Marumo serves very good pizzas, with tasty, chewy crusts and innovative toppings that incorporate Japanese seasonings. The chef also makes the most of his custom-built pizza oven, using it to prepare first-rate roast cauliflower, roast potatoes and other side dishes.

One interesting and successful creation here is the richly flavored "Japanese Umami" pizza, with pecorino, mozzarella, mackerel and konbu flakes over a shiitake mushroom cream base. Red Hot Chili (tomato, mozzarella, nduja sausage, spicy salami, paprika) is another inspired original, with shiso leaves adding a distinctive touch.

Reservations are pretty much always necessary, and seats at the (beautiful marble) counter are recommended, as the tables here are tightly packed.