Loup de Mer proves that good yoshoku cuisine needn't be stuck in a time warp. Our lunchtime Hokkaido beef curry (Y1100) was accompanied by a very appetizing salad of head cheese and red-cabbage slivers. The hunks of beef were tender, lean and very flavorful, beautifully complemented by the curry sauce, rich but with a bracing tanginess. The soft but still slightly crunchy deep-red pickles were excellent, with an almost cherry-like flavor.
Unlike most yoshokuya, the decor here won't make you sigh with nostalgia - the dining room is done up in a tasteful pastel color scheme from the current century. Chef Suzuki is a veteran of the famous Dom Pierre yoshoku establishment, and the menu also covers standards like hayashi rice and rice omelettes, and even offers tasting menus at Y5,000 and Y10,000.
by Robb Satterwhite