As you enter Akka Thai Cafe and Eatery, the chatter of Thai radio DJs, the modern decor (illuminated by old-fashioned filament light bulbs) and the spicy aroma of fried chilies and garlic might have you believe you've stepped into a chic little place in Bangkok. But you're not in Sukhumvit, you're just three minutes from Hatchobori Crossing.

Run by an extremely hard-working and passionate duo from Bangkok, it may be small (there's only room for around 15 people) but the flavors are big and punchy. Since its opening in October 2023 it's attracted a faithful clientele of local office workers and hungry tourists.

The menu is evolving as the adventurous chef adds new dishes almost every week. Even familiar dishes come with a welcome twist. Our favorite has to be the Tom Yum Kun Noodles. This is no watery consomme but a thick, rich soup, deep red in color with a shrimpy flavor and chili heat. It's filled with pho-like rice noodles, and an order comes in a big bowl perfect for sharing.

The pork belly with nam pla sauce is another winner. A perfectly cooked fatty pork cutlet arrives with a generous heap of coriander leaves and a saucer of fishy nam pla. The Larb Gai is a generous mound of ground chicken mixed with onions, chilies and fresh mint, with cabbage leaves instead of lettuce for the wrap. You know the chef is good when there's hardly any oil left on the plate after the dish is finished. The same goes for the tasty shrimp stir-fried rice.

The last time we asked for a recommendation the chef whipped up a Thai variant on stir-fried water spinach, a familiar Chinese dish. Flavored with nam pla, garlic and hot red chilies, this one demands a side of jasmine rice to mop up the gravy. He also surprised us with a shrimp and glass-noodle concoction. Big, plump, tender shrimp perched on top of a heap of glass noodles with an edible lemongrass (none of that old woody herb here) and fresh coriander sauce.

Budget about Y1,100 yen for lunch, and Y3,000-4,000 for dinner with drinks.