California-style Thai cuisine is the intriguing specialty at Gin Khao, and we found it a nice change of pace from the Bangkok street-stall fare that's more usual for Tokyo. In addition to tom yum kung and curries, they offer entertaining cross-cultural dishes like Thai-style sriracha-glazed Buffalo chicken wings and spring rolls with a good helping of ripe avocado.

The wings are a standout, with very crisp, crunchy skin and juicy meat in a peppery dressing. Also recommended is the grilled rib steak with dried chili, a decent-sized platter of tender steak - big enough to share - served with a spicy sauce that helps bring out the flavor of the meat without being too overpowering.

Spicy ground pork with lemongrass and assorted herbs also hits the spot, with a good dose of fiery spices, while the deep-fried soft-shell crab is pleasingly heavy on the garlic sauce.

The lunchtime menu is much more typical, with decent versions of Thai standards like green curry, pad thai and gapao rice. The dining room is spacious and airy, with some semi-outdoor terrace seating in the building's atrium. Budget around Y3,500 for dinner and drinks, while lunches start at Y1,100.