In spite of the Shinjuku business-district address, this branch of the Rome-based eatery has the feel of a friendly (but sophisticated) neighborhood Italian spot, where you can pop in for a charcuterie board and a glass of wine, a simple pizza, or a full-course spread. Cheese connoisseurs can indulge in one of several mozzarella tasting plates, and partying groups can take advantage of Obica's open-bar plans.

The generously sized Roman-style pizzas here are prepared with imported Italian wheat flour and sourdough, using a 48-hour slow-rising process. They're topped with buffalo mozzarella and your choice of other ingredients such as truffles, mushroom paste, prosciutto, and Sardinian mullet roe. The very popular 7 Formaggi Pizza features three kinds of mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Taleggio, Grana Padano, pecorino, dried figs and walnuts.

Salads are also ample in volume and well assembled; we particularly enjoyed a baby-leaf salad with smoked wild salmon, orange slices, caper berries and cherry tomatoes. You can dress your own salad with a choice of olive oils, balsamic vinegar and a bit of sea salt.

Main dish options include breaded veal cutlet, sliced ribeye steak, roast swordfish, and wagyu burger with burrata and anchovy butter. We noticed that portion sizes here tend to be on the large size, but the staff are happy to wrap up any leftovers for you to take home.

Most wines are priced at Y4,500-8,000 per bottle, and carafes of house wines (Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo) are Y2,800. Budget around Y4,000-7,000 for dinner with drinks. Lunches come with a main dish, one or two side dishes and cold-pressed juice and start at Y1,850.