Yaesu: Oden
Rakan (Yaesu: Oden)
Open 11am-11pm daily.
Sun: Open Sundays

This is one of the more accessible places in town to try gourmet oden - they're open all day rather than just evenings, and the spacious counter and train-station location make it a comfortable spot for solo diners. Lunch (served until 2pm) is an especially good deal - for Y1200 you can get an oden-centered meal featuring six pieces of oden in broth plus sashimi, a magnificent stewed tomato, wakame soup, pickles and rice. The oden, simmered in a mild dashi broth, is fairly typical, although the spicy fish ball was a pleasant surprise.

The oden selection expands after 4:30pm, as the subtle dashi-type oden is joined by hearty miso-stewed items like roast duck and pork tongue. Assorted platters of five oden pieces are priced at Y1600 for miso and Y1500 for dashi. If you want to make a night of it, there's a full menu of izakaya small dishes - sashimi, grilled fish, fried foods - along with sake and shochu. The intensely flavored, miso-based beef-tendon stew (gyusuji-nikomi) is especially recommended, and it's also available as a lunchtime set for Y1000.

Seating is at the twelve-person counter or a big common table, both with sunken floor seating. Take your shoes off at the entrance to the restaurant.

Chiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 1-9-1, Kurobei Yokocho (B1F).
Tokyo Beyond Sushi - the guidebook
Tokyo Beyond Sushi
Explore the hidden side of Tokyo dining
Charcoal-grilled pork on skewers, udon noodles in curry-flavored soup, octopus dumplings, deep-fried beef cutlet -- there's a whole world of exciting food in Tokyo that food-loving visitors often miss out on.

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Venue listing from Bento.com4 Star Rating: recommended