In laid-back Yoyogi-Uehara, magazine-reading, designer sneaker-wearing hipsters gather at Dish, a cheerful cafe just a stone's throw from the station. The space has an open, casual feel, decorated with urban mod flourishes - colorful sofas, fiberglass bucket chairs, and sixties-era bric-a-brac - that recall San Francisco's Mission district or Williamsburg in Brooklyn. Bouncy ska and Cuban R&B keep the mood lively, and original art is exhibited along the right-hand wall. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Uehara 1-33-16, Otsuka Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-3am daily.

This multi-purpose art space/cafe-bar is way off the beaten track but it draws a crowd of loyal regulars, including personalities from the Tokyo art scene and local hipsters. During the day you'll find standard cafe lunches (pastas, curries) served till 6pm, plus gourmet coffees - they roast their own beans once a week. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Kitazawa 1-45-36. Open 1pm-midnight daily.

The decor here is all earth tones, raw concrete and slabs of wood, with a big tree sitting right in the middle of the floor. Music ranges from reggae to laid-back rock, and the atmosphere is totally chilled-out - people talk in hushed voices, which may be exactly what you need when you stumble in here at 3am. It's "cafe time" from 2-7pm, with coffee and cake. No table charge; no English.[feedback]

Kitazawa 2-14-1, OT Bldg 3F. Open 2pm-5am daily.

They've pulled out all the stops to recreate the feel of an open-air Italian caffe-bar here - barrel tables, chalkboard menus, old advertising posters, grafitti on the walls, hams hanging from the ceiling, with Italian radio providing the soundtrack. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Kitazawa 2-14-14. Open 3pm-2am (LO) daily.

This tiny, ramshackle hole-in-the-wall is a late-night Shimo-Kitazawa legend, going strong since 1974. The space behind the bar is filled with mountains of CDs and shelves of vinyl (many of them 70s UK glam rock and local Japanese bands), and the seating area is so small that you have to step outside to let other customers in and out. When you order a drink the bartender telephones the similarly dilapidated sister bar just upstairs (Trouble Peach) and they deliver. (Y400 cover charge.) [feedback]

Kitazawa 2-9-18. Open 8pm-8am daily.

The small Spain Bar/ Spain Club chain has hit on a winning formula - good-quality wines by the glass, tasty tapas dishes and a down-to-earth vibe. The daily specials board covers some two dozen choices, and from it we recently enjoyed a big sizzling pot of garlicky sauteed mushrooms and some surprisingly spicy and juicy grilled pork on skewers - a nice match for our Y900 glasses of Rioja Reserva. Spanish travel videos play on the TV in the background. [feedback]

Kitazawa 2-9-22. Open 4-11:30pm daily.

Ushi-tora is a specialty beer bar that attracts Japanese connoisseurs from all over town with its collection of twenty beers on tap, most of them local microbrews. We recommend the Yona Yona Real Ale, one of three traditional cask-conditioned "real ales" that are hand-pumped. [See FULL REVIEW.][feedback]

Kitazawa 2-9-3. Closed 1st and 4th Tuesdays.

One of Tokyo's many ethnic-style cafes, with Indian-style curries, tea and desserts, imported handicrafts and a charmingly laid-back atmosphere. Around Y1000 at lunch (weekends only); Y2500 at night. [feedback]

Kitazawa 2-26-13. Open 5-11pm (from noon weekends). Closed Tuesdays.

A spacious, high-ceilinged bakery-cafe in the midst of Shimo-Kitazawa's young-fashion shopping district. The menu includes casual dishes like shrimp and avocado salad with French toast and cream cheese risotto with chestnuts, plus some elaborate desserts.[feedback]

Kitazawa 2-29-2. Open 11am-8pm daily.

A very friendly bistrot/wine bar/cafe with 1940s French antiques and a nice neighborhood vibe. There are three floors in all, with occasional live music on the top level. The menu is simple but well-prepared cafe fare. [feedback]

Kitazawa 3-30-3. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Tuesdays.