Ueno/ Asakusa/ Oshiage

Ueno

Afternoon Tea (Ueno - Cafe). 5826-5810
Light, casual meals are served all day starting from 10am (an hour earlier than most other restaurants in the neighborhood). One of our favorites is the vegetable and chicken platter - an assortment of grilled and steamed seasonal vegetables served with grilled chicken, bread, and a pot of tea (Y1386). There's also a good selection of desserts suitable for a mid-afternoon break.
SunmapUeno 7-1-1, Atre 1F. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Brasserie L'ecrin (Ueno - French). 5826-5822
If you're stuck in the station and in the mood for traditional French, dinners here start at Y3800. There's also a separate take-out pastry shop.
SunmapUeno 7-1-1, Atre 1F. Open 11am-10:30pm daily.
Vinuls (Ueno - Spanish). 5826-5753
Spanish food and reasonably priced French and Spanish wines, with convenient late-night hours. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink at dinnertime. (From the same management as the Aux Amis des Vins chain of French wine bars.)
lateSunmapUeno 7-1-1, Atre 1F. Open 11am-4:30am daily.
Coca (Ueno - Thai). 5826-5825
Thai sukiyaki (although for some reason it's known as Cantonese sukiyaki at Coca branches in Thailand), plus assorted dim sum dishes.
SunmapUeno 7-1-1, Atre 2F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Konaya (Ueno - Soba/Udon). 5826-5863
Oddly compelling udon noodles in curry-flavored broth, served with shrimp tempura, bananas or mochi (rice cakes).
SunmapUeno 7-1-1, Atre 2F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Wired Cafe Atre Ueno (Ueno - Cafe). 5826-5803
Coffee, wireless internet access and good food from the popular Wired Cafe chain. Located in a basement corridor next to Ueno station's Retro Gate, this oddly laid-out shop features a cozy balcony area.
SunmapUeno 7-1-1, Atre B1F. Open 8am-11pm daily.
Oto Oto (Ueno - Japanese). 5807-2244
Nicely prepared seasonal izakaya fare, including a selection of local Kyoto "banzai-ryori." Part of the Bamboo Garden restaurant complex, the dining room is decorated to resemble a bamboo grove. Full-course dinners from Y5000, plus plenty of reasonably priced a la carte items. Lunch is served until 4:30pm.
SunmapUeno Koen 1-52, Bamboo Garden 2F. Open 11am-11:30pm daily.
Tsukada Nojo (Ueno - Japanese regional). 5812-9229
First-rate Miyazaki chicken dishes, regional Kyushu fare and local shochu brands are the specialties at this reasonably priced, unpretentious Miyazaki-based izakaya chain. Budget around Y3000-4000 for dinner with drinks. [Go to branch review]
SunmapUeno 2-12-23, U-One Bldg 4F. Open 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Odako (Ueno - Oden). 3836-4906
Top-quality Kansai-style oden - not only does Ohdako have some of the most delicious oden in Tokyo, they have the good sense to serve with it some of the finest sakes available. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapUeno 2-3-1. Open 5:30-11pm daily.
Kurofunetei (Ueno - Yoshoku). 3837-1617
For the past 10 years the order of business at Kurofunetei has been yoshoku - elegant renditions of hearty Japanese-Western classics. Yoshoku's origins lie in the Meiji era, when Japanese chefs began creating their own versions of Western cuisine, producing now-classic dishes such as omuraisu (a fried-rice omelet - nowadays dressed with a generous dollop of ketchup, courtesy of the post-war inrush of American products). [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapUeno 2-13-13, Kikuya Bldg 4F. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
Murachin (Ueno - Retail). 3834-6666
Raw ingredients and packaged goods from China, Korea and southeast Asia, including fresh vegetables from Thailand two or three times a week. They're in the basement of the Ameyoko Center Building, the large triangular building near the northern end of the Ameyoko arcade, under the train tracks south of Ueno station. Next to Murachin in the same basement are two other shops, Arai and Nozawaya, with similar items for sale.
SunmapUeno 4-7-8, Ameyoko Center Building B1F. Open 10am-8pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Washita (Ueno - Antenna shop). 5818-1592
Local food and drink products from tropical Okinawa are sold at this prefectural antenna shop. One whole aisle is devoted to teas, with exotic choices like guava, turmeric, goya (bitter melon), and yomogi; many teas are also sold in ready-to-drink 330ml bottles. [Show more]
SunmapUeno 4-9-2.
Zanmai (Ueno - Sushi). 5807-6543
This convenient 24-hour branch of the popular Tsukiji-based budget sushi chain offers good value for money.
lateSunmapUeno 2-7-12. Open 24 hours a day.
Daichi no Okurimono (Ueno - Japanese). 3836-2640
There's something self-indulgent and luxurious about an all-you-can-eat buffet, but a natural-foods buffet on the other hand seems positively virtuous - "Eat what you want - it's all good for you." The real fun of a buffet, though, is being able to try lots of different flavors without having to decide what to order, and the spread here offers ample variety. [Show more]
SunmapUeno 1-20-11, Suzunoya Bldg 4F. Open 11am-4, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
Ume no Hana (Ueno - Tofu). 3834-7712
A tofu and yuba specialty restaurant with branches throughout Japan. Full-course dinners range from Y3,600; lunch from Y1,900. Take-out bento are also available. [Go to branch review]
SunmapUeno 1-20-11, Suzunoya Bldg 5F. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm (LO) daily.
Imahan (Ueno - Nabemono). 5688-0754
Sukiyaki and shabu-shabu made from Ohmi beef. Shabu-shabu from Y5500, kaiseki from Y12,000.
SunmapUeno 1-20-11, Suzunoya Bldg 6F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Hokuhan (Ueno - Japanese regional). 3831-8759
Tohoku-style fish and other dishes. Prices tend to add up rather quickly, but the food is always top quality.
mapUeno 6-7-10. Open 5-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Iwateya (Ueno - Japanese regional). 3836-9588
Reasonably priced food from Iwate Prefecture, along with local sake and shochu brands.
mapYushima 3-38-8. Open 4-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Daiki (Ueno - Ramen). 3834-0348
The very popular ramen shop Daiki is known for their tasty chicken-based soup, available in both shio (salt) or shoyu (soy sauce) varieties. The "torisoba" option indicates a pure chicken-stock soup, although this option tends to sell out quickly.
mapYushima 3-47-2. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-10pm. Closed Sundays.

Nearby

Hanamasa (Okachimachi - Retail). 5687-2987
Relatively inexpensive meats and produce, 24 hours a day.
SunmapKojima 2-18-18. Open 24 hours a day.
Tamaya (Okachimachi - Bar). 5812-4345
Tamaya has all the makings of a great neighborhood wine bar: a lively but relaxed atmosphere, a well-chosen selection of reasonably priced wines; and tasty, tapas-sized dishes. The only problem is getting in. The bar, which can accommodate a mere 28, is so popular that it can be hard to get a seat without a reservation. [Show more]
mapUeno 1-10-10. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Ippudo (Okachimachi - Ramen). 5807-2772
A branch of the famous Hakata ramen chain, featuring thin, slightly chewy noodles in a pork-based broth ("red" or "white"), with or without extra chashu. You can add your own freshly grated garlic.
lateSunmapUeno 3-17-5. Open 11am-3am daily.
Ringer Hut (Okachimachi - Japanese regional). 5807-1045
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
lateSunmapUeno 6-8-5. Open 10am-2am (Sat, Sun -10pm) daily.
Hanamasa (Negishi) (Taito-ku - Retail). 6802-2941
Relatively inexpensive meats and produce, 24 hours a day.
SunmapTaito-ku, Negishi 4-17-12. Open 24 hours a day.
Hanamasa (Senzoku) (Taito-ku - Retail). 5824-1293
Relatively inexpensive meats and produce, 24 hours a day.
SunmapTaito-ku, Senzoku 3-10-2. Open 24 hours a day.
Shinanoji (Uguisudani - Izakaya). 3875-7456
Simple teishoku dishes and other budget Japanese dining, 24 hours a day, at this old-fashioned izakaya in front of Uguisudani station.
lateSunmapNegishi 1-7-4. Open 24 hours a day.
Sasa no Yuki (Uguisudani - Tofu). 3873-1145
This venerable old tofu specialist (dating back to 1691) stands in a rather nondescript neighborhood about a 15-minute walk from the north end of Ueno Park. Multi-course meals feature tofu in all its variations, starting from around Y2000 for lunch and Y4200 for dinner, with some vegetarian options available.
SunmapNegishi 2-15-10. Open 11:30am-8pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
!Bon (Iriya - Shojin-ryori). 3872-0375
Beautifully prepared temple cuisine. Lunch/dinner ranges from 7,000 - 10,000 yen.
decorSunmapRyusen 1-2-11. Open from noon and from 5pm. Closed Tuesdays.

Asakusa

23 Banchi Cafe (Asakusa - Brewpub). 5608-3831
This casual cafe is run by Asahi Beer, on the grounds of their Philippe Starck-designed headquarters. Drinks include coffees, wine, and various Asahi and Asahi-imported beers, including three microbrews from the on-premises Sumidagawa Brewery. There's a fairly random cafe-style food menu - fried and grilled free-range chicken, Mexican pizza, chorizo sausages and keema curry. Dogs are welcome out on the wooden-deck terrace, where food and water are available.
SunmapAzumabashi 1-23-36, Annex Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-11pm daily.
Azumabashi (Asakusa - Brewpub). 5608-3832
Run by Asahi Beer and adjacent to their Philippe Starck-designed world headquarters building, this brewpub serves a couple of seasonal microbrews from their Sumidagawa Brewery, plus some unusual Asahi-branded beers. The food menu is typical German-influenced fare - eisbein (Y3500), sausages, roast chicken, cheese fondue and various snacks.
SunmapAzumabashi 1-23-36, Annex Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm daily.
Harmonic (Asakusa - Belgian rest/beer bar). 5608-3833
This Asahi Beer-run restaurant features several Asahi-imported Belgian beers (Hoegaarden, Leffe, Stella Artois) plus a few microbrews from the on-premises Sumidagawa Brewery. Food includes various sausages and pates, mussels, frites, and other typical Belgian bar fare. Budget around Y3000 for food and a few drinks.
SunmapAzumabashi 1-23-36, Annex Bldg 3F. Open 11:30am-2, 4-10:30pm daily.
Kamiya Bar (Asakusa - Bar). 3841-5400
Founded in 1880, this historic bar is best known as the originator of Denki Bran ("electric brandy"), a strangely compelling, rather sweet brandy-like liquor that's used in a variety of cocktails served here. Cheap prices and communal tables encourage a very interactive bar experience.
SunmapAsakusa 1-1-1. Open 11:30am-10pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Ichibanya (Asakusa - Retail). 3842-5001
The Ichibanya shop sells over a hundred varieties of sembei, with exotic flavors like garlic, wasabi, hot pepper, shiso, plum, seaweed and many more. You'll even find shrimp, bonito, cod roe and other seafood surprises. [See photo feature.]
SunmapAsakusa 1-31-1. Open 9am-7pm daily.
Yumeya (Asakusa - Curry). 3841-1681
This rather unpretentious shop may not win any awards for their decor, but they serve up very good Indo-style Japanese curries and credible naans. A curry set with rice or naan (and Japanese curry-shop pickles) will run around Y1100; Y200 extra to super-size your curry portion.
no smokingSunmapAsakusa 1-35-8. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-8pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Bar Six (Asakusa - Bar). 5806-5106
Located at the top of the very cultural Amuse Museum, Bar Six offers a nice evening view of the illuminated pagoda and temple buildings of nearby Sensoji Temple. Weather permitting, the outdoor terrace seats offer the best view. Drinks include cocktails and a few Belgian beers, and the casual food menu includes tasty snacks like fried chicken.
lateSunmapAsakusa 2-34-4, Amuse Museum 6F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Mondays.
Ringer Hut (Asakusa - Japanese regional). 5826-7362
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
lateSunmapHanakawado 1-2-5, Asakusa KS Bldg. Open 11am-2am (Sat, Sun -10pm) daily.
Komagata Dojo (Asakusa - Unagi). 3842-4001
This famous old shop specializes in dojo (a small eel-like fish), with full-course dinners from Y3800. They also offer a half-dozen variations of traditionally prepared whale meat. Seating is on tatami mats in a big central dining area.
SunmapKomagata 1-7-12. Open 11am-9pm daily.
Zanmai (Asakusa - Sushi). 5826-1375
Good value for money and a wide selection of fish at this convenient 24-hour branch of the famous Tsukiji-based sushi shop.
no smokinglateSunmapAsakusa 1-3-6. Open 24 hours a day.
Namiki (Asakusa - Soba/Udon). 3841-1340
Established in 1913, this well-known soba shop serves up noodles in a traditional setting, with cobblestoned floors and some tatami-mat seating, supplemented by big tables that are shared when it gets crowded. The tenzaru (Y1700) includes a tray of noodles and a hefty portion of plump, nicely fried shrimp tempura. When 5pm rolls around the restaurant starts to fill up with long-time local residents, plus the occasional tourist. English-language menus available.
SunmapKaminarimon 2-11-9. Open 11:30am-7:30pm. Closed Thursdays.
Marugoto Hokkaido Kaminarimon (Asakusa - Antenna shop). 3842-0510
One of several shops in Tokyo specializing in Hokkaido food products, this antenna shop sells fresh potatoes and onions, dried scallop snacks, frozen fish, instant ramen, chicken soup-curry, and assorted dairy products. There's a big kombu corner, and frozen crabs range from Y3800-7800 depending on size.
SunmapKaminarimon 2-12-10. Open 10am-6pm daily.
Hatsuogawa (Asakusa - Unagi). 3844-2723
The eel here is prepared the old-fashioned way, beginning once you've placed your order, and it's grilled quite thoroughly to complement the rich fattiness of the fish. The eel-liver clear soup (Y50 extra) is delectable - smoky but still delicately flavored. Budget around Y2300 for a basic lunch or dinner. (No lunch on Sundays.) [Show more]
SunmapKaminarimon 2-8-4. Open noon-2, 5-8pm daily.
Que Bom (Asakusa - Brazilian). 5826-1538
The Y3000 churrasco buffet at this lively music bar features fifteen different Brazilian delicacies - grilled beef, pork and chicken, linguica sausage, and feijoada black-bean stew among them. Wash it all down with caipirinha and other Brazilian cocktails and wines. Check the calendar of live music and art exhibitions on their website (que-bom.com).
SunmapNishi-Asakusa 2-15-13 B1F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO). Closed Mondays.
Campion Ale (Asakusa - Brewpub). 6231-6554
Five British-style ales on tap, all brewed on premises at this small brewpub. Prices are Y800 for pints and Y500 for half-pints. Food includes shepherd's pie, meat pies and beef stew. Open from noon on weekends.
SunmapNishi-Asakusa 2-2-2. Open 5-11pm daily.
Oiwake (Asakusa - Izakaya). 3844-6283
This izakaya has three shows per night of traditional shamisen performance, with a Y2000 music charge. The food and drink are standard izakaya fare.
SunmapNishi-Asakusa 3-28-11. Open 5:30-midnight. Closed Mondays.

Oshiage (Skytree)

Tokyo Curry-ya Meitenkai (Oshiage - Curry). 5610-3012
Five of the most popular Japanese curry shops in Tokyo's Kanda area have gotten together to create this casual shop where you can try their curries individually or in various combinations. A set of all five curries is priced at Y2600.
no smokingSunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 1F East Yard 26. Open 10am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Kua 'Aina (Oshiage - Burgers). 5610-7188
Big fat burgers and mahi-mahi sandwiches from the famous Hawaiian burger chain.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 1F East Yard 39. Open 10am-10pm daily.
Hasegawa Saketen (Oshiage - Liquor shop). 5610-2770
The Skytree branch of one of Tokyo's better sake retailers.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 1F East Yard 47. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Be a Good Neighbor Coffee Kiosk (Oshiage - Coffee shop). 5619-1692
Great espresso and drip coffee from the oddly named Harajuku-based coffee shop Be A Good Neighbor. Wintertime drinks also include hot cocoa, hot lemonade and flavored teas, with pastries to go with.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 2F East Yard 81. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Masuya (Oshiage - Retail). 5809-7560
Masuya - the name simply means "salt shop" - serves up an amazing variety of artisanal salts, flavored salts and bath salts from across Japan and around the world.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 4F East Yard. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Tochimaru Shop (Oshiage - Antenna shop). 5809-7280
More than seventy kinds of local sake are on sale at this large Tochigi prefectural retail shop, along with ciders (apple, pear and strawberry), eight craft beers (Preston and Utsunomiya), and wines. Food specialties include yuba, yuba miso, frozen gyoza dumplings, smoked tofu, fresh ramen, ayu (sweetfish) in a pouch, and fresh asparagus, okra and ginger.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 4F East Yard. Open 10am-9pm daily.
100% Chocolate Cafe (Oshiage - Cafe). 6658-4376
This gorgeous cafe, created by Tokyo design studio Wonderwall, has an open kitchen where you can watch chocolates being made. Hot chocolates are served in the cafe section, and the take-out counter serves up chocolate pastries to go.
no smokingdecorSunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 4F East Yard 9. Open 9am-10pm daily.
Tonya Kokubu (Oshiage - Attraction). 5610-2892
Run by a 300-year-old trading and canned-foods company, this free mini-museum and showroom focuses on Japanese food-packaging design over the past 100 years, showing off design classics like Akebono-brand salmon's red-and-white striped can (1910), Morinaga milk caramels (1914), and S&B Curry (1954). [Show more]
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 5F East Yard. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Amara (Oshiage - Indian). 5809-7161
If you're in the mood for Indian food at Skytree, this is the place. The Solamachi Set, with vegetable and shrimp curries, salad, kebab, nan and yogurt, is Y1580.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Bincho (Oshiage - Unagi). 5619-5757
Excellent Nagoya-style grilled unagi eel is served here, grilled over the finest binchotan charcoal and served with their own special low-salt tamari sauce. Hitsumabushi (a traditional Nagoya serving style) menus are Y3,150-9,700; regular eel donburi starts at Y2,380.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Rikyu (Oshiage - Yoshoku). 5610-2855
Good charcoal-grilled beef tongue from this Sendai-based chain. You'll also find beef-tongue curries, stews, sausages and other yoshoku-style dishes, along with regional sake from Miyagi Prefecture. [Go to branch review]
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Toriton (Oshiage - Sushi). 5637-7716
Fresh fish and good cost performance at this Hokkaido-based conveyor-belt sushi spot. The lines may be long but they move quickly.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Rokurinsha (Oshiage - Ramen). 5809-7368
This very popular shop is known for their tsukemen, served with a thick, richly flavored dipping sauce made with pork, seafood and vegetables. Prepare to wait on line during busy times.
no smokingSunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard 17. Open 10:30am-11pm daily.
Maekawa (Oshiage - Unagi). 5610-3099
Tokyo-style grilled eel from a Komagata-based shop. Unagi donburi starts at Y4050 for lunch or dinner.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 7F East Yard. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Sekai no Beer Hakubutsukan (Oshiage - Beer bar). 5610-2648
Rather than trying to represent the entire world, the "World Beer Museum" narrows its focus to brews from five beer-producing countries - Belgium, Germany, the UK, Czech Republic and the US - along with a "world food" menu of representative dishes from those same countries. Choose from 15-20 beers on draft, or another 150 by the bottle. Prices are a tad higher than average, but not outrageously so, given the location. [Show more]
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 7F East Yard 2. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Super Dry (Oshiage - Beer bar). 5637-9031
In addition to their flagship beer, this popular Asahi-run pub pours a rotating roster of draft beers like Leffe, Bass Pale Ale and Hoegaarden; they also serve several varieties of Leffe by the bottle. There's an inexpensive menu of pub food to accompany your drinks.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 30F East Yard. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Brasserie Aux Amis (Oshiage - French). 5809-7477
A tourist-friendly outlet of the popular upscale French wine-bar chain. Prix-fixe lunches are priced Y2,800-Y9,800, dinners Y6,500-Y11,000.
no smokingSunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 30F East Yard 2. Open 11am-3, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Kunimi (Oshiage - Tofu). 5809-7100
Tofu-based kaiseki cuisine, accompanied by a close-up view of Tokyo Skytree. A lunchtime bento is Y2835, and kaiseki service is Y5250-12600.
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 31F East Yard. Open 10am-10pm (LO) daily.
Kitano Ace (Oshiage - Retail). 5608-1757
Located in the middle of the very impressive food hall inside Solamachi shopping mall, Kitano Ace carries some rather specialized products, including 400 different pouch curries from shops all over Japan. [Show more]
SunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Solamachi West Yard 2F (Food Marche). Open 10am-9pm daily.
Rigoletto (Oshiage - Italian). 5809-7401
Rotisserie chicken is the highlight of the menu at this Spanish-Italian chain restaurant. Open until 4am, Rigoletto is one of the few late-night choices in the neighborhood. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime.
lateSunmapOshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 2F East Yard. Open 11am-4am (-11pm Sun) daily.
!Spice Cafe (Oshiage - Indian). 3613-4020
The chef here is a veteran of a hotel restaurant in Kerala, in southern India, and the chef's menu (Y3500) includes three Indian curries along with European-style appetizers and three desserts. Wine starts at Y2000/bottle or Y450/glass, and there's also cider, Calvados, grappa and other unexpected drink choices. The set lunch is Y950. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapSumida-ku, Bunka 1-6-10. Open 11:45am-2, 2-4, 6-10pm. Closed Mon, 3rd Tue.
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