A neighborhood French spot with a cozy dining room and friendly service. The menu offers a good variety of regional French dishes, with prix-fixe dinners starting around Y4000. [feedback]

Shinmachidori Shijo-agaru Nishiki-kado. (on Nishiki-koji and Shinmachi-dori) Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Thursdays.

If you want French wine with your kaiseki, this is the place - most bottles are under Y6000, although they have a number of Bordeaux wines in the Y40,000 range for big spenders. Besides kaiseki and mini-kaiseki they also serve sushi and bento boxes; they even deliver within the area. [feedback]

Shinmachidori Bukkoji-sagaru, Iwatoyamacho 416. (2 blocks W, 2 1/2 blocks S of Karasuma-Shijo) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-9:30pm daily.

This converted Taisho-era storehouse is owned by an antiques dealer, and he's stocked the huge interior with lovely Asian-style furnishings. Several of the dining areas look out onto the courtyard garden, and there's even a small room out in the middle of the garden if you're lucky enough to snag a reservation. The food is good Japanese-style Chinese fare, and the rather filling Y4800 prix-fixe menu is a nice choice. [feedback]

Nishikikojidori Muromachi-Nishi-iru, Tenjinyamacho 283-2. (on N side of Nishiki-koji, just W of Muromachi) Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily.

Another French bistro-cafe arrives in Kyoto: this one is a branch of the excellent Tokyo-based chain, known for their authentic French style and well-prepared food. The Y1000 lunches are a good deal, and there's a full dinner menu from 6pm. [feedback]

Karasuma-dori Shijo-sagaru, Suiginyacho 620 Cocon Karasuma 1F. (on W side of Karasuma-dori, just S of Shijo) Open 10am-11pm daily.

Run by the Actus furniture store, this very stylish cafe serves everything from dessert and coffee to full Tuscan dinners, with dishes like stewed rabbit. Wines range from Y2000 to Y50,000, with the median around Y3500; it's also served by the glass or carafe. Open till 1am weekends. [feedback]

Karasuma-dori Shijo-sagaru, Suiginyacho 620 Cocon Karasuma 2F. (on W side of Karasuma-dori, just S of Shijo) Open 11am-midnight daily.

British beers, darts and foosball in this national chain of pubs; no English menu though. [feedback]

Karasuma-dori Shijo-sagaru, Suiginyacho 620 Cocon Karasuma B1F. (on W side of Karasuma-dori, just S of Shijo) Open noon-11:45pm (LO) daily.

Szechuan-style noodles and other simple dishes, with lunches from around Y880. [feedback]

Shijodori Karasuma-higashi-iru, Kyoto Mitsui Bldg B1F. (on Shijo and Karasuma) Open 11:30am-11pm daily.

This prefab-style izakaya-cafe offers a lot of healthy-looking dishes (vegetable chips, sesame tofu) along with more ordinary izakaya fare (raw horsemeat, garlic fried potatoes). Drinks include shochu and unusual soft drinks like honey and black vinegar soda. [feedback]

Karasuma-dori Shijo-sagaru, Suiginyacho 620 Cocon Karasuma B1F. (on W side of Karasuma-dori, just S of Shijo) Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.

A branch of a popular Kobe Cantonese restaurant, Old HK is known for their impressive dim sum lunches (Y3400 for all you can eat, with a 90-minute limit) - they even have dumpling trolleys making the rounds of the dining room. [feedback]

Karasuma-dori Shijo-sagaru, Suiginyacho 620 Cocon Karasuma 1F. (on W side of Karasuma-dori, just S of Shijo) Open 11:30am-3, 5-9pm (LO) daily.

Kyoto-style obanzai-ryori, including original dishes like lotus-root hamburgers, and grilled shrimp and scallops with wasabi mayonnaise. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime. [feedback]

Shijodori Karasuma-higashi-iru, Kyoto Mitsui Bldg B1F. (on Shijo and Karasuma) Open 11am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily.

The excellent seasonal Japanese fare here is made from fresh market ingredients and served on lovely plates and bowls. Both table and zaseki seats look out onto the pretty courtyard. Prix-fixe meals only; lunches from Y5000, dinners from Y10,000. [feedback]

Hitosuji-sagaru Karasuma, Bukkoji Higashi-iru. (from Karasuma-Shijo crossing walk 2 blocks S, one small block E, 1/2 block S down a tiny alley) Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-7:30pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.

Daimaru's food floor is huge, with a good selection of prepared foods from famous restaurants as well as imported items. [feedback]

Shijo Takakura 79. (Shijo just east of Karasuma-dori) Open 10am-8pm daily.

Indonesian cuisine in an ambitiously exotic dining room that's been decorated to within an inch of its life. The seven-item "Garuda Set" (Y3500) covers all the most popular items like nasi goreng and curries. [feedback]

Yanagi-banba-dori Shijo-agaru. (on Yanagi-banba-dori just north of Shijo ) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-9:30pm. Closed Mondays.

Kaiseki doesn't have to be outrageously priced, and Meigetsuan is a good place to get your feet wet without spending a fortune. The newly constructed interior is plain and simple - a tiny counter for 6 people on the ground floor, regular tables on the second floor and a pretty tatami room on the third floor. The mini-kaiseki menu is Y3700, with regular kaiseki dinners from Y6500; take-out bento boxes are also available. [feedback]

Yanagi-banba-dori Shijo-agaru. (on Yanagi-banba-dori just north of Shijo ) Open 11am-9pm daily.

Enoteca offers a good selection of French and other wines at decent prices. There's a tiny tasting corner in the back of the shop where you can sample of glass of whatever they have open that day, along with simple snacks like their Y1000 cheese plate. [feedback]

Tachiurihigashicho 28, Sakizo Plaza 2F. (Shijo between Fuyamachi-dori and Tominokoji-dori) Open 11am-8pm daily.

This 200-year-old ryokan is now known mainly as a restaurant, with excellent seafood-centric kaiseki service. Small private tatami rooms look out onto tiny courtyards or miniature gardens, and there's a quaint little "Western" dining room with old-fashioned furnishings. Lunches start at Y8000, and dinners run from Y16,000; there's even traditional breakfast service if you're in the neighborhood early (Y4500). [feedback]

Shijo-agaru Gokomachi 407. (on Gokomachi north of Shijo) Open 7:30-9am, noon-1, 5:30-7:30pm. Closed Wednesdays.

First-rate udon noodles is the specialty at this charming old shop, along with tempura, sushi and various seasonal dishes. They also have a branch in SoHo in New York. [feedback]

Gokomachi-dori Shijo-agaru Higashi-gawa. (on Gokomachi just north of Shijo, on the right) Open 11:30am-10pm. Closed Thursdays.

A modern Vietnamese cafe with a pleasant interior of grey concrete walls, dark-stained wood furniture and big glass windows. In the evenings, full-course "French-Vietnamese" dinners start at Y2625. [feedback]

Gokomachi Shijo-agaru Nishigawa, Deco III 1F. (on Gokomachi-dori just north of Shijo) Open 11am-10:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

Inexpensive and tasty Nepalese curries and Indian tandoori dishes are the specialties at this charming little shop. The dining room has been expanded, but unfortunately it can get smoky. [feedback]

Gokomachi north of Shijo. (just south of Nishiki Market) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10pm. Closed Mondays.

Kyoto's long-established Indian-food pioneer still turns out reliable curries in a smartly decorated dining room. Full-course dinners start at Y3000, although a la carte choices can be more economical. [feedback]

Teramachi-dori Shijio-agaru, Kikusui Building 3F. (NE corner of Teramachi and Shijo) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-9pm. Closed 3rd Wed.

This inexpensive izakaya serves up popular Southeast Asian-style favorites (everything from tom yum kung soup to Vietnamese spring rolls) along with Asian beers and tropical cocktails. [feedback]

Teramachi-dori Shijio-agaru, Kikusui Building 5F. (NE corner of Teramachi and Shijo) Open 5-11:30pm daily.

Although it's just steps away from the busy Shijo-Kawaramachi intersection, Tagoto is hidden away behind a narrow entrance and a long, lantern-lit passageway. The food menu includes budget-friendly mini-kaiseki dinners (Y3000) and all-you-can-eat lunch specials (also Y3000) as well as more standard kaiseki and bento-box choices. [feedback]

Shijo-dori Kawaramachi Nishi-iru. (entrance alley is on Shijo, just west of Kawaramachi) Open 11:30am-3, 4:30-9pm daily.

This department-store nook specializes in shoronpo - authentic Taipei-style dumplings injected with a hot broth that fills your mouth with delicious flavors as it simultaneously scalds your tongue. [feedback]

Takashimaya 3F. Open 10:30am-8pm. Closed Tuesdays.

The Hong Kong-based tea shop offers a huge selection of Chinese desserts, plus dim sum and a few a la carte dishes. Desserts are also ready to take out. [feedback]

Takashimaya 7F. Open 10am-9:20pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.

Good, moderately priced Kansai-style sushi - there's a small counter on the ground level but plenty of additional table seating upstairs. Take-away is also available. [feedback]

Kawaramachidori Shijo-agaru. (on W side of Kawaramachi, just N of Shijo, between OPA and Sony Plaza) Open 9:30am-9pm (LO) daily.

Ippudo's Hakata-style ramen is known for its rich pork-based broth and thin, slightly chewy noodles. There are graters and garlic cloves on the counter if you're so inclined. [feedback]

Nishikikoji Higashinotoin-higashi-iru, Bantoyacho 653-1 Nishiki Bldg 1F. (on Nishiki-koji-dori one block east of Karasuma-dori) Open 11am-2am daily.

Fresh Kyoto yuba (tofu skin) is the focal point of the menu here, with unusual dishes like yuba and roast duck carpaccio and yuba dumpling pizza. The dining room is attractively appointed in Kyoto-modern style, with shoji screens, bamboo blinds, polished blond-wood horikotatsu tables and dark-wood platforms. There's a big a la carte menu as well as set menus - budget around Y3500 at dinnertime. [feedback]

Nishikikoji Higashinotoin-higashi-iru, Libertus Nishikikoji 3F. (on Nishiki-koji-dori east of Karasuma-dori, west of the north entrance of Daimaru) Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-11pm. Closed second Wednesday.

An amusing tropical-themed cafe - the well-stocked bar is topped with a thatched roof, and the friendly staff are decked out in Hawaiian shirts. The evening menu has a number of Hawaiian-style dishes (ahi poke, seafood "luau platters") and Hawaiian microbrew beers, with desserts and lighter fare in the afternoons. There's some outdoor terrace seating. [feedback]

Nishikikoji Higashinotoin-higashi-iru, Libertus Nishikikoji 2F. (on Nishiki-koji-dori east of Karasuma-dori, west of the north entrance of Daimaru) Open 11:30am-11pm. Closed Mondays.

Decent-quality sushi presented in a convenient conveyor-belt format - prices range from Y120 to Y600 per dish. [feedback]

Nishikikoji Takakura-Nishi Minamigawa. (on Nishiki-koji-dori between Daimaru and the entrance to the market) Open 11am-10pm daily.

Authentic Italian fare with a Japanese sensibility; budget Y8,000 to Y10,000 for dinner. Lunch starts at Y1600. [feedback]

Takoyakushi Takakura Higashi-iru, Kariganecho 361. (on Takoyakushi-dori and Takakura-dori, 2 blocks NE of Shijo Karasuma intersection) Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm. Closed Wednesdays.

Good udon (including curry udon variations), served at lunchtime only. They also do a brisk take-away business. [feedback]

Nishiki-koji Sakaimachi-nishi-iru. (on the SW corner of Nishiki and Sakaimachi) Open 11am-4:30pm (LO) daily.

This quaint little shop inside Nishiki Market serves traditional Japanese sweets with green tea, and they also prepare some rather novel variations on grilled mochi - peanut butter, mentaiko and cheese among them. [feedback]

Nishiki-koji-dori, Yanaginobanba-higashi-iru. (along Nishiki Market street, south side) Open 11am-5:30pm daily.

Traditional French cuisine and moderately priced wines (from Y3000/bottle). [feedback]

Nishiki-koji Sakaimachi-higashi-iru. (along Nishiki Market street, between Sakaimachi-dori and Yanaginobanba-dori, south side) Open 11am-3:30, 5-10pm. Closed Mondays.

On the ground floor is a top-class produce shop with picture-perfect Kyoto vegetables, while upstairs they've set aside a tiny room for lunch. There's only one choice - a prix-fixe menu of small dishes highlighting the best of the vegetable world, priced at Y2100. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Nishikikoji Yanagibanba-nishi-iru. (from Karasuma-Shijo crossing walk 4 streets east to Yanagi-no-banba-dori, turn left and go one block north to the market arcade, turn left again and Yaoya no Nikai is on the left) Open 11am until they run out daily.

Inexpensive lunches at this very informal modern French bistro just off Nishiki Market. [feedback]

Yanagibanba Nishiki Kita-e. (on Yanagi-banba-dori just N of Nishiki Market) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.

This modest, long-established shop serves Nishiki market shoppers with traditional Kyoto-style sushi including saba-zushi (mackerel pressed onto a bed of rice and sliced into rectangular slabs). [feedback]

Nishiki-koji-dori Fuyamachi-nishi-iru, Higashi-Uoyacho 197. (3rd block from the eastern end of Nishiki Market street, on the south side) Open 9am-6:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

A fantastic selection of chef's knives and cleavers, cooking pans, bamboo steamers, and more esoteric cookingware can be found at this 400-year-old retail shop. [feedback]

Nishiki-koji-dori Gokomachi-nishi-iru. (along Nishiki Market street, north side) Open 9am-5:30pm daily.

Hundreds of specialized food shops line this kilometer-long covered market street running through the heart of central Kyoto. See article. [feedback]

(one block N of Sanjo, running W from Teramachi)

Good-quality tempura at modest prices in a convenient department-store setting. [feedback]

Shijo-dori Kawaramachi-higashi-iru, Hankyu 8F. Open 11am-9pm daily.

Minokichi has been serving Kyoto kaiseki for more than 280 years, and this relatively new department-store branch offers a variety of Kyoto-style set meals at moderate prices (mostly in the Y2000-4000 range). [feedback]

Shijo-dori Kawaramachi-higashi-iru, Hankyu 8F. Open 11am-10pm daily.

Sort of a cross between a dining bar and an izakaya, Unoya is known for their fancy decor, extensive cocktail list, and offbeat snacks to go with your drinks. Stuff like crabmeat and scallop spring rolls wrapped in tofu skin; and avocado and spicy cod roe sushi rolls. Set meals start at Y2500, or you can go a la carte. [feedback]

Kiyamachi-shijo-agaru, Nabeyacho 223. (E side of Kiyamachi, 4 buildings N of Shijo) Open 5-11pm (to 3am weekends). Open every day.

This charmingly old-fashioned shop serves state-of-the-art Western dishes circa 1922, when they first opened their doors - pork chops, grilled chicken, shrimp croquettes, potato salad and the like. And wait'll you see their wine list! [feedback]

Kiyamachi-dori Shijo-agaru, Nabeyacho 221-25. (from Shijo walk 150 m (2 1/2 blocks) N on Kiyamachi; when you see a big red lantern turn R into a very narrow alley, then L, then L again) Open 5-10pm (LO). Closed Thursdays.

This odd little drinking spot - it looks more like an old-style kissaten than a bar - has been here for nearly 50 years, serving allegedly "Incan style" curries and stews. Budget around Y3000 for food. [feedback]

Kiyamachi Shijo-sagaru. (Kiyamachi just S of Shijo) Open noon-2, 5-9pm (LO). Closed Mondays.

Third-generation kaiseki chef Yoshihiro Murata takes a fresh approach to the cuisine, drawing on French and other European influences and using some non-traditional ingredients (like Japanese pears soaked in pear brandy). This is a modern, downtown branch of the long-established family shop. Prix-fixe lunch starts at Y4000, dinner from Y10,000. [feedback]

Kiyamachi Shijo-sagaru. (on E side of Kiyamachi, second building S of Shijo) Open noon-1:30, 5-8:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

Located in the midst of some rather dubious-looking drinking establishments is this very friendly, long-established specialist in chanko-nabe, the stuff that gives sumo wrestlers their heft. During the warmer months there's a pleasant terrace looking out over the river. The full-course chanko dinner is Y5000, and kaiseki service starts at Y6000; they also offer a selection of premium sakes from around Y800. [feedback]

Nishi-ishigaki Shijo-sagaru, Saitocho 140-6. (along the waterfront just S of Shijo) Open 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.

This Taisho-period Japanese inn is a great place for a party, a date or a late-night drink (bar open till 2am), and the terrace overlooking the river is an especially attractive spot. The interior is done up in an Asian-flavored motif, and the food - which is less of a draw than the setting - is mostly Asian fusion with some Southeast Asian standards. Budget around Y5000 for dinner with drinks, or a bit more for their buffet dinner and open bar party menus (starting at around Y7000). [feedback]

Kiyamachi-dori Matsubara-agaru. (6 min. S of Kawaramachi sta. on Kiyamachi-dori) Open 6-10pm (LO) daily.