Glien Passage is a theme-park-extravaganza restaurant complex out in Aquacity, one of Odaiba's most lively shopping malls. Created by Global Dining, the company that brought us Zest, La Boheme and Monsoon Cafe, the complex includes branches of those three restaurants, plus their first Japanese restaurant, Gompachi (which now also boasts an even more extravagant branch in Nishi-Azabu).

Expecting an adventure in Neo-Japanesque Fusion dining, we were surprised to find a straight-ahead robatayaki menu, and a small one at that - yakitori, grilled fish, assorted side dishes and a handful of soba variations to round things out. It seems that by limiting the menu they've been able to focus on quality - everything we tried was first-rate, with succulent free-range chicken and other top-quality ingredients prepared to perfection.

Counter seating at the two big robata areas (smoking and non-smoking) is spacious, or you can choose one of several tatami rooms overlooking the harbor and Rainbow Bridge.

The small wine menu is Gompachi's one nod to current culinary fashion, but their smartly assembled sake list is a much better match for the food here. An outstanding addition to Odaiba's late-night dining scene.