" diorama while you're here.
Run by the friendly folks at Tokyo Family Restaurant, Good Meals is most notable for their comfortable second-floor "stand" area, where you can pick out some nice imported craft beers from the refrigerators and either take them home or drink them here. (Don't worry, in spite of the name, there is some seating in addition to the standing bar area.)

The twenty or so beers on sale at any given time are clearly chosen by a beer connoisseur, with bottles you don't see every day such as Tiny Rebel Dirty Stop Out, a smoked oat stout from Wales, and Coronado Mermaid's Red Ale. Both US and European craft brewers are well represented, with stock from four or five different importers regularly available.

Most bottled beers are priced Y530-730 to go, with an extra Y300 charge if you want to drink here. There are also a few Japanese craft beers on draft, served in small glasses. You can accompany your beers with food from the third-floor restaurant (unless the kitchen is very busy) - mostly Middle Eastern fare such as couscous and mezze-style dips in appetizer-size portions. The bar also serves espresso beverages and home-made ice candies.

Up in the third-floor dining room you'll find an impressive menu of cocktails made from small-batch liquors and artisanal mixers, plus a handful of mid-range wines.
We were intrigued by the menu categories at this after-work izakaya - charcoal-grilled meats, charcoal-grilled small fish and charcoal-grilled big fish - all of them prepared over top-grade bincho charcoal. Heirloom breeds of pork, chicken and premium wagyu beef make up the bulk of the meat menu, and the ones we sampled were tender in texture and sufficiently fatty to bring out their full flavor after grilling.

Seeing the cedar ball hanging outside the shop we knew to expect a good selection of sake, and indeed the list of twenty or so labels is filled with reliable and well-known breweries like Tedorigawa and Dewazakura, although we didn't notice any especially unusual bottles or seasonal specials.

If you just want to grab a bite after work rather than spend the evening nibbling, Sanjuro offers several inexpensive teishoku sets built around their grilled specialties; there are also full-course prix-fixe menus if you want to splurge. Budget anywhere from Y2000-4000 at dinnertime, Y800-1000 at lunch.
Craft sake from Akita Prefecture is the specialty at this comfortable counter bar, which stands at the front of a chicken specialty restaurant called Honke Abeya. You can just drop by for a quick glass of sake or two, or you can order some skewers of yakitori or even a full chicken-based meal to accompany your drinks.

The drinks selection here is quite impressive, with limited-edition seasonal specials and "prototype" bottles from many of Akita's small craft sake breweries. More than three dozen varieties are generally available on any given day, mostly priced from Y580-880 per glass, although a few items cost a bit more. There's also a variety of kikizake tasting sets (including a seven-glass flight for Y1600) and all-you-can-drink deals.

The chicken here is an heirloom cross-breed called hinai-jidori, prepared as yakitori, oyakodon and - for the daring - several types of chicken sashimi. Budget around Y2000-3000 in the evening for some skewers and drinks. This shop is located in the second-floor Kitamachi Dining complex at the north end of the Yaesu side of Tokyo Station, above the Kitchen Street and Kurobei Yokocho dining complexes.
Located at the entrance to Andaz Hyatt Hotel, Bebu serves original burger variations such as Andale-Gringo (cheese, beans, avocado, jalapeno) and Bavarian (pork sausage patty, sauerkraut, curry sauce). Their kofta burger (a lamb burger served with tsatziki and hummus) is a particular standout, with perfectly grilled meat and nicely balanced flavors.

Bebu's decor is rather minimalist, and the soundtrack is loud, bouncy pop music from decades past. There's some outdoor terrace seating for when the weather permits.
This huge, garishly lit shop is a veritable supermarket of Hokkaido food and drink. The dairy section is especially well stocked, with a bewildering variety of cheeses, lots of butter, and something called "wild milk." The nearby drinks corner carries around forty types of sake and roughly the same amount of wine. They also stock the excellent North Island craft beer, with four types priced at Y525 per bottle.

Browsing the aisles, you'll run into numerous ramen variations, a surprisingly big assortment of powdered soups, jars of scallops in mayonnaise, pouches of soup curries, pickled melons, lots of dried fish, and of course Hokkaido potatoes in every size and shape.
Novel, fusion-style udon is the specialty here, but what first attracted our attention was the inviting little sake bar standing at the front of the shop. A couple dozen well-chosen craft sakes from around the country are served in taster-size 60ml or full 120ml portions, in your choice of standard sake cups or proper wine glasses (we recommend the latter).

The udon menu features intriguing choices such as udon carbonara and beef-tendon curry udon, with most dishes in the Y1000-1200 range. We enjoyed a very refined, Chinese-inspired tantanmen udon with a satisfyingly spicy sesame sauce, and a compelling Italian-style four-cheese udon that had us scooping up the very last of the sauce from our bowl.

A serving of udon here is filling enough to make a complete meal, but if you're in the mood for starters (or noodle alternatives), you'll find a good selection of charcoal-grilled meats, fish and vegetables that should go nicely with your sake. There are also original dishes like "caprese tempura" - mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and basil tempura-fried with a light, delicate coating. Budget around Y1500-3000 at dinnertime.
Shamo, a type of chicken that was originally bred in Thailand for cockfighting, is prepared here using the traditional "warayaki" cooking method, where meat and fish are quickly seared over burning straw at temperatures of 800-900C. The izakaya-style restaurant also serves warayaki-grilled katsuo (bonito), and plus a nice selection of craft sake from Aomori Prefecture.

If you're just here for a quick and inexpensive meal after shopping, the menu offers various donburi and teishoku options starting at around Y1200 and featuring grilled chicken or fish along with rice, miso soup and side dishes. Or you can treat the place as an izakaya, sampling the excellent grilled wings, sasami (chicken breast) grilled in ume paste, and crunchy tsukune (chicken meatballs) served with a raw shamo egg.

The fast grilling process leaves the center of the chicken meat tender and juicy, and imparts a nice grassy aroma. Crunchy chunks of raw cucumber in garlic dressing make a nice side dish. There are five varieties of Aomori's Mutsu Hassen sake served by the glass or ichigo-sized flask, to go with your food, along with the usual shochu and beer. Budget Y1200-3500 at dinnertime.
The five or six varieties of fresh-roasted coffee beans sold here start at around Y1890 per 250-gram bag, and you can taste samples before you buy. Each bean purchase also comes with a free cup of coffee. There's a tiny bench outside the shop, although most customers get their coffee to go.
There's a nice selection of some three dozen craft sake to explore at this stylish little bar, with an unusual fish and seafood-centered food menu to accompany your drinks. It's run by a Shizuoka-based purveyor of shiokara (fermented shellfish guts), and connoisseurs of this delicacy can choose from thirty different varieties, including unusual dishes like shiokara bruschetta. If you're not a fan, you can fall back on the reliable sashimi platter of the day, featuring three or five different fish depending on your appetite.

The menu also offers some interesting sushi items, such as fish marinated in yuzu kosho and an excellent grilled anago that goes well with the sake here. The setup is informal enough that you can just pop in for a round of drinks and a snack, or stay longer if you find more sake that you want to try.

The arched, high-ceilinged space under the railroad tracks is part of the JR-managed Maach Ecute complex, a repurposed former train station from the 1950s. Budget around Y2000-3000 for snacks and a few drinks.
This rather large, 110-seat Art Nouveau-style restaurant is a taproom for De Halve Maan, a 450-year-old brewery in the Belgian city of Bruges. They serve a good variety of beers from that brewery and elsewhere in Belgium - more than 100 varieties in all.

The food menu covers Belgian standards like frites and mussels, and the very meaty charcuterie platters are worth a try. Open until 4am Friday and Saturday nights.
This charming, traditionally appointed izakaya near Ichigaya station offers an enormous selection of craft sake, shochu, and Okinawan awamori. The sake list includes a dozen or so specials of the day (always a good sign), plus deep selections from a number of well-regarded breweries - for example there are twelve different labels from the excellent Fukui-ken brand Kokuryu.

The eclectic food menu covers a lot of ground too, with standard dishes (grilled meats on skewers, Okinawan pork stew) served alongside original creations such as their ambitious tofu lasagna and deep-fried basil-cheese rolls. The food quality is decent, but it doesn't overshadow the sake. Budget around Y3000-5000 for dinner with drinks.
Located under the JR railroad tracks, this very casual drinking spot serves great charcoal-grilled beef on skewers, including a variety of organ meats. Surrounded by similarly inexpensive and informal shops, it makes a nice stop on a bar-hopping tour of the neighborhood. Budget around Y2000 for food and drink.
Casual Hawaiian cuisine, tropical cocktails and pancakes are served at this open-air restaurant in Yokohama Bay Marina. The Sam Choy's platter (Y1130) is probably the most interesting menu choice, with tasty helpings of garlic shrimp, ahi poke and Spam musubi.
Serious coffee fans in the Toranomon area were happy to hear about the opening of this office-building branch of the cult-favorite Omotesando Koffee in Aoyama. The polished-wood decor is quite minimal, the better to focus attention on the laboratory-like coffee-brewing area.

Hot and cold espresso beverages and drip coffee are served to drink here or to go, with hand-dripped coffee served from 3-6pm. An exclusive Toranomon blend of beans is available at Y650 per 100-gram bag.
Fresh produce from Kochi Prefecture in Shikoku can be found in ample quantities at this well-stocked antenna shop, which also supplies local Kichijoji residents with regional specialty foods such as jars of tiny kibinago (silver-striped herring) fillets, and candied deep-fried fish bones. Wheat-gluten (fu) snacks come in flavors like ginger, yuzu and strawberry.

Out in front of the shop we found several varieties of peppers and radishes, tomatoes and carrots, zucchini, cucumbers, eggplant, yams, rucola, scallions, snap beans, ginger and lemons. Yuzu is another big import, with juices, jams, candies and many other products made from the popular citrus fruit.
Well-selected and reasonably priced craft beers and wines are complemented by simple Middle Eastern fare (tajines, dips, falafel) at this tiny drinking spot. Located next to a sister shop called Kujira Curry Bar and across from a Vietnamese BBQ stall, Whale is one of more than a dozen bars and mini-restaurants making up the Dai-ichi Ichiba restaurant arcade, a retro-style, indoor "food alley" just north of Koenji station.

Craft-beer drinkers can find Punk IPA from Scottish brewery Brew Dog on tap, along with several more of their beers in bottles and cans, plus some less commonly seen European and US microbrews. During a recent visit we discovered some excellent beers from Dutch craft brewery De Molen and Norwegian outfit Nogne. The wine list is also eclectic and budget-friendly, for example Sokol Blossor's "Evolution" white blend is Y4,000 per bottle.

Our otoshi turned out to be a good-sized portion of home-smoked bacon served with cumin bread, a great match for our first round of IPAs. Equally beer-friendly are the baba ganoush and other mezze-style dips, which come with tasty home-made pita bread, and the crunchy falafel balls, served with a spicy yogurt sauce.

Service is friendly and knowledgeable, and the atmosphere is very casual. Most bottles of wine are priced in the Y2800-5000 range, with some outliers. Budget around Y2500-3000 for a few rounds of high-quality drinks and snacks, or just drop in for a quick drink and otoshi before you explore the rest of this lively arcade. (Open from 2pm on weekends.)
Unlike regular Starbucks branches, this "Inspired by Starbucks" cafe serves wine and beer along with the usual coffee and dessert drinks, making it a popular evening gathering spot. The atmosphere is very relaxed, with comfortable seating, tasteful decor, and a few outdoor spots to sit when Tokyo weather permits.
Without a doubt one of Tokyo's best Mexican restaurants, the festively decorated Tepito offers a wide menu of regional dishes and Mexican standards prepared south-of-the-border style. Mexican wines start at Y1800 per carafe, or you can choose from over one hundred kinds of tequila, many of them available in tasting flights.

On a recent visit we enjoyed starters of surprisingly piquant stuffed rellenos peppers, along with crunchy quesidillas topped with dollops of fresh, very tasty guacamole. Our jaded palates were appeased by the novel flavors of our Yucatan-style pork and cactus salad, although the salad would have been even better without the unnecessary smoked salmon. We were also quite happy with our waiter's tequila recommendations, and we look forward to engaging in further research in this area. Budget around Y4000 for dinner with drinks.

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