Yuu serves elegant kappo-ryori, the more informal version of kaiseki service, offering both prix-fixe meals (from Y5,500) and a la carte. Gorgeous seasonal vegetables, sourced from small farms in Kagawa Prefecture, play a prominent part in the cuisine, and overall the ingredients used here - from the snow crab and well-marbled wagyu down to the artisanal salts - are all exemplary.

Even if you order a la carte, your meal will start off with a tiny cup of soup and an artfully arranged tray of four seasonal appetizers. All the dishes we've tried here have been light and delicate, even deep-fried items like the crabmeat croquettes, which are a specialty of the house. The grilled "olive beef" - wagyu beef from Kagawa Prefecture in Shikoku that's been raised on olives - was richly flavored but not overwhelming, perhaps due to the restrained portion size..

The sake list is unusual in that all 18 selections are from the same brewery, Oroku in Shimane-ken; the chef really likes that brewery, so that's what he serves. The wine list is far more extensive, and is made up exclusively of domestic Japanese wines. Budget around Y7,000-10,000 for dinner with drinks. Reservations are recommended.