It's always a pleasure when a famous signature dish lives up to its reputation, and "Eggs Rothko" is worthy of the acclaim. A creation of chef George Weld that was first served at his Brooklyn restaurant Egg, it's part of the all-day breakfast menu at Egg's Tokyo outlet, along with omelets, French toast and pancakes.
Eggs Rothko is simple in concept - a thick slice of well-buttered, flaky brioche is browned in a skillet, then injected with a raw egg, topped with a layer of grated cheddar and run quickly under a broiler. The result is a very satisfying combination of fresh savory flavors, complemented here by grilled tomatoes, lightly sauteed kale and any optional side items of your choice. We chose bacon, which is done to crispy perfection.
Other tempting breakfast dishes include a White Cheddar Omelet, Two Eggs Any Style (with hash browns and toast), and numerous French toast and pancakes variations, both sweet and savory. If you're in the mood for fried chicken they do a decent version here with a thick, crisp coating and juicy meat, although it's probably more interesting paired with their kale caesar salad or other side items rather than on its own.
The "drink set" is worth noting if you like to linger over a beverage or two after eating. A single price gets you unlimited servings of twelve different teas and tisanes, as well as drip coffee and cold-brew iced coffee. Other drinks options include fruit juices, Tokyo Craft pale ale, and wines by the glass (from Y350) or bottle (eight bottles, from Y2,800).
The dining room is casual and comfortable, with outdoor seating when the weather is nice. Picture books and crayons on every table are provided to help entertain any younger children in your group. The restaurant is located in one of the less hectic corners of Ikebukuro, part of a new multi-building office-movie theater complex.
by Robb Satterwhite