This neighborhood pizzeria serves top-class Neapolitan-style pizza in a casual, unpretentious atmosphere. There are plenty of homey touches like the pizza trays advertising an Italian beer, the chopped firewood piled up in one corner, and the lively Italian radio in the background. Your fork and knife are delivered neatly to your table in a small paper bag. Service is friendly and hospitable.

Though unpretentious in attitude, Il Tamburello's owner-chef possesses all the Tokyo Neapolitan-pizza credentials. He spent several years in Naples learning his craft, and he makes a point of using ingredients from the old country - flour from Caputo in Naples, canned tomatoes from Salerno, natural sea salt from Trapani in Sicily, and mozzarella from Caserta. Dough is fermented for 24 hours and then baked in a fancy kiln manufactured by Stefano Ferrara, known for producing very nice kilns.

At lunchtime you can choose from six different pizzas (including one weekly special), and a couple of grilled panini sandwiches. The Quattro Formaggi is suitably cheesy, with the various cheese components unevenly distributed over the surface so that each slice is a little different in flavor. Chili oil is available to further perk things up. Lunch also includes a starter course - either a trio of deep-fried delicacies or a vegetable soup - plus a mini dessert.

In the evenings there's a more extensive selection of starters - fresh burrata, potato-zucchini fritters, Baccala Fritto (salted cod), and charcuterie boards of cured meats. Pizza choices widen to cover twelve red pizzas (including calzone) and eleven white pizzas.

The wine list is reasonably priced, with bottles starting at Y3,800; wines are also served by the glass or carafe. Budget around Y4,000-5,000 at dinnertime, or Y1,800 for lunch.