Lien serves excellent modern French cuisine with a flair. They also offer a good selection of affordable wines from around the world (not just France), with eleven wines poured by the glass. Lunch is an especially good deal, with a choice of main dish (from five daily offerings) plus a buffet of appetizers.

Pretty, colorful terrines are a fun way to start off a meal and an opportunity for chefs to show off their creativity. The terrine page of Lien's menu offers a surprisingly big selection, and every one we've tried has been bold and exciting. Our favorite is the Bouillabaisse Terrine with Saffron, with morsels of fish and seafood embedded in an intensely flavored bouillabaisse jelly.

The Salmon Vegetable Terrine is lighter but still rich, livened up by a fresh-tasting horseradish sauce. Pork Tongue and Spinach Pate is satisfyingly meaty, and the Oyster and Scallop Terrine, served warm, is full of deep flavors that will perk up the appetite.

Main dishes range from roast Hokkaido venison and roast pork shoulder to herb-crusted lamb chops, wagyu beef cheeks braised in red wine, and duck frikadelle (meatballs). Lien's duck confit is skillfully prepared, with crackling crisp skin and succulent meat that falls off the bone.

Unusual for a Tokyo French restaurant, Lien's wine list covers the globe, with bottles from Italy, Australia, New Zealand, California and South Africa as well as France. Most wines are priced at either Y5,500 or Y6,000 per bottle, with wine by the glass starting at just Y600. Budget around Y5,000-6,000 for dinner with drinks, or Y1,500 at lunchtime.