Shinjuku station

Din Tai Fung (Dim sum). 5361-1381
Fantastic, authentic Taiwanese-style dumplings; including the hot-broth-filled shoronpo dumplings for which they're most famous. [Go to branch review]
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 12F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Breizh Cafe Creperie (Cafe). 5361-1335
Delicious Bretagne-style artisanal sweet crepes and savory buckwheat galettes are served along with hard cider and soft drinks imported from the region. When the weather permits, there's nice outdoor terrace seating next to the garden atop the Takashimaya/Times Square shopping complex.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 13F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Tsunahachi (Tempura). 5361-1860
Fresh, skillfully prepared tempura at friendly prices in one of this chain's several Shinjuku branches.
SunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 13F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Imahan (Shabu-shabu). 5361-1871
Shabu-shabu and sukiyaki made with Ohmi beef, from Y3800 at dinner. Lunch is Y2300-2500.
SunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 14F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Katsukura (Tonkatsu). 5361-1878
Besides the usual tonkatsu they offer variations like deep-fried shrimp and scallops, yuba (tofu skin) croquettes, and nice side dishes like chawanmushi, tofu salad and kakuni stewed pork. The original shop is in Kyoto.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 14F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Tenkuni (Tempura). 5361-1875
Deluxe, full-course tempura dinners - nine or ten pieces plus side orders - are priced Y4,000-10,000 at this convenient branch of an old tempura shop with a 120-year history.
SunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 14F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Rikyu (Yoshoku). 5312-6211
Good charcoal-grilled beef tongue from this Sendai-based chain. You'll also find beef-tongue curries, stews, sausages and other yoshoku-style dishes, along with regional sake from Miyagi Prefecture. [Go to branch review]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-38-1, Lumine EST Shinjuku 7F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Slappy Cakes (American). 6457-4155
Gourmet pancakes are the big draw at this popular Oregon-based breakfast restaurant, where they come in interesting variations like Banana-Chocolate Chip with Raspberry Jam; and Roast Mushrooms, Scallions and Cheddar Cheese. In fact you're encouraged to devise your own custom combination of sweet or savory ingredients, ten optional toppings (lemon-curd, whipped-cream), and choice of batter (buttermilk, whole-grain or peanut-butter). [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-38-1, Lumine EST Shinjuku 7F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Gumbo and Oyster Bar (Seafood). 5369-5017
Oysters, fresh seafood cocktails, and a few Cajun specialties like gumbo at a stylish counter bar. The seafood "pan roasts" are nicely done, and the oysters are always top quality. [See FULL REVIEW.]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-38-1, Lumine EST Shinjuku 8F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Berg (Cafe). 3226-1288
More of a fast-food coffee shop (hot dogs are Y290) than a beer bar, Berg does offer a couple of Japanese craft beers on tap and maybe a dozen US imports by the bottle to go with your snack. It's worth noting because of its location - right in the basement of Lumine Est, between the Marunouchi line and JR exits. Note that the atmosphere can get a bit smoky at times.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-38-1, Lumine EST Shinjuku B1F. Open 7am-11pm daily.

Shinjuku station to Meiji-dori

!Samurai (Jazz kissaten). 3341-0383
Thousands of maneki neko (good-luck cat statues) fill the interior of this spacious cafe-bar. There's a counter and several tables, making this a good venue for a small party. Service is friendly and the air isn't too smoky. The manager seems to be a big fan of Johnny Griffin, whose records are displayed prominently. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-35-5, Tera Bldg 5F. Open 6pm-midnight (Sat. 3pm-mid) daily.
Kaijin (Ramen). 3356-5658
The delicate but flavorful very seafood-based shio broth at this ramen shop is made from the catch of the day - a mix of several types of fish in season. Equally unusual are the toppings - chicken meatballs and shrimp balls along with shiso leaf.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-35-7, Sanraku Bldg 2F. Open 11am-3, 4:30-11pm daily.
Banh Xeo Saigon (Vietnamese). 6277-3834
These days you can find pho in many a hip Japanese cafe, but you have to venture further out of your way for good, authentic bahn xeo, those wafer-thin, crepe-like pancakes that are the eponymous specialty here. The banh xeo at Banh Xeo Saigon come in several enticing varieties - shrimp and pork (the standard at most places); mixed seafood; four-mushroom; sakura shrimp; cabbage and pork with mayonnaise; and spicy potato, bacon and cheese. Each order comes with a bowl full of foliage - romaine lettuce, mint leaves, various greens - in which to wrap your crepe. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-36-14, Kawano Annex Bldg 6/7F. Open 11am-10:30pm daily.
Dancing Crab (Seafood). 6380-5151
Louisiana seafood is the specialty at this sprawling (136-seat) and rather flashy new corporate dining spot. You can create your own seafood combo platters with crab, lobster, prawns and other seafood, sausage, vegetables and "Louisiana paella." Side dishes include seafood gumbo, crab cakes, and an alarmingly named "Dancing Caesar Salad." Budget around Y5000 for dinner with drinks.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-37-12, Shinjuku Nowa Bldg. 2F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
!Daidaiya (Asian fusion). 5362-7173
Spectacular "nouvelle Japonaise" cuisine in a stunning modern setting. Standout items on the menu include cold stuffed cabbage kimchee with cashew nuts, minced tuna and Korean bean paste (Y780), sauteed foie gras served on lotus-root cakes (Y1600), and homemade Satsuma pork sausages with a fresh wasabi-mayonnaise sauce. [Show more]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-37-12, Shinjuku Nowa Bldg. 3F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.
Hibiki Shinjuku-ten (Izakaya). 3355-4371
This upscale chain izakaya is known for their excellent grilled meats and vegetables and their well-chosen sake and shochu lists. The decor is sleek Japanese modern. Budget around Y6000-7000 per person with drinks.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-37-12, Shinjuku Nowa Bldg. 8F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Tsukada Nojo (Japanese regional). 5363-1355
First-rate Miyazaki chicken dishes, regional Kyushu fare and local shochu brands are the specialties at this reasonably priced, unpretentious Miyazaki-based izakaya chain. Budget around Y3000-4000 for dinner with drinks. [Go to branch review]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-36-15, Shinjuku Uchino Bldg 2F. Open 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Kurawanka (Kyushu). 3352-5111
Japanese regional dishes from various parts of the country. Lunch from Y700, full-course dinners for Y5,000-Y10,000. There's also an a la carte menu, and many regional sake brands.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-36-6. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Kakiden (Kaiseki). 3352-5121
Kaiseki service at accessible prices, although the nightly koto performances are a bit cliched. An 18-course mini-kaiseki menu is Y8000.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-37-11, Yasuyo Bldg 6-9F. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily.
Toriyoshi (Shinjuku #1) (Yakitori). 3225-1922
Spicy chicken wings, yakitori and Nagoya miso specialties.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-34-16, Ikeda Plaza 5F. Open 4-11pm (LO) daily.
Tatsukichi (Kushiage). 3341-9322
You'll find high-quality skewered morsels that are deep-fried with a light touch here, and ordering is simple - just tell them when to stop. (Don't worry, you can specify in advance any ingredients you can't eat.) Some highlights are the Nagoya cochin, Iberico pork, and fried quail eggs that somehow have a soft-boiled consistency. Drinks include beer, sake and reasonably priced wines. Budget around Y3500-4000 for a filling meal with drinks, or around Y7,500 if you stay for all forty items on the monthly menu.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-34-16, Ikeda Plaza Bldg 4F. Open 5-10pm (LO) daily.
!Tsunahachi Tsunohazuan (Tempura). 3358-2788
The deluxe edition of one of Tokyo's most famous tempura shops, with prices starting at Y2500 for lunch and Y6000 for tempura dinner.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-28-4. Open 11:30am-3, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
La Verde (Italian). 3341-6124
Very good budget pastas and other Italian fare, a good wine selection and convenient hours.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-28-13, Shinjuku Nagashima Bldg. 3F. Open 11:30am-2am (LO) daily.
!Sono (Yakitori). 3356-1818
Excellent grilled chicken, sushi and much more in this glitzy, high-rise branch of the popular Shinjuku yakitori restaurant. There's a good selection of premium sake to go with your food; dinner with drinks averages around Y6000. [Go to branch review]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-32-10, T&T Bldg 7F. Open 5-11pm daily.
!Motomura (Gyukatsu). 3354-0171
There are lines to get into Motomura day and night, and it's easy to understand why once you've tasted their very popular gyukatsu (deep-fried beef cutlet). Served rare in the middle with a thin, crunchy layer of breading around it, the lightly marbled beef is tender and very flavorful. Season it to taste with rock salt, pepper, onion sauce, soy sauce and wasabi; you can even grill it for a minute on the small hibachi at your table or counter. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-32-2 B1F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
!Tsunahachi (Tempura). 3352-1012
The main branch of one of Japan's most successful tempura restaurants. They've maintained their high standards while managing to keep prices very reasonable. Call ahead of time to avoid waiting on line.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-31-8. (from Shinjuku-dori, go down the small street to the left of Mitsukoshi) Open 11:15am-10pm (LO) daily.

North of Shinjuku-dori

Toriyoshi (Shinjuku #3) (Yakitori). 3355-2733
Spicy chicken wings, yakitori and Nagoya miso specialties.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-18-4, Seno Bldg 4F. Open 4pm-4am daily.
Keawjai (Thai). 3226-9991
Top-quality "Imperial" Thai cuisine, from a newish branch of this long-established Tokyo Thai restaurant. Budget around Y2500 for food at dinnertime.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-21-7, Toshin Bldg 2F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Meal Muji (Cafe). 5367-2726
Stylishly modern and surprisingly spacious, Meal Muji makes a pleasant retreat from the crowds of Shinjuku's shopping district. The decor is bright and cheerful, with ubiquitous sleek blond wood furnishings set off by clay-colored stucco walls and lots of greenery. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-15-15, Shinjuku Picadilly B1F. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily.
!Agio (Isetan) (Italian). 3354-6720
A lively "market-style" restaurant, with the emphasis on top-quality ingredients and simple preparation. Grilled meats and seafood, brick-oven-baked pizzas and assorted pastas make up most of the menu, and there are always plenty of daily specials.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-14-1, Isetan 7F. Open 11am-9:15pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Chaya Macrobiotic Rest. (French). 3357-0014
Health-oriented but not really vegetarian fare (there are lots of fish dishes) in a casual French style.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-14-1, Isetan 7F. Open 11am-10pm (LO 9). Closed Wednesdays.
La Table d'Hediard (French). 3356-9585
Good French cooking and reasonably priced wines at this casual department-store restaurant; the menu features dishes like duck confit and mushroom salad and excellent grilled lamb chops. Prix-fixe dinner menus are Y3900 and wines start in the Y3000 range; lunchtime sets are priced from Y1800.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-14-1, Isetan 7F. Open 11am-9:15pm (LO) daily.
!Kushinobo Bekkan (Kushiage). 3354-2403
One of Tokyo's most reliable kushiage shops, Kushinobo offers creative skewers, a decent sake selection and good value for money. A ten-skewer set menu is Y3240 at dinnertime, while an eight-skewer lunch set with soup and rice is Y1080. The lunch is a nice introduction - it features salmon, green pepper stuffed with ground pork, prawn, chicken with celery and other delicacies, all served hot from the fryer. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 3F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Chang-pha (Thai). 5269-4376
Inexpensive Thai street-market fare, including lots of stir-fries and curries in the Y800 range.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 4F. Open 11:30am-9:30pm (LO). Closed some Wednesdays.
El Flamenco (Spanish). 3356-3816
Live flamenco dancing is the main draw at this long-running Shinjuku institution. The music charge is Y3675, but Y4500 will get you a mixed tapas platter and a drink in addition to the show. Other prix-fixe menus that include the show are priced Y6,500-10,000.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 6F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10:30pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Kushinobo (Kushiage). 3356-3865
A branch of one of Tokyo's best kushiage chains. (Kushiage is deep-fried meat, seafood and vegetable morsels served on skewers.)
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 8F. Open 11:30am-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Suishin (Japanese regional). 3352-8721
Seafood from the Hiroshima area is the specialty here, including oysters in season. Budget around Y3500 at dinnertime, Y1100 for lunch.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan B1F. Open 11am-9:15pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

3-chome station area

Hina (Sushi). 5367-3705
The Hina chain is known for their good-quality, all-you-can-eat sushi meals, starting at around Y4200 per person.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-1-26, Shinjuku Marui Annex 8F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
To The Herbs (Italian). 5366-7600
Tasty, sometimes unusual pizzas and well-constructed pastas at this budget Italian cafe chain. Open all afternoon.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-1-26, Shinjuku Marui Annex 8F. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
!Brooklyn Parlor (Cafe). 6457-7763
Whether you're here for a dessert break, a casual evening meal, or an afternoon working on your laptop, Brooklyn Parlor supplies a fun, bustling backdrop. Unlike Tokyo's many quiet, hidden-away cafes, here it feels like you've stumbled onto the hub of a social scene. Of course all the standard cafe needs are provided for - free wifi; hip background music; tons of magazines and books on art, design and fashion; good espresso beverages, interesting cocktails and very affordable wines. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-1-26, Shinjuku Marui Annex B1F. Open 11:30am-11:30pm daily.
Tiki Tiki (Misc. Southeast Asian). 3226-0996
At Tokyo's original Tiki lounge, wooden masks glower, faux torches blaze, and hula dancers shake it, shake it, baby. The kitsch is ubiquitous, self-aware, and executed with formidable slickness. If you're in the right mood, the bar at Tiki Tiki is a fun and convenient spot to meet for a drink with friends. [See FULL REVIEW.]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-4-8, Frente Shinjuku 3-chome 4F. Open 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Il Bacaro (Italian). 5269-8528
The stand-up bar at the front of Il Bacaro has a nice casual feel to it. You can drop in for a few minutes, have a quick glass of wine and a tiny snack, and be on your way. Or you can claim a seat at one of the three small tables and linger awhile, directing your attention to some of the dozen or so wines served by the glass. Cold appetizer trays line the counter, an espresso machine grinds away in the background, and dancehall reggae or pop music plays on the stereo. Waiters from the main dining room come and go with drink orders, and customers drift in and out. Snatches of Italian can be heard from time to time. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-4-8, Frente Shinjuku 3-chome B1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-9:15pm (LO) daily.
!Chinese Cafe Eight (Chinese). 3351-8869
You'll find great Peking Duck here - just Y3680 for a portion big enough for three or four people - plus a big menu of surprisingly inexpensive dumplings and small-plate dishes.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-5-3, Takayama Land Kaikan 6F. Open 24 hours a day.
Tanaka (Kushiage). 6274-8594
This popular Osaka-based izakaya is the complete opposite of your typical Tokyo gourmet kushiage shop - the atmosphere is lively and often raucous, with every inch of the tightly packed tables crowded to overflowing with trays of food and drinks. And, true to their Osaka roots, prices are very reasonable - most deep-fried skewers are Y100-120 each, with luxury items like asparagus and scallops just Y200. [Show more]
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-12-4, Kumasan Bldg 1F. Open 5pm-1:30am (LO) daily.
Bosphoras Hasan (Turkish). 3354-7947
One of the better Turkish restaurants in town, Bosphoras offers a wide selection of shish kebabs, Turkish pizzas, salads, and other authentic fare. There's a belly dance show at 8pm on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, so plan accordingly.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-6-11, 2F. Open 5-11:30pm daily.
!Donjaca (Suehiro-dori) (Izakaya). 3357-8090
Superlative izakaya-style fare in a lively, noisy setting. They have an impressive and ever-changing selection of jizake (regional sake), plus good sashimi and grilled fish. Intriguing original creations include maguro kimuchii yukke, made with raw tuna and raw egg and flavored with kimchee and sesame oil. No English spoken.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-6-12, 2F. Open 4pm-5am daily.
Marugo Grande (Wine bar). 6457-7305
This is the largest of several branches of this very popular budget wine bar in the neighborhood. Most wines by the glass are Y500-900, but you can spend a lot more on a special bottle if you're so inclined.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-6-14. Open 5pm-2am daily.
Kyochabana (Okonomiyaki). 3353-1575
Original-recipe Kyoto-style okonomiyaki is the specialty of the house here, but we were even more impressed with the kitchen's creative vegetable dishes and unusual yakisoba variations. The basement dining room is cozy and unpretentious, service is friendly, and prices are quite reasonable - a nice combination in this often-overpriced neighborhood. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-6-9, Yamaguchi Bldg B1F. Open 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Marugo (Wine bar). 3350-4605
Choose from about fifteen wines by the glass or bottle, or pick a Latour or Mouton from the back and put it on your expense account. France is amply represented, with biodynamic wines comprising nearly half of the choices on the frequently changing list. [Show more]
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-7-5. Open 5pm-2am daily.
Istanbul (Turkish). 3225-4080
Tasty and reasonably priced Turkish food in a comfortable, cozy room.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-8-2. Open 5-11pm daily.
Marugo II (Wine bar). 3356-1052
This second branch of the popular and always-packed Marugo wine bar serves two dozen wines by the glass, about half of them French, with a new selection every day. The food menu is Italian and very reasonably priced. Get there early to avoid the crowds. [Go to branch review]
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-9-4. Open 5pm-2am daily.
!Shousuke (Yakitori). 3341-2468
Shousuke is a spacious, two-story affair - downstairs there's a big sushi counter, and upstairs are several semi-private booths for two, four or more, separated by bamboo blinds for privacy. The decor is tasteful Japanese modern, with polished wood surfaces and subdued lighting. Given the very pretty setting and the modest menu prices, we were quite unprepared for the quality of the food, which is simply spectacular. [See FULL REVIEW.]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-10-10. Open 5pm-midnight daily.
Kowloon (Chinese). 3225-9262
Noodles, stir-fries and other typical Hong Kong-style street stall dishes, prepared exceptionally well. Their "dragon ramen" has giant, tasty chunks of kakuni (stewed pork) and a bit of octopus for variety.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-10-7. Open 11:30am-11:30pm daily.
Esogie (African). 3353-3334
Esogie's owner Lucky Isiwe has recreated a little slice of Lagos in Shinjuku 3-Chome. Nigerian funk plays on the bar's powerful sound system, and there's always something good cooking on the stove. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-11-2, Muraki Bldg 3F. Open 6pm-midnight (Fri, Sat -4am). Closed Wednesdays.
!Numata (Izakaya). 3350-5029
Fans of gyumotsu nikomi can choose three different varieties of stew at this popular specialty izakaya. The soy sauce-based version probably best shows off the individual flavors of the various organ meats, while the miso and extra-spicy miso versions will satisfy those who like a richer, deeper sauce. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-6-3, 2F. Open 5pm-midnight daily.
Cona (Italian). 3354-8823
Inexpensive late-night pizzas and drinks in a very casual setting. Wines are Y1900 per bottle or Y500 by the glass, and all pizzas and side dishes are Y500 each.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-11-12. Open 5pm-5am daily.
!Dora (Izakaya). 3226-0919
This basement branch of the Donjaca chain offers a wide menu of izakaya-style fare and Japanese sake. The Japanese dishes are much better than their multi-cultural experiments.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-9-5, B1F. (Across from BYGS Bldg.) Open 5pm-5am daily.
Donjaca (honten) (Izakaya). 3341-2497
Inexpensive jizake (regional sake) and good grilled fish. Seating can get a little cramped during peak hours, so check out the much larger Suehiro-dori branch just around the corner. No English spoken.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-9-10. Open to about 6am daily.
!Nagi Golden Gai (Ramen). 3205-1925
Dried baby sardines (niboshi) have been a common ingredient in ramen for many years. It wasn't until recently, though, that ramen chefs began using them in abundance. The tiny fish have a very bitter flavor, and cooking them too long will ruin anything. So when a shop comes along that is able to extract as much smoky, fishy taste from their niboshi as possible, fans rejoice. [Show more]
no smokinglateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1-1-10-2F. Open 24 hours a day.
Moto (Bar). 6457-3288
Nihonshu Stand Moto is a very informal bar that specializes in nihonshu, in this case quite a good selection of it at reasonable prices. The food menu is more extensive than you'd expect, dominated by small sake-friendly dishes like smoked mackerel and fried oysters. Open from noon on weekends. (Note that there's a small Y300 table charge.)
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 5-17-11, Hakuho Bldg B1F. Open 3-11:30pm daily.


Shinanoya (Liquor shop). 3204-2365
A good selection of wines and spirits and a dozen or so European beers at discount prices, plus random imported food items.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1-12-9. (on the main central street, across from Tokyo Kaisen Ichiba) Open 11am-4am daily.
Narcis (Jazz kissaten). 3209-6900
The bustling Kabukicho neighborhood may seem like a strange place for a jazz kissa, but Narcis is a great spot for listening to quiet jazz, and their stylish interior design is reminiscent of old cafes in New York City's East Village. The tiny cafe-bar is filled with African-style furniture and beautiful flowers arranged by the mama-san. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1-13-6, 2F. Open 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Niimura (honten) (Shabu-shabu). 3205-2200
Friendly service and high-quality shabu-shabu available until the wee hours of the morning.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1-14-3. Open 11-2am (LO 1:30) daily.
Calico (Cat cafe). 6457-6387
Even when it's full of visitors, there are plenty of cats to go around at this spacious, long-established two-story cafe. The shop's website promises more than fifty different cats, and that seems about right - while we were there we noticed a few new cats arriving in carrier boxes, perhaps being brought in to handle the mid-afternoon rush. You'll find many exotic breeds here including the Ocicat, Birman, Chartreux, Singapura, Himalayan and LaPerm, as well as your plain-old, common-or-garden Shorthairs and Munchkins. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1-16-2, Fuji Bldg 6F. Open 10am-9:15pm (LO) daily.
ZuZu (Bar). 5292-3703
The smart drink list offers eleven choices of popular umeshu like Saika and Kakutama, plus a few liqueurs based on anzu (apricot), yuzu and even decopon (the orange-tangerine hybrid). Lots of shochu, a short but sweet selection of nihon-shu, and oodles of cocktails give you more reasons to sit and linger, while dainty servings of chazuke - twelve kinds, as a matter of fact - and other small dishes provide delicious distractions from the hectic world outside. Budget around Y3000 for drinks and a light meal. No English spoken.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1-21-2, Itoh Bldg 3/4F. Open 6pm-3am (LO) daily.
Hazelburn (Bar). 5285-1470
Hazelburn offers an impressive line-up of Scottish whiskies, along with English draft ales and well-prepared Scottish and English pub food. [See FULL REVIEW.]
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1-6-6, Hashimoto Bldg B1F. Open 6pm-3am (5am Fri, Sat) daily.
Alps (Izakaya). 5292-3040
Alps isn't exactly destination dining, but sometimes it's good to know a place where you can just show up with a group of twenty people and no reservation. Plus they're open until 9am every night but Sunday! The Y1500 party menu supplies ample, decent-quality food, and drinks are surprisingly cheap. (Y500 table charge.)
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 2-35-2. Open 5pm-9am daily.
!Sungari (Russian). 3209-4937
Well-prepared Russian standards like Chicken Kiev, and lots of vodka.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 2-45-6. (on "American Boulevard" across from station) Open 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.

2-chome, Gyoenmae

!Krungtep (Thai). 3358-9085
This casual spot offers simple market-style Thai food with good, authentic flavors, plus an inexpensive wine list.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-12-4. Open 11:30am-midnight (3am weekends). Closed Mondays.
Pit Inn (Jazz club). 3354-2024
It may be smoky and cramped, but you can hear some of the most interesting local and international jazz in town here. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-12-4, Accord Bldg B1F. Open 2:30-5, 7:30-10:30pm daily.
Arty Farty (Gay bar). 5362-9720
One of Shinjuku's larger gay bars, with a good sound system (mostly house, R&B and hiphop) and a comfortable, lounge-style setup.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-11-7, 2F. (across from the main entrance to Shinjuku Pit Inn, up on the second floor) Open 5pm-5am daily.
Aiiro Cafe (Gay bar). 6273-0740
Replacing the long-running Advocates bar on Shinjuku Ni-chome's main thoroughfare, this open-air bar attracts a mixed, mostly gay crowd every night of the week.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-18-1. Open 6pm-5am daily.
!Sansar (Nepalese). 3354-8553
Excellent curries, tandoori items, and Nepalese specialties from an all-Nepali crew. The chapati is outstanding.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 6-13-8. Open 11am-2:30, 5-11pm daily.
Fun (Chinese). 3341-8100
Great nouvelle Chinese cuisine, with filling multi-course dinner menus from Y3500.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 6-7-3. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Keitel (German). 3354-5057
Typical German dishes and selected German wines and beers from this long-running establishment, now in a new location. Budget around Y5000 for dinner.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 5-6-4, Diamond Mansion 1F. Open noon-2:30, 6-10pm. Closed Mondays.
Pelota (Spanish). 5925-8605
This handy Spanish wine bar offers ten wines by the glass, priced at around Y600-900, plus good tapas dishes to go with them. Budget around Y3000 in the evening for food and drink.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-5-15, Dai-ichi Sanko Bldg 1F. Open noon-3, 5pm-midnight daily.
Jip (Wine bar). 6380-1178
If you've ever wanted to try Japanese wines, but don't want to gamble with buying completely unknown bottles, Jip Bar is the place to check out. This specialty wine bistro pours from a rotating list of twenty Japanese wines by the glass at any given time. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-7-1. Open 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
One of Tokyo's better Turkish spots, offering a good selection of shish kebabs, Turkish pizzas, salads, and other authentic fare. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-7-2. Open 11:30am-11:30pm daily.
Zuien Bekkan (Chinese). 3351-3511
This long-time neighborhood standby is nearly as famous for their rude service and painfully crowded seating arrangements as for their food, which is quite good.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-7-4. Open 11am-9:45pm (LO) daily.
Rainbow Burritos (Gay bar). 090-9834-4842
This tiny (eight-seat) bar, located on the third floor of a very old commercial building, serves solid Cali-Mex-style burritos and chimichangas along with margaritas and mojitos. Burritos come in chicken, beef and vegetable variations and are priced from Y500-800 depending on the size. Take-out is also available.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-1-32, Shinjuku Bldg 303. Open 6pm-midnight (Fri, Sat -2am). Closed Mondays, Tuesdays.
Papera (Indian). 3350-0208
The lunchtime buffet offers four curries and a few side dishes, but the lunch sets might be a better deal if you know what you want. Lunch sets include one or two curries, salad, drinks and nan or rice, and are priced at Y690 or Y780. The wider dinnertime menu includes tandoori items, with live music most evenings.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-8-1. Open 11am-4:30, 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Cocoro Musubi (Izakaya). 3355-3577
Sake is the star at this friendly little izakaya, with a smallish menu of charcoal-grilled seafood, meat and vegetables designed to go well with your drinks. Budget around Y6000 in the evening for food and drink.
mapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 2-8-17, SY Bldg 1F. Open 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Yamachan (Bar). 5315-4688
A very casual, all-you-can-drink premium sake bar, Yamachan combines the best aspects of an industry sake-tasting event (lots of varieties freely available, at a reasonable all-inclusive price) and a typical urban sake-tasting bar (a carefully chosen selection of bottles, and chairs where you can sit down). The bar's unique self-pour policy is perhaps the best feature - it means that you can try out little sips from lots of different bottles until you find something you love. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-12-10, 2F. Open 6-10pm. Closed Sundays, Mondays.
Chef's (Chinese). 3352-9350
Fairly reliable Chinese cooking, including Shanghai-style crab. Budget around Y5000-7000 at dinnertime.
mapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-24-1. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!!Will (Yoshoku). 3358-4161
The all-pork Hamburg steak here is made from premium Iwanaka pork from Iwate prefecture, and it's remarkably tasty - a revelation in how good this simple dish can get. The ground meat is a mix of four different cuts - shoulder, skirt steak, belly and cheek - resulting in an ideal balance of flavors and fat content. The patties are quite thick and almost lozenge-shaped, cooked to a juicy medium-rare consistency with slight grill-charring on the surface. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-3-8, YKB Shinjuku Gyoen Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-8pm (LO) daily.
Bamboo Beer Pub (Beer bar). 3352-5356
This cozy basement bar attracts a crowd of neighborhood regulars with a selection of craft beers and a simple food menu. The four craft beers on tap on any given day generally include a mix of interesting Japanese and US small breweries.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-31-3, Dia Palace B1F. Open 5pm-2am daily.
!Vector Beer (Izakaya). 6380-0742
It may look like just another Tokyo craft-beer bar, but Vector serves up an appealing menu of beef-tongue dishes and other solid izakaya fare, making it a popular dining destination as well as a bar. The charcoal-grilled sumibiyaki tongue (Y980) in particular is a crowd favorite - slightly chewy and cut a bit thinner than average, with a nice charcoal-infused flavor that's complemented by the accompanying wasabi and crunchy pickled hakusai. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-36-5, Hotel Park Inn 1F. Open 5pm-1am (LO, Sat -11:30). Closed Sundays.
!!V.B. Factory (Beer bar). 5315-4744
This second outlet of Vector Beer specializes in IPAs - of their seventeen taps, twelve are devoted to various Japanese IPAs on any given day. Glasses are Y450, pints Y750, and three-glass tasting flights are Y1000, with a Y300 table charge that includes a bit of food.
mapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-36-7. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
La Boheme (Italian). 5366-2242
This spacious multi-level branch of the budget Italian chain is open all afternoon, and convenient when you're visiting Shinjuku Gyoen.
no smokinglateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-1-7. (along the park, near the northeast (Okido) entrance) Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Aureole (Western). 3355-8447
European-style home cooking, wrap sandwiches and other "wrap cuisine" is the focus of the menu at this casual park-side cafe. Full-course vegetarian dinners are available, and everything on the menu is ready for take-out.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-3-12. (along the N side of Shinjuku Gyoen) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
Le Bistrot da Cote (French). 3359-3066
Rich, hearty traditional French cuisine in a crowded bistro-style restaurant near Shinjuku Gyoen.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-6-11. Open noon-2, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Armwood Cottage (Cafe). 5935-8897
True to its name, the Armwood Cottage is Tokyo's answer to a log cabin in the mountains, with tall concrete buildings standing in for trees. The space is intimate and inviting, dominated by rough wooden surfaces and decorated with rustic kitsch - a deer head trophy here, model vintage trucks there. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-10-5, 2F. Open 11:30am-midnight (Sat 2pm-). Closed Sundays.
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