Spicy grilled chicken wings are the specialty of the house and definitely a must-try at this subterranean mini-izakaya. They're only seventy yen per piece so you can order a bunch - the menu helpfully says that the price applies to orders of anywhere between five and 150 wings, although 150 might be too many for one sitting. They are habit forming though, so five or ten per person is not unreasonable.

In addition to wings, the regular menu offers twenty different grilled skewers of chicken, pork and vegetables, with favorites like bonjiri (chicken tail), tsukune (chicken meatballs), buta-toro (pork cheek meat), shiitake mushrooms and cherry tomatoes. The pork rib meat (bara) coated in a miso-heavy tare sauce is particularly delectable. Most skewers are Y150-180 each.

The sake selection is relatively small, but it usually includes some interesting limited-edition seasonal specials. The shop is part of the attractive (and not overly crowded) yokocho area in the sub-sub-basement of Halc Department Store, with direct access to the underground maze adjoining Shinjuku Station. Even though it's small in size it has a lively atmosphere, helped along by the proximity of diverse drinking spots of similar character.

Budget around Y2,000-2,500 for ample food and drink at dinnertime, and Y800-900 for lunch, which is served until 2pm.