|
Welcome
Welcome to the first edition of the Sake World newsletter. This newsletter
will be issued monthly, on the first of each month. Our goal is to disseminate
interesting and useful information about sake, including where to buy
it and taste in North America and Japan. It is hoped that through this
newsletter, a greater interest in sake will develop. Reader feedback,
questions and comments are always welcome and encouraged.
Sake is certainly worthy of worldwide consumption and appreciation.
Despite the comparisons with wine, it is a unique beverage, light and
unassuming, but with a deep potential for appreciation. However, a fundamental
appreciation and understanding about sake, its production, and the culture
surrounding it must develop for sake appreciation to go to the next
level outside of Japan. Hopefully, this newsletter will help to facilitate
that.
Consumer demand can be very powerful. At present, archaic laws in the
US make it very difficult if not impossible for consumers to get good
sake. Beyond that, as sake is not yet a mainstream beverage, distributors
and retailers nationwide are reluctant to give sake sufficient shelf
space or the proper care that ensures quality. If, however, enough consumers
clamor clearly and loudly, things will change. It is one of the goals
of this newsletter to promote such change. True appreciation for any
beverage - like craft beer and wine - can only gain critical
mass and rise above fad level if there is a widespread fondness and
interested on a grass-roots level. Average individuals need to be able
to relax with a bottle of sake, to get to know its ins and outs, and
what makes it special. Then and only then can true connoisseurship come
about.
Enjoy.
What is sake, actually?
As this is the first issue, it seems fitting to actually describe what
sake is, and how it is brewed. Many readers may be well familiar with
this, but a little review never hurts.
Many liken sake to wine as it is not carbonated and has a similar alcohol
content, others to beer since it is made from a grain. Technically,
it is more like beer in its production as it is indeed brewed (NOT distilled)
from grain, namely rice. It is appreciated and consumed more like a
wine, though. But no reason to split hairs, let's just allow it to have
its own category, sake.
Looking at how wine, beer and sake are brewed should make it more clear
just what sake is.
Wine is a fermented beverage. Fermentation is the process in which
yeast converts sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide, which in the case
of wine, is allowed to escape. Sugars are already present in the grape,
and these sugars are ready for use by the yeast cells as food and nutrients.
Although this simple and short explanation does not do justice to the
age-old art of making wine, it will serve our purposes here.
Beer calls for another step. There is no fermentable sugar in barley
grains, only long starch molecules that must be broken down into smaller
sugar molecules, some that will ferment and some that will add to the
flavor in other ways. To accomplish this, several other steps are necessary.
First, the barley must be malted. The grains are moistened and warmed
to start the germination process. This creates enzymes that patiently
wait in the grain for their opportunity to create sugar from starch.
Next, the malted barley grains are cracked and mixed with water, and
kept at specific temperatures for periods of time. This activates our
patient enzymes, which chop the starch molecules into smaller sugar
molecule, a process is called saccharification. The times and temperatures
of this "mashing" determine how the long starch molecules will break
down into fermentable sugar that will be available as food for the yeast,
and non-fermentable sugar that will contribute to other aspects of the
flavor. Only after these sugars come into being is yeast added, and
fermentation is then allowed to proceed.
Sake is also made from a grain; rice. However, the enzymes that break
the starch molecules into fermentable sugars in sake making come from
koji, which is steamed rice that has been carefully cultivated with
a mold called koji-kin, Aspergillus Oryzae in English. This magical
mold eats its way into the rice grains, and chops the long starch molecules
into smaller molecules that can be used by the yeast cells as food.
The resulting mixture is put in the same tank with the yeast and more
steamed rice, so that sugars are being produced by the koji and fermented
by the yeast in the same tank at the same time. This has been dubbed
"multiple parallel fermentation," a direct translation of "heiko fukuhakkoshiki."
That's an overview. The process itself, however, is complex. It is
very difficult to convey in a few words what people spend a lifetime
learning. So much of it is done by experience and intuition that simply
explaining the process does not justice to the art.
In the end, the little gem of wisdom worth taking away from all this
is that sake is brewed from rice in a process that is fairly unique
in the world of alcoholic beverages.
Subsequent issues of this newsletter will study in depth the various
steps involved in sake brewing. Each of them is critical and has the
leverage to affect the final product greatly.
News on Imported Sake
There are literally hundreds of sake products OK'd by BATF (Bureau
of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms) for import into the United States.
This does not mean that all are being actively imported at present,
nor that they are being at all marketed or distributed properly.
For a listing of all sake presently being imported, check out the BATF
website at http://ows.atf.treas.gov:8877/
, then enter 981 in the Product Class/Type box and hit Begin Search.
Although this is supposedly complete, there seems to be a few holes
as I have seen sake in the US that is not on that list. It is, however,
fairly comprehensive.
Naturally, this list will grow continuously. It will be hard to keep
tabs on what is available and where, but we mean to try.
Sake To Look For
Sake Recommendations
Since most readers are in the US, the six sake reviewed here have been
chosen as they are available both in the US as well as Japan. Although
distribution may be limited in some areas, a bit of searching should
prove profitable. I have chosen not to put in the nihonshu-do
and acidity here. They are interesting numbers, much like the residual
sugar or specific gravity of a wine or beer, but in the end do not have
all that much to do with the experience of flavor that one has when
tasting. There are a myriad of other superseding factors. It was also,
admittedly, a matter of practicality. I did not have the data for all
sake mentioned, and consistency seemed to be more of important than
thoroughness. In the future, such data should be included as it can
indeed give clues as to how a sake will fit into a tasterfs preferential
realm.
1. Tsukasa Botan: Senchu Hassaku
Tsukasa Botan is a fairly well known, large brewer from Kochi Prefecture
on the island of Shikoku. Tsukasa Botan makes a fairly wide range of
sake, with this particular one bearing the sub-brand, so to speak, of
Senchu Hassaku. The sub-brand name refers to a document signed on a
shop off the coast of Shikoku that played a big part in the overthrow
of the Shogunate at the time of the Meiji Restoration in the late 1800's.
Tsukasa Botanfs Senchu Hassaku is very dry, from beginning to end. However,
it maintains some satisfying edge to the flavor, and could hardly be
considered boring. There is a very light fragrance that - almost
because of its lightness - works well with the flavor. This one
is easy to spot; you don't need to be able to read Japanese. The label
of the green bottle is black with fluorescent orange characters splashed
across it.
2. Masumi: San-ka
Masumi comes from Nagano, and has the distinction of being brewed at
the highest kura in Japan, altitude-wise. Home of the Nagano Olympics.
They are famous for their sake: Masumi has a wonderful, straightforward
and simple style. The junmai-shu is basic, good sake that presents absolutely
nothing to complain about. A great value, actually. Masumi is also well
known for having discovered (isolated and identified might be more proper
diction) the most commonly used yeast in sake brewing, Number 7. (Yeast
that is distributed in pure form by the Central Brewers Association
is given numbers; they are up to 16 now.) San-ka means mountain flowers.
It is most accurately read as two distinct syllables, so as to not confuse
it with decaffeinated coffee. Same spelling, different pronunciation.
The sake itself is very fragrant and very light. It is a very well made
daiginjo with just the right amount of balance in almost all things.
It may not have any quirks (in a good sense) that would make it stand
out, but it is all but guaranteed to please all comers.
3. Takaisami
Brewed in one of the least populated regions of Japan, the San-in region,
consisting of Tottori Prefecture (where Takaisami comes from) and Shimane
Prefecture. Beautiful nature; mountains and the Japan Sea. Many wonderful
sakes also come from this region.. Takaisami means the "bravery
of the hawk." A great image for a great sake. The toji (head brewer),
Mr. Sakamoto, has been a toji for over 40 years, and an underling for
years before that. Half a century of spending six months of each year
living in the kura and brewing. He mentioned in an interview that when
he got married, three days later he left to go to the kura for the winter
to brew. Takaisami has a very solidly constructed flavor to it; sharp
and angular corners imparted by the proper placement of bitter and tart
elements, supplanted by a grassy touch. Fairly dry, with a nice crispness
to it. The well-grounded fragrance is flowery, but with a bit of earthiness
and greenery tied into it as well. It all works very, very well together.
Highly recommended to say the least.
4. Kamoizumi
Hiroshima Prefecture has long been a major sake brewing region, coming
in 5th or 6th each year in production volume, almost tied as it is with
Fukushima up north. And not just quantity, but quality reigns here.
Hiroshima has, since the inception of government-sponsored tasting competitions,
made excellent showings, often walking away with more awards than anywhere
else. Hiroshima sake is fairly unique. Comparatively speaking, it is
rather sweet. Naturally there are many exceptions, but compared with
ultra-popular Niigata dry sake, Hiroshima sake is soft, absorbing, and
sweet. Kamoizumi is unique even within these boundary conditions. There
is a heaviness, an earthiness, a settled aspect to the flavor. Deep
and rich for a sake, Kamoizumi also presents a seductive, light golden
color. The richness associated with the flavor comes across as smoky
and mossy, with a very light caramel touch behind that. For those that
like warm sake, Kamoizumi is a wonderful choice; almost all grades of
their sake can be enjoyed warm as well.
5. Wakatake Onna-Nakase
Wakatake is a meigara (brand name) from Shizuoka Prefecture, more famous
for green tea than for sake. Until about ten years ago, Shizuoka sake
was just average, really. Then, a good amount of local government-funded
research and cooperation brought Shizuoka sake to the front. Wakatake's
Onna-Nakase the name means "make the women cry," is
a fine-lined but well constructed daiginjo. The fragrance is light,
and a bit acidic, but supported by flowers and melon-like essences.
The flavor itself is gentle and balanced, and would soon be overpowered
by any strong-flavored food. Rice-like flavor, faint though it may be,
is bolstered by a balanced mouth feel neither dry nor sweet. Hard to
find, this one is, but worth the search. Wakatake also makes another
sake called Onikoroshi, Demon Killer, that is also of fine standing.
Although not as delicate, its richness makes it a bit sturdier. It may
be a bit easier to find. The inference behind the name is that this
sake is so damn good it would kill a demon.
6. Masu-izumi
Toyama Prefecture sits tucked beneath Niigata on the Japan Sea side
of Honshu. The icy cold waters make Toyama well known for its fine fish
and seafood. It would be worth a visit for just that alone. Although
Toyama does not brew sake on the volume-level that their northerly neighbor
does, plenty of excellent and character-laden sake does flow out of
the prefecture. Masu-izumi is indeed among the best. Most ginjo-shu
either has a great, ginjo flavor that can be complex and layered and
fruity, or has a wonderful nose that titillates and scintillates, often
being a combination of flower and fruit. These are sometimes referred
to as aji-ginjo (flavor ginjo) and kaori-ginjo (fragrance
ginjo). Masu-izumi, however, seems to somehow combine the two together
to come up with a winning combination in terms of ginjo flavor and ginjo
fragrance. The fragrance is far from overpowering but easily discerned
and has its share of staying power. Look for peaches and other soft
fruit, with a layer of light flowers beneath that, and a rice-laced
base as well. The flavor is fairly crisp and well-defined, not all that
dry and with a perfect flavor-spreading acidity as well.
Where to buy good sake in Japan
Passing through Japan on business or vacation? Live there but don't
know where to shop? Here's a quick guide. The simplest way to find good
sake is to hit the major department stores on the Yamanote line. Seibu
and Tokyu in Shibuya, Odakyu and Keio at Shinjuku, Tobu and Seibu at
Ikebukuro, and Matsuzakaya in Ginza are sure bets. Each has between
50 and 100 different brands; plenty to work with. Often, sampling is
possible of one or more brands being highlighted. Usually the staff
are well-informed, too.
There are, beyond the department stores, dozens of good sake shops
throughout Tokyo. One that is very recommendable and fairly accessible
is Sakaya Kurihara, just between Hiro and Roppongi, near the
Chinese Embassy. Lots of great selections, and the Kuriharas are extremely
helpful (although Japanese on ability on your part helps). Moto Azabu
3-6-17, 3408-5378.
One more is Suzuden, three minutes from Yotsuya Station. Be
sure to go into the basement, where there are three refrigerated rooms
housing sake, the temperature of which is inversely proportional to
the quality of the sake within. You'll need a jacket if you plan to
browse for daiginjo. Yotsuya 1-10, 3351-1777
Good Sake Pubs
This quick intro is, unfortunately, a bit Tokyo-centric, but will hopefully
expand with reader input.
Sake pubs like this will come in all manifestations, from serene to
boisterous, moderate to expensive. Some serve a wide range of standard
sake, where others stock sake that cannot be had elsewhere.
Try The Za in Shibuya for a young and lively crowd, low prices
and about 40 excellent sake. Taruichi in Kabukicho specializes
in whale and great sake, with a nice izakaya atmosphere and fair prices.
Sasashu in Ikebukuro is upscale and beautifully traditional.
Not cheap, but nice. Fukube near Tokyo Station is shitamachi
at its best; decent sake, dirt cheap and comfortable.
Sasagin in Yoyogi-Uehara throws excellent food into the great
sake equation at prices that bring you back. Eternally popular Akaoni
in Sangenjaya has a huge selection of sake, always with new stuff coming
in. Awesome sashimi. Not excessively priced, but not cheap. Mushu
in Awajicho has a funky interior, a very interesting food menu, and
a wide range of unique sake. Below average prices.
Finally, check out Kuri, scheduled, directly across the street
from Sakaya Kurihara in Moto-Azabu. It's tiny, seating perhaps a dozen,
but offers upwards of 100 sakes, much of it very special and unique.
Also, these will be available in 50ml "shot" sizes as well
as 90ml half glasses, and 180ml full glasses. Makes it easy to sample
several types and still make the walk home. There is an all-English
version of the sake menu, too. The fare will be mostly small curiously-flavored
snacks from around Japan chosen to complement the sake. The short walk
from Hiro or Roppongi is worth it.
Directory to the above shops:
The Za: Udagawa-cho 25-9, 03-3461-9598
Sasagin: Uehara 1-32-15, 03-5454-3715
Akaoni: Sangenjaya 2-15-3, 03-3410-9918
Mushu: Kanda Awajicho 1-1-1, 03-3255-1108
Taruichi: Kabukicho 1-17-12, 03-3208-9772
Sasashu: Ikebukuro 2-2-2, 03-3971-9363
Fukube: Yaesu 1-4-5, 03-3271-6065
Kuri: Motoazabu 2-11-1, 03-3497-0881
Reader Feedback
Beginning next issue, we will entertain questions and pass on information
gathered from readers for readers. Questions? Comments? Criticisms?
This is the place for them.
To submit a question or comment for the reader feedback section, send
an email with "Reader Feedback" in the subject line to sakeguy@gol.com.
Be sure to include whether or not you want your name and/or email address
to appear in the newsletter.
Sake Availability Project: Request TO Readers
It's a bit of a vicious circle, kinda chicken-and-egg, if you will.
Sake cannot really become popular and truly appreciated until it is
easily available. Yet, it cannot become more easily available until
there is a market of discerning consumers to support it.
Well, we have to work with what is available right now, and cause things
to grow from there. The first step in this, methinks, is to get a grip
on just what is available where, and disseminate that information.
I receive almost daily requests asking where one can find their favorite
sake, be it Kubota or Kamoizumi or Tsukasa Botan, in their city, be
that LA, New York, Dallas or elsewhere. Rarely am I able to be helpful.
Hence the birth of the Sake Availability Project, the eventual goal
of which is a directory of just what sake is available where around
the country. Readers familiar with Tom Dalldorf's Celebrator Beer
News magazine will no doubt know the craft beer directory found
in that magazine. We are aiming for something like that.
We at Sake-World will be working with just about every source we can
to hunt down just what is available and where. Naturally, this is a
moving target, with new sources coming others leaving all the time.
But we need to at least try.
But we need to appeal to readers as well. If you have the time, simply
send an email to sakeguy@gol.com, giving the name of any shop near you
handling a reasonable (ten or so) number of imported sake. Contact information
would be great too, if possible.
Sake Newsletter copyright (c) John Gauntner. Sake Newsletter is published by
Sake World. For more sake information,
visit their website .
| |