Surrounded by garish electronics shops and maid cafes, the curtained entrance to this old-school izakaya feels like a portal to another era. It's far from fancy inside, just an after-work drinking spot with a big wrap-around counter and ample table seating, with a TV set on in the background and cigarette smoke wafting from various tables.

The kitchen turns out a typical selection of sashimi, grilled meats and fish, but many people come here specifically for their tori motsu nikomi (chicken giblet stew). It's served steaming hot, with a richly flavored miso-based broth balanced by silky tofu, big sweet chunks of onion and pungent scallions.

The sake selection is also very old-school, so you might want to stick to beer or shochu cocktails. A serving of stew with a small beer will run Y1600, or budget around Y3000 for dinner with drinks.