While the main Ginza branch of this legendary Michelin-starred yakitoriya demands a good portion of an evening to fully appreciate, this more casual outlet is well suited to bar-hopping. Grab a seat and enjoy a round of top-quality charcoal-grilled skewers and a glass of wine, then move on to your next stop on a culinary tour of the burgeoning Toronomon Hills restaurant scene.
Everything we've tried here has been outstanding - succulent sasami (breast meat) with wasabi; intensely flavorful liver; pleasantly chewy kawa (skin). The wings were especially good, with perfectly charred, crisp skin and quite a bit of meat. The lightly pickled cucumbers made us wish we could find vegetables of this quality at our local supermarket.
You'll find a bigger wine list than is typical of yakitoriya, ranging from Austrian Gruner Veltliner to Australian Shiraz. Seven wines are served by the glass (starting at Y1,000) with several more by the bottle. The sake selection is small but well chosen, and the funky Tengumai Yamahai (Ishikawa-ken) was a great match for the chicken.
There is comfortable table seating as well as a counter where you can watch the grilling team in action. English menus are available, but the Japanese menu is a bit more informative if you also read Japanese. Most skewers are priced at Y400-450 each, and there's a minimum order of four skewers per person if you're ordering a la carte. If you want to reserve, however, you'll need to choose one of the two prix-fixe menus, priced at Y5,000 and Y6,800.
by Robb Satterwhite