Surrounded by garish electronics shops and maid cafes, the curtained entrance to this old-school izakaya feels like a portal to another era. It's far from fancy inside, just an after-work drinking spot with a big wrap-around counter and ample table seating, with a TV set on in the background and cigarette smoke wafting from various tables.
The kitchen turns out a typical selection of sashimi, grilled meats and fish, but many people come here specifically for their tori motsu nikomi (chicken giblet stew). It's served steaming hot, with a richly flavored miso-based broth balanced by silky tofu, big sweet chunks of onion and pungent scallions.
The sake selection is also very old-school, so you might want to stick to beer or shochu cocktails. A serving of stew with a small beer will run Y1600, or budget around Y3000 for dinner with drinks.
This book will introduce you to more than twenty of Japan's favorite specialty foods that are less well known abroad, along with a guide to the best places in Tokyo to try them and expert tips on what to order. From Bento.com.