There are lines to get into Motomura day and night, and it's easy to understand why once you've tasted their very popular gyukatsu (deep-fried beef cutlet). Served rare in the middle with a thin, crunchy layer of breading around it, the lightly marbled beef is tender and very flavorful. Season it to taste with rock salt, pepper, onion sauce, soy sauce and wasabi; you can even grill it for a minute on the small hibachi at your table or counter.

A single portion of beef, with a set meal of rice, soup, potato salad, cabbage and pickles, is Y1400; add an extra Y900 for a double-sized portion of beef, and Y100 for a side dish of grated yam for dipping. No reservations or credit cards; English-language menus are available, along with rather detailed instructions on how to eat your gyukatsu.