Fragrant smoke from Toritake's charcoal grill has been wafting out onto Shibuya's back streets since the early 1960s, drawing in generation after generation of yakitori fans. The atmosphere is very old-school izakaya, with compact seating arrangements and Showa-era decor. The non-smoking basement (with tatami seating) is perhaps the one concession to modern times.

Drink options are pretty basic too - beer, shochu cocktails and a few major-brand sakes. It's all about the grilled chicken here, which is very good, if a tad more expensive than you might expect from the setting. Budget around Y4000-5000 for dinner and drinks.