Pleasure, imagination, use; Yusoshi is a hybrid of these three words and is a downtown hangout for the Oike set. Comme des Garcons patrons come here after racking up purchases in the CDG shop downstairs. And they come here to smoke Kool cigarettes. The set menu is a choice of three small dishes - chicken balls in tomato sauce, fried lotus root sandwich and battered white fish is the best combination - plus miso soup and rice for Y850.

The coconut parfait with dango, azuki beans, matcha and coconut ice cream is huge, and hugely popular. Desserts start from Y550; Japanese and Chinese teas from Y500. The large interior has a backlit moonscape covering one wall. As afternoon progresses into early evening, a bottle of wine at Y2730-3680 is a good investment. The staff will help navigate the Japanese-only menu. [ Restaurant data and map ]

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Au Temps Perdu has a grand location - Higashiyama to the east, Heian-jingu to the north and the Shirakawa River out front. But the food, although tasty, is in miniature.

What I recall as a robust pate sandwich set for Y1500 has been downsized to a boxed picnic lunch served in what looks like a takeout noodle carton from the States. In the lower half is a roast pork salad with cornichon and shallot dressing and two slices of pain de campagne. The top half is a bento a la francaise - two slices of duck liver pate, carrot salad, a slice of cheese, a slice of quiche and a slice of cake. Unfortunately the whole is less than the sum of its parts.

Au Temps Perdu does, however, have an extensive range of teas from La Melangee - a Mariage Freres rival at half the price. A pot of tea is included in the Y1500 set, and it is of generous proportion. As Au Temps Perdu is a salon de thé there is no coffee. But there is alcohol, some of which has a south-of-the-Pyrenees provenance; sherry, cava, wine by the glass, and beer by the Carlsberg bottle are all Y500. If you haven't reached a "hara-hachi-bunme" level of sufficiency by the end of your meal, the takeout pates and desserts will get you there. [ Restaurant data and map ]

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Takada Shinichiro augments his classical Osaka training with influences he acquired as a chef in New York and Australia. As such he serves traditional kaiseki with a cosmopolitan edge. Sliced mozzarella with tsukemono (pickles) in balsamic sauce; firefly squid and vinegared miso; scallops with jumping fish, wasabi and shiso sprouts all combine the sweet and savoury fundamentals of Japanese cuisine with sophistication.

The simple elegance of the food at Grotto is echoed in the design. Nishibori Shin, known for his work at Muji and Apple, has lent his understated hand to the interior. Diners and passersby exchange glances through the large plate-glass window that affords a broad view of the streetscape. As there is no a la carte menu, ordering at Grotto is uncomplicated, but if you would like details of your repast Mr. Takada can explain in Japanese and English. Take a few ideas home. [ Restaurant data and map ]

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The owner-chef of this rustic izakaya is also a hunter who bags much of the game served here. The menu includes unusual meats like wild boar (barbecued or stewed), bear stew, and sashimi of horsemeat and venison, along with novelties like bee larvae and grasshopper. Budget around Y4000-5500 per person with drinks. [ Restaurant data and map ]

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