Shinjuku Station

!Kokekokko (Yakitori). 3345-1141
Shamo is a breed of game bird known for its tasty, slightly chewy meat, and it's the bird of choice on the busy grills at Kokekokko. This modest-looking yakitoriya serves the usual selection of chicken parts on skewers - all very high in quality - along with beautiful grilled vegetables and appealing side dishes, including chicken sashimi. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-1, Palette Town Bldg. B2F. Open 4-10:30pm (LO) daily.
!!Cafe Troisgros (French). 5325-2493
Cafe Troisgros, a casual dining spot from Michelin-starred chef Michel Troisgros, turns out speedy, well-prepared lunches that offer good value for money (from Y1500). During off-peak hours (10-11am, 2-6pm), Cafe Troisgros's teatime menu offers the same frothy coffee drinks and sweet treats you might expect at places like Afternoon Tea, but with an upscale, gourmet twist. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-3, Odakyu Dept. Store 8F. Open 11am-2, 6-8pm (LO) daily.
Oshima (Japanese regional). 3348-8080
A great place to explore Kaga-ryori, the regional cuisine of Kanazawa, on the Sea of Japan coast. Lunch from Y1,800, dinner from Y2,800, and special Kaga kaiseki from Y6,500. They also have branches in Ginza, Shinagawa and Yokohama.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-5-1, Odakyu Halc 8F. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily.
Mango Tree Cafe (Thai). 6380-2535
The dining room is pleasantly decorated and the food here is very well prepared - including some excellent grilled chicken - but the dinner menu is too small and limited to get excited about. Lunch is a better bet, with a Y1600 buffet. Dinner averages around Y2500 without drinks.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1 7F. Open 11am-2:30, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
Arms Picnic (Burgers). 3466-5974
A convenient department-store outlet of the legendary Sangubashi burger shop, this Shinjuku branch of Arms offers smaller, picnic-size burger as an option. Besides the usual bacon, cheese, etc., the menu generally includes some interesting special seasonal toppings.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1, B1F. Open 10am-10pm daily.
Khao San (Thai). 5909-7450
Good Bangkok street-stall food in this department-store basement, including dishes like Nam Phrik Kapi (shrimp and chili paste with vegetables), stir-fries and spicy salads. Most of the menu is available for take-out, and popular items like curries and pad thai are ready to go immediately.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1, B1F. Open 10am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
!Keishoan (Yakitori). 3349-1015
Fantastic charcoal-grilled, free-range chicken and choice sake in a comfortable setting. In addition to a la carte, they offer unusual kaiseki-style menus for Y4000-5000 (reserve in advance). [See FULL REVIEW.]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Shinjuku Lumine 1, 6F. Open 11am-3, 5-11pm daily.
Vietnam Alice (Vietnamese). 5339-2033
Good, modern Vietnamese cooking from the "Iron Chef" who founded the Queen Alice chain. Their basket of assorted spring rolls is especially recommended. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime. During the afternoon you can stop in for Vietnamese desserts or a late lunch.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Shinjuku Lumine 1, 6F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Sarabeth's (American). 5357-7535
It's breakfast time all day long at this famous New York-based restaurant. The menu features Eggs Benedict, lemon-ricotta pancakes, "Farmer's Omelet," fluffy French toast and a good selection of pastries served with their seasonal fruit jams. The "Four Flowers" fruit juice is a refreshing blend of banana, orange, pomegranate and pineapple.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-38-2, Shinjuku Lumine 2, 2F. Open 9am-9pm (LO) daily.

Near the station

Musashi (Ramen). 3363-4634
The original branch of a famous and very popular ramen chain, this shop usually has a line to get in. In addition to the usual options of toppings, you can also choose the size of your bowl, and whether you want strong or weak broth. The kakuni (stewed pork) is especially recommended.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 7-2-6, K1 Bldg 1F. Open 11am-9:30pm daily.
Nakamoto (Ramen). 3363-3321
The tanmen noodles here are very spicy, but the soup has a depth of flavor the goes beyond one-note hotness. You can pick from several variations, with different levels of spiciness.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 7-8-11, Biwara Bldg B1F. Open 9am-2:30am daily.
Tejimaul (Korean). 5348-5535
This comfortable basement spot calls itself a makkoli bar, with a surprising 11 varieties of the Korean version of "cloudy" sake. But once you get over the novelty of the drinks list, you may come to think of Tejimaul more as an outstanding pork restaurant, serving three types of heirloom pork from a small farm in Yamagata. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 7-10-10, Nishimura Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.
Zoetrope (Bar). 3363-0162
Perhaps the best bar in the world for Japanese whiskey, with some 300 varieties available, including some rare bottles that are no longer sold in stores. They also serve craft beers from Osaka's Minoh Brewery, as well as Japanese rum and grappa and some imported liquors. The light food menu includes home-smoked dishes. Often old movies are shown (silently) in the background while you drink.
latemapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 7-10-14, Gaia Bldg 4, 3F. Open 7pm-4am. Closed Sundays, some Monday.
Himonoya (Izakaya). 3369-8088
One of the few late-night spots on the west side of Shinjuku station, this budget izakaya offers a good selection of sake and a wide range of food, including many varieties of grilled himono (dried fish). Lunch is served until 4pm.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 7-10-18, Otakibashi Bldg B1F. Open 11am-5am daily.
Naginicai (Ramen). 3365-0296
This relaxed second-floor branch of the Nagi chain offers an evening menu of izakaya-style side dishes to nibble on with drinks, including a "ramen-shop omelet" and gyoza topped with ratatouille. The limited ramen offerings in the evening are quite unusual - a tasty shellfish ramen made with steamed mussels and clams as well as ramen topped with grilled cheese. At lunchtime they serve tsukemen, including some unique, very wide lasagna-esque noodles.
mapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 7-13-7. Open 6-11:30pm. Closed 3rd Sunday.
Kushiya Monogatari (Kushiage). 5321-6166
Straight from Osaka, this popular national chain offers all-you-can-eat kushi-age - deep-fried grilled fish, meat and vegetables on skewers. Every table is furnished with its own deep-fryer, so you choose what you like from the refrigerated cabinets and then cook it up for yourself. Y2500 covers ninety minutes of deep-fry fun; all-you-can-drink beer and cocktail deals are also available. Lunch is served on weekends. Cash only.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-3-1, Sunflower Bldg 5F. Open 4-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Stein Haus (German). 5908-3558
Serving relatively expensive German beers and decent pub grub in a cavelike basement, this branch of the Franziskaner group is worth knowing about mostly for their late-night hours.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-4-6, Ida Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-5am daily.
Sungari (Russian). 3343-5047
This basement branch of Sungari serves the same tasty Russian food as the main branch in Kabukicho, but in a plainer, more subdued dining space.
mapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-7-2, Subaru Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 4:30-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Kaasan Shinjuku ekimae (Izakaya). 3344-0771
Who can resist a restaurant called "Mom's", especially when the kitchen and waitress staff is a squadron of fifty-ish, motherly types who look like they'd be disappointed in you for not finishing your vegetables. But the main draw here is the sake -- they promise a "journey through Japan by sake", and they stock close to 100 brands, from every part of the country, with most varieties running Y500-Y800 per glass. There's also a respectable menu of izakaya-style food, with grilled chicken wings, duck steak, and plenty of seasonal items. No English.
mapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-11-11, B1F. (on the side street directly behind Yodobashi Camera honten) Open 11am-3, 4-11:20pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Yoshimoto (Izakaya). 3348-9658
The "kikizake set," or sake tasting flight, is a great invention - instead of just one kind of sake you get to try three different varieties at the same time, comparing flavors and aromas as you sip your way through smaller-sized glasses. Some izakaya offer basic starter-level flights aimed at sake neophytes (e.g. sweet vs. dry vs. cloudy), but Yoshimoto takes it to another level entirely, with more than a dozen tasting flights designed to appeal to sake aficionados. It's an excellent opportunity to explore a lot of different brews in one evening without falling over, especially if you come with a group and share. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-13-3, Nishi-Shin Bldg 3F. Open 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Xi'an (Chinese). 3347-5130
The city of Xi'an is located along the historical Silk Road trade route, and the cuisine from that region takes full advantage of the many spices that were part of the trade. The menu here includes well-spiced lamb dishes, Xi'an-style cold appetizers and toshomen noodles, and a number of unusual dimsum items. Around Y3500 at dinnertime.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-12-1, Shinjuku Sanhei Bldg 4F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Watami (Izakaya). 5339-2415
This sprawling (330-seat) chain izakaya offers good value for money, and they can often accomodate large groups on short notice. They're also one of the few late-night options in this neighborhood. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-13-1, Kesa Bldg 3-6F. Open 5pm-3am (Fri, Sat -5am) daily.
Toriyoshi (Yakitori). 5909-8150
Peppery chicken wings and other creative chicken cuisine from this popular chain. Budget around Y3000-4000 at dinnertime.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-10-2, 110 Bldg 11F. Open 11:30am-4am daily.
Ishikarigawa (Robatayaki). 3342-4769
Tasty grilled fish and other Hokkaido-style fare.
mapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-15-4. Open 5pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
Ringer Hut (Japanese regional). 5339-9313
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-16-4. Open 24 hours a day.
Donjaca (Nishiguchi-ten) (Izakaya). 3344-3469
Imaginative pub-style Japanese food and regional sake at great prices.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-18-4, Kyoshin Bldg. B1F. Open 5pm-3am (LO) daily.

Skyscraper district

Hibiki (Nomura Bldg) (Izakaya). 5909-7180
Good grilled chicken, nice fresh fish and a good sake and shochu list. The interior is very pleasant (blond wood furnishings, an open kitchen and a big open bar area), with a nice view looking west.
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. 49F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-11pm daily.
Bali Lax (Misc. Southeast Asian). 5321-6688
Balinese and other Asian foods plus extravagant tropical decor in this fun party space. Lunch from Y900, dinner from Y1600. It's a good idea to call ahead for reservations.
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30pm-midnight daily.
Glass Dance (Belgian rest/beer bar). 3348-5920
It's yet another Belgian beer specialty bar in Nishi-Shinjuku, this one with plenty of space (90 seats) and Maredsous and De Koninck beers on tap. There are inexpensive (from Y300), somewhat hit-or-miss Spanish tapas to nibble with your beer, along with tasty Belgian-style mussels steamed in either beer or white wine. (Formerly called Beer Signal.)
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 2-10pm (LO) daily.
La Bettola Per Tutti (Italian). 3342-3699
Reliable Italian cooking in a casual setting. The food ranges from good to excellent, so the large menu warrants some exploration to find your favorites. Full-course dinners from Y3980, or a la carte.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-9:30pm (LO) daily.
!Paul Bassett (Coffee shop). 5324-5090
Excellent espresso - either single-origin or blend - as well as fresh-roasted beans to go from this Tokyo outlet of an Australian World Champion Barista. The coffee counter is located inside a branch of Salvatore Cuomo, so you can have pizza with your coffee if you're hungry; they also serve panini sandwiches and ricotta pancakes. Shorter opening hours on weekends.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 7:30am-8:30pm daily.
Hashiya (Yoshoku). 3346-2371
Old-school Japanese-style spaghetti from a shop that started in the 1950s. The menu offers nearly a hundred pasta variations, featuring sea urchin, cod roe, squid, clams and other ingredients.
mapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B2F. Open 11am-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Sangokuichi Island Tower (Udon). 3346-3591
Houtou is a hearty winter udon-noodle dish from the mountainous Kofu area of Yamanashi Prefecture, and this is one of the few places in Tokyo where you can find it. The houtou served here is quite substantial, loaded with chunks of chicken, pumpkin, leeks, mushrooms and other vegetables in a thick broth - a filling meal for just Y1000. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 6-5-1, I-Land Tower B1F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO; Sat -10, Sun -9:30) daily.
Hina (Sushi). 5323-2380
The reliable Hina chain has claimed for themselves the niche of decent-quality all-you-can-eat sushi. Priced from Y3980 at dinnertime.
mapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 6-5-1, Shinjuku Island Tower B1F. Open 11am-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Marble Lounge (International). 3344-5111
Open twenty-four hours a day, the Hilton's Marble Lounge offers various special buffets throughout the day, including a dessert buffet with fountains of chocolate every afternoon from 2:30-6pm (Y4200). There's also a breakfast buffet every day from 6:30 to 10:30am (to 11am on weekends), and a "night owl" menu late at night.
no smokinglateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 6-6-2, Hilton Hotel. Open 24 hours a day.
Al Dente (Italian). 3349-0384
This long-running pasta specialist is a favorite of many resident and visiting Italians in Tokyo. In addition to tomato- and cream-based pasta sauces, Al Dente serves up Japanese variations featuring spicy mentaiko (cod roe with red peppers), plump, flavorful shrimp and strips of nori seaweed. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-25-1, Shinjuku Center Bldg. BMF. Open 11am-9pm (LO; Sun -7:30pm) daily.
Sizzler (American). 3342-5814
If you have a sudden craving for baby corn, sliced beets and Green Goddess dressing, Sizzler still runs one of Tokyo's best-stocked salad bars.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-1-1, Mitsui Bldg. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
!Kyubei (Sushi). 3344-0315
A branch of the long-established, highly regarded sushi shop in Ginza that invented gunkan-maki (sushi wrapped in nori strips, "battleship" style). Set menus for sushi from Y4200 at lunch and Y6300 at dinner. Sushi kaiseki service is priced at Y12,600-28,350. They also do take-out.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-2-1, Keioh Plaza Hotel Main Bldg 7F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-9:30pm daily.
!!Michel Troisgros (French). 3348-1234
The first restaurant in Japan from Michelin three-star chef Michel Troisgros. Prix-fixe lunches are Y7,900-10,500; dinners are Y14,700-18,900.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-7-2, Hyatt Regency Tokyo 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Fungo Dining (Italian). 5339-7123
This simple but stylish Italian cafe-restaurant turns into a relaxed late-night neighborhood bar after 11pm (Tuesday through Saturday nights), with reasonably priced wines and cocktails. Budget around Y4000 at dinnertime.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 6-16-7. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5pm-4:30am (LO) daily.
Moyan offers a huge variety of tasty Japanese-style curries and ethnic-style side dishes, along with inexpensive wines and cocktails. [Go to branch review]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 8-19-2. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Saturdays.
!Moyan Curry (Curry). 5323-5539
With its exotic-ethnic decor and Hawaiian background music, the atmosphere here is closer to a Bohemian cafe than a curry shop. The curry menu itself is rather exotic too - variations include ratatouille, avocado, pig's foot, and leek curries. The "Zenbu" (everything) curry (Y1550) is a good introduction - it contains beef, pork, chicken, shrimp and cheese in a sweetish roux, and it's quite filling. [Show more]
mapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 6-25-14. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Shiryu (Izakaya). 3372-7717
Shiryu's eclectic menu features charcoal-grilled fish and seafood on skewers, yakitori, okonomiyaki and yakisoba, salads and seasonal vegetable dishes. Drinks - beer, wine, cocktails, shochu, umeshu, Korean makkoli and soft drinks - are all Y390. Budget around Y3000 for dinner and drinks.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 5-25-13. Open 5pm-4am (LO) daily.
Issa (Japanese). 3345-1087
The food dishes are small, inexpensive, and very eclectic in origin (pizza, spring rolls, gyoza dumplings, roast potatoes). The decor is dark and chic, with a gently sloping incline so that everyone can enjoy the view. [See FULL REVIEW.]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-4-1, Shinjuku NS Bldg. 29F. Open 11am-2, 4:30-11pm daily.
!Sangendou (Izakaya). 3342-3105
Unlike some skyscraper restaurants, this place has the energy and atmosphere of a down-to-earth izakaya. The food menu is impressively diverse, including soba noodles, kushiyaki (both yakitori and other meats on skewers), homemade tofu, "Kyoto-style oden," and lots of good seasonal specials. There are over a dozen different sakes to try; other drinks include awamori cocktails, shochu, beer and wine.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-4-1, Shinjuku NS Bldg. 29F. Open 11:30am-2, 4:30-11pm daily.
Toranosuke (Japanese). 5324-5125
Creative Japanese cooking - a nice balance between traditional dishes and interesting surprises. The flashy decor is a big part of the fun here, as is the nighttime view. [See FULL REVIEW.]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-4-1, Shinjuku NS Bldg. 29F. Open 11am-3, 5-11pm daily.
Kyushu (Kyushu). 3342-0204
This long-established izakaya mini-chain serves excellent Kyushu cuisine and a good assortment of sake and shochu from the southern island. Budget around Y4000-5000 for dinner with drinks. [Go to branch review]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-2-9, Shinjuku Washington Hotel B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO; Sun -10) daily.
!Park Hyatt Delicatessen (Sandwiches/ deli). 5323-3635
Perhaps the best deli counter in town, with a huge selection of cold cuts, pates and salads. Lunches are priced from around Y1000, and breakfast is served on weekdays from 8 to 10:30am. The outdoor terrace seating is pleasant in warmer months. [See FULL REVIEW.]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, Park Hyatt Hotel 1F. Open 11am-8pm (Sat, Sun -7pm) daily.
Peak Lounge and Bar (Bar). 5323-3461
Enjoy chic cocktails in a bamboo grove high in the sky at the Park Hyatt's internationally famous bar and lounge. They also serve afternoon tea, desserts and light snacks. Cocktails start at around Y1600.
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, Park Hyatt Hotel 41F. Open 11am-10:30pm daily.
New York Bar (Bar). 5323-3458
Perched on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt hotel, the New York Bar makes good on its promise to offer the best view of Tokyo. The interior is a sleek haven of glass and dark wood enlivened by two vibrant Art Deco-inspired paintings on opposite walls. With its ebony chairs and walnut floors, the atmosphere is one of understated sophistication - there's nothing to detract from the stunning cityscape. [See FULL REVIEW.]
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, Park Hyatt Hotel 52F. Open 5pm-midnight (Thu-Sat -1am) daily.
!Girandole (French). 5323-3459
Excellent French regional cooking in the Park Hyatt's "all-day" brasserie.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, Park Hyatt Tokyo 41F. Open 7am-11pm daily.
New York Grill (International). 5323-3458
There's a popular Sunday brunch for Y6,900, but you can get the same lunch on weekdays for Y5,000 (minus the flute of champagne). Full-course dinners are Y11,000-21,000, but people come here just as much to see and be seen, and to enjoy the impressive view. The adjacent New York Bar has drinks and live music.
decorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, Park Hyatt Tokyo 52F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Conran Cafe (Cafe). 5322-6444
Attached to the Conran furniture shop, this colorful cafe offers light fare like quiches, salads, croques monsieur sandwiches and cakes along with Chinese teas and Hoegaarden beer. Design books fill the cafe's bookshelves.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1, Shinjuku Park Tower 3F. Open 10:10am-7pm. Closed Wednedays.
Spice Heaven (Indian). 5325-6797
The Y1000 lunch buffet has only four curries, but they're above average in quality. Mondays are all vegetable curries at this branch of the Maharaja chain.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1, Shinjuku Park Tower B1F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Yamaya (Liquor shop). 3342-0601
They have an extensive wine selection, but it's always changing, so if you find something you like it might not be there the next time. Great prices.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-2-7. Open 10am-10pm daily.

Nishi-Shinjuku 5-chome

Moremore (Okinawan). 5354-5052
A lively late-night drinking spot with down-to-earth Okinawan fare at very reasonable prices; budget around Y2500 for food and drinks in the evening, or Y500 for lunch. They also serve Blue Seal ice cream.
lateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 4-3-11. Open noon-3am (LO) daily.
Hanamasa (Retail). 5358-8707
Relatively inexpensive meats and produce, 24 hours a day.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 5-1-17. Open 24 hours a day.


Lodi (Bar). 050-1141-6227
Located above Nakano-Sakaue subway station, Lodi serves both domestic microbrew beers (with a rotating selection of five on tap), and American wines (with six by the glass). At lunchtime (weekdays only) they serve gourmet coffee. [Show more]
no smokingmapNakano-ku, Chuo 1-38-1. Open 11:45am-2:30, 6pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Hangover (Beer bar). 5389-3049
"Craft beer, craft food" is the raison d'etre of this ambitious beer bar, and they do an excellent job on both counts. There's a well-chosen selection of craft beers from the US and Japan on tap, and they also stock a good number of bottles from breweries like Lagunitas, Coronado and Southern Tier. [Show more]
no smokinglateSunmapNakano-ku, Chuo 1-51-4. Open 5pm-5am (Sun -12). Closed Mondays.
Viehausen-49 (Beer bar). 3384-1017
German beers and food are served in this small neighborhood bar.
mapNakano-ku, Chuo 4-6-10. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Romania (Romanian). 5334-5341
Very affordable Romanian fare in a festively overdecorated dining room. At lunchtime there's a choice of grilled chicken, pork cutlet and similarly meaty options for Y1000, including free soft drinks. [Show more]
SunmapNakano-ku, Honcho 1-32-24. Open 11:30am-3, 5-10pm. Closed Mondays.

South of Koshu-Kaido

!Fuunji (Ramen). 6413-8480
Tsukemen is everywhere in Tokyo. Expecially tonkotsu gyokai tsukemen. Pork and chicken bones are cooked on high heat for a long time to draw out as much creamy collagen as possible. Thickness is the key here. This soup is usually blended with a fishy soup made from dried Japanese fish. The result is like gravy, and the flavor is like nothing else in the world. Serve cold noodles on the side for dipping, and you have a very popular style of tsukemen. [Show more]
no smokingmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-14-3. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Gontran Cherrier (Bakery). 5302-2282
From popular French baker Gontran Cherrier, this two-story bakery across from Shinjuku station produces top-grade breads, pastries and sandwiches, to eat in (in the upstairs cafe area) or to go. The selection includes interesting Japanese-inspired items like yuzu cheesecake and curry baguettes.
SunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-2-1, Southern Terrace. Open 7:30am-10pm daily.
!Tavern on S (International). 6632-9595
Open 21 hours a day and conveniently located next to Shinjuku Station's south exit, this glitzy new bar-restaurant is a fun destination whatever you're looking for - a casual group dinner, a late-night snack or just a quick drink or two at the bar. The large dining room is lavishly decorated and quite lively, with a standing bar up front and a greenery-shielded open-air section facing Southern Terrace's pedestrian walkway. [Show more]
no smokinglatedecorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-55, Food Hall Newoman 2F. Open 7am-3:15am (LO) daily.
!Konne (Antenna shop). 5333-7764
Souvenirs and various food items from Miyazaki Prefecture in Kyushu are on sale here, including several types of charcoal-grilled chicken, a specialty of the area. Freshly prepared chicken is served in the small cafe corner, where you can enjoy it along with your choice of Miyazaki microbrew beers. [Show more]
SunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-2-1, Southern Terrace. Open 11am-9pm daily.
Xenlon (Chinese). 3374-2080
Dim sum lunches start at Y5200 at this upscale restaurant inside the Hotel Century Southern Tower.
decorSunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-2-1, Hotel Century Southern Tower, 19F. Open 11:30am-4:30, 4:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Banyou (Shabu-shabu). 3375-1919
Japanese steaks, shabu shabu, sukiyaki, teppanyaki - basically everything with beef is on the menu. Shabu-shabu from Y3800; beef-centered kaiseki Y8000.
SunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 4F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Hibiki (Southern Tower) (Izakaya). 5333-5501
This upscale chain izakaya is known for their excellent grilled meats and vegetables and their well-chosen sake and shochu lists. The decor is sleek Japanese modern. Budget around Y6000-7000 per person with drinks.
SunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 4F. Open 11am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
Little Delirium (Belgian rest/beer bar). 6300-0807
This mini-branch of one of our favorite Belgian beer bars sits at the Yoyogi end of Southern Terrace; convenient to Shinjuku station but sufficiently removed from the bustling crowds. Despite the small size they boast an excellent beer list, with a rotating selection of ten on tap, plus a respectable food menu featuring roast Iberico pork, grilled horsemeat and of course mussels and frites. There's some outdoor seating.
SunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-2-1, Shinjuku Southern Terrace. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Frigo (Belgian rest/beer bar). 5371-0666
Frigo offers more than a hundred beers by the bottle, mostly Belgian but with a strong German section as well. The food menu is limited, but includes mussels prepared in several different ways.
mapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-11-20, B1F. Open 5:30pm-2am (Sundays 3-11pm). Closed 2nd Sunday.
Senkichi (Udon). 5358-7054
Numerous variations on the them of curry udon can be found at this popular budget chain, including coconut-based southeast Asian-inspired curries, cheese curries, and udon with tsukemen-style curry dipping sauce. Most are priced Y700-800 for a bowl accompanied by a small portion of rice and pickles.
SunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-13-6, Yu-wa Bldg 1F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
YYG Brewery (Brewpub). 6276-5550
One of the main attractions at this new (March 2016) brewpub is its very comfortable outdoor wooden deck, which looks out over a quiet side street just a few minutes from Shinjuku Station. The beer is pretty good too - when we visited recently they were serving five of their own beers along with one guest beer, priced at around Y850 per glass (there's only one serving size). [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-18-3. Open 5-10:30pm (LO; Sat, Sun from noon) daily.
Kodawariya (Yakitori). 5371-8384
Inexpensive free-range chicken yakitori and tasty stir-fry dishes.
mapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-11-2, Kimura Bldg. 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Cafe Hoegaarden (Belgian rest/beer bar). 5388-5523
This spacious, two-story bar from the Brussels chain serves very good Belgian food along with a wide assortment of beers.
latemapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-20-16. Open 5:30pm-2am (Sat. to 11pm). Closed Sundays.


Silkroad Tarim (Uygur). 6276-7799
Mutton-focused Uyghur cuisine from Western China is the unusual specialty at this neighborhood noodle shop. Handmade leghmen noodles, long thick noodles topped with stir-fried meats and vegetables, are perhaps the most famous dish of the region, but the real standouts here are the beautifully spiced lamb and other kebabs. [Show more]
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-15-8. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Le Pain Quotidien (Bakery). 6276-4815
The second Tokyo branch of the internationally famous Belgian organic bakery is open from 7:30am, serving coffee and pastries, salads and tartines - open-face Belgian sandwiches with toppings like smoked salmon-avocado and ham-gruyere cheese. There's also a bar serving wine and beer.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-20-2, Tokyo Opera City Tower, 1F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Danke (Beer bar). 3375-1075
A very lively after-work beer hall, Danke serves a variety of Belgian and German bottled beers and inexpensive wines starting at under Y2000 per bottle. The extensive snack menu offers seasonal pizza variations as well as typical izakaya dishes.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-20-2, Tokyo Opera City Tower, 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO; Sat, Sun 10pm) daily.
Asahi Sushi (Sushi). 5353-0470
Reliable, affordable sushi with a skyscraper view. Nigiri-zushi selections are Y1890-4830, and sushi-centered prix-fixe menus are Y5250-8400.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-20-2, Tokyo Opera City Tower, 53F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Tsunahachi (Tempura). 5353-0278
Fresh, well-prepared tempura from the popular Shinjuku-based chain. A ten-piece seasonal tempura selection is priced at Y3150, and prix-fixe menus are Y3900-7500. Lunches start at Y1260.
SunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-20-2, Tokyo Opera City Tower, 53F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
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