Sobu-sen (west)


!Ringodo (Ramen). 3362-1173
Excellent miso ramen.
mapNakano-ku, Higashi-Nakano 1-31-8. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm. Closed Sundays.
!Pao (Middle Eastern). 3371-3750
We love it when restaurants improve with age, and the food at Pao has gotten noticeably better over time. It was always a fun destination - you sit on thick carpets at tiny tables while listening to great music from Afghanistan and environs - and it attracts a young and hip crowd. The menu focuses on the cuisines of northern Pakistan and Afghanistan - the area around Peshawar to be exact - and native chefs prepare excellent kebabs, lamb dishes, and a variety of spicy stews (called karahi). The grilled haloumi, garlicky stir-fried lettuce and grilled tomatoes make nice starters.
SunmapNakano-ku, Higashi-Nakano 2-25-6. Open 6pm-midnight (LO 10:45). Closed Mondays.
Le Jardin Gaulois (Retail). 3227-0161
Marvel at the huge selection of authentic French terrines, quiches, tarts and cakes to take out. From the management of Brin de Muguet restaurant in Ogikubo.
SunmapNakano-ku, Higashi-Nakano 3-1-17. Open 8am-midnight. Closed Mondays.
!Pizzeria Ciro (Italian). 6426-0309
The pizza makers here trained in Naples, and they use a wood-burning pizza oven. Some thirty varieties of fantastic thin-crusted pizzas are ready to eat in or take out.
no smokingSunmapNakano-ku, Higashi-Nakano 3-8-3. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Omasa-komasa (Izakaya). 3371-0019
The extensive sake collection here includes a good range of Juyondai, including some rare bottles. The master is quite exacting in his recommendations, so be prepared to be quizzed about your tastes in sake; the reward will be an introduction to some unusual brews. The food is also top-notch, with good grilled fish and chicken. Budget around Y4,000-7,000.
mapNakano-ku, Higashi-Nakano 4-2-25. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Pole Pole Za Space Cafe (Cafe). 3227-1405
The very artsy cafe includes a gallery space in back where you can catch the latest exhibit while enjoying coffee or cocktails; there's also window seating up front, a few outdoor tables, and a movie theater in the basement. Drinks include Chinese teas, hot cocktails (rum and apple, coffee and cointreau), and eight Belgian beers by the bottle. The food menu is limited to curry rice and a smattering of small deli items.
no smokingSunmapNakano-ku, Higashi-Nakano 4-4-1. Open 11:30am-11pm (-6pm Sun). Closed Mondays.
Machidaya (Liquor shop). 3389-4551
This rather serious liquor store carries lots of limited-edition premium sakes from around the country, including a big selection of premium one-cup sake. They also handle shochu and awamori.
SunmapNakano-ku, Kami-Takada 1-49-12. Open 10am-6:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.


!Minami Indo Dining (Indian). 3388-0373
Very good, authentic south Indian cuisine - the nan and tandoori items are especially good. Lunch starts at around Y800, with a curry-and-tandoori thali platter for Y1150. Budget around Y2000 for dinner.
SunmapNakano-ku, Arai 1-23-23. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Zinc (Belgian rest/beer bar). 5343-2164
Formerly a Belgian beer specialty bar, Zinc (pronounced "zanc") now offers US and Japanese craft beers as well, although prices for draft beer tend to be higher than average. They also serve simple Japanese and Korean snacks, and are open relatively late.
lateSunmapNakano-ku, Arai 2-30-11. Open 5pm-2am daily.
Kyle's Good Finds (Bakery). 3385-8993
Cakes, pies, cookies and muffins made by New York baker Kyle Sexton.
mapNakano-ku, Arai 2-7-10. Open 10am-6pm. Closed Sundays.
Good Morning Cafe (Cafe). 5318-3222
A lively branch of the Osaka-spawned cafe chain, Good Morning Cafe Nakano draws a crowd of Meiji University students and other Nakano denizens with its salt-butter caramel waffles (from 8am), espresso beverages and gourmet burgers. In the evenings there's a casual dinner menu with lots of salads and vegetable dishes, along with budget wines. [Show more]
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 4-10-2, Nakano Central Park South 1F. Open 8am-11:30pm daily.
Trico Curry (Curry). 5942-4504
Multi-vegetable curries are the specialty of the house here, each featuring more than a dozen seasonal vegetables.
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 4-20-6. Open 11:30am-3, 6-9pm (LO) daily.
Il Fornello (Italian). 3387-5210
Splendid cooking by a great Italian chef. Lunch Y1000-1800; dinner Y3500 and Y5000.
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 4-7-2. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Hikaru (Izakaya). 3388-8778
A very informal drinking spot, Hikaru serves cheap beers and cocktails along with a small but focused selection of snacks to go with your booze - grilled fish, grilled vegetables, deep-fried heirloom-breed chicken and an intensely flavored beef-tripe stew (motsu nikomi). The nikomi stew is a standout, showcasing five different beef organ meats in a rich miso-based broth. [Show more]
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-47-3. Open 5pm-1am daily.
!Kohrinbo (Chinese). 3385-7005
This is the kind of vegetarian Chinese that specializes in crafty "imitation meat" dishes alongside the more recognizable tofu and vegetable items. The results are quite tasty and varied in flavor - it's amazing just what you can do with mushrooms, wheat gluten, nuts, lotus root and other vegetables. It's just a tiny counter with nine stools, a TV set on the wall, a friendly mama-san, and shockingly cheap prices.
mapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-52-15, Nakano Broadway 2F. Open 11:30am-3:30, 5-8pm. Closed Sundays.
Zingaro (Cafe). 5942-8382
Located in the midst the manga, anime and toy stores of Nakano Broadway, Bar Zingaro is a project of well-known pop artist Takashi Murakami. The cafe-bar opened in early 2014 along with four contemporary art galleries in the same complex. It's managed by Oslo-based cafe-bar Fuglen in Shibuya, and serves up a similar menu of gourmet espresso drinks and creative cocktails. [Show more]
decorSunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-52-15, Nakano Broadway 2F. Open 11am-9pm (Fri, Sat -11pm) daily.
Akiyoshi (Yakitori). 3385-0071
It's not fancy, but with its reliable food and very reasonable prices, this small yakitori chain offers good value for money.
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-54-3. Open 5-11pm daily.
Vow's Bar (Bar). 3385-5530
The building may look like it's falling apart, but the bar itself is quite cozy and comfortable. It's run by a Buddhist monk, and he sometimes puts on CDs of Buddhist chanting as background music.
latemapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-55-6, 2F. Open 7:30pm-4am. Closed Sundays.
Aoba (Ramen). 3388-5552
The ramen at this popular shop comes with big slabs of chashu that taste almost like ham.
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-58-1. Open 10am-7pm. Closed Thursdays.
!Jidoriya (Japanese regional). 3388-7447
Hakata cuisine - traditional cooking from Fukuoka in northern Kyushu - is the specialty of this rather boisterous izakaya in Nakano's bar zone. Besides serving excellent food, Jidoriya offers a respectable sake list of around fifteen premium varieties, available in tasting sizes (60ml) and three-part tasting sets (Y990) in case you want to compare different breweries and styles. [Show more]
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-59-1. Open 4pm-12:30am (Sat, Sun 12-) daily.
!Okajoki (Robatayaki). 3228-1230
Excellent grilled fish and meat cooked over an open hearth, robata-style. There's also sashimi and plenty of standard izakaya fare. The charmingly rustic two-story building is reminiscent of a country farmhouse.
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-59-3. Open 11:30am-1, 4-9:20pm (LO) daily.
Tsukada Nojo (Japanese regional). 5318-6588
First-rate Miyazaki chicken dishes, regional Kyushu fare and local shochu brands are the specialties at this reasonably priced, unpretentious Miyazaki-based izakaya chain. Budget around Y3000-4000 for dinner with drinks. Open until 2am (LO) Fridays and Saturdays. [Go to branch review]
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-60-13, KM Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.
Neko no Kanzume (Cat cafe). 070-6522-2225
A relatively small neighborhood establishment, "Can of Cats" is noteworthy for their very playful cats, and human staff who go out of their way to keep them entertained with a full complement of cat toys and a lot of energy. Unlike most cafes, you're allowed to pick up and hold the animals here in addition to petting them - the staff will tell you which ones enjoy it and which are off-limits. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-68-9, AK Bldg 3F. Open noon-8pm (Sat, Sun 11am-8). Closed Wed, 1st and 3rd Thu.
!Yamituki Curry (Curry). 3389-2137
The original Japanese curries here incorporate umami-rich coconut milk, ripe tomatoes and cheese as well as fresh seasonal vegetables. Some popular options (from Y730) are oysters and spinach with baked cheese; ripe tomato, eggplant and chicken; and pork-cabbage, while extra toppings (mostly Y100) include corn, bamboo shoots, coriander, garlic shoots and tofu.
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano-5-50-3. Open 11:30am-12:30am daily.
Ringer Hut Nakano Sun Mall (Japanese regional). 5318-3160
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
lateSunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-61-6. Open 10am-3am (Sun -1am) daily.
!Pasta Kitchen (Yoshoku). 5340-3227
Open since 1999, this pleasantly decorated basement shop serves several dozen variations of Japanese-style spaghetti - permutations of ingredients like tarako (cod roe), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), sea urchin, squid, natto, shiso, kimchee, shimeji and other mushrooms, eggplant and bacon. [Show more]
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 2-25-6, Noi Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Navel (Wine bar). 5340-5808
Despite the close quarters, Navel is a relaxing place to enjoy a couple of drinks and a bite to eat. Around ten wines are available by the glass (Y300-), and selections change daily. [Show more]
lateSunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 2-30-8, Tachikawa Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-4am daily.
Vivo Daily Stand (Wine bar). 5888-5476
A very casual local (non-standing) bar with reasonably priced wines. Most food items are priced at Y400 and come in tiny, bite-size portions.
lateSunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 3-35-6. Open 5pm-3am daily.
!Saikoro (Ramen). 6304-8902
The north side of Nakano is famed for Nakano Broadway, a center of otaku culture and interesting traditional restaurants. But on the often ignored south side, there is a wonderful ramen shop worth a visit. Saikoro is part of the Jiraigen Syndicate, a noodle group that makes simple, honest Tokyo ramen in cool, stylish shops. Look for the shop with a DJ booth and hanging saikoro (dice) in the window. [Show more]
no smokinglateSunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 2-28-8. Open 11am-1:30am (LO; Sun -11pm) daily.
!Carthago (Middle Eastern). 3384-9324
Terrific Turkish, Tunisian, and Lebanese specialties, great music, and a very comfortable atmosphere. The wine list covers the Mediterranean from Spain to Algeria to Morocco, with some nice Spanish choices. The couscous and tajine dishes are especially good, as are the lamb kebabs and the mixed appetizer platters.
SunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 3-34-3. Open 6-10pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Il Primo (Italian). 3384-3981
Authentic Italian fare prepared by an Italian-trained chef
SunmapNakano-ku, Chuo 5-46-5. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Mugs (Cafe). 3382-3644
Mugs Cafe is the joint venture of three young designers, and the decor is a fusion of fifties cool and Asian lounge. The pan-Asian menu lists unusual items such as bahn mi Vietnamese sandwiches (Y800) and cold tofu topped with Chinese preserved eggs (Y500). [Show more]
SunmapNakano-ku, Chuo 5-48-5. Open noon-11pm. Closed Mondays.


!JAC (Ramen). 5318-5240
Tokushima, a major city on Japan's smallest major island of Shikoku, is home to one of the most famous local styles of ramen. The signature points are a heavy, porky soup flavored with soy sauce and topped with a sliced pork stir fry and a raw egg. A few shops have made the 600km journey from Tokushima to Tokyo, and JAC is one of them. [Show more]
mapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 1-4-12. Open 11:30am-3, 6pm-midnight. Closed Sun eve, Mon.
El Pato (American). 6795-7888
Burgers are the main draw at this popular bar-restaurant; they also serve tacos and small tapas-style dishes. Shiga Kogen IPA is usually available on tap.
lateSunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 2-22-10. Open noon-3:30, 6:30pm-2am. Closed Mon, some Tue.
!Craft Beer Market Koenji (Beer bar). 5356-7982
Known for their good food, lively atmosphere and reasonably priced craft brews, the Craft Beer Market chain has been growing quickly, and this fifth branch is their first foray into a residential neighborhood rather than an after-work business district. Similar to the downtown branches, CBM Koenji pours a well-chosen lineup of mostly Japanese craft brews from its thirty taps, along with a few ordinary lagers and wine by the glass for those who don't yet fully enjoy the pleasures of craft beer. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 2-22-6. Open 5-11:30pm daily.
Cafe Baron (Bird cafe). 5356-6510
Baron is a very laid-back cafe where you can hang out with stunning resident owls and capricious lizards while you enjoy very good coffee, tea and snacks. There's a hands-off policy here - no touching the owls - but you can take all the photos you like as long as you respect each bird's personal space (and turn off your flash). [Show more]
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-10-5. Open 11am-6pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Queen of Chickens (Italian). 5327-8328
Great roast chicken at just Y1880 a bird, plus a decent selection of budget wines (from Y2700) draw the crowds at this Shimbashi-based shop. There's a hefty Y680 per person table charge, but that includes a bottomless bowl of fresh seasonal vegetables and a bagna cauda-style warm anchovy dip.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-16-2, Seikatsu no Hana B-kan 1F. Open 5-11:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Tsukada Nojo (Japanese regional). 5327-6696
First-rate Miyazaki chicken dishes, regional Kyushu fare and local shochu brands are the specialties at this reasonably priced, unpretentious Miyazaki-based izakaya chain. Budget around Y3000-4000 for dinner with drinks.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-17-2. Open 5pm-midnight (LO; Sat 2am) daily.
!Dachibin (Okinawan). 3337-1352
A large, lively izakaya that occasionally hosts performances of Okinawan musicians. There's a long counter and big tatami mat area - both usually packed. The staff wear Okinawan costumes, there's non-stop Okinawan music in the air, and the counter is decorated with cans of Spam, taco sauce, and other Okinawan delicacies. The food is wonderful and fairly cheap - highlights include their goya champuru, goat soup, and the papaya pickled in miso. The drinks menu includes original awamori cocktails and Okinawan microbrew beer.
lateSunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-2-13. (located along the shopping street on the north side of the station) Open 5pm-5am daily.
Cafe Apartment (Cafe). 3339-8339
Make yourself comfortable at Koenji's Cafe Apartment, where you are given a pair of slippers at the door. The floor plan is that of a 1DK apartment, strikingly similar to the domiciles of many Tokyoites. Low tables and soft cushions line the walls; green plants inhabit the corners. Picture books and magazines await perusal, while crayons and white paper placemats are provided for more creative moments. [Show more]
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-2-15 2F. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Himonoya (Izakaya). 3338-8188
Part of a popular izakaya chain, Himonoya specializes in himono (grilled dried fish), with a big menu of different varieties from around Japan. There's also plenty of good regional sake. Budget around Y2-3000 per person for food and drink.
lateSunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-2-16. Open 4pm-3am daily.
Tabushi (Ramen). 5327-4744
Spicy (but not crazy-spicy) Chinese-style tantanmen noodles in a thick, pork-filled soup are the specialty at this small shop. They also serve good gyoza dumplings as a side dish.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-2-17. Open 11:30am-1am daily.
!Fatz's (Burgers). 6762-3939
Run by an experienced American burger chef, this friendly neighborhood shop custom assembles all its hamburgers according to your instructions. A basic, single 120-gram beef patty on a bun with cole slaw and fries runs Y800 - after that you can add on various sauces (basil mayo, spicy ketchup) and toppings (provolone, fresh salsa, guacamole, jalapenos) for a bit extra. You can also swap in chicken or sausage instead of the beef patty, or get a double-sized patty. [Show more]
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-21-19, Lions Plaza Koenji E. Open noon-3, 6-10pm (Sun noon-6pm). Closed Mondays, 3rd Tuesday.
!Whale (Middle Eastern). 5327-8682
Well-selected and reasonably priced craft beers and wines are complemented by simple Middle Eastern fare (tajines, dips, falafel) at this tiny drinking spot. Located next to a sister shop called Kujira Curry Bar and across from a Vietnamese BBQ stall, Whale is one of more than a dozen bars and mini-restaurants making up the Dai-ichi Ichiba restaurant arcade, a retro-style, indoor "food alley" just north of Koenji station. [Show more]
lateSunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 3-22-8, Dai-ichi Ichiba. Open 5pm-2am daily.
Gyuhachi (Izakaya). 3310-0555
Located under the JR railroad tracks, this very casual drinking spot serves great charcoal-grilled beef on skewers, including a variety of organ meats. Surrounded by similarly inexpensive and informal shops, it makes a nice stop on a bar-hopping tour of the neighborhood. Budget around Y2000 for food and drink.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 3-69-1. Open 4pm-midnight daily.
Mugendo Asian Mama (World cuisine). 5377-0831
A trendy bar/restaurant run by Mugendo, a cute ethnic trinket shop. The food is Vietnamese, Indian, Thai and Okinawan; the music and decor are similarly eclectic. Small dishes start at around Y500.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 4-22-5-B1F. Open 6pm-midnight (Sat, Sun 5pm-). Closed Wednesdays.
Khana (Nepalese). 5306-1626
Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian dishes at cheap prices, with lunch and dinner "sets" starting at Y750. Lunch served to 4pm.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 3-58-25, 2F. (along the PAL shopping street, about 3 min. south of the JR station) Open 11am-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Myondon Norimaki (Korean). 3316-8866
With its overhead backlit menus and unpretentious furnishings, this late-night joint looks like a cross between a fast-food stand and a Chinese noodle shop. The unusual specialty of the house is Korean futomaki - fat sushi rolls filled with vegetables, bulgogi, cheese, kimchee, glutinous black rice - some ten variations in all, including a sampler set if you can't decide. [Show more]
lateSunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 4-25-4. Open 11am-3am daily.
!!Kushibeh (Yakitori). 3318-7756
The entryway is plastered with sake labels (usually a good sign), and the sake selection is from all over Japan, with well-chosen seasonal brews that change every month. The yakitori is outstanding, served with a nice bowl of home-made chicken broth to start your meal. A 9-skewer yakitori assortment is Y2000.
mapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 4-6-1, Asahi Bldg. B1F. (walk 3 or 4 minutes south along the PAL shopping street from the station; it's just off that street on the left) Open 5-11:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Here We Are Marble (Cafe). 5934-8200
The interior of this cute and friendly cafe skillfully combines wood and metal, but marble is strangely absent. Chill out to wispy indie folk pop with a cup of tea and some spiced yogurt (Y500) or choose one of their special desserts. Menu changes daily.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 2-14-2. (about 10 min. down the main street leading south from the JR station, on the left) Open noon-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Coffee Amp (Coffee shop). 5929-9587
This coffee roastery sells beans from Y790/200g, and also has a cafe section with espresso beverages, drip coffees and pastries.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 2-20-13. Open noon-9pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Planet 3rd (Cafe). 3318-3931
Planet 3rd is a pocket of urban cool off the beaten track in Koenji. The spacious interior is well designed, the atmosphere open and friendly. Check your email at one of the free computer terminals and then sit back and enjoy your coffee. Dogs are also welcome!
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 2-49-18. Open 11:30am-midnight daily.
Honohono Cafe (Cafe). 3318-5100
This comfortable neighborhood cafe serves a casual menu of ethnic dishes from around the world (spicy chicken spring rolls, gizzard confit), and provides customers with free WiFi.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Minami 3-21-19. Open 11:30am-11pm. Closed Tuesdays.


Stone (Bar). 5373-0312
A half-dozen beers from San Diego's Stone and other craft brewers are served on tap here, at prices ranging from Y980-Y1300 per pint. There's also a well-stocked retail shop with some fifty microbrews from both Europe and the US, ready to take home or drink here (after adding a Y400 bottle charge). [Show more]
lateSunmapSuginami-ku, Asagaya-Kita 2-4-2, 2F. Open 6pm-2am daily.
Phrik Khii Nuu (Thai). 3336-6414
A small neighborhood joint (it would be hard to find if you didn't stumble across it) with about a dozen seats and proper Thailand-style Thai food. They serve good curries and some unusual regional dishes; they also offer cooking classes.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Asagaya-Kita 2-9-5. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
La Sucree (French). 3330-5667
A small, budget French restaurant for the neighborhood; lunch is Y1500.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Asagaya-Kita 4-6-29. Open 5:30-9pm (LO). Closed Thursdays.


Akiyoshi (Yakitori). 3392-6609
It's not fancy, but with its reliable food and very reasonable prices, this small yakitori chain offers good value for money.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Kami-Ogi 1-10-9. (from the JR west exit go out the north side and turn left; it's a block past the bowling alley) Open 5-11:30pm (Sundays 10). Closed Mondays.
Turquoise (Beer bar). 5930-1888
Four Japanese microbrews are served on tap here at the tiny Craft Beer Stand Turquoise, which has five seats and standing room for another half-dozen or so. If you're hungry, the specialty of the house is a spicy jerk chicken baked in a tandoor oven.
mapSuginami-ku, Kamiogi 1-4-9. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Sekkomon (Dim sum). 5347-0522
Above-average budget Chinese in a spiffed-up dining room; the specialties are dim sum (including soup-filled shoronpo dumplings), Chinese desserts (featuring their home-made sweet tofu), and noodles, plus a dozen varieties of Chinese tea. Almost the entire menu is available for take-out.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Kami-Ogi 1-7-1, Lumine 5F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Tsunahachi (Tempura). 5397-7394
Fresh, not-too-expensive tempura in a pleasant department-store setting from this Shinjuku-based chain.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Kami-Ogi 1-7-1, Lumine 5F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
!!Harukiya (Ramen). 3391-4868
This long-running shop (founded in Showa 24) serves classic Tokyo-style ramen in a shoyu soup that's made with dried sardines. The wonton-men is especially recommended.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Kami-Ogi 1-4-6. Open 11am-9:30pm daily.
Honmura An (Soba). 3390-0325
First-class soba -- they also had a very popular branch in New York City's Soho neighborhood.
no smokingSunmapSuginami-ku, Kami-Ogi 2-7-11. Open 11am-8:30pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
Brin de Muguet (French). 3220-5448
Traditional French cuisine at friendly prices, although they have some upmarket wines if you're in the mood to splurge.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Ogikubo 5-14-4. (down near the end of the Suzuran-dori shopping street) Open 11:30am-2 (LO), 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Sympa (Wine bar). 3220-2888
This wine-bar restaurant is run by the chef from the old Dominus wine bar (which used to occupy this space) along with a new sommelier.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Ogikubo 5-16-23, B1F. Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Wednesdays.
!Tomato (Yoshoku). 3393-3262
This small neighborhood yoshoku-ya serves "European stews and English curries." Curry sauces are built on a fond de veau base and incorporate some 36 different spices, all on display on the shop's counter. The flavor of the curry is rather unique and very appealing - similar to other European-style Japanese curries but with an intriguing hint of medicinal herbs. [Show more]
SunmapSuginami-ku, Ogikubo 5-20-7. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
Maru (Izakaya). 3398-8708
Gyumotsu nikomi (beef tripe stew) is the specialty here, and they also serve a decent selection of sake.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Ogikubo 5-29-6. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Tansaibo (Izakaya). 3393-5428
Standard izakaya fare, but prepared very well.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Ogikubo 5-30-8. Open 11:30am-1:45, 5:30pm-midnight (LO) daily.
Toko 'n Toko (Italian). 3220-2455
Mr. Toko prepares excellent pizzas and other Italian fare, as well as surprising items like paella and guacamole. The smallish dining room has around four tables and a tiny counter.
mapSuginami-ku, Ogikubo 4-21-11. Open 5:30-10:30pm. Closed Sunday, Monday.


Copo do Dio (Brazilian). 3399-6821
Hidden among the quiet streets north of Nishi Ogikubo station lies Copo do Dia, a tiny cafe that also functions as an informal Brazilian cultural center. The space, with its heavy wooden tables and simple white walls, is largely unadorned, the vibe calm and friendly. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Kita 4-26-10-103. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wed, 1st+3rd Tue.
Yebisu (Nishi-Ogi north) (Yakitori). 3390-8445
Good, reliable yakitori and Yebisu beer. If they're full, check their branch(es) on the south side of the station.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-19-12. Open 4pm-midnight daily.
!Mu-hung (Singaporean). 3394-9191
A comfortable smoke-free cafe that serves good Singapore-style chicken rice, although unfortunately they only serve it with fragrant jasmine rice on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month; you get regular rice the rest of the time. Other dishes include very good Malaysian curries with excellent fried roti (bread), and other Malaysian/Singaporean specialties.
no smokingSunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-21-2. Open 11am-9:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Turquoise (Beer bar). 6913-5658
Craft beer fans will find a few brews of interest at this lively neighborhood spot. Punk IPA is often found on tap (priced at Y900 a pint) along with a couple of guest taps, plus a smattering of imported craft beers in the Y1000-1350 range per bottle. There are also around ten Belgian selections if you want a change of pace. The food menu tends towards simple pub grub like curries and nachos with guacamole.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-14-2, Miyama Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO). Closed Mondays.
Masa (Yakitori). 3395-9667
While you can find interesting and unusual sake choices at this old-school yakitori shop, the operation feels a bit disorganized - several of our choices were out of stock or almost finished, and it may be easier to simply check their refrigerated cabinet rather than their menu. (Do check the prices when you order though, as they stock some very premium brands.) Our yakitori assortment had a bit too much skin and offal for our taste, but the stuffed chicken wings (tebasaki gyoza) were outstanding. There's a big menu of non-chicken items as well, most of it fairly traditional izakaya fare.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-31-10. Open 5:30pm-midnight. Closed some Mondays.
Riddim (Cafe). 5310-2282
A bohemian-style cafe with music and food from Southeast Asia and the rest of the world. The menu at lunchtime is mostly Vietnamese, but there's a wider selection in the evening, including pastas.
lateSunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-31-5, 1F. Open 11:30am-2am (4am Fri,Sat) daily.
Village Vanguard (Burgers). 5336-3445
American-style diner burgers are the mainstay here, with lots of original recipes and seasonal variations like camembert-pepper and basil-mozzarella burgers. They also serve chicken- and fish-based sandwiches. Burgers start at under Y1000.
mapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-10-8. Open 11:30am-midnight (Fri, Sat -2am) daily.
Yebisu (Nishi-Ogi south) (Yakitori). 3332-2955
Good, reliable yakitori and Yebisu beer. This extremely popular neighbhorhood spot occupies four storefronts along this narrow alleyway, as well as a branch just north of the station.
mapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-11-6. Open 4-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!El Quixico (Mexican). 3332-7590
Splendid food, with generous portions. The decor is on the casual side, featuring exotic musical instruments and burlap bags, and tables are spaced widely enough to provide a little privacy. There's a good selection of salsa on the stereo, a large drinks menu, and they're open late.
lateSunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-15-14, 2F. (on the south side, alongside the JR tracks in the direction of Ogikubo station) Open 6pm-2am (LO). Closed Mondays, third Tues.
Papapapa Pine (Ramen). 3247-2181
At first, pineapple ramen sounds strange, maybe even downright awful. But imagine some other things that have been matched with pineapples. Pineapple and a sweet terriyaki sauce make a great burger topping. Pineapple glaze is amazing on ham and pork chops. And thousands of Hawaiian-style pizzas are ordered every day. Does it work with ramen? You bet. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapSuginami-ku, Nishiogi-Minami 3-12-1. Open 11am-11pm (Sun -8pm) daily.
Spoon (Curry). 5941-6733
This highly rated Japanese curry shop specializes in hearty "French curry" - some thirteen variations, all prepared with European-style fond de veau stock and a mix of Indian spices.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Shoan 3-38-19. Open 11:30am-3:30, 6:30-11pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Moss Core Coffee (Coffee shop). 5344-9617
Well-prepared single-origin coffees are served at this friendly neighborhood spot, with your choice of two different coffees of the day. Espresso is Y350, cafe latte is Y450, and blueberry muffins and pound cake are around Y350. Of course they also sell beans to go, from Y700 per 100 grams.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Shoan 3-38-20. Open 9am-7pm. Closed Wednesdays.
!Sasaratei (Izakaya). 3247-7077
This lively neighborhood drinking spot is a branch of the long-established Fujintei izakaya a few blocks away, and the spacious, comfortable second floor is the place to be. The menu is disarmingly eclectic - Taiwanese sausage, charcoal-grilled prawns, shashlik kebabs made from premium Yamagata pork - and everything we've tried has been first-rate. The sake list is small but serviceable - this is the kind of place where you find a label you like and stick with it, rather than exploring different breweries.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-14-12. Open 4pm-12:30am (LO) daily.
Fujintei (Izakaya). 3333-6033
An old-fashioned drinking spot with eclectic food and varied sake at reasonable prices.
SunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-8-8. (down a tiny alley on the left side, just off the main street leading south from the JR station) Open 5:30pm-midnight (LO) daily.
(Listings are continued in the Kichijoji guide.)
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