Steak: US Certified Angus Tenderloin (285g; Y5800) - tender, flavorful, nicely prepared (red in the center, but beautifully charred on the outside, with a bit of black-pepper flavoring. It was spectacular by itself, but it came with four sauces on the side - green pepper, red-wine, mushroom and fresh horseradish. No vegetables. (There's also a 285g Angus sirloin at Y4800, New Zealand tenderloin, and several domestic-beef choices.)

Sides/starters: Decent roast mushrooms, "flash-fried" onion rings and spicy crab cakes (but with a somewhat bland sauce), and fantastic roast asparagus with tomato vinagrette.

Wines: You'll find plenty of impressive Australian and California choices at Y20,000 and up (reaching way up into the stratosphere). It your wine budget is under Y10,000 though, you'll be looking at a handful of bottles from Chile and South Africa. (We managed to find a drinkable Argentine syrah for Y5500 - one of the cheapest on the list.)

Ambience: Much nicer than average for a hotel dining room (it's in the Grand Hyatt), with a big open bar and wine cellar at one end and an open kitchen with wood-burning ovens stretched out across the back of the room. Slightly over-helpful service, and a hint of international-hotel anonymity.

Wine list: B+ (A in the over-Y20,000 category; B- under Y10,000)
Food: A (A+ for the steak itself)
Decor/ambience: A-

Steak: Grilled prime ribeye (300g; Y3900 - really a two-person size). The steak was nicely cooked, a bit red in the center and crisply charred at one end, but ultimately lacking in excitement - good but not great. The foie-gras-flavored sauce helped, but a good steak should stand on its own. It was especially disappointing since every other dish our table ordered was absolutely outstanding. (There's also a 200g size for Y2800)

Sides/starters: Far-above-average Caesar salad with lush anchovy flavors, bits of prosciutto and crisply toasted parmesan sheets. Eye-opening soft-shell crab in spring-roll-like wrappers, enlivened by bits of pickle and well-ripened avocado and served with contrasting hoisin and horseradish sauces.

Wines: A first-rate wine list and knowledgeable staff make it hard to go wrong in the wine department, and there are plenty of excellent choices under Y8000.

Ambience: A gorgeous room with double-height ceilings and attractive decor. Attentive, professional service. In short, it's everything a sophisticated international dining room should be.

Food: B+ (B for the steak, A/A+ for everything else)
Wine list: A+
Decor/ambience: A

Steak: Grilled (US) Beef Filet (180g; Y2400). A very satisfying steak - the meat was tender and quite flavorful, with the perfect amount of fat to give it some spark. The Pinot Noir sauce was restrained enough that it augmented the flavor of the meat without competing with it, and the accompanying Stilton mashed potatoes were subtly done and not overly sharp.

Sides/starters: Seductive Louisiana-style crab cakes with remoulade sauce, and a perky Sicilian tuna and white-bean salad with shaved fennel and some nice greens. (We're not sure how the tuna differs from the non-Sicilian version, but it did attract our attention.)

Wines: A serious list with lots of good California and Washington State reds, including several by the glass. The Trinchero cabernet sauvignon is a good value at Y5500, but there are tempting choices further down the list of cabernets, such as the well-priced Turnbull (Y10,000) and Silver Oak (Y12,000).

Ambience: The dining room is lively and spacious, with contemporary art on the walls and big brewing tanks off in one corner. Weather permitting, the terrace offers a pleasant waterfront view and open-air seating. The service is very professional, but also has a personal touch, something not too common in Tokyo.

Food: A
Wine list: A
Decor/ambience: A+