Kojima's setting is informal to the extreme. It's located inside the main building of Nagoya's wholesale food market, and at dinnertime you'll walk past dozens of shuttered fishmongers, butcher shops and vegetable stands to reach their counter. Sashimi and tempura-fried seafood are as fresh as can be, and the vegetables are far more appealing than anything you'll find at your local supermarket.

Unlike some tempura shops, there are no set menus here - you order by the piece from the postings on the wall or the compact menu. They offer a good variety of fish and shellfish in season, and you'll find special touches like shiitake mushrooms slathered in gorgonzola and lotus root stuffed with game meat. Tempura-fried nori seaweed is topped with salmon roe, and plump asparagus spears are sprinkled with ample shavings of parmesan as they're being served.

The full name of the shop is Tempura & Wine Kojima, and they serve a handful of wines by the glass at very reasonable prices. Beer is another option, but they don't serve sake. Service is friendly, and the atmosphere is lively and fun, no doubt encouraged by the down-to-earth setting. Budget a few thousand yen for food and drink.

Note that there is no English-language menu or English-speaking staff.