Yotsuya, Akebonobashi

Yotsuya 3-chome

!Thien Phuoc (Yotsuya 3-chome - Vietnamese). 3358-6617
Simple, down-home Vietnamese food prepared extremely well. Their deep-fried ichiba harumaki (market spring rolls) are crunchy and flavorful; other highlights are fried tofu stuffed with beef and an excellent pho noodle soup, listed on the menu as gyuniku udon. They serve 333 and Saigon beers, but don't miss trying a bottle of the eye-opening Chang beer from Thailand. The final bill comes in at a very modest Y2,000-Y2,500 per person.
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-11. (on the north side of Shinjuku-dori, one block west of the Yotsuya 3-chome station, just past the koban) Open 11am-3, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Hitsujiya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Middle Eastern). 5357-7920
Lamb kebabs and incredibly cheap wines from around the world are the attractions at this casual Yotsuya dining spot. Wines start at under Y1000 per bottle, thanks to their policy of marking up wines by only Y100 over retail prices. If you're feeling adventurous, many of the choices represent lesser-known wine-producing countries like Uruguay, Moldova, Azerbaijan and Croatia. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-13-24, Mizuki Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 6:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Kissa Sakaiki (Yotsuya 3-chome - Jazz kissaten). 3351-7904
By day it's a laid-back jazz coffeeshop, but in the evening it turns into a mini-jazz club, with a small performance and stage area that seats around fifteen people. The musical direction tends toward the avant-garde and experimental end of the spectrum. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Daikyocho 2-4. Open 3-11:30pm daily.
!Higasa Amagasa (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 3225-0267
Craft sake from small, often obscure, breweries in Nagano Prefecture and elsewhere is the focus at this popular sake specialty bar. Servings are in small-size glasses and sharing is encouraged, so you can try several different types over the course of a meal and compare notes. The staff will be happy to make recommendations (in Japanese), or you can order from the detailed list. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-9-11, Yotsuya Shinko Bldg 7F. Open 5:30pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Waigai (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 6380-4025
Good craft sake and solid Japanese izakaya fare are the draws at this elegant but casual dining bar. The food menu features charcoal-grilled beef and chicken, along with small snacks especially suited to sake. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-8-9, Mitsui Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Mubu (Yotsuya 3-chome - Wine bar). 5367-3361
This rather old-fashioned basement bar is worth mention mainly for their late-night hours. Wine is served by the glass along with tapas-style snacks; budget around Y4000 for food and drink (including Y420 cover charge).
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Funamachi 7, Powaro Bldg B1F. Open 6pm-4am (Sun -2am) daily.
!Dasenka (Yotsuya 3-chome - Czech). 5269-6151
A tiny, bookshelf-lined cafe-bar serving Czech, Polish and other Eastern European fare. Menu items include excellent bramborak potato pancakes, goulash made with beer, Moravian-style roast pork and homemade cornbread. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Funamachi 7, Tajima Bldg 201. Open 6-11:30pm (LO; Mon -10pm) daily.
Fairfax Grill (Yotsuya 3-chome - International). 3353-6540
Innovative Pacific Rim cuisine, convenient late-night hours, friendly service, and a large, well-chosen New World wine list. The atmosphere has the feel of a comfortable neighborhood bistro. The food menu promises adventure, an ever-changing selection with tastes ranging from sea urchin and ikura with green tea noodles to Louisiana shrimp. [Show more]
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Funamachi 8. Open 11am-2am daily.
!Gabisan (Yotsuya 3-chome - Chinese). 3359-2669
Well-prepared Chinese standards and some Szechuan-style noodle dishes, with a mostly neighborhood crowd.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Funamachi 8. (above Fairfax Grill) Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Dodo (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakitori). 3356-8403
Memorable charcoal-grilled yakitori for Y4,000 to Y8,000 per person (with drinks). They've got an interesting sake list, including multiple variations from Kubota and other small brewers.
latemapShinjuku-ku, Funamachi 12. (on Gaien-Higashi-dori) Open 6pm-5am (Sat. to 11pm). Closed Sundays.
Asama (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 3355-2977
The sign outside this old-school sake pub entices with the promise of jizake - local sake - and makes good on that offer. On Friday nights, the crowd consists mainly of beer-drinking salarymen, but Asama is a great place for those who love sake. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-7. Open 5-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Dipmahal (Yotsuya 3-chome - Indian). 3341-9465
Above-average curries and tandoori dishes, at good prices.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-3, Stream Yotsuya 2F. (from Yotsuya 3-chome walk towards Yotsuya sta, take the second left; the shop is on the right a few doors in) Open 11am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
La Taperia (Yotsuya 3-chome - Spanish). 3353-8003
Excellent Spanish cooking, including a good variety of tapas dishes; the spicy lamb kebabs are especially recommended. Service is friendly, and the decor is casual and cheerful, with bright yellow tablecloths, bullfighting posters and Spanish music adding to the atmosphere.
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-3, Stream Yotsuya B1F. (from Yotsuya 3-chome walk towards Yotsuya sta, take the second left; the shop is on the right a few doors in) Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Marumugi (Yotsuya 3-chome - Beer bar). 6380-4745
A tiny (14-seat) second-floor bar specializing in craft beers from around Japan, with an ever-changing selection. The atmosphere is laid-back (there's a muted TV set along with loungey background music), and the crowd is very local. All beers are Y1000 a pint, and there's a limited menu of bar snacks (sausages, cheese) to go along.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 1, Ichibankan Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Imaiya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakitori). 3341-7555, 4588-4276
Hinai-dori - heirloom-breed chicken from Akita Prefecture - is the specialty at this upscale yakitori shop, and the white liver and tebasaki (wings) are especially recommended. They also serve regional dishes like kiritampo. Budget Y5000-7000 at dinnertime, or splurge on a prix-fixe party menu (Y4500-6500).
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Funamachi 4-1, Maison de Yotsuya 1F. Open 5-11:30pm (LO; Fri, Sat -1am) daily.
Carino (Yotsuya 3-chome - Spanish). 3225-6226
"Jamon y vino" is the simple yet enticing concept at this small tapas bar, with Spanish wines starting at around Y3800 per bottle. Typical dishes include Iberico chorizo sausages, Catalan-style pizzas, and grilled meats and seafood on skewers. The food is great, but the pace of delivery can be somewhat leisurely. Budget around Y4000 for food and drink.
latemapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 1, Nakabayashi Bldg 1F. Open 6pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Sundays.
Makotoya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakiton). 6380-0829
Charcoal-grilled pork on skewers is the big draw here, and they serve a good variety of organ meats as well as the usual cuts like pork belly. They prepare some very nice yakitori, and they offer good sake and shochu selections, all at very reasonable prices. The old-school izakaya atmosphere is comfortable, although the air can get a bit smoky at times depending on where you're sitting.
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 1-1. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Deep (Yotsuya 3-chome - Bar). 3351-2393
A quiet neighborhood spot with an impressive collection of jazz and soul music on vinyl, for your listening pleasure. There's a Y500 cover charge.
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 1-2. Open 8pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Incubator (Yotsuya 3-chome - Bar). 5925-8832
It's like a party in a chemistry lab every night at Science Bar Incubator. Drinks are served in beakers and erlenmeyer flasks, food is heated on wire-mesh stands over alcohol lamps, and customers can change into white lab coats for the duration of their visit. A tasting flight of red wine in a test-tube rack makes a cute photo op, as does the biology-lab microscope that's set up at one end of the bar. [Show more]
decormapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 7. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Suzunari (Yotsuya 3-chome - Kaiseki). 3350-1178
This tiny, Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant offers good value for money, with prix-fixe menus starting around Y5000. Counter seats are the best; other areas can get smoky.
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 7. Open 6-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!All That Jazz (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 5379-3663
Nearly thirty well-chosen craft sake from relatively obscure small breweries are on offer at this cozy neighborhood drinking spot. There are also sake-friendly nibbles like grilled dried fish and cured meats - the smoked cheese, fish and meat platter is especialy recommended. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink.
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 9-22, 2F. Open 6pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
Ringo no Hana (Yotsuya 3-chome - Japanese regional). 6380-6724
Aomori Prefecture in Northern Japan produces some very nice sake, and Ringo no Hana is a good place to try it out. Some twenty different types of local craft sake are served either in ichi-go flasks or small 60cc tasting sizes if you want to explore a bigger variety. Adventurous drinkers may also be interested in their fruit- and herb-flavored liqueurs. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 11-24, Arakicho AC Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-1, 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Doromamire (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakitori). 6380-1197
There's a lot of good yakitori to be found in the izakaya-lined alleyways of Arakicho, but Doromamire grills up some of the best. The chicken here is good enough to eat raw, and indeed the shop's chicken sashimi dishes are among our favorites, as are their chicken liver skewers, also served quite rare. Your daily vegetable requirements can be met with appealing side dishes like corn kakiage tempura, with a decent selection of sake to complement your meal. Budget around Y4000-5000 at dinnertime - a bargain for this level of quality.
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 20, Yakata Bldg 2F. Open 6pm-1am (LO; Sat -10pm). Closed Sundays.
Vow's Bar (Yotsuya 3-chome - Bar). 3353-1032
This tiny second-floor bar has a Buddhist theme - the name in Japanese is "bouzu", or Buddhist priest - with a little shrine in one corner and bartenders dressed in appropriate priestly garb. Drinks include several variations on shochu and plum wine, and there's a small food menu to go with your drinks.
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 6-42, AG Bldg 2F. Open 7pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Tribes (Yotsuya 3-chome - African). 070-5366-0092
Formerly located in Kagurazaka, this small neighborhood bar serves a menu of African and African-inspired dishes like cous cous, peanut-chicken stew, and tasty boerewors sausage. Thrill seekers can sample sauteed camel, crocodile steaks and fried beef lung. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 7-14-101, Axas Yotsuya Sanchome 1F. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Tsuruya Vino (Yotsuya 3-chome - Wine bar). 5368-0307
This tiny neighborhood wine bar has the unusual policy of letting you try before you buy - you can take a sip or two of whatever bottles are open before committing to their wine by the glass. The food is also quite good, with game birds and meats in season and numerous smaller dishes if you just want a quick nibble. Budget around Y4000-7000 at dinnertime. [Show more]
latemapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 7-3, Monserrat Yotsuya 1F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Ramukana (Yotsuya 3-chome - Swiss). 6457-4942
Beautiful heirloom vegetables, sourced from small farms all over Japan, are the pride of the kitchen at Ramukana. The menu's centerpiece is a hearty cheese fondue, served with raw vegetables, bread, and optional "toppings" such as the excellent smoked bacon chunks. A couple of nice Swiss house wines are available by the bottle, carafe or glass (Y5000 / Y2600 / Y900), along with reasonably priced French wines starting at Y3500. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 3-10, Dai-3 Halcyon 2F. Open 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Rheingau (Yotsuya 3-chome - German). 3357-2209
One of Tokyo's original German restaurants, Rheingau is so old-school that the sign out front sports a seven-digit phone number. The kitchen does a decent job on Tokyo's favorite German delicacies such as sauerbraten, sausages and the occasional game meats, and the hors d'oeuvre platter is a reliable place to start. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 3-23. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Himonoya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 3359-8088
There's a good selection of sake to go with your grilled himono (dried fish) and other izakaya fare, all at quite reasonable prices. Lunch is served until 4pm.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-2-2, TR Bldg B1F. Open 11am-1am (LO; Sat, Sun -12) daily.
Gooburg (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yoshoku). 3225-5675
Gooburg presents a modern take on the classic yoshoku Hamburg steak, producing both mixed-meat (pork and beef) and 100% beef versions. These are hefty and meaty, lightly browned on the surface but very tender in the middle - so tender that they're served with chopsticks rather than knife and fork. Each "hamburg" is served on a sizzling hot metal plate that arrives with a protective brown-paper wrapper to control splatter. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-7, Sano Bldg 1F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
!Bistro Cinq (Yotsuya 3-chome - French). 3350-4050
First-rate French cuisine and very reasonably priced wines. The setting is rather minimal - old-fashioned coffee-shop decor in a well-used basement space, with just a counter and a few tables. Budget around Y6000-8000 for food and drinks.
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 3-1, Suga Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
La Boqueria (Yotsuya 3-chome - Spanish). 5366-0505
The main draw at La Boqueria is the "wine buffet," an open bar with over a dozen different wines, not top-end but still very drinkable, priced at Y1980 for two hours. The dining room is attractively furnished with unexpectedly large tables and comfortable seating, apparently left over from the upscale Italian restaurant that used to occupy this space. The food is rather hit-or-miss - it's best to stick to very simple dishes like the assorted meat and cheese plates and the quesadillas.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 2-11, Assist Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
Norabutaya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Udon). 5367-2133
The roux at this curry-udon shop is dark brown in color and spicy, with a typical flavor profile that approaches the Platonic ideal of Japanese curry. There's a bowl of thick, syrupy spicy sauce on the table if you want to add some extra heat. But what makes Norabutaya stand out from the crowd is the quirky selection of toppings that accompany the udon noodles - grilled chicken, chicken tempura, cheese, potato croquettes, and fried oysters among them. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 2-11, Daimura Bldg 1F. Open 11am-2:30, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.

Akebonobashi, Ushigome-Yanagicho

!Chez Le Mak (Akebonobashi - French). 5315-4450
Modern, upscale bistro fare served in a casual setting is the draw at this neighborhood French spot. The owner-chef trained at La Regalade, the original Paris "neo-bistro," and Parisian bistronomic appreciation of top-quality, high-end ingredients is certainly reflected here. For example, our dinner menu offered Iberico as well as domestic roast pork, along with four different dishes featuring foie gras. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 15, Sun Chateau 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Faith (Akebonobashi - Sandwiches/ burgers). 6661-3353
Charcoal-grilled gourmet burgers and sandwiches can be ordered for delivery within most of Shinjuku and Chiyoda wards. Sandwiches are priced Y980-1500, with a line-up of Cajun Smoked Chicken; Reuben; Pastrami; Shrimp Avocado and ten more varieties. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 16, Espero Bldg 101. Open 11:30am-3, 5-8pm. Closed Sundays, Tuesdays.
Ebiden (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 3353-2990
Good tempura at reasonable prices at this unpretentious neighborhood shop. The tempura teishoku is Y1890, full-course dinners are Y2940, and fancy kaiseki menus start at Y5250. Lunch starts at Y680, with a deluxe tempura teishoku going for Y1260.
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Sakamachi 15. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Deep Sagar (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3353-1799
Good budget Indian curries at this modest neighborhood shop, with take-out bentos from Y550 at lunchtime.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Katamachi 1-2, Dai-Asia Bldg 1F. Open 11am-3:30, 5-10pm daily.
Tashi Delek (Akebonobashi - Tibetan). 6457-7255
Budget-friendly Tibetan and Indian dishes are served at this relaxed neighborhood shop. Lunch is around Y1000, while dinner with drinks runs around Y2500.
mapShinjuku-ku, Sakamachi 26-21. Open 11am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Yoshiura (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3357-6680
Still going strong after seventy years, Yoshiura exudes a classic old-school izakaya charm that's hard to match. They draw a loyal neighborhood crowd with their reasonably priced sake (mostly well-known premium brands like Kubota and Denshu) and good sashimi and other izakaya fare. Budget around Y4000 for food and drink. (No English menus or service.)
mapShinjuku-ku, Katamachi 5. Open 5-11:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Kamiya (Akebonobashi - Japanese). 3351-4357
Fugu is the wintertime specialty here, with fugu-centric prix-fixe dinners starting at Y10,000, with sake or wine to drink. Soba lunches with tempura and/or sashimi are priced Y1260-3150.
mapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 7-1, Fukumatsu Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Akiyama (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 5269-6093
Udon noodles and decent izakaya fare are served until late at night at this neighbhorhood drinking spot. Open until 11pm Saturdays, 2am on weeknights (LO).
latemapShinjuku-ku, Arakicho 23-15. Open 5pm-2am (LO). Closed Sundays.
Shoji (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 5379-3557
One of the specialties of the house at this first-rate tempura counter is anago, served with a tasty golden-brown coating that's thicker than average and satisfyingly crunchy. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5,000, Y7,000 and Y10,000, with reasonably priced sake and wines to accompany your meal. Voluminous deluxe donburi lunches are a bargain at Y1700-2000.
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 2-18, Win Yotsuya 2F. Open 11:30am-1, 6-8:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Siddique (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3358-8100
Reliable budget curries to take out or eat in at this branch of the popular budget Indian chain. Lunch service until 5pm.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 2-9. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Spice (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3356-3626
Good Indian curries, tandoori items and Nepalese starters and side dishes. The momo dumplings are better than average, and the Indian Salad is impressively spicy. Budget around Y2000-2500 at dinnertime; set meals (with rice or nan) start at around Y1100.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Aizumicho 19-13. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Golden Bagan (Akebonobashi - Burmese). 6380-5752
Burmese cuisine prepared by a staff of native chefs from Myanmar. Budget around Y2500 at dinnertime.
mapShinjuku-ku, Tomihisacho 8-20. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
A Demain (Akebonobashi - French). 3353-6708
A very casual neighborhood French spot, with good vegetable dishes and some game birds in season. Budget around Y3000-5000 for dinner with drinks. No lunch on Thursdays
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Ichigaya-Daimachi 4-1. Open noon-2, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
!Abuzo (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3341-3214
A cozy neighborhood izakaya, Abuzo specializes in charcoal-grilled beef, pork, chicken and ocean trout, with a decent sake list alongside. The white chicken livers, fresh every day, are a revelation, as is the grilled vegetable salad. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 8-20. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Kurachan (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3357-6407
A quiet, extremely unpretentious neighborhood drinking spot, Kurachan sports a classic old-school izakaya decor and serves an interesting selection of craft sake along with excellent grilled chicken. We've found it most advantageous to discuss our sake preferences with the staff and follow their suggestions, although there is chalkboard menu listing their regular offerings (all in Japanese). Some food highlights include their unusual natto karaage and some excellent ume-shiso tebasaki. Budget around Y5000.
mapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 10-11. Open 6-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Comida (Akebonobashi - Bar). 3356-6543
This neighborhood bar attracts a crowd of regulars with their inexpensive shochu and beer (from Y300 per glass) and good selection of tapas-style dishes.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 8-10, Lion's Mansion Ichigaya 1F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-11pm daily.
!Gachi (Akebonobashi - Ramen). 6380-4874
There's no better way to enjoy amazing, housemade ramen noodles than in a bowl of abura soba. Literally meaning oil-noodles, abura soba leaves the soup out, with only some tare seasoning, oils, and toppings. Gachi, part of the Mensho ramen group, has a noodle factory in the back. Depending on the time you go, you might see someone back there feeding sheets of dough through the noodle machine, prepping for the next day. [Show more]
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 7-10. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
!Garni (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Japanese). 6457-4145
Yakiton (charcoal-grilled pork on skewers) is the main dish here, but instead of a smoky izakaya the atmosphere is closer to a stylish wine bar, with a selection of wines by the glass (Y680-1000) to go with your skewers - a great combination. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Ichigaya Nakanomachi 4-28. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Tuesdays.
Ogasawaratei (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Spanish). 3359-5830
Elegant, high-end Spanish food in rather grand surroundings - the former residence of Count Ogasawara. Lunch from Y7000, full-course dinners from Y9000, not including wine.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Kawadacho 10-10. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9pm (LO) daily.
!Aguri (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Teppanyaki). 3353-7292
Excellent grilled seasonal vegetables share top billing with the grilled meats at this charming neighborhood teppanyaki restaurant. There are pork-stuffed giant mushrooms, asparagus with cheese and basil, nicely charred bamboo shoots with thick slabs of bacon, shiitake shumai dumplings, grilled eggplant with shrimp and sudachi, grilled broccoli with bacon and garlic - over twenty vegetable dishes in total. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Kawadacho 10-7, Green Hills Kawadacho 1F. Open 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Yakuoji Cafe (Ushigome-Yanigicho - Coffee shop). 3269-0575
An artsy little neighborhood cafe serving espresso beverages, drip coffee of the day, and matcha. Lunches run Y500-1000, and they also roast their own beans, on sale from Y450/100g.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Ichigaya Yakuojicho 66. Open 8:30am-8pm (Sun 11:30-7). Closed Saturdays.
L'Habitude (Ushigome-Yanigicho - French). 3260-8784
A classic French neighborhood restaurant, with good, meaty fare and casual bistro-style seating at small tables. Three-course prix-fixe menus are Y2940, or Y1050 at lunchtime for two courses. Wines, mainly from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Languedoc-Roussillon, are quite reasonable, with a good number of bottles in the Y3000-5000 range and 500ml decanters available for many of them.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Minami-Yamabushi-cho 3-5. (on Okubo-dori) Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.


!Shinobu (Yotsuya - Japanese). 3355-6338
We've tried our share of beef tongue - a culinary specialty of the Sendai area - and this unprentious Yotsuya izakaya serves some of the best that we've ever had. It's not exactly a secret though - there's almost always a line outside, so call ahead to reserve your spot. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Saneicho 16. Open 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Cruz Burgers (Yotsuya - Burgers). 6457-7706
Burgers and craft beers are on the menu here, with five taps dispensing beers from breweries like Lagunitas, Brewdog and Kikuchi (Hitachi no Nest), plus one tap for cider. The burgers are around average for Tokyo; the most interesting may be their "Green" burger which is topped with spinach, arugula and mozzarella (Y1380). Beers are priced around Y1000-1250 per pint, and come in three sizes.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Saneicho 6. Open 11am-2:30, 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Floche (Yotsuya - Rabbit cafe). 5341-4248
Basically a rabbit pet shop and pet hotel, Floche has set up a tiny cafe area where you can enjoy a coffee break with rabbits in the background. If you want more interaction, there's a playroom area where you can feed and play with one rabbit at a time, and exchange rabbits whenever you like. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-22-12, KR Bldg 2F. Open noon-7pm. Closed weekdays.
Eagle (Yotsuya - Jazz kissaten). 3357-9857
Boasting a big collection of vinyl, an impressive sound system and humongous JBL speakers, Eagle has a certain old-school jazz-kissaten charm, as long as you don't mind the cigarette smoke. In the afternoons it's "quiet time," when you're encouraged to refrain from talking while listening to the music over a strong cup of coffee (Y680) or a snack (quiche, cake, or chili along with a cup of coffee, from Y800). [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-8-4, Horinaka Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-midnight. Closed Sundays and holidays.
Okagesan (Yotsuya - Izakaya). 3355-8100
The sake selection at this Michelin-starred izakaya is pretty impressive, and the food is above average, but not quite good enough to justify the prices. Prix-fixe menus are the only option, and they start at Y5000. Seating is cramped, but service is friendly and the non-smoking policy improves things a bit. [Show more]
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 2-10, Matsumotokan B1F. Open 6-10:15pm (LO). Closed Sundays, Mondays.
G7 Craft Beer Highball (Yotsuya - Bar). 5366-5865
Comfortably furnished, stylishly decorated and open very late, G7 is aiming for a wider target audience than the typical Tokyo craft-beer bar. The food menu is more ambitious too, with original ham and sausage platters and aged beef dishes as well as dining-bar standards like bagna cauda, pastas and ajillo variations. [Show more]
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-24, Mitsui Garden Hotel B1F. Open 5pm-3am (LO; Sun -10:30) daily.
!Salsa Cabana Bar (Yotsuya - Tex-Mex). 3225-1774
The food here is very nicely prepared, and in spite of the simplicity of items like tacos and enchiladas, somehow tastes more Mexican regional than Tex-Mex. Our swordfish tacos had a lot of big flavors, although our nachos needed a bit of extra heat to bring out their best. [Show more]
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-20-9. Open 11:30am-2, 5pm-1:30am (LO) daily.
!Romina (Yotsuya - Peruvian). 3226-6608
Brilliant Peruvian food and drinks at relatively inexpensive prices. For variety, they also serve a smattering of dishes from all across Latin America. Try their vanilla flan for dessert, if you still have room. There's also a big lunch menu. (Avoid Sunday nights if you don't like big crowds.)
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-7-27, Central Yotsuya Bldg. 2F. Open 5-11pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Yotsuya Brewery (Yotsuya - Belgian rest/beer bar). 3353-1009
No, despite the name this isn't a brewpub, simply a small neighborhood bar with a decent selection of Belgian beers on tap and by the bottle. Prices are around average, and opening hours are relatively late.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-8, Nakagawa Bldg 1F. Open 5pm-1am (LO; Fri -4am; Sat, Sun -11) daily.
Kuraya (Yotsuya - Soba). 3356-7571
A sake and soba restaurant, Kuraya serves soba made from 90% buckwheat, supplemented by simple izakaya fare like grilled fish and chicken, and tofu and yuba dishes. The sake is from well-known regional breweries like Tengumai, Kubota and Ichinokura, and there are also a few sake-based fruit liqueurs. Budget around Y2800 at dinnertime.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-4-2. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:30pm (Sat, Sun -10:30) daily.
Vivo Daily Stand (Yotsuya - Bar). 3354-8838
The Vivo chain of casual wine bars offers good food and decent wines at budget-friendly prices. This conveniently located second-floor branch overlooks Yotsuya station.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-3-15, Komine Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-2am daily.
Wagokoro (Yotsuya - Izakaya). 3357-6556
Forty brands of craft sake, all priced at a reasonable Y800 per ichigo flask, are offered at this small neighborhood sake specialist. The supporting food menu is quite reliable, with lots of seasonal vegetables and well-prepared meat and seafood items - our grilled shishamo was some of the best we've ever tasted. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-3, 2F. Open 5pm-midnight daily.
!Takeda (Yotsuya - Tonkatsu). 3357-6004
This lively neighborhood shop does a brisk business both day and night, so it might be a good idea to avoid peak lunch and dinner hours if you don't want to wait. In addition to doing excellent tonkatsu, in both regular and premium grades, the kitchen also turns out deep-fried prawns, oysters, fish and chicken. One of the most popular items is a combo platter of menchi-katsu (ground-pork patties) and croquettes. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-4-2. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Ippoippo (Yotsuya - Izakaya). 6273-1669
Deep-fried kushiage skewers and gyukatsu (beef cutlet) are matched with assertive sakes at this casual baaement izakaya. Kushiage items, representing a range of seasonal seafood and vegetables, are well prepared, the vegetables crisp and fresh-tasting, the coatings crunchy and free of oiliness. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-20, Koizumi Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Fuku no Hana (Yotsuya - Japanese regional). 3351-0949
Regional cuisine, local sake and shochu from Yamaguchi Prefecture are served at this friendly after-work izakaya. The menu features premium-quality heirloom-breed chicken, Takamori beef, locally caught seafood and seasonal vegetables, all brought in fresh from Yamaguchi. The charcoal-grilled section of the menu is especially recommended. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-9, Miyake Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:15pm (LO) daily.
Suzuden (Yotsuya - Liquor shop). 3351-1777
A well-stocked sake specialty store; don't miss the refrigerated rooms down in the basement. There's also a stand-up bar in back with around a dozen sake by the glass along with simple, inexpensive bar food (weeknights only).
mapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-10. Open 9am-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Hotel de Mikuni (Yotsuya - French). 3351-3810
A legendary old-school Tokyo French restaurant that's been here forever. Lunch from Y6,000, dinner from Y14,000.
mapShinjuku-ku, Wakaba 1-18. Open noon-1:30, 6-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Paul (Yotsuya - Cafe). 5368-8823
Good pastries and plenty of outdoor seating.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-5-25, Atre Yotsuya 2F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Paul (bakery) (Yotsuya - Bakery). 5368-8823
European-style bread, pastries, and a big assortment of sandwiches to go.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 1-5-25, Atre Yotsuya 2F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm daily.
Manuel Casa de Fado (Yotsuya - Portuguese). 5276-2432
This second branch of Tokyo's Portuguese pioneer restaurant is far more upscale than the Shibuya original, with spacious, comfortable dining rooms (smoking and non) a bigger, more serious menu, and a sommelier. Recommendations include the rabbit stewed in red wine and the potato and dried cod croquettes. The wine list includes both "traditional" and "international" Portuguese wines, depending on your tastes (we prefer the latter). Budget Y5,000-8,000 for dinner, depending on your choice of drinks. There's live folk music some nights - call to check. [Go to branch review]
SunmapChiyoda-ku, Rokubancho 11-7, B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
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