Super-fresh seafood from the Noto Peninsula, north of Kanazawa, is the specialty at Notomi. To go with the seafood, there's a decent selection of a dozen or so well-known sake from around the country, plus three or four special labels from Ishikawa Prefecture. Everything from the down-home decor to the no-frills menu has the feel of a seaside izakaya that's been transported to the big city.

The focus of the kitchen is on the quality and freshness of the fish rather than fancy cooking techniques or creative recipes. Sashimi platters of three, five or seven types of seafood are a reliable starter, and tempura-fried oysters are worth a try when in season. Many individual fish and shellfish items are ready to grill on a gas burner at your table.

There are also plenty of nabe stews, braised nikomi items, fried dishes and even sushi, with lots of daily specials. Budget around Y4000-5000 for food and drink.