Stone-kiln roast chicken is the pride of the kitchen at Ruisuke, and it's definitely worth a try if you're in the area. Heirloom-breed Daisen-dori chicken from Tottori Prefecture is the bird of choice, and it's marinated for eleven hours before roasting, resulting in crisp skin and juicy, flavorful meat. It comes in a fairly hefty portion, big enough for two and excellent value at just Y1,280.

Charcoal-grilled dishes are another specialty, and the roster includes lamb, foie gras, duck, truffle-chicken tsukune and organ meats with cilantro. The well-seasoned lamb chops are particularly appetizing, with just a hint of charring from the grill.

Rounding out the menu are European-inspired starters and side dishes like mushroom-gizzard ajillo, horsemeat carpaccio, duck-bacon potato salad, and seasonal-vegetable bagna cauda. If you hate making decisions you can try your luck with the assorted side-dish platter.

The restaurant is officially called Wine no Ruisuke, and they live up to that name with a list of more than fifty wines by the bottle, many of them under Y4,000, although there are only a few wines by the glass. The atmosphere is quite lively, mostly because the kitchen staff shout out greetings to each new arrival. Budget around Y3,000 for ample food and drink at dinnertime.