The theater-like setting here is most dramatic, with a big round illuminated counter at center stage and darkened seating in semi-circular tiers looking down on the culinary action. You may be startled to see equally dramatic prices on the menu - a 300g piece of steamed spiny lobster with miso runs Y6900; charcoal-grilled abolone tops Y6000 - and every piece of fish seems to have a pedigree, identified carefully by its prefecture of origin.

Still, the level of the food here is first-rate, and the grilled-chicken portion of the menu is quite reasonably priced. The tsukune (chicken meatballs) and sasami (white breast meat) with wasabi are especially recommended, as is the grilled salmon and salmon roe on rice. There's also a good oyster selection - some 20 different varieties at any given time. If you feel like avoiding the spotlit central counter, the semi-private rooms upstairs are very comfortable and relaxing.