Yotsuya, Akebonobashi

Yotsuya 3-chome

Kaiji (Yotsuya 3-chome - Japanese regional). 3357-3789
Specialties from Yamanashi, including houtou noodles and raw horsemeat, in a tiny, mom-and-pop-run shop. No English spoken.
mapAizumicho 3. (on a tiny side street; turn right one block west of the fire station) Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO). Closed weekends.
!Thien Phuoc (Yotsuya 3-chome - Vietnamese). 3358-6617
Simple, down-home Vietnamese food prepared extremely well. Their deep-fried ichiba harumaki (market spring rolls) are crunchy and flavorful; other highlights are fried tofu stuffed with beef and an excellent pho noodle soup, listed on the menu as gyuniku udon. They serve 333 and Saigon beers, but don't miss trying a bottle of the eye-opening Chang beer from Thailand. The final bill comes in at a very modest Y2,000-Y2,500 per person.
mapYotsuya 3-11. (on the north side of Shinjuku-dori, one block west of the Yotsuya 3-chome station, just past the koban) Open 11am-3, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Yamachan (Yotsuya 3-chome - Bar). 5315-4688
A very casual, all-you-can-drink premium sake bar, Yamachan combines the best aspects of an industry sake-tasting event (lots of varieties freely available, at a reasonable all-inclusive price) and a typical urban sake-tasting bar (a carefully chosen selection of bottles, and chairs where you can sit down). The bar's unique self-pour policy is perhaps the best feature - it means that you can try out little sips from lots of different bottles until you find something you love. [Show more]
mapYotsuya 3-11, Nomura Bldg 4F. Open 6-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Kissa Sakaiki (Yotsuya 3-chome - Jazz kissaten). 3351-7904
By day it's a laid-back jazz coffeeshop, but in the evening it turns into a mini-jazz club, with a small performance and stage area that seats around fifteen people. The musical direction tends toward the avant-garde and experimental end of the spectrum. [Show more]
SunmapDaikyocho 2-4. Open 3-11:30pm daily.
!Higasa Amagasa (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 3225-0267
Craft sake from small, often obscure, breweries in Nagano Prefecture and elsewhere is the focus at this popular sake specialty bar. Servings are in small-size glasses and sharing is encouraged, so you can try several different types over the course of a meal and compare notes. The staff will be happy to make recommendations (in Japanese), or you can order from the detailed list. [Show more]
mapYotsuya 3-9-11, Yotsuya Shinko Bldg 7F. Open 5:30pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Waigai (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 6380-4025
Good craft sake and solid Japanese izakaya fare are the draws at this elegant but casual dining bar. The food menu features charcoal-grilled beef and chicken, along with small snacks especially suited to sake. [Show more]
SunmapYotsuya 3-8-9, Mitsui Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Mubu (Yotsuya 3-chome - Wine bar). 5367-3361
This rather old-fashioned basement bar is worth mention mainly for their late-night hours. Wine is served by the glass along with tapas-style snacks; budget around Y4000 for food and drink (including Y420 cover charge).
lateSunmapFunamachi 7, Powaro Bldg B1F. Open 6pm-4am (Sun -2am) daily.
!Dasenka (Yotsuya 3-chome - Czech). 5269-6151
A tiny, bookshelf-lined cafe-bar serving Czech, Polish and other Eastern European fare. Menu items include excellent bramborak potato pancakes, goulash made with beer, Moravian-style roast pork and homemade cornbread. [Show more]
SunmapFunamachi 7, Tajima Bldg 201. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Fairfax Grill (Yotsuya 3-chome - International). 3353-6540
Innovative cuisine, friendly service, and the feel of a comfortable neighborhood bistro. The food menu promises adventure, with tastes ranging from sea urchin and ikura with green tea noodles to Louisiana shrimp. [Show more]
lateSunmapFunamachi 8. Open 11am-2am daily.
!Gabisan (Yotsuya 3-chome - Chinese). 3359-2669
Well-prepared Chinese standards and some Szechuan-style noodle dishes, with a mostly neighborhood crowd.
SunmapFunamachi 8. (above Fairfax Grill) Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
!Dodo (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakitori). 3356-8403
Memorable charcoal-grilled yakitori for Y4,000 to Y8,000 per person (with drinks). They've got an interesting sake list, including multiple variations from Kubota and other small brewers.
latemapFunamachi 12. (on Gaien-Higashi-dori) Open 6pm-5am (Sat. to 11pm). Closed Sundays.
Asama (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 3355-2977
The sign outside this old-school sake pub entices with the promise of jizake - local sake - and makes good on that offer. On Friday nights, the crowd consists mainly of beer-drinking salarymen, but Asama is a great place for those who love sake. [Show more]
mapYotsuya 3-7. Open 5-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Dipmahal (Yotsuya 3-chome - Indian). 3341-9465
Above-average curries and tandoori dishes, at good prices.
SunmapYotsuya 3-3, Stream Yotsuya 2F. (from Yotsuya 3-chome walk towards Yotsuya sta, take the second left; the shop is on the right a few doors in) Open 11am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
La Taperia (Yotsuya 3-chome - Spanish). 3353-8003
Excellent Spanish cooking, including a good variety of tapas dishes; the spicy lamb kebabs are especially recommended. Service is friendly, and the decor is casual and cheerful, with bright yellow tablecloths, bullfighting posters and Spanish music adding to the atmosphere.
mapYotsuya 3-3, Stream Yotsuya B1F. (from Yotsuya 3-chome walk towards Yotsuya sta, take the second left; the shop is on the right a few doors in) Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Marumugi (Yotsuya 3-chome - Beer bar). 6380-4745
A tiny (14-seat) second-floor bar specializing in craft beers from around Japan, with an ever-changing selection. The atmosphere is laid-back (there's a muted TV set along with loungey background music), and the crowd is very local. All beers are Y1000 a pint, and there's a limited menu of bar snacks (sausages, cheese) to go along.
SunmapArakicho 1, Ichibankan Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Imaiya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakitori). 3341-7555, 4588-4276
Hinai-dori - heirloom-breed chicken from Akita Prefecture - is the specialty at this upscale yakitori shop, and the white liver and tebasaki (wings) are especially recommended. They also serve regional dishes like kiritampo. Budget Y5000-7000 at dinnertime, or splurge on a prix-fixe party menu (Y4500-6500).
SunmapFunamachi 4-1, Maison de Yotsuya 1F. Open 5-11:30pm (LO; Fri, Sat -1am) daily.
Carino (Yotsuya 3-chome - Spanish). 3225-6226
"Jamon y vino" is the simple yet enticing concept at this small tapas bar, with Spanish wines starting at around Y3800 per bottle. Typical dishes include Iberico chorizo sausages, Catalan-style pizzas, and grilled meats and seafood on skewers. The food is great, but the pace of delivery can be somewhat leisurely. Budget around Y4000 for food and drink.
latemapArakicho 1, Nakabayashi Bldg 1F. Open 6pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Sundays.
Makotoya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 6380-0829
Charcoal-grilled pork on skewers is the big draw here, and they serve a good variety of organ meats as well as the usual cuts like pork belly. They prepare some very nice yakitori, and they offer good sake and shochu selections, all at very reasonable prices. The old-school izakaya atmosphere is comfortable, although the air can get a bit smoky at times depending on where you're sitting.
mapArakicho 1-1. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Deep (Yotsuya 3-chome - Bar). 3351-2393
A quiet neighborhood spot with an impressive collection of jazz and soul music on vinyl, for your listening pleasure. There's a Y500 cover charge.
mapArakicho 1-2. Open 8pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Suzunari (Yotsuya 3-chome - Kaiseki). 3350-1178
This tiny, Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant offers good value for money, with prix-fixe menus starting around Y5000. Counter seats are the best; other areas can get smoky.
mapArakicho 7. Open 6-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!All That Jazz (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 5379-3663
Nearly thirty well-chosen craft sake from relatively obscure small breweries are on offer at this cozy neighborhood drinking spot. There are also sake-friendly nibbles like grilled dried fish and cured meats - the smoked cheese, fish and meat platter is especialy recommended. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink.
mapArakicho 9-22, 2F. Open 6pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
Ringo no Hana (Yotsuya 3-chome - Japanese regional). 6380-6724
Aomori Prefecture in Northern Japan produces some very nice sake, and Ringo no Hana is a good place to try it out. Some twenty different types of local craft sake are served either in ichi-go flasks or small 60cc tasting sizes if you want to explore a bigger variety. Adventurous drinkers may also be interested in their fruit- and herb-flavored liqueurs. [Show more]
mapArakicho 11-24, Arakicho AC Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-1, 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Doromamire (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakitori). 6380-1197
There's a lot of good yakitori to be found in the izakaya-lined alleyways of Arakicho, but Doramine grills up some of the best. The chicken here is good enough to eat raw, and indeed the shop's chicken sashimi dishes are among our favorites, as are their chicken liver skewers, also served quite rare. Your daily vegetable requirements can be met with appealing side dishes like corn kakiage tempura, with a decent selection of sake to complement your meal. Budget around Y4000-5000 at dinnertime - a bargain for this level of quality.
mapArakicho 20, Yakata Bldg 2F. Open 6pm-1am (LO; Sat -10pm). Closed Sundays.
Suzushin (Yotsuya 3-chome - Tonkatsu). 3341-0768
Good, reliable tonkatsu from this long-running neighborhood shop.
mapArakicho 10-28. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Vow's Bar (Yotsuya 3-chome - Bar). 3353-1032
This tiny second-floor bar has a Buddhist theme - the name in Japanese is "bouzu", or Buddhist priest - with a little shrine in one corner and bartenders dressed in appropriate priestly garb. Drinks include several variations on shochu and plum wine, and there's a small food menu to go with your drinks.
mapArakicho 6-42, AG Bldg 2F. Open 7pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Tribes (Yotsuya 3-chome - African). 070-5366-0092
Formerly located in Kagurazaka, this small neighborhood bar serves a menu of African and African-inspired dishes like cous cous, peanut-chicken stew, crocodile and camel. Drinks include cocktails, African beers, and a decent list of South African and north African wines starting in the range of Y3000 per bottle. Be sure to inspect the "Little Africa" diorama while you're here.
mapArakicho 7-14-101, Axas Yotsuya Sanchome 1F. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Tsuruya Vino (Yotsuya 3-chome - Wine bar). 5368-0307
This tiny neighborhood wine bar has the unusual policy of letting you try before you buy - you can take a sip or two of whatever bottles are open before committing to their wine by the glass. The food is also quite good, with game birds and meats in season and numerous smaller dishes if you just want a quick nibble. Budget around Y4000-7000 at dinnertime. [Show more]
latemapArakicho 7-3, Monserrat Yotsuya 1F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Ramukana (Yotsuya 3-chome - Swiss). 6457-4942
Beautiful heirloom vegetables, sourced from small farms all over Japan, are the pride of the kitchen at Ramukana. The menu's centerpiece is a hearty cheese fondue, served with raw vegetables, bread, and optional "toppings" such as the excellent smoked bacon chunks. A couple of nice Swiss house wines are available by the bottle, carafe or glass (Y5000 / Y2600 / Y900), along with reasonably priced French wines starting at Y3500. [Show more]
mapArakicho 3-10, Dai-3 Halcyon 2F. Open 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Rheingau (Yotsuya 3-chome - German). 3357-2209
One of Tokyo's original German restaurants, Rheingau is so old-school that the sign out front sports a seven-digit phone number. The food menu covers Tokyo's favorite German delicacies (sauerbraten, eisbein, various sausages), while the beer list offers the usual Tokyo imports - Erdinger, Bitburger, Schofferhofer - at below-average prices. There are even a few schnapps on offer. Budget Y4000-5000 at dinnertime; lunch from Y850.
mapArakicho 3-23. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Himonoya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 3359-8088
There's a good selection of sake to go with your grilled himono (dried fish) and other izakaya fare, all at quite reasonable prices. Lunch is served until 4pm.
SunmapYotsuya 3-2-2, TR Bldg B1F. Open 11am-1am (LO; Sat, Sun -12) daily.
Saboruna (Yotsuya 3-chome - Italian). 6313-4105
Reasonably priced Mediterranean/Italian food and wine, including grilled meats, pastas and pizzas. Wines start at Y2700 per bottle. Budget around Y3500 for dinner and drinks; lunches start at Y780. No lunch on weekends.
SunmapYotsuya 3-6, Asunaro Bldg 3F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-11pm (LO). Closed Saturdays.
Leave A Nest (Yotsuya 3-chome - Cafe). 6380-5129
A pleasant cafe with an Italian-influenced food menu and Y500 cocktails. There's also a selection of board games - backgammon, chess, go, shogi and many more - available at Y1000/person for 100 minutes.
SunmapYotsuya 2-11-6. Open 11am-11pm. Closed Saturdays.
!Bistro Cinq (Yotsuya 3-chome - French). 3350-4050
First-rate French cuisine and very reasonably priced wines. The setting is rather minimal - old-fashioned coffee-shop decor in a well-used basement space, with just a counter and a few tables. Budget around Y6000-8000 for food and drinks.
mapYotsuya 3-1, Suga Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
La Boqueria (Yotsuya 3-chome - Spanish). 5366-0505
The main draw at La Boqueria is the "wine buffet," an open bar with over a dozen different wines, not top-end but still very drinkable, priced at Y1980 for two hours. The dining room is attractively furnished with unexpectedly large tables and comfortable seating, apparently left over from the upscale Italian restaurant that used to occupy this space. The food is rather hit-or-miss - it's best to stick to very simple dishes like the assorted meat and cheese plates and the quesadillas.
SunmapYotsuya 2-11, Assist Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
!Maison Cache-Cache (Yotsuya 3-chome - French). 5363-5263
Excellent traditional French cooking in a comfortable, smoke-free dining space reminiscent of a provincial French inn. [See FULL REVIEW.]
no smokingmapWakaba 2-7, Video Focus Bldg 1F. Open noon-2, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.

Akebonobashi, Ushigome-Yanagicho

Chez Le Mak (Akebonobashi - French). 5315-4450
Upscale bistro fare in a casual setting; we counted four different foie gras items on our daily menu. Wines are reasonably priced, with several in the Y4000-6000 range, and the dining room is cozy and intimate. Budget around Y6000 at dinnertime. Lunch is served Tuesday-Friday only.
mapArakicho 15, Sun Chateau 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Faith (Akebonobashi - Sandwiches/ burgers). 6661-3353
Charcoal-grilled gourmet burgers and sandwiches can be ordered for delivery within most of Shinjuku and Chiyoda wards. Sandwiches are priced Y980-1500, with a line-up of Cajun Smoked Chicken; Reuben; Pastrami; Shrimp Avocado and ten more varieties. [Show more]
mapArakicho 16, Espero Bldg 101. Open 11:30am-3, 5-8pm. Closed Sundays, Tuesdays.
Ebiden (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 3353-2990
Good tempura at reasonable prices at this unpretentious neighborhood shop. The tempura teishoku is Y1890, full-course dinners are Y2940, and fancy kaiseki menus start at Y5250. Lunch starts at Y680, with a deluxe tempura teishoku going for Y1260.
no smokingmapSakamachi 15. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Yuzen (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3359-8182
This friendly neighborhood drinking spot serves up creative izakaya fare prepared from fresh, very seasonal ingredients. In fact the staff will often bring out a platter showing off produce from the market and the catch of the day, to help you decide on your order. Some highlights here have included highly seasonal fare such as their excellent charcoal-grilled bamboo shoots and tempura-fried garlic shoots and mountain vegetables. [Show more]
mapArakicho 16, Berwood Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Deep Sagar (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3353-1799
Good budget Indian curries at this modest neighborhood shop, with take-out bentos from Y550 at lunchtime.
SunmapKatamachi 1-2, Dai-Asia Bldg 1F. Open 11am-3:30, 5-10pm daily.
Yoshiura (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3357-6680
Still going strong after seventy years, Yoshiura exudes a classic old-school izakaya charm that's hard to match. They draw a loyal neighborhood crowd with their reasonably priced sake (mostly well-known premium brands like Kubota and Denshu) and good sashimi and other izakaya fare. Budget around Y4000 for food and drink. (No English menus or service.)
mapKatamachi 5. Open 5-11:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Kamiya (Akebonobashi - Japanese). 3351-4357
Fugu is the wintertime specialty here, with fugu-centric prix-fixe dinners starting at Y10,000, with sake or wine to drink. Soba lunches with tempura and/or sashimi are priced Y1260-3150.
mapSumiyoshicho 7-1, Fukumatsu Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Akiyama (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 5269-6093
Udon noodles and decent izakaya fare are served until late at night at this neighbhorhood drinking spot. Open until 11pm Saturdays, 2am on weeknights (LO).
latemapArakicho 23-15. Open 5pm-2am (LO). Closed Sundays.
Shoji (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 5379-3557
One of the specialties of the house at this first-rate tempura counter is anago, served with a tasty golden-brown coating that's thicker than average and satisfyingly crunchy. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5,000, Y7,000 and Y10,000, with reasonably priced sake and wines to accompany your meal. Voluminous deluxe donburi lunches are a bargain at Y1700-2000.
no smokingmapSumiyoshicho 2-18, Win Yotsuya 2F. Open 11:30am-1, 6-8:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Siddique (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3358-8100
Reliable budget curries to take out or eat in at this branch of the popular budget Indian chain. Lunch service until 5pm.
SunmapSumiyoshicho 2-9. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Spice (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3356-3626
Good Indian curries, tandoori items and Nepalese starters and side dishes. The momo dumplings are better than average, and the Indian Salad is impressively spicy. Budget around Y2000-2500 at dinnertime; set meals (with rice or nan) start at around Y1100.
SunmapAizumicho 19-13. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
A Demain (Akebonobashi - French). 3353-6708
A very casual neighborhood French spot, with good vegetable dishes and some game birds in season. Budget around Y3000-5000 for dinner with drinks. No lunch on Thursdays
SunmapIchigaya-Daimachi 4-1. Open noon-2, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Swekreeti (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3353-5506
This cozy basement "Asian dining" spot mainly features Indian and Nepalese curries, although they also offer a few Thai dishes for variety. Lunch is served until 5pm. Lunch sets start at Y750, and dinner sets (curry plus rice/nan plus drink) start at Y1150.
SunmapSumiyoshicho 5-9, Refresh Sumiyoshi B-Wing B1F. Open 11am-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Abuzo (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3341-3214
A cozy neighborhood izakaya, Abuzo specializes in charcoal-grilled beef, pork, chicken and ocean trout, with a decent sake list alongside. The white chicken livers, fresh every day, are a revelation, as is the grilled vegetable salad. Budget around Y4000-5000 for ample food and drink (includes Y600 table charge).
SunmapSumiyoshicho 8-20. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Kurachan (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3357-6407
A quiet, extremely unpretentious neighborhood drinking spot, Kurachan sports a classic old-school izakaya decor and serves an interesting selection of craft sake along with excellent grilled chicken. We've found it most advantageous to discuss our sake preferences with the staff and follow their suggestions, although there is chalkboard menu listing their regular offerings (all in Japanese). Some food highlights include their unusual natto karaage and some excellent ume-shiso tebasaki. Budget around Y5000.
mapSumiyoshicho 10-11. Open 6-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Comida (Akebonobashi - Wine bar). 3356-6543
This neighborhood bar attracts a crowd of regulars with their inexpensive wines (from Y300 per glass) and good selection of tapas-style dishes.
SunmapSumiyoshicho 8-10, Lion's Mansion Ichigaya 1F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-11pm daily.
!Garni (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Japanese). 6457-4145
Yakiton (charcoal-grilled pork on skewers) is the main dish here, but instead of a smoky izakaya the atmosphere is closer to a stylish wine bar, with a selection of wines by the glass (Y680-1000) to go with your skewers - a great combination. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapIchigaya Nakanomachi 4-28. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Tuesdays.
Ogasawaratei (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Spanish). 3359-5830
Elegant, high-end Spanish food in rather grand surroundings - the former residence of Count Ogasawara. Lunch from Y7000, full-course dinners from Y9000, not including wine.
SunmapKawadacho 10-10. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9pm (LO) daily.
!Aguri (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Teppanyaki). 3353-7292
Excellent grilled seasonal vegetables share top billing with the grilled meats at this charming neighborhood teppanyaki restaurant. There are pork-stuffed giant mushrooms, asparagus with cheese and basil, nicely charred bamboo shoots with thick slabs of bacon, shiitake shumai dumplings, grilled eggplant with shrimp and sudachi, grilled broccoli with bacon and garlic - over twenty vegetable dishes in total. [Show more]
SunmapKawadacho 10-7, Green Hills Kawadacho 1F. Open 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Momo (Ushigome-Yanigicho - Curry). 3269-8893
Located in the middle of a residential area, Cafe de MoMo feels like a neighborhood hangout with its brightly colored, comfortable furnishings, its hip musical soundtrack (lots of dub reggae) and its homestyle cooking. The menu features original curries like their "milk curry," made with chicken, paprika, zucchini and other vegetables, as well as keema, spicy beef, mixed-vegetable, and a few other variations. [Show more]
mapIchigaya Kagacho 2-2-9, Casa Rosse 1F. Open 11:30am-3:30, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Yakuoji Cafe (Ushigome-Yanigicho - Coffee shop). 3269-0575
An artsy little neighborhood cafe serving espresso beverages, drip coffee of the day, and matcha. Lunches run Y500-1000, and they also roast their own beans, on sale from Y450/100g.
no smokingSunmapIchigaya Yakuojicho 66. Open 8:30am-8pm (Sun 11:30-7). Closed Saturdays.
Tsuzuku (Ushigome-Yanigicho - Izakaya). 3268-6467
A very casual drinking spot serving excellent sashimi, good grilled fish and other izakaya fare to a neighborhood crowd.
mapIchigaya Yanagicho 8. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
L'Habitude (Ushigome-Yanigicho - French). 3260-8784
A classic French neighborhood restaurant, with good, meaty fare and casual bistro-style seating at small tables. Three-course prix-fixe menus are Y2940, or Y1050 at lunchtime for two courses. Wines, mainly from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Languedoc-Roussillon, are quite reasonable, with a good number of bottles in the Y3000-5000 range and 500ml decanters available for many of them.
SunmapMinami-Yamabushi-cho 3-5. (on Okubo-dori) Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.

Yotsuya

Shinobu (Yotsuya - Japanese). 3355-6338
Beef tongue is the specialty here, grilled or stewed.
mapSaneicho 16. Open 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Eagle (Yotsuya - Jazz kissaten). 3357-9857
Boasting a big collection of vinyl, an impressive sound system and humongous JBL speakers, Eagle has a certain old-school jazz-kissaten charm, as long as you don't mind the cigarette smoke. In the afternoons it's "quiet time," when you're encouraged to refrain from talking while listening to the music over a strong cup of coffee (Y680) or a snack (quiche, cake, or chili along with a cup of coffee, from Y800). [Show more]
mapYotsuya 1-8-4, Horinaka Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-midnight. Closed Sundays and holidays.
Okagesan (Yotsuya - Izakaya). 3355-8100
The sake selection at this Michelin-starred izakaya is pretty impressive, and the food is above average, but not quite good enough to justify the prices. Prix-fixe menus are the only option, and they start at Y5000. Seating is cramped, but service is friendly and the non-smoking policy improves things a bit. [Show more]
no smokingmapYotsuya 2-10, Matsumotokan B1F. Open 6-10:15pm (LO). Closed Sundays, Mondays.
!Bankashien (Yotsuya - Szechuan). 3226-0686
Bankashien's menu covers everything from budget noodle dishes to Szechuan and Shanghai-style standards, with quality ranging from pretty good to pretty fantastic. The hits here really stand out, so it's well worth exploring the menu over the course of repeat visits. Some of our memorable discoveries have included the meaty and garlicky gyoza dumplings and the tasty and beautifully textured spring rolls. The mabo dofu is another prize-winner - far spicier than average, with a pleasantly gloopy consistency that works quite well. [Show more]
mapYotsuya 2-3-6, Palm Yotsuya B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holidays.
Euroseed Wine Plus (Yotsuya - Liquor shop). 5379-8778
Half wine shop, half European-import grocery store, Euroseed stocks an eclectic range of jams and preserves, candies and coffee beans, olives and salsa, and lots more on its crowded shelves. Sale prices are often a few hundred yen lower than other import shops in town.
SunmapYotsuya 2-9, APS Kinen Bldg 1F. Open 11am-9pm daily.
Mar (Yotsuya - Italian). 3359-3147
Good cost-performance at this neighborhood Italian spot; budget around Y4500 for dinner with drinks, Y1000 for lunch.
mapYotsuya 2-9, Takagi Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Tete-a-tete (Yotsuya - French). 3356-1048
A tiny neighborhood place with well-prepared French food. There are only 4 or 5 tables, split between two levels, so be sure to call ahead.
mapYotsuya 2-3-19. Open 11:45am-2, 5:45-9:15pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holidays.
Bottega (Yotsuya - Wine bar). 3358-9547
This casual bistro offers value-priced wines and meaty Mediterranean snacks late into the night. The spacious basement dining room has a warm feel to it - heavy on the wood and brick, with floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with wine bottles surrounding the tables. [Show more]
lateSunmapYotsuya 1-24, Mitsui Garden Hotel B1F. Open 5pm-3am (LO; Sat, Sun - 11:30pm) daily.
Salsa Cabana Bar (Yotsuya - Tex-Mex). 3225-1774
Solid Tex-Mex food and friendly service.
lateSunmapYotsuya 1-20-9. Open 11:30am-2, 5pm-1:30am (LO) daily.
!Romina (Yotsuya - Peruvian). 3226-6608
Brilliant Peruvian food and drinks at relatively inexpensive prices. Try their vanilla flan for dessert, if you still have room. There's also a big lunch menu. (Avoid Sunday nights if you don't like big crowds.)
SunmapYotsuya 1-7-27, Central Yotsuya Bldg. 2F. Open 5-11pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Yotsuya Brewery (Yotsuya - Belgian rest/beer bar). 3353-1009
No, despite the name this isn't a brewpub, simply a small neighborhood bar with a decent selection of Belgian beers on tap and by the bottle. Prices are around average, and opening hours are very late.
lateSunmapYotsuya 1-8, Nakagawa Bldg 1F. Open 5pm-5am (Sat -2am, Sun -12) daily.
Kuraya (Yotsuya - Soba/Udon). 3356-7571
A sake and soba restaurant, Kuraya serves soba made from 90% buckwheat, supplemented by simple izakaya fare like grilled fish and chicken, and tofu and yuba dishes. The sake is from well-known regional breweries like Tengumai, Kubota and Ichinokura, and there are also a few sake-based fruit liqueurs. Budget around Y2800 at dinnertime.
SunmapYotsuya 1-4-2. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:30pm (Sat, Sun -10:30) daily.
Wagokoro (Yotsuya - Izakaya). 3357-6556
Forty brands of craft sake, all priced at a reasonable Y800 per ichigo flask, are offered at this small neighborhood sake specialist. The supporting food menu is quite reliable, with lots of seasonal vegetables and well-prepared meat and seafood items - our grilled shishamo was some of the best we've ever tasted. [Show more]
SunmapYotsuya 1-3, 2F. Open 5pm-midnight daily.
!Fuku no Hana (Yotsuya - Japanese regional). 3351-0949
Regional cuisine, local sake and shochu from Yamaguchi Prefecture are served at this friendly after-work izakaya. The menu features premium-quality heirloom-breed chicken, Takamori beef, locally caught seafood and seasonal vegetables, all brought in fresh from Yamaguchi. The charcoal-grilled section of the menu is especially recommended. [Show more]
SunmapYotsuya 1-9, Miyake Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:15pm (LO) daily.
Suzuden (Yotsuya - Liquor shop). 3351-1777
A well-stocked sake specialty store; don't miss the refrigerated rooms down in the basement. There's also a stand-up bar in back with around a dozen sake by the glass along with simple, inexpensive bar food (weeknights only).
mapYotsuya 1-10. Open 9am-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Hotel de Mikuni (Yotsuya - French). 3351-3810
A legendary old-school Tokyo French restaurant that's been here forever. Lunch from Y6,000, dinner from Y14,000.
mapWakaba 1-18. Open noon-1:30, 6-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Paul (Yotsuya - Cafe). 5368-8823
Good pastries and plenty of outdoor seating.
SunmapYotsuya 1-5-25, Atre Yotsuya 2F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Paul (bakery) (Yotsuya - Bakery). 5368-8823
European-style bread, pastries, and a big assortment of sandwiches to go.
SunmapYotsuya 1-5-25, Atre Yotsuya 2F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm daily.
Manuel Casa de Fado (Yotsuya - Portuguese). 5276-2432
This second branch of Tokyo's Portuguese pioneer restaurant is far more upscale than the Shibuya original, with spacious, comfortable dining rooms (smoking and non) a bigger, more serious menu, and a sommelier. Recommendations include the rabbit stewed in red wine and the potato and dried cod croquettes. The wine list includes both "traditional" and "international" Portuguese wines, depending on your tastes (we prefer the latter). Budget Y5,000-8,000 for dinner, depending on your choice of drinks. There's live folk music some nights - call to check. [Go to branch review]
SunmapRokubancho 11-7, B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
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