First-class pizzas are the big draw at this highly rated Italian restaurant, along with an eye-popping selection of more than 500 wines. At lunchtime you can get a whole pizza, salad and coffee starting at around Y2,000, which is very good cost performance for this level of quality. There are around two dozen varieties to choose from, and most pizzas are available for take-out.

Pizzas are easily foldable and slightly chewy, getting crisper at the edges where there is some char. Our Macellaio ("Butcher") pizza was loaded with tasty bits of meat (salami, ham, nduja sausage) and a good layer of flavorful mozzarella. The salad was well dressed, with slices of salami and mortadella livening things up. A whole pizza plus salad is quite filling, but if you have a good appetite there are also prix-fixe lunches that come with additional appetizers and dessert.

The large dining room sports a stylish retro-1960s decor, with cream-colored walls and tablecloths, comfortable chairs and artwork on the walls. It's quite lively during busy lunch hours, but the staff handles the crowds efficiently. In the evenings a sommelier can help you navigate the Italian-centered wine list. Most bottles are priced in the Y5,000-12,000 range, but can go much higher if you're in the mood for something special.