GohGan is a collaboration between two very talented, award-winning chefs, with innovative cuisine that combines French and Indian cooking techniques and seasonings. The kitchen turns out artfully presented little gems, with a smartly constructed prix-fixe menu (Y7,000) that's an excellent introduction for a first visit.

Our early-summer menu began with a surprising treat in the form of pani puri, a popular Indian street food. The dish consists of crisp, hollow fried dough balls, here served with a delicious spiced yogurt sauce for a refreshing start to the meal. This was followed by an outstanding sea urchin mousse immersed a sweet corn soup, and a red sea bream ceviche in an aromatic, spicy sauce.

"Hakata GohRimon" came next - a playful recreation of Fukuoka's famous Hakata Torimon manju-style sweet, with the white bean paste stuffing replaced by a dazzling melange of foie gras, tamarind jam and hyuganatsu, a local citrus fruit. The main fish and meat courses - Flounder in Albert Sauce, Wagyu Fillet - were a return to more solid French influences.

The rice course was GohGan's excellent signature Crab Curry, made from Hokkaido snow crab in a relatively spicy coconut cream roux. The finale of Creme Brulee (there's a choice of desserts) was extra creamy, with an optimal surface-to-volume ratio to obtain maximum crunchiness.

If you decide to order a la carte, there's a diverse selection of intriguing starters like Spicy Souffle Omelet and Kale-Kiwi Salad, and main dishes like Chicken Mushroom Pie and Lamb Kebabs.

Drinks include nine wines by the glass, cocktails, and non-alcoholic options like herbal teas and homemade lemon squash with rosemary. Service is cordial and attentive, with each dish described in loving detail as it arrives.

The tastefully modern dining room has well-spaced tables, and counter seating is also spacious and comfortable. There's extensive outdoor seating as well, directly overlooking the Nakagawa River.