LO : "last order"
: Open late  : Open Sundays  : Notable decor  : Wine served in Riedel glasses
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Shinjuku
Picks:
Western: Breizh Cafe (galettes), Tavolo di Fiori (Italian)
Japanese: Tsunahachi Rin (tempura); Maimon (yakitori); Daidaiya
Ethnic: Sansar (Nepalese), Din Tai Fung (dim sum), Kowloon (Chinese), Krungthep (Thai)
Drinks: exotic cocktails at Tiki Tiki; wine at Marugo, Il Bacaro
Best decor: Ken's Chanto Dining, Daidaiya, Samurai
This guide covers the area east of Shinjuku station, including Kabukicho and Shinjuku Gyoen. It also includes the My City and Takashimaya Times Square complexes.
For the area west of the station (including Lumine, Halc, and Southern Terrace), please see the Nishi-Shinjuku guide.
See area restaurant map.
Gyoenmae/ 2-chome
This spacious multi-level branch of the budget Italian chain is open all afternoon, and convenient when you're visiting Shinjuku Gyoen. | |
European-style home cooking, wrap sandwiches and other "wrap cuisine" is the focus of the menu at this casual park-side cafe. Full-course vegetarian dinners are available, and everything on the menu is ready for take-out.  Shinjuku 1-3-12. (along the N side of Shinjuku Gyoen) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Rich, hearty traditional French cuisine in a crowded bistro-style restaurant near Shinjuku Gyoen. Shinjuku 1-6-11. Open noon-2, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Mondays. | |
True to its name, the Armwood Cottage is Tokyo's answer to a log cabin in the mountains, with tall concrete buildings standing in for trees. The space is intimate and inviting, dominated by rough wooden surfaces and decorated with rustic kitsch - a deer head trophy here, model vintage trucks there. True to its name, the Armwood Cottage is Tokyo's answer to a log cabin in the mountains, with tall concrete buildings standing in for trees. The space is intimate and inviting, dominated by rough wooden surfaces and decorated with rustic kitsch - a deer head trophy here, model vintage trucks there.
Above-average cafe standards like rice bowls and pastas are on offer at lunchtime (Y850), with more serious food in the evening (stewed spareribs for Y1500 are their specialty). Beer and wine start at Y600, cocktails at Y750. It's the perfect place to have a drink after taking a leisurely stroll through nearby Shinjuku Gyoen: draft beer, wine, and sangria are half price every day from 6-8pm. [Show more] [Show less] Shinjuku 1-10-5, 2F. Open 11:30am-midnight (Sat 2pm-). Closed Sundays. | |
A Kyushu-style chicken specialty restaurant. Reservations required; full-course dinners from Y7,000. Shinjuku 1-23-11. Open 6-9pm. Closed Saturdays, Sundays. This long-time neighborhood standby is nearly as famous for their rude service and painfully crowded seating arrangements as for their food, which is quite good. Shinjuku 2-7-4. Open 11am-9:45pm (LO) daily. | |
Excellent curries, tandoori items, and Nepalese specialties from an all-Nepali crew. The chapati is outstanding. Shinjuku 6-13-8. Open 11am-2:30, 5-11pm daily. Great nouvelle Chinese cuisine, with filling multi-course dinner menus from Y3500. Shinjuku 6-7-3. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
This casual spot offers simple market-style Thai food with good, authentic flavors, plus an inexpensive wine list. Shinjuku 2-12-4. Open 11:30am-midnight (3am weekends). Closed Mondays. | |
3-chome east to Meiji-dori
Inexpensive jizake (regional sake) and good grilled fish. Seating can get a little cramped during peak hours, so check out the much larger Suehiro-dori branch just around the corner. No English spoken. | |
 Dora (Izakaya). 3226-0919 This basement branch of the Donjaca chain offers a wide menu of izakaya-style fare and Japanese sake. The Japanese dishes are much better than their multi-cultural experiments. Tasty, sometimes unusual pizzas and well-constructed pastas at this budget Italian cafe chain. Open all afternoon. Shinjuku 3-1-26, Shinjuku Marui Annex 8F. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily. Shousuke is a spacious, two-story affair - downstairs there's a big sushi counter, and upstairs are several semi-private booths for two, four or more, separated by bamboo blinds for privacy. The decor is tasteful Japanese modern, with polished wood surfaces and subdued lighting. Given the very pretty setting and the modest menu prices, we were quite unprepared for the quality of the food, which is simply spectacular. [See FULL REVIEW.] One of the better Turkish restaurants in town, Bosphoras offers a wide selection of shish kebabs, Turkish pizzas, salads, and other authentic fare. Shinjuku 3-6-11, 2F. Open 5-11:30pm daily. Superlative izakaya-style fare in a lively, noisy setting. They have an impressive and ever-changing selection of jizake (regional sake), plus good sashimi and grilled fish. Intriguing original creations include maguro kimuchii yukke, made with raw tuna and raw egg and flavored with kimchee and sesame oil. No English spoken. | |
The food here is prepared with traditional Chinese medicinal herbs; dinner runs around Y7,000 per person. Shinjuku 3-6-9. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays. Choose from about fifteen wines by the glass or bottle, or pick a Latour or Mouton from the back and put it on your expense account. France is amply represented, with biodynamic wines comprising nearly half of the choices on the frequently changing list. While Marugo's laid-back modern interior recalls Manhattan, the tuxedo-clad staff is pure Tokyo. But don't let appearances fool you: the service is mannerly and attentive but never stuffy at this popular Shinjuku 3-chome spot. Choose from about fifteen wines by the glass or bottle, or pick a Latour or Mouton from the back and put it on your expense account. France is amply represented, with biodynamic wines comprising nearly half of the choices on the frequently changing list.
Small plates of olives, anchovy-avocado canapes, and cheeses start at 500 yen; earthy tripe stew and creamy pork and duck liver pate go for about Y700. You can order something more substantial - grilled lamb chops, pasta, or pizza - if you're feeling really peckish. On the fifth of every month the bar features a special selection of premium wines hailing from its namesake, Margaux. Menu in Japanese only, but a little English spoken. [Show more] [Show less] | |
This second branch of the popular and always-packed Marugo wine bar serves two dozen wines by the glass, about half of them French, with a new selection every day. The food menu is Italian and very reasonably priced. Get there early to avoid the crowds. [Go to branch review] Noodles, stir-fries and other typical Hong Kong-style street stall dishes, prepared exceptionally well. Their "dragon ramen" has giant, tasty chunks of kakuni (stewed pork) and a bit of octopus for variety. Shinjuku 3-10-7. Open 11:30am-11:30pm daily. | |
Esogie's owner Lucky Isiwe has recreated a little slice of Lagos in Shinjuku 3-Chome. Nigerian funk plays on the bar's powerful sound system, and there's always something good cooking on the stove. Esogie's owner Lucky Isiwe has recreated a little slice of Lagos in Shinjuku San-Chome. Nigerian funk plays on the bar's powerful sound system, and there's always something good cooking on the stove - deep-fried Akara bean cakes served with creamy cabbage slaw, fiery Jollof rice pilaf with chicken and peppers, chewy sweet and savory slices of fried plantain with a side of red beans.
Sit back and enjoy the chicken stew flavored with mildly bitter egusi seeds with a thickly concentrated (and potent) Nigerian-brewed Guiness. Budget around Y3500 for dinner and drinks. [Show more] [Show less] Shinjuku 3-11-2, Muraki Bldg 3F. Open 6pm-midnight (Fri, Sat -4am). Closed Wednesdays. Exotic-sounding but unchallenging dishes from China, Korea and Southeast Asia fill the menu at this long-established and popular pan-Asian chain. Shinjuku 3-13-2. Open 5pm-midnight daily. Yakitori, fried chicken, and other varieties of chicken, along with some interesting regional specialities of the Nagoya area. Venetian-style specialties, with a casual Venice-style wine and tapas stand-up bar in front. There are usually a few dozen tiny cichetti appetizers to nibble on, ranging from single spears of asparagus to mussels and sardines. Wines at the bar range from Y200-580 per glass, with some unusual and interesting choices. [See FULL REVIEW.] Shinjuku 3-4-8, Saison Plaza B1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10pm (LO) daily. | |
At Tokyo's original Tiki lounge, wooden masks glower, faux torches blaze, and hula dancers shake it, shake it, baby. The kitsch is ubiquitous, self-aware, and executed with formidable slickness. If you're in the right mood, the bar at Tiki Tiki is a fun and convenient spot to meet for a drink with friends. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
Reliable French cooking in one of Tokyo's tiniest restaurants. Dinner is Y2,800 for three courses, and they offer a surprisingly wide selection of entrees, cheeses, and wines, considering the restaurant's size. Shinjuku 5-17-6, B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10:30pm (LO) daily. Typical German dishes and selected German wines and beers. Budget around Y5000 for dinner. Shinjuku 5-6-4. Open noon-2:30, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
Kabukicho
Nanpu (Okinawan). 3200-1285 A tiny, artfully decorated drinking place in the middle of one of Kabukicho's sleazier blocks, Nanpu attracts a strange assortment of customers. The prices listed on the menu seem to have no relation to the final bill, which can be quite a bit higher. The food is outstanding, though, and even the stir-fried champuru and the pork dishes aren't a bit greasy. Raw goat meat is one of their specialties, if you're brave enough. Kabukicho 1-11-3. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays and holidays. A good selection of wines and spirits and a dozen or so European beers at discount prices, plus random imported food items. Kabukicho 1-12-9. (on the main central street, across from Tokyo Kaisen Ichiba) Open 11am-4am daily. Narcis (Jazz kissaten). 3209-6900 The bustling Kabukicho neighborhood may seem like a strange place for a jazz kissa, but Narcis is a great spot for listening to quiet jazz, and their stylish interior design is reminiscent of old cafes in New York City's East Village. The tiny cafe-bar is filled with African-style furniture and beautiful flowers arranged by the mama-san. The bustling Kabukicho neighborhood may seem like a strange place for a jazz kissa, but Narcis is a great spot for listening to quiet jazz, and their stylish interior design is reminiscent of old cafes in New York City's East Village. The tiny cafe-bar is filled with African-style furniture and beautiful flowers arranged by the mama-san.
The music played here is mainly cutting-edge European avant-garde jazz and rare old vinyl. The friendly proprietress is happy to take requests from their big collection of vinyl and CDs. They serve good coffee (Y500), and Kirin beer comes in the small-size bottles that were popular in the 1960's and 70's (Y700). There's no table charge. [Show more] [Show less] Kabukicho 1-13-6, 2F. Open 5-11pm. Closed Sundays. | |
Friendly service and high-quality shabu-shabu available until the wee hours of the morning. One of Tokyo's best sardine specialty restaurants, with branches in Higashi-Ginza and Omotesando. Kabukicho 1-15-8. Open 5pm-midnight (food LO 11:30pm). Closed Sundays. The smart drink list offers eleven choices of popular umeshu like Saika and Kakutama, plus a few liqueurs based on anzu (apricot), yuzu and even decopon (the orange-tangerine hybrid). Lots of shochu, a short but sweet selection of nihon-shu, and oodles of cocktails give you more reasons to sit and linger, while dainty servings of chazuke - twelve kinds, as a matter of fact - and other small dishes provide delicious distractions from the hectic world outside. Budget around Y3000 for drinks and a light meal. No English spoken. | |
Ban Thai is famous as one of Tokyo's original Thai restaurants. It hasn't improved with age. Kabukicho 1-23-14, 3F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-11pm (LO) daily. Hazelburn offers an impressive line-up of Scottish whiskies, along with English draft ales and well-prepared Scottish and English pub food. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
Alps (Izakaya). 5292-3040 Alps isn't exactly destination dining, but sometimes it's good to know a place where you can just show up with a group of twenty people and no reservation. Plus they're open until 9am every night but Sunday! The Y1500 party menu supplies ample, decent-quality food, and drinks are surprisingly cheap. (Y500 table charge.) | |
Seafood-heavy paellas, Spanish omelettes and other typical Spanish fare in extremely unpretentious surroundings; full-course dinners from around Y4000. Kabukicho 2-42-11, Casa Shinjuku Bldg. Open 6-11pm (LO). Closed Mondays. Well-prepared Russian standards like Chicken Kiev, and lots of vodka. Kabukicho 2-45-6. (on "American Boulevard" across from station) Open 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Meiji-dori to Shinjuku station
A lively "market-style" restaurant, with the emphasis on top-quality ingredients and simple preparation. Grilled meats and seafood, brick-oven-baked pizzas and assorted pastas make up most of the menu, and there are always plenty of daily specials. Shinjuku 3-14-1, Isetan 7F. Open 11am-9:15pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays. | |
Health-oriented but not really vegetarian fare (there are lots of fish dishes) in a casual French style. | |
Inexpensive Thai street-market fare, including lots of stir-fries and curries in the Y800 range. Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 4F. Open 11:30am-9:30pm (LO). Closed some Wednesdays. Choose from a huge a la carte menu of reasonably priced dishes, including a big selection of pizzas, at this old Shinjuku standby. The twelve-item hot and cold appetizer selection is an excellent place to start. Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 5F. Open 11am-3, 6-11pm. Closed Wednesdays. | |
Standard Okinawan fare and a huge selection of awamori. Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 5F. Open 11am-10pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays. A branch of one of Tokyo's best kushiage chains. (Kushiage is deep-fried meat, seafood and vegetable morsels served on skewers.) Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 8F. Open 11:30am-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays. Stylishly modern and surprisingly spacious, Meal Muji makes a pleasant retreat from the crowds of Shinjuku's shopping district. The decor is bright and cheerful, with ubiquitous sleek blond wood furnishings set off by clay-colored stucco walls and lots of greenery. Stylishly modern and surprisingly spacious, Meal Muji makes a pleasant retreat from the crowds of Shinjuku's shopping district. The decor is bright and cheerful, with ubiquitous sleek blond wood furnishings set off by clay-colored stucco walls and lots of greenery.
There's a big variety of hot and cold deli items at lunchtime (till 3pm), with five items plus bread for Y1050. A typical spread might include Thai vegetable curry, grilled tomatoes, chicken-liver salad and ratatouille, all incorporating top-quality organic ingredients. In the afternoons you can find sandwiches, curry and quiche plus assorted desserts, with a bigger a la carte menu after five. Wines start at Y1200 for a carafe, with several organic wines to choose from as well as draft beer and cocktails. [Show more] [Show less] | |
You'll find some of Shinjuku's best Italian cooking here, along with a wide selection of wines. The trattoria is under corporate management (Isetan), so you won't find too many surprises, just solid, by-the-book Tuscan fare - nice pastas and pizzas and excellent main dishes. Full-course dinners start at Y3,800, or you can order a la carte, including many daily specials. Shinjuku 3-16-13. Open 11:30am-3 (LO), 5:30-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Modern Japanese izakaya fare with Korean influences, from the management of the Osaka-based Daidaiya chain. Shinjuku 3-17-4, Remino Bldg. 8F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily. An impressive selection of wines from around the world, varying from the reasonably priced to the very extravagant. They also do up a nice cheese platter. The atmosphere is more formal than average. Friendly service and lots of vegetarian dishes. Shinjuku 3-30-11. (Across from Isetan, on Shinjuku-dori) Open 11am-9:30pm (LO) daily. The main branch of one of Japan's most successful tempura restaurants. They've maintained their high standards while managing to keep prices very reasonable. Call ahead of time to avoid waiting on line. Shinjuku 3-31-8. (from Shinjuku-dori, go down the small street to the left of Mitsukoshi) Open 11:15am-10pm (LO) daily. Excellent grilled chicken, sushi and much more in this glitzy, high-rise branch of the popular Shinjuku yakitori restaurant. There's a good selection of premium sake to go with your food; dinner with drinks averages around Y6000. [Go to branch review] | |
Spicy chicken wings, yakitori and Nagoya miso specialties. Shinjuku 3-34-16, Ikeda Plaza 5F. Open 5-11pm (LO) daily. Fan (Misc. Southeast Asian). 3341-6820 Inexpensive and spicy Asian-styled dishes in a lively, student-dominated atmosphere. The Asian buffet lunch is Y950; filling dinners start at Y2300, with a la carte items from Y400. Shinjuku 3-34-1, B1F. Open 11:30-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily. Thousands of maneki neko (good-luck cat statues) fill the interior of this spacious cafe-bar. There's a counter and several tables, making this a good venue for a small party. Service is friendly and the air isn't too smoky. The manager seems to be a big fan of Johnny Griffin, whose records are displayed prominently. Thousands of maneki neko (good-luck cat statues) fill the interior of this spacious cafe-bar. There's a counter and several tables, making this a good venue for a small party. Service is friendly and the air isn't too smoky. The manager seems to be a big fan of Johnny Griffin, whose records are displayed prominently.
Haiku-related events are held here regularly. The food and drink are reasonably priced - beers and whiskies start at Y680 - and the pastas, pizzas, fried noodles and other dishes are above average. There's a table charge of Y300 from 6-9pm and Y500 after 9pm. Just a few minutes walk from the south exit of Shinjuku station. [Show more] [Show less] Shinjuku 3-35-5, Tera Bldg 5F. Open 6pm-midnight (Sat. 3pm-mid) daily. | |
Very good budget pastas and other Italian fare, a good wine selection and convenient hours. The deluxe edition of one of Tokyo's most famous tempura shops, with prices starting at Y2500 for lunch and Y6000 for tempura dinner. Shinjuku 3-28-4. Open 11:30am-3, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
The interior by architect Yasumichi Morita is simply thrilling - playful, elegant and subversive all at the same time. The menu features Korean-influenced modern Japanese with lots of unusual ingredients. One outstanding choice is the fresh salmon stuffed with white kidney beans in a creamy, lightly curried sauce with porcini mushrooms and sansai (Y1,200). Japanese regional dishes from various parts of the country. Lunch from Y700, full-course dinners for Y5,000-Y10,000. There's also an a la carte menu, and many regional sake brands. Shinjuku 3-36-6. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily. Kaiseki service at accessible prices, although the nightly koto performances are a bit cliched. An 18-course mini-kaiseki menu is Y8000. Shinjuku 3-37-11, Yasuyo Bldg 6-9F. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily. Spectacular "nouvelle Japonaise" cuisine in a stunning modern setting. Standout items on the menu include cold stuffed cabbage kimchee with cashew nuts, minced tuna and Korean bean paste (Y780), sauteed foie gras served on lotus-root cakes (Y1600), and homemade Satsuma pork sausages with a fresh wasabi-mayonnaise sauce. Spectacular "nouvelle Japonaise" cuisine in a stunning modern setting. Standout items on the menu include cold stuffed cabbage kimchee with cashew nuts, minced tuna and Korean bean paste (Y780), sauteed foie gras served on lotus-root cakes (Y1600), and homemade Satsuma pork sausages with a fresh wasabi-mayonnaise sauce.
There's also a large a la carte sushi and tempura selection, with items like scallop tempura with green-tea salt (Y200 a piece). The wines are nothing special, but the house sake is a very drinkable Tsukasa-botan at Y1,000 a glass, and there's a full cocktail menu. Plan on spending Y5,000-10,000 per person for a superb meal; reservations are a must. [Show more] [Show less] | |
This upscale chain izakaya is known for their excellent grilled meats and vegetables and their well-chosen sake and shochu lists. The decor is sleek Japanese modern. Budget around Y6000-7000 per person with drinks. Shinjuku 3-37-12, Shinjuku Nowa Bldg. 8F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily. Fantastic, authentic Taiwanese-style dumplings; including the hot-broth-filled shoronpo dumplings for which they're most famous. [Go to branch review] | |
Good American-style cuisine including rotisserie chicken, burgers and pizzas. Weekend/holiday brunch is served 11am-5pm. Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 12F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Delicious Bretagne-style artisanal sweet crepes and savory buckwheat galettes are served along with hard cider and soft drinks imported from the region. The conveniently located cafe looks out over an outdoor garden atop the Takashimaya/Times Square shopping complex. | |
Fresh, skillfully prepared tempura at friendly prices. Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 13F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Imahan (Shabu-shabu). 5361-1871 Shabu-shabu and sukiyaki made with Ohmi beef, from Y3800 at dinner. Lunch is Y2300-2500. Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 14F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Besides the usual tonkatsu they offer variations like deep-fried shrimp and scallops, yuba (tofu skin) croquettes, and nice side dishes like chawanmushi, tofu salad and kakuni stewed pork. The original shop is in Kyoto. | |
Deluxe, full-course tempura dinners - nine or ten pieces plus side orders - are priced Y4,000-10,000 at this convenient branch of an old tempura shop with a 120-year history. Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 14F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Shinjuku station
A casual cafe/bar/restaurant with a nice view (out over the Shinjuku station tracks). The menu includes enticing "French barbecue" items like quail with marmalade and pork kushiyaki with garlic and lemongrass. | |
Oysters, grilled dishes (including nice grilled chicken) and a good collection of rare sakes. | |
300 different kinds of awamori (Ok. brandy), and reasonably good food, including some unusual dishes. You can consult a multi-axis chart to find the flavor profiles of various awamori, then try a three-glass tasting set for Y1000. | |
Top-class tempura and seasonal dishes, and entertainingly elaborate presentation; condiments include various flavors of grated daikon and five different types of gourmet salt. The sake list is unusual in that it includes various warmed sakes besides the usual chilled ones. [See FULL REVIEW.] Shinjuku 3-38-1, Lumine EST Shinjuku 7F. Open 11am-11pm daily. | |
Thai-style "sukiyaki" (fish balls and other delicacies boiled in a broth at your table) is the specialty of this Bangkok-based chain. Shinjuku 3-38-1, Lumine EST Shinjuku 8F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. Oysters, fresh seafood cocktails, and a few Cajun specialties like gumbo at a stylish counter bar. The seafood "pan roasts" are nicely done, and the oysters are always top quality. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
You've probably seen it as you walk from Shinjuku station to Takashimaya Times Square - a nicely landscaped terrace, a bright yellow sign, and a metallic, retro-50s trailer home that's been converted into a grill. [See FULL REVIEW.] Shinjuku 4-1-7, Journal Standard 3F. Open 11:30am-8:30pm (LO) daily. | |
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