All You Ever Wanted To Know About Sake Yeasts
The topic of yeast in sake brewing is huge these days. Over the last
ten years or so, dozens of new yeast strains have been developed and
come into use. This has been one of those great technical advances in
the sake world - one factor that separates great ginjo of today from
the run-of-the-mill sake of yesteryear.
It is interesting and important to note that yeast development is one area of progress that has
taken place outside of the actual brewing process, yet still affects the final product greatly. In
other words, great sake might be brewed using a brand-spankin' new yeast strain, but the
actual brewing process be old, hand-made ways that eschew modern machinery.
How important is yeast? Quite. The selection of the yeast in brewing sake affects many
things. Most noticeably, fragrance. But, since our sense of taste is highly affected by -
if not dependent on - our sense of smell, this is important.
Properly tasting sake includes several phases of gainfully employing
the sense of smell. There is the initial sniff, noting the general fragrance
of a sake. There is also the fukumi-ka, which is a fragrance
that arises as you hold the sake in your mouth and breathe. There is
also the modori-ka, a third fragrance that becomes discernible
immediately after you expel or swallow a sip. Yeast will affect all
of these.
More on the chemical side, yeast - as most people well know - converts sugar
to alcohol and carbon dioxide. It is the heart of the creation of all alcoholic beverages. But
different yeast strains will produce different things, like esters, alcohols, and acids and other
chemical compounds that affect the nuances of fragrance and flavor.
Each yeast will give rise to its array of chemical compounds, with scary names like ethyl
n-caproate and isamyl acetate. These will be present in varying quantities, depending on the
choice of yeast and the successful progress (or lack thereof) of the fermentation. Which
esters, alcohols and other compounds are produced are highly dependent on the temperature
at which fermentation takes place. All of this will help to determine the character and nature
of the sake. In this way, the choice of yeast also directly affects flavor.
How does one strain of yeast physically differ from another? There are many ways, but not all
are so obvious. It is often not simply a matter of size or physical appearance. In fact, when the
cells of two yeast strains are set next to each other in a microscope, the average person is not
likely to be able to tell the difference.
The differences are more evident in other things. Like the length of the life cycle of the yeast:
how long will it work before becoming dormant, or how robust or fickle it is against alcohol
and/or temperature. Which alcohols, esters and other things it tends to give off as by-products
of its life cycle during fermentation is of course, another important factor.
New Yeast Development
Although we speak of a yeast being "developed," it is more a matter
of being isolated. The process of coming up with a new, specialized
yeast strain usually takes about three years, and is actually a kind
of reverse engineering.
Yeast is usually isolated by starting with a tank of sake being made.
It may be one in which many, many strains of naturally occurring (i.e.
floating in the air) yeast strains were allowed to initiate the fermentation.
Some of the thick foam on the top of the moromi (the fermenting
mash) is taken and analyzed. This foam has the highest concentration
of yeast cells in the tank. If the sake comes out well, the strain of
yeast that is most populous is isolated and reproduced for further study.
If it continues to demonstrate the desired qualities, it is made available
on a larger scale.
This first took place in the early 1900's. The Central Brewers' Union
would take pure yeast strains that had been isolated (usually by larger
breweries from particularly good tanks of sake) and make them available
to kura across the nation in pure form, usually in small glass
vials.
These yeast strains were assigned numbers by the Central Brewers' Union. At present, they
are up to number 15. Each one has its own special qualities. Yeast #1 through #6 are no
longer in use, as apparently the acid produced was too strong.
Yeast #7, #9, and #10 are perhaps the most important these days. Yeast #7, discovered by
Masumi of Nagano, is the single most commonly used yeast in the country, with its mellow
fragrance and robust strength during fermentation. Yeast #9 is the most common yeast for
ginjo-shu, due to its wonderful fragrance-creating abilities, and fairly healthy constitution
during fermentation. Yeast #10 produces a lower-acid, fine-grained flavor in sake, but is a bit
fickle at all but the lowest fermentation temperatures.
More recently, Yeast #14 - low in acidity with lots of pears and apples in the
fragrance - and Yeast #15 - very fragrant but not of such robust constitution,
are often seen used in finer sake, especially in particular regions.
There are, on top of the publicly available yeast strains, dozens of
others that are used on varying scales throughout Japan. Many of these
are proprietary, having been developed by kura and used only
by them, or more commonly, developed by prefectural brewing research
institutes and used by kura in that prefecture.
Many of these are wonderful indeed, and go well with the water and rice of that region. A few
examples of this include F701, also known as Utsukushima Yume Kobo from Fukushima, the
wonderfully fragrant Alps Kobo from Nagano, and HD-1 and NEW-5, which help Shizuoka
sake be the wonderfully drinkable brew that it is.
And finally, no discussion of sake yeast would be complete without mention
of the awa-nashi kobo, or foamless yeasts. Yeast #6, #7, #9 and
#10 all have cousins that do almost an identical job without producing
the massive amounts of foam that rise and fall and breathe majestically
throughout the course of the fermentation. These are designated by adding
a -01 to the number. For example, #901 is a foamless version of #9.
Why foamless? This saves hours and hours of grueling cleaning time,
scraping the remnants of the foam from the side of a tank before starting
the next batch. Also, since a third of each tank must usually be reserved
for the rising foam, more sake can be brewed with less space using such
awa-nashi yeast.
However, some experts say that the these foamless versions are not quite what their bubblin'
cousins are, in terms of the final product. Fragrance and flavors are not quite as refined,
although they may be 99 percent of the way there, say some. This is somewhat
unsubstantiated, and may be nonsense. It is most likely affected by preconceived notions, but
such talk has been heard.
Often these yeasts will be given working names, names that are more romantic
than a simple number. One example given above is the F701 from Fukushima,
known much more commonly as the Utsukushima Yume (dream) Kobo. Others
include mighty #9, also known as Kumamoto Kobo, in honor of the prefecture
from which it originally comes (more specifically, from the kura
that brews the fragrant and very fruity sake Koro. Number 10 was discovered
by a gent named Chikara Ogawa, so that it is often called Ogawa Kobo
(especially in northern Japan, where it was isolated). Number 14 is
often referred to as Kanazawa Kobo, and #15 is commonly known as AK-1,
for Akita Kobo, both in recognition of their origins.
Yeast is one of the newer developments in the sake world that we can all follow with interest.
Although it may not make much of a difference once you are sipping, learning to identify the
qualities of a yeast strain and searching for and comparing fragrance and flavor profiles can
be extremely instrumental in improving your palate. It can also simply be a lot of fun.
More and more commonly, especially for decent sake, the yeast used is listed on the bottle.
Be sure to look for and try to identify the various special qualities of the various yeast strains.
Those with more interest in sake yeast will soon find an in-detail chart listing the various
qualities of the various yeast strains, with other supplemental information, on my web page.
Sake to look for
Below are listed a few sake to look for. Along with a brief description of each is given a
ranking on a 100 point scale, and any known information about whether it is available in the
US.
Ranking sake is something I do grudgingly. It does little more than express how I feel
personally about a sake. It is really up to each individual to determine for themselves how
"good" or "not good" a sake is. I have based it on an arbitrary (but reasonable) 100-point
system.
The Sake:
1. Yorokobi no Izumi, "Kyokuchi" Daiginjo, Okayama
The "Kyokuchi" sake comes in two varieties; one made with Yamada Nishiki rice, and one
made with Omachi rice. They are different enough to be considered two entirely different
sake. The one referred to here is the Yamada Nishika version.
Floral and honey facets to the settled but omni-present nose. Overall, light in flavor,
but with an astoundingly well-structured flavor beneath that; solid, clean and subtly rich.
Rating: 91
2. Yoakemae, "Ki-ippon" Junmai-shu, Nagano
Lively, pro-active fragrance that jumps out to meet you, slightly rice-laced but with fruit
essences like plum and fig hidden in there as well. Good, thick-boned flavor, soft and demure
and slightly sweet. Wonderful slightly chilled on warm evenings.
Yoakemae also makes a wonderful nama (unpasteurized) version of this sake, rich and
festive.
Rating: 87
3. Yaegaki, "Mu" Junmai-ginjo-shu, Hyogo
A wonderfully settled and calm sake. A faint, well rounded nose with pear notes and a bit of
peach, perhaps a bit of greenery in their as well. Fundamentally a dry sake, but there is a
smooth and refined rice-like flavor on top, that is robust and full. Fairly low acid presence,
which allows the flavor to maintain its center-heavy richness. Available in the US for sure.
Rating: 83
4. Wakatsuru, Ki-Ippon, Toyama
A solidly-built sake but with a soft touch at the beginning. Slight apples and cantaloupe are
seemingly apparent in the beginning, but fade quickly as the flavor becomes drier and firmer.
Clean, with few off-flavors, but enough mouth feel to never bore. Slightly grainy tail will
have its fans and foes. Should be available in the US already.
Rating: 83
5. Tsuki no Katsura, Junmai-ginjo-shu, Kyoto
Soft in a typically Kyoto-sake way. The sweeter facets bounce around with acidic tones to
create a nice balance, delivered in a well-rounded package.
Tsuki no Katsura also makes a junmai nigori sake, that rich, cloudy
pina colada of the sake world. Worth a try, although it can hardly be
labeled subtle. Available in the US.
Rating: 84
6. Tenzan, "Hotaru-gawa" Junmai Ginjo-shu, Saga
A relatively fat, full flavor that hangs out a bit. A fairly low acidity keeps the flavors from
running around in your mouth too much, lending a richness that stops just short of being
cloying. Faint peaches in the nose fade into a drier than expected flavor that strikes the palate
softly, with a buttery essence rising up later. Good at room temperature or slightly chilled. Be
open, however, to experimentation. Soon to be available in the US.
Rating: 88
7. Tentaka, "Kokoro" Junmai Ginjo-shu
A clean and crisp sake, with a flavor that, while not really all that dry, is very solidly
constructed. The moderate fragrance is touched with a bit of greenery, but slightly flowery on
top of that. The acid content is fairly high but it gets buried (in a good way) within the other
encompassing aspects of the flavor profile. Soon to be available in the US.
Rating: 89
8. Tatsuriki, "Akitsu" Junmai Daiginjo-shu, Hyogo
This sake is made entirely from the top-rated sake rice, Yamada Nishiki. Bitter tones and
somewhat vegetation-laced elements play off of each other. The acidity hovers in the
background, as an effective contrast, enlivening the other flavors. Mellow and settled, the
almost intuitive richness comes out of the background. A bit of decanting-like exposure to air
does this sake good. Best at room temperature or chilled.
Rating: 93
9. Sekai no Hana, Junmai-shu, Shimane
Slightly on the sweet side, without the higher acidity expected from a junmai-shu. It does,
however, exhibit a typical Shimane touch in the nut-like essence in the nose, laced with faint,
faint figs and prunes. Good at room temperature, but will present a more simple face when
chilled.
Rating: 83
Where to Drink Good Sake in ... San Francisco
A recent trip to San Francisco presented the chance to check out firsthand a few places to buy
and drink decent sake.
First of all, it seems best to do your shopping in Japantown. For better or for worse, most of
the better sake is still being consumed by native Japanese living in the US. For that reason, it
is best to shop where they shop.
In Japantown, or more specifically, on Post just beyond the Japan Center, is a small Japanese
grocery called Maruwa. Down the street about 200 meters, on the opposite side of the street is
found a similar store called Uoki. (Uoki, however, does not have its name in English out
front.) Therein lie a source of perhaps 60 different sake.
Maruwa keeps its stock near the back of the store. They carry quite a wide
range of domestic sake. Take note of the explanation of sake types in
English on the wall by yours truly (which I was surprised to see).
Uoki has a similar but slightly better selection (although that is surely a matter of preference).
Less of an emphasis on domestic sake, which simply means a harder-to-find or rarer overall
selection. Most noteworthy here are Umenoyado Junmai Ginjo and Kubota gHekiju,h the
first for $34 and full but delicate, the second $78 and prized for its ultra light and clean flavor
(yawn, say some).
Dinner time? Great. Head down to Blowfish Sushi to Die For, 2170 Bryant
Street, but only after making reservations at 415-285-FUGU.
Although the focus of this review should be the sake, the food may end up stealing the show.
As might the ambience. The place is a heluva lot of fun. Modern not-so-Japanese appetizers,
with great presentation and lively flavors Naturally, usual suspects like sashimi are also
available.
Beyond this is the expected array of sushi, a la carte, and a whole range of
funky maki-zushi, hand-rolled sushi with great California-style stuffings.
Top these off with one of about a half dozen desserts that are, well,
to die for.
Ah yes, the sake. Plenty of that here too. There are ten to fifteen
varieties in what seems to be a fairly stable menu. These include Masumi,
Otokoyama, Onikoroshi, Harushika and others. They are generally available
in single-serving and double-serving glasses. It would be great if they
were to bolster this menu, and provide a bit more information (like
prefecture) on each sake. But that's nit-picking.
Blowfish Sushi To Die For is located at 2170 Bryant (South of Market). Reservations are
highly, highly recommended, especially for anything remotely resembling a large party.
415-285-3848
Sake Events
Finally, something for the all-too-neglected Kansai readers.
On the evening of Friday, November 12, at the Kobe Club in Kobe, there will be an evening
of sake and pottery that is open to the public.
Myself and Japan Times Ceramics Scene columnist Rob Yellin will each
give a presentation in our respective fields, followed by a wonderful
five-course meal with an accompanying sake for each course. There will
also be a short sake tasting before the meal for more thorough direct
comparison.
Those interested should contact the Kobe Club directly at 078-241-2588 to make
reservations. They can also be reached by email at kobeclub@gol.com. Participation is
limited and the event is expected to fill up fast.
On the evening of Wednesday, October 27th, at the Japan Society in New York City, there
will be a presentation on sake, followed by a sake tasting.
John Gauntner and Yasutaka Daimon, president of the brewery producing wonderful
Rikyubai sake in Osaka, will speak on sake-brewing as a craft and art,
and in particular about the toji head brewers, the craftsmen who direct
the brewing of sake at kura (breweries) in Japan: their lives,
their skills, and the culture that suffuses them. Call the Japan Society
at 212-832-1155.
On the evening of Thursday, October 28th, and again on Friday, October 29th, there will be
sampling of the sake premium sake during the dinner hours at Oyster Bar. Sake will be
available for purchase with meals as well. Not to be missed. For more information as the days
draw near, contact the Oyster Bar at 212-490-6650.
New Sake Book!!!
Be sure to check out the latest sake book on the market, Sake Pure
& Simple, written by myself and the CEO of SakeOne Corporation,
Grif Frost. The book is published by Stonebridge Press of Berkeley,
and is available through Amazon, at bookstores like Kinokuniya, and
for free by sending your name and address to SakeOne Corporation. (Send
your mailing address to:
grif-frost@sakeone.com for a free copy of the sake book. Offer good
for Sakeworld subscribers only and limited to one book per subscriber.
Offer expires October 30.)
Sake Pure & Simple is colorful, with a design that is eye-catching and stimulating. It is in
general a light-hearted but extremely informative read, with all you need or would want to
know about sake, plus a bit.
Included is an excellent directory of where to buy sake and drink sake in cities all
over North America.
Reader Feedback
... is encouraged. All questions, comments and criticisms will be
accepted and considered.
To submit a question or comment for the reader feedback section, send
an email with "Reader Feedback" in the subject line to sakeguy@gol.com.
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