A pioneer of Osaka's thriving spice curry scene, Kyuyamutei produces complex original curries with a diverse mix of ingredients, flavors, textures and colors. Recipes change every month, and the three-curry plate ("zengake") is recommended to maximize your curry experience. A tiny cruet of broth is provided to pour over your rice midway through the meal to further perk up the flavors.

A recent, color-coordinated trio of curries was made up of "green" chicken keema with corn and lightly pickled brussels sprouts; "white" pork keema with cashew nuts and almonds, topped with onion and lemon sauce, and a red-wine beef-pork keema with rosemary and sour cream. All were quite delectable, both on their own and mixed together. Lots of vegetables went into the curries, as did copious amounts of spices

Rice comes in your choice of turmeric (the shop's recommendation), jasmine or genmai. Plain and seasonal fruit lassis are a good drink choice; they're quite thick, and we found that adding a bit of water made them easier to drink.

The shop is quite popular, and we encountered a line at 1:30pm on a weekday, though it moved quickly and we were able to order while still in line. (Menus are in Japanese only, by the way.) Seating is at small tables and at the counter; note that some of the counter seating can be tight.