With its attractive purple walls, light green chairs, flower-patterned sofa covers and ceiling fans, Harrod's Brompton, run by the legendary British department store, recreates the atmosphere of a high-end hotel in London.

The menu focuses on ordinary British dishes, but the versions here are more sophisticated and upscale. The meat dishes are particularly good, especially the exquisite "Coppa Plate," which includes terrine of pig's ear and tongue, beef tartar, liver pate, sauerkraut and garlic toast. The juicy grilled sausages are also recommended - the taste and texture of the mashed potato that comes with the sausages is far beyond what one usually finds in Tokyo. And the chicken gorgonzola gratin is a perfect cold-weather dish.

Side dishes and appetizers like cole slaw, couscous salad and herring are well above average, reasonably priced, and served in large portions. The bulgur wheat, boiled and sauteed with butter, is a traditional Middle Eastern side dish that goes well with both meat and fish dishes. At lunchtime you can choose from hearty set menus like the Brompton Platter - bacon and eggs, mashed potatoes, baked beans, grilled vegetables, toast, soup and a drink, all for Y750. You can also add-on options like grilled sausage, fried codfish and deep-fried liver pate. The pancake lunch is also popular, especially with female customers.

Wines by the glass are carefully selected, and priced at Y800-2,400 per glass; these include Harrod's original wines and champagne, available only here in Japan, which are are highly recommended. You'll also find various Scotch whiskies, cocktails and beers as well as selected cigars, and you can enjoy this spacious dining room as a lounge bar. Harrod's men's clothing store is attached to the restaurant, and one can easily imagine a character like the well-dressed Michael Caine from the 1960's movie Alfie sweeping into the room with an attractive date on one arm. Budget around Y5000 for dinner with a few drinks.

by Hikaru Okabe