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Nishi-Shinjuku
Picks: Japanese: Yuian, Kyushu, Keishoan (yakitori), Tsukinokura, Yamato, Hibiki
Western: Michel Troisgros (French), Girandole (regional French)
Ethnic: Peach Fair (Thai), Vietnam Alice (Vietnamese)
Budget Xi'an (Chinese), Kushiya Monogatari (all-you-can-eat kushiage), Lois, News Deli
Drinks: beer at Cafe Hoegaarden; sake at Tengumai, Kaasan; makkoli at Tejimaul
Shinjuku Station
Oshima (Japanese regional). 3348-8080 A great place to explore Kaga-ryori, the regional cuisine of Kanazawa, on the Sea of Japan coast. Lunch from Y1,800, dinner from Y2,800, and special Kaga kaiseki from Y6,500. They also have branches in Ginza, Shinagawa and Yokohama.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-5-1, Odakyu Halc 8F. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily. | |
Coffee, wireless internet access and good food from the popular Wired Cafe chain.   Shinjuku 3-38-2, Shinjuku Lumine 2 6F. Open 10am-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Vaguely health-oriented light Japanese and Western meals and homemake cakes.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-3, My Lord 7F. (Shinjuku station south exit) Open 11am-10:30pm (LO 9:30) daily.
Lois (Japanese). 5909-3855 The attractive, highly stylized food here is dainty but maintains a certain rustic aesthetic, and meals are built by assembling a series of small vegetable-oriented (but not vegetarian) side dishes with brown rice or onigiri. The decor has a matching rough-hewn elegance, and the shop is popular with female diners. Prix-fixe dinners Y2800-3200 or a la carte; lunch from Y1575.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1 6F. Open 11am-11pm daily. | |
The dining room is pleasantly decorated and the food here is very well prepared - including some excellent grilled chicken - but the dinner menu is too small and limited to get excited about. Lunch is a better bet, with a Y1600 buffet. Dinner averages around Y2500 without drinks.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1 7F. Open 11am-2:30, 5-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Good Bangkok street-stall food in this department-store basement, including dishes like Nam Phrik Kapi (shrimp and chili paste with vegetables), stir-fries and spicy salads. Most of the menu is available for take-out, and popular items like curries and pad thai are ready to go immediately.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1, B1F. Open 10am-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Fantastic charcoal-grilled, free-range chicken and choice sake in a comfortable setting. In addition to a la carte, they offer unusual kaiseki-style menus for Y4000-5000 (reserve in advance). [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
Good, modern Vietnamese cooking from the "Iron Chef" who founded the Queen Alice chain. Their basket of assorted spring rolls is especially recommended. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime. During the afternoon you can stop in for Vietnamese desserts or a late lunch.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Shinjuku Lumine 1, 6F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Near the station
Although Peach Fair looks like lots of other Thai restaurants in Tokyo, with its unpretentious ethnic decor and its bouncy Thai pop music, the food served here is well above average in terms of quality and authenticity. The Isan-style dishes from Northeast Thailand - sausages, barbecue chicken, fried spring rolls - are especially interesting, and there are unusual items like raw shrimp with garlic and chili, and various types of okoge. [See FULL REVIEW.]   Nishi-Shinjuku 7-7-29, Nishi-Shinjuku Bldg. B1F. Open 11am-3, 5-11pm daily. | |
Catering to "Latin fans", they present live music almost every night of the week, with shows at 8, 9, and 10pm.  Nishi-Shinjuku 7-1-8. Open 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays, some Monday.
This comfortable basement spot calls itself a makkoli bar, with a surprising 11 varieties of the Korean version of "cloudy" sake. But once you get over the novelty of the drinks list, you may come to think of Tejimaul more as an outstanding pork restaurant, serving three types of heirloom pork from a small farm in Yamagata. [See FULL REVIEW.]   Nishi-Shinjuku 7-10-10, Nishimura Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily. | |
Straight from Osaka, this popular national chain offers all-you-can-eat kushi-age - deep-fried grilled fish, meat and vegetables on skewers. Every table is furnished with its own deep-fryer, so you choose what you like from the refrigerated cabinets and then cook it up for yourself. Y2500 covers two hours of deep-fry fun; all-you-can-drink beer and cocktail deals are also available. Lunch is served on weekends.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-3-1, Sunflower Bldg 5F. Open 4-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
News offers a big selection of small dishes - ranging from salads to stews - ready to assemble into a meal or a quick snack.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-3-14. (on Ome-kaido) Open 11:30am-11:30pm daily. | |
Serving relatively expensive German beers and decent pub grub in a cavelike basement, this branch of the Franziskaner group is worth knowing about for their late-night hours. | |
This basement branch of Sungari serves the same tasty Russian food as the main branch in Kabukicho, but in a plainer, more subdued dining space.  Nishi-Shinjuku 1-7-2, Subaru Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 4:30-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Who can resist a restaurant called "Mom's", especially when the kitchen and waitress staff is a squadron of fifty-ish, motherly types who look like they'd be disappointed in you for not finishing your vegetables. But the main draw here is the sake -- they promise a "journey through Japan by sake", and they stock close to 100 brands, from every part of the country, with most varieties running Y500-Y800 per glass. There's also a respectable menu of izakaya-style food, with grilled chicken wings, duck steak, and plenty of seasonal items. No English.  Nishi-Shinjuku 1-11-11, B1F. (on the side street directly behind Yodobashi Camera honten) Open 11am-3, 4-11:20pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
This brewery-managed izakaya serves excellent seasonal kaga-ryori specialties from the Kanazawa region on the north coast of Japan, plus thirteen different types of sake from the Tengumai brewery, ranging from Y400 to Y1800 per glass. (Y600 per person table charge.)  Nishi-Shinjuku 1-11-11, B1F. (on the side street directly behind Yodobashi Camera honten) Open 5-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
Xi'an (Chinese). 3347-5130 The city of Xi'an is located along the historical Silk Road trade route, and the cuisine from that region takes full advantage of the many spices that were part of the trade. The menu here includes well-spiced lamb dishes, Xi'an-style cold appetizers and toshomen noodles, and a number of unusual dimsum items. Around Y3500 at dinnertime.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-12-1, Shinjuku Sanhei Bldg 4F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily. | |
This sprawling (330-seat) chain izakaya offers good value for money, and they can often accomodate large groups on short notice. They're also one of the few late-night options in this neighborhood. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink.
Tasty grilled fish and other Hokkaido-style fare.  Nishi-Shinjuku 1-15-4. Open 5pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
Imaginative pub-style Japanese food and regional sake at great prices.
Skyscraper district
Good grilled chicken, nice fresh fish and a good sake and shochu list. The interior is very pleasant (blond wood furnishings, an open kitchen and a big open bar area), with a nice view looking west. | |
Bali Lax (Misc. Southeast Asian). 5321-6690 Balinese and other Asian foods plus extravagant tropical decor in this fun party space. Lunch from Y900, dinner from Y1600. It's a good idea to call ahead for reservations. | |
It's yet another Belgian beer specialty bar in Nishi-Shinjuku, this one with plenty of space (90 seats) and Maredsous and De Koninck beers on tap. There are inexpensive (from Y300), somewhat hit-or-miss Spanish tapas to nibble with your beer, along with tasty Belgian-style mussels steamed in either beer or white wine.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 2-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Reliable Italian cooking in a casual setting. The food ranges from good to excellent, so the large menu warrants some exploration to find your favorites. Full-course dinners from Y3980, or a la carte.   Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Located inside the architecturally stunning Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower, Blue Square offers a good selection of design and music magazines to browse while you sip your coffee. Wireless access is available. | |
One of the more interesting corners of the Spice Road multi-ethnic complex, Jembatan offers appetizing food and friendly service.   Nishi-Shinjuku 6-5-1, I-Land Tower B1F. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
The reliable Hina chain has claimed for themselves the niche of decent-quality all-you-can-eat sushi. Priced from Y3980 at dinnertime.   Nishi-Shinjuku 6-5-1, Shinjuku Island Tower B1F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
MOF-award-winning chef Stephane Gaborieau presents a menu of modern French dishes popular at the Michelin-starred Parisian main branch of his restaurant - Basque-style anchovy-stuffed peppers with yogurt-chorizo sorbet; ris de veau with fondant-potato salad, and much more. Six-course dinners are Y11,500, or you can order a la carte. | |
Open twenty-four hours a day, the Hilton's Marble Lounge offers various special buffets throughout the day, including a dessert buffet with fountains of chocolate every afternoon from 2:30-6pm (Y4200). There's also a breakfast buffet every day from 6:30 to 10:30am (to 11am on weekends), and a "night owl" menu late at night. Open twenty-four hours a day, the Hilton's Marble Lounge offers various special buffets throughout the day, including a dessert buffet with fountains of chocolate every afternoon from 2:30-6pm (Y4200).
The sumptuous Sunday brunch buffet includes plenty of breakfast dishes, Japanese breakfast items, a special children's menu and roving clowns. Y3500 for adults, Y1750 for children. There's also a breakfast buffet every day from 6:30 to 10:30am (to 11am on weekends), and a "night owl" menu late at night. [Show more] [Show less] | |
Artfully arranged izakaya fare paired with a small but well-chosen selection of wine and sake. The decor is stunning, the view is spectacular, and the food is original and well-prepared. Budget around Y4000-6500 for dinner and drinks. | |
If you have a sudden craving for baby corn, sliced beets and green goddess dressing, Sizzler still runs one of Tokyo's better salad bars, with plenty of options for vegetarians. | |
A lively ethnic-style izakaya with crowd-pleasing Chinese, Korean and Southeast-Asian-themed dishes.   Nishi-Shinjuku 2-6-1, Shinjuku Sumitomo Bldg. 49F. Open 5-10:50pm (LO) daily.
Very stylish, with a terrific view from the 49th floor of the Sumitomo Building, this modern izakaya serves an array of creative tapas, some (panko and Parmesan crusted chicken with a balsamic reduction) more successful than others (paella Valenciana flavored arancini). Tapas dishes start at Y300; budget around Y3000-4000 for a full meal with drinks. | |
Kuu (Izakaya). 3344-6457 Great charcoal-grilled dishes, seasonal fish and vegetable items and a nice sake selection. The attractive interior is built around an open grill area, taking advantage of the city view. (No lunch on Sundays.) [See FULL REVIEW.]   Nishi-Shinjuku 2-6-1, Shinjuku Sumitomo Bldg. 50F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Yukku (Japanese regional). 3344-6586 Very traditional Hokkaido cuisine, including lots of salmon and crab dishes, in a no-frills atmosphere. The menu is complicated, but the multi-course set meals, starting from around Y3200, are a good deal.   Nishi-Shinjuku 2-6-1, Shinjuku Sumitomo Bldg. 50F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10pm daily.
There's not much in the way of atmosphere, but this old-fashioned fish-focused izakaya serves very good seasonal seafood - raw, grilled and as tempura. The anago eel is served shirayaki-style (no sauce) along with roasted eel bones. There are also around 8-10 reasonably priced sake. If you're lucky you can get one of the three window tables.   Nishi-Shinjuku 2-6-1, Shinjuku Sumitomo Bldg. 51F. Open 5-8:40pm (LO) daily. | |
Yuian (Izakaya). 3342-5671 Gorgeous modern stone/wood/tatami/glass dining rooms (designed by Yanagiya Manabu), floor-to-ceiling windows, and a world-class view. The original Japanese menu is complemented by the very good sake list. An excellent place to entertain and impress jaded out-of-towners, and also very good value for money; budget around Y4000-6000 for dinner. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
The first restaurant in Japan from Michelin three-star chef Michel Troisgros. Prix-fixe lunches are Y7,900-10,500; dinners are Y14,700-18,900. | |
This simple but stylish Italian cafe-restaurant turns into a relaxed late-night neighborhood bar after 11pm (Tuesday through Saturday nights), with reasonably priced wines and cocktails. Budget around Y4000 at dinnertime. | |
A chicken and yuba (tofu skin) specialty restaurant, with a nice atmosphere (old chests, dark wood counters) and fairly average izakaya food. They offer an unusual sake selection, with a handful of high-priced premium labels.   Nishi-Shinjuku 2-4-1, Shinjuku NS Bldg. Open 11am-1:30, 5-9pm (LO) daily.
Kappo-style Japanese cuisine. Kaiseki menus from Y5000, plus a la carte.   Nishi-Shinjuku 2-4-1, Shinjuku NS Bldg. Open 11am-2:30, 5-10pm daily.
Issa (Japanese). 3345-1087 The food dishes are small, inexpensive, and very eclectic in origin (pizza, spring rolls, gyoza dumplings, roast potatoes). The decor is dark and chic, with a gently sloping incline so that everyone can enjoy the view. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
Unlike some skyscraper restaurants, this place has the energy and atmosphere of a down-to-earth izakaya. The food menu is impressively diverse, including soba noodles, kushiyaki (both yakitori and other meats on skewers), homemade tofu, "Kyoto-style oden," and lots of good seasonal specials. There are over a dozen different sakes to try; other drinks include awamori cocktails, shochu, beer and wine. | |
Creative Japanese cooking - a nice balance between traditional dishes and interesting surprises. The flashy decor is a big part of the fun here, as is the nighttime view. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
This long-established izakaya mini-chain serves excellent Kyushu cuisine and a good assortment of sake and shochu from the southern island. Budget around Y4000-5000 for dinner with drinks. [Go to branch review]   Nishi-Shinjuku 3-2-9, Shinjuku Washington Hotel B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Perhaps the best deli counter in town, with a huge selection of cold cuts, pates and salads. Lunches are priced from around Y1000, and breakfast is served on weekdays from 8 to 10:30am. The outdoor terrace seating is pleasant in warmer months. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
Enjoy chic cocktails in a bamboo grove high in the sky at the Park Hyatt's internationally famous bar and lounge. They also serve afternoon tea, desserts and light snacks. Cocktails start at around Y1600. | |
Perched on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt hotel, the New York Bar makes good on its promise to offer the best view of Tokyo. The interior is a sleek haven of glass and dark wood enlivened by two vibrant Art Deco-inspired paintings on opposite walls. With its ebony chairs and walnut floors, the atmosphere is one of understated sophistication - there's nothing to detract from the stunning cityscape. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
Kozue (Japanese). 5323-3461 First-rate seasonal Japanese cuisine and well-selected sake in a beautiful setting high above Shinjuku. Dinner around Y20,000 per person. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
Excellent French regional cooking in the Park Hyatt's "all-day" brasserie. | |
There's a popular Sunday brunch for Y6,600, but you can get the same lunch on weekdays for Y4,200 (minus the flute of champagne). Full-course dinners are Y11,000-21,000, but people come here just as much to see and be seen, and to enjoy the impressive view. The adjacent New York Bar has drinks and live music.
Attached to the Conran furniture shop, this colorful cafe offers light fare like quiches, salads, croques monsieur sandwiches and cakes along with Chinese teas and Hoegaarden beer. Design books fill the cafe's bookshelves.   Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1, Shinjuku Park Tower 3F. Open 10:10am-7pm. Closed Wednedays. | |
Xi'an-style dumplings are the specialty here; they also serve inexpensive noodle dishes. Budget around Y3000 in the evening, Y800 at lunchtime.   Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1, Shinjuku Park Tower B1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
The Y1000 lunch buffet has only four curries, but they're above average in quality. Mondays are all-vegetarian at this branch of the Maharaja chain.   Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1, Shinjuku Park Tower B1F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Yamaya (Liquor shop). 3342-0601 They have an extensive wine selection, but it's always changing, so if you find something you like it might not be there the next time. Great prices.   Nishi-Shinjuku 3-2-7. Open 10am-9pm daily. | |
South of Koshu-Kaido
A small, lunchroom-type restaurant area -- in the daytime there's a choice of Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki or the daily lunch (usually featuring grilled fish and sashimi), each priced at Y800, while in the evenings you can enjoy a selection of seven different brands of Hiroshima sake along with various snacks.   Yoyogi 2-2-1, Southern Terrace. Open 11am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Konne (Kyushu). 5333-7764 This is a retail shop selling souvenirs from Miyazaki Prefecture in Kyushu; there's also a small counter area where you can try Miyazaki microbrew beers along with very tasty charcoal-grilled free-range Kyushu chicken (Y900-Y1,000 for beer and yakitori).   Yoyogi 2-2-1, Southern Terrace. Open 11am-9pm daily. | |
Dim sum lunches start at Y5200 at this upscale restaurant inside the Hotel Century Southern Tower.
Reputed to be the best branch of the El Torito chain here in Tokyo (for what it's worth).   Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 1F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
A spacious, pleasant dining room that's open throughout the day. Tandoori items as well as curries.   Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 3F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Basic budget pizzas and pastas.   Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 3F. Open 11am-11pm daily. | |
Banyou (Shabu-shabu). 3375-1919 Japanese steaks, shabu shabu, sukiyaki, teppanyaki - basically everything with beef is on the menu. Shabu-shabu from Y3800; beef-centered kaiseki Y8000.   Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 4F. Open 11am-11pm daily. | |
This upscale chain izakaya is known for their excellent grilled meats and vegetables and their well-chosen sake and shochu lists. The decor is sleek Japanese modern. Budget around Y6000-7000 per person with drinks.   Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 4F. Open 11am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily. | |
A good-quality, inexpensive izakaya with some interesting dishes like beef-tongue gyoza and okara croquettes, plus a whole section of yuba and tofu specialties. Budget around Y3000.   Yoyogi 2-1-1, Shinjuku Maynds Tower B1F. (across the street from Shinjuku Southern Terrace) Open 11am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Curries and other Sri Lankan fare in a brightly lit, coffeeshop-like setting. Full multi-course meals from Y2,000-Y4,000.   Yoyogi 2-10-9. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Frigo (Belgian rest/beer bar). 5371-0666 Over 100 different beers by the bottle, mostly Belgian but with a strong German section as well. The food menu is limited, but includes mussels prepared in several different ways.  Yoyogi 2-11-20, B1F. Open 5:30pm-2am (Sundays 3-11pm). Closed 2nd Sunday. | |
Inexpensive free-range chicken yakitori and tasty stir-fry dishes.  Yoyogi 2-11-2, Kimura Bldg. 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Good-quality lamb jingisukan is the specialty here, with lamb flown in fresh from Hokkaido every day.  Yoyogi 2-5-5, Shinjuku AC Bldg 1F. Open 5pm-midnight.
This spacious, two-story bar from the Brussels chain serves very good Belgian food along with a wide assortment of beers.   Yoyogi 2-20-2. Open 5:30pm-2am (Sat. to 11pm). Closed Sundays. | |
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