Shamo is a breed of game bird known for its tasty, slightly chewy meat, and it's the bird of choice on the busy grills at Kokekokko. This modest-looking yakitoriya serves the usual selection of chicken parts on skewers - all very high in quality - along with beautiful grilled vegetables and appealing side dishes, including chicken sashimi. [See FULL REVIEW
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-1, Palette Town Bldg. B2F. Open 4-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Cafe Troisgros, a casual dining spot from Michelin-starred chef Michel Troisgros, turns out speedy, well-prepared lunches that offer good value for money (from Y1500). During off-peak hours (10-11am, 2-6pm), Cafe Troisgros's teatime menu offers the same frothy coffee drinks and sweet treats you might expect at places like Afternoon Tea, but with an upscale, gourmet twist. [See FULL REVIEW
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-3, Odakyu Dept. Store 8F. Open 11am-2, 6-8pm (LO) daily.
(Japanese regional). 3348-8080
A great place to explore Kaga-ryori, the regional cuisine of Kanazawa, on the Sea of Japan coast. Lunch from Y1,800, dinner from Y2,800, and special Kaga kaiseki from Y6,500. They also have branches in Ginza, Shinagawa and Yokohama.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-5-1, Odakyu Halc 8F. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily.
The dining room is pleasantly decorated and the food here is very well prepared - including some excellent grilled chicken - but the dinner menu is too small and limited to get excited about. Lunch is a better bet, with a Y1600 buffet. Dinner averages around Y2500 without drinks.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1 7F. Open 11am-2:30, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
A convenient department-store outlet of the legendary Sangubashi burger shop, this Shinjuku branch of Arms offers smaller, picnic-size burger as an option. Besides the usual bacon, cheese, etc., the menu generally includes some interesting special seasonal toppings.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1, B1F. Open 10am-10pm daily.
Good Bangkok street-stall food in this department-store basement, including dishes like Nam Phrik Kapi (shrimp and chili paste with vegetables), stir-fries and spicy salads. Most of the menu is available for take-out, and popular items like curries and pad thai are ready to go immediately.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine 1, B1F. Open 10am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Fantastic charcoal-grilled, free-range chicken and choice sake in a comfortable setting. In addition to a la carte, they offer unusual kaiseki-style menus for Y4000-5000 (reserve in advance). [See FULL REVIEW
Good, modern Vietnamese cooking from the "Iron Chef" who founded the Queen Alice chain. Their basket of assorted spring rolls is especially recommended. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime. During the afternoon you can stop in for Vietnamese desserts or a late lunch.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-5, Shinjuku Lumine 1, 6F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
It's breakfast time all day long at this famous New York-based restaurant. The menu features Eggs Benedict, lemon-ricotta pancakes, "Farmer's Omelet," fluffy French toast and a good selection of pastries served with their seasonal fruit jams. The "Four Flowers" fruit juice is a refreshing blend of banana, orange, pomegranate and pineapple.
Shinjuku 3-38-2, Shinjuku Lumine 2, 2F. Open 9am-9pm (LO) daily.
Near the station
The original branch of a famous and very popular ramen chain, this shop usually has a line to get in. In addition to the usual options of toppings, you can also choose the size of your bowl, and whether you want strong or weak broth. The kakuni (stewed pork) is especially recommended.
Nishi-Shinjuku 7-2-6, K1 Bldg 1F. Open 11am-9:30pm daily.
The tanmen noodles here are very spicy, but the soup has a depth of flavor the goes beyond one-note hotness. You can pick from several variations, with different levels of spiciness.
This comfortable basement spot calls itself a makkoli bar, with a surprising 11 varieties of the Korean version of "cloudy" sake. But once you get over the novelty of the drinks list, you may come to think of Tejimaul more as an outstanding pork restaurant, serving three types of heirloom pork from a small farm in Yamagata. [See FULL REVIEW
Nishi-Shinjuku 7-10-10, Nishimura Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.
Perhaps the best bar in the world for Japanese whiskey, with some 300 varieties available, including some rare bottles that are no longer sold in stores. They also serve craft beers from Osaka's Minoh Brewery, as well as Japanese rum and grappa and some imported liquors. The light food menu includes home-smoked dishes. Often old movies are shown (silently) in the background while you drink.
Nishi-Shinjuku 7-10-14, Gaia Bldg 4, 3F. Open 7pm-4am. Closed Sundays, some Monday.
One of the few late-night spots on the west side of Shinjuku station, this budget izakaya offers a good selection of sake and a wide range of food, including many varieties of grilled himono (dried fish). Lunch is served until 4pm.
This relaxed second-floor branch of the Nagi chain offers an evening menu of izakaya-style side dishes to nibble on with drinks, including a "ramen-shop omelet" and gyoza topped with ratatouille. The limited ramen offerings in the evening are quite unusual - a tasty shellfish ramen made with steamed mussels and clams as well as ramen topped with grilled cheese. At lunchtime they serve tsukemen, including some unique, very wide lasagna-esque noodles.
Nishi-Shinjuku 7-13-7. Open 6-11:30pm. Closed 3rd Sunday.
Straight from Osaka, this popular national chain offers all-you-can-eat kushi-age - deep-fried grilled fish, meat and vegetables on skewers. Every table is furnished with its own deep-fryer, so you choose what you like from the refrigerated cabinets and then cook it up for yourself. Y2500 covers ninety minutes of deep-fry fun; all-you-can-drink beer and cocktail deals are also available. Lunch is served on weekends. Cash only.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-3-1, Sunflower Bldg 5F. Open 4-10:30pm (LO) daily.
News offers a big selection of small dishes - ranging from salads to stews - ready to assemble into a meal or a quick snack.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-3-14. (on Ome-kaido) Open 11:30am-11:30pm daily.
Serving relatively expensive German beers and decent pub grub in a cavelike basement, this branch of the Franziskaner group is worth knowing about mostly for their late-night hours.
This basement branch of Sungari serves the same tasty Russian food as the main branch in Kabukicho, but in a plainer, more subdued dining space.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-7-2, Subaru Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 4:30-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Who can resist a restaurant called "Mom's", especially when the kitchen and waitress staff is a squadron of fifty-ish, motherly types who look like they'd be disappointed in you for not finishing your vegetables. But the main draw here is the sake -- they promise a "journey through Japan by sake", and they stock close to 100 brands, from every part of the country, with most varieties running Y500-Y800 per glass. There's also a respectable menu of izakaya-style food, with grilled chicken wings, duck steak, and plenty of seasonal items. No English.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-11-11, B1F. (on the side street directly behind Yodobashi Camera honten) Open 11am-3, 4-11:20pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
The "kikizake set," or sake tasting flight, is a great invention - instead of just one kind of sake you get to try three different varieties at the same time, comparing flavors and aromas as you sip your way through smaller-sized glasses. Some izakaya offer basic starter-level flights aimed at sake neophytes (e.g. sweet vs. dry vs. cloudy), but Yoshimoto takes it to another level entirely, with more than a dozen tasting flights designed to appeal to sake aficionados. It's an excellent opportunity to explore a lot of different brews in one evening without falling over, especially if you come with a group and share. The "kikizake set," or sake tasting flight, is a great invention - instead of just one kind of sake you get to try three different varieties at the same time, comparing flavors and aromas as you sip your way through smaller-sized glasses. Some izakaya offer basic starter-level flights aimed at sake neophytes (e.g. sweet vs. dry vs. cloudy), but Yoshimoto takes it to another level entirely, with more than a dozen tasting flights designed to appeal to sake aficionados. It's an excellent opportunity to explore a lot of different brews in one evening without falling over, especially if you come with a group and share.
The kikizake sets here are organized according to themes - three sake from the same prefecture, or from the same brewery, or made with the same rice. There are usually a few special seasonal selections as well, and most flights are priced from Y880-1100. Although it may be tempting to try them all, the regular sake selection - some seventy labels - is also worth checking out, particularly the limited-edition seasonal specials.
The food menu is fairly straightforward izakaya fare, and takes a back seat to the drinks. Our summer vegetable tempura was the highlight of a recent visit, and the sashimi platter and satsuma-age fritters were also decent. Adventurous diners might want to try some of Yoshimoto's "chinmi," unusual delicacies such as fermented fish guts and bee larvae which you can order in sets of three tiny but pungent dishes.
The restaurant is divided into a convivial counter area and a plainly decorated tatami room with horikotatsu, which unfortunately can get smoky at times. Budget around Y5000-7000 for ample food and drink. [Show more] [Show less]
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-13-3, Nishi-Shin Bldg 3F. Open 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
The city of Xi'an is located along the historical Silk Road trade route, and the cuisine from that region takes full advantage of the many spices that were part of the trade. The menu here includes well-spiced lamb dishes, Xi'an-style cold appetizers and toshomen noodles, and a number of unusual dimsum items. Around Y3500 at dinnertime.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-12-1, Shinjuku Sanhei Bldg 4F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
This sprawling (330-seat) chain izakaya offers good value for money, and they can often accomodate large groups on short notice. They're also one of the few late-night options in this neighborhood. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink.
Kushi-tempura - a fancy term for deep-fried kushiage skewers - is the specialty at this highly regarded shop. Budget around Y4000 in the evening for a full-course dinner with open bar, or Y1000 for a tempura lunch. (No lunch on Sundays.)
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-14-2, Kojima Bldg B1F-4F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Peppery chicken wings and other creative chicken cuisine from this popular chain. Budget around Y3000-4000 at dinnertime.
Tasty grilled fish and other Hokkaido-style fare.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-15-4. Open 5pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
Imaginative pub-style Japanese food and regional sake at great prices.
Good grilled chicken, nice fresh fish and a good sake and shochu list. The interior is very pleasant (blond wood furnishings, an open kitchen and a big open bar area), with a nice view looking west.
(Misc. Southeast Asian). 5321-6688
Balinese and other Asian foods plus extravagant tropical decor in this fun party space. Lunch from Y900, dinner from Y1600. It's a good idea to call ahead for reservations.
It's yet another Belgian beer specialty bar in Nishi-Shinjuku, this one with plenty of space (90 seats) and Maredsous and De Koninck beers on tap. There are inexpensive (from Y300), somewhat hit-or-miss Spanish tapas to nibble with your beer, along with tasty Belgian-style mussels steamed in either beer or white wine. (Formerly called Beer Signal.)
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 2-10pm (LO) daily.
Reliable Italian cooking in a casual setting. The food ranges from good to excellent, so the large menu warrants some exploration to find your favorites. Full-course dinners from Y3980, or a la carte.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Excellent espresso - either single-origin or blend - as well as fresh-roasted beans to go from this Tokyo outlet of an Australian World Champion Barista. The coffee counter is located inside a branch of Salvatore Cuomo, so you can have pizza with your coffee if you're hungry; they also serve panini sandwiches and ricotta pancakes. Shorter opening hours on weekends.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1F. Open 7:30am-8:30pm daily.
Old-school Japanese-style spaghetti from a shop that started in the 1950s. The menu offers nearly a hundred pasta variations, featuring sea urchin, cod roe, squid, clams and other ingredients.
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-26-2, Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B2F. Open 11am-9pm. Closed Sundays.
The reliable Hina chain has claimed for themselves the niche of decent-quality all-you-can-eat sushi. Priced from Y3980 at dinnertime.
Nishi-Shinjuku 6-5-1, Shinjuku Island Tower B1F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
MOF-award-winning chef Stephane Gaborieau presents a menu of modern French dishes popular at the Michelin-starred Parisian main branch of his restaurant - Basque-style anchovy-stuffed peppers with yogurt-chorizo sorbet; ris de veau with fondant-potato salad, and much more. Six-course dinners are Y11,500, or you can order a la carte.
Open twenty-four hours a day, the Hilton's Marble Lounge offers various special buffets throughout the day, including a dessert buffet with fountains of chocolate every afternoon from 2:30-6pm (Y4200). There's also a breakfast buffet every day from 6:30 to 10:30am (to 11am on weekends), and a "night owl" menu late at night.
This long-running pasta specialist is a favorite of many resident and visiting Italians in Tokyo. In addition to tomato- and cream-based pasta sauces, Al Dente serves up Japanese variations featuring spicy mentaiko (cod roe with red peppers), plump, flavorful shrimp and strips of nori seaweed. This long-running pasta specialist is a favorite of many resident and visiting Italians in Tokyo. In addition to tomato- and cream-based pasta sauces, Al Dente serves up Japanese variations featuring spicy mentaiko (cod roe with red peppers), plump, flavorful shrimp and strips of nori seaweed.
Most pastas range from Y1000-1800 in price, and spaghetti portions come in four different sizes. [Show more] [Show less]
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-25-1, Shinjuku Center Bldg. BMF. Open 11am-9pm (LO; Sun -7:30pm) daily.
If you have a sudden craving for baby corn, sliced beets and Green Goddess dressing, Sizzler still runs one of Tokyo's best-stocked salad bars.
A branch of the long-established, highly regarded sushi shop in Ginza that invented gunkan-maki (sushi wrapped in nori strips, "battleship" style). Set menus for sushi from Y4200 at lunch and Y6300 at dinner. Sushi kaiseki service is priced at Y12,600-28,350. They also do take-out.
Nishi-Shinjuku 2-2-1, Keioh Plaza Hotel Main Bldg 7F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-9:30pm daily.
There's not much in the way of atmosphere, but this old-fashioned fish-focused izakaya serves very good seasonal seafood - raw, grilled and as tempura. The anago eel is served shirayaki-style (no sauce) along with roasted eel bones. There are also around 8-10 reasonably priced sake. If you're lucky you can get one of the three window tables.
Nishi-Shinjuku 2-6-1, Shinjuku Sumitomo Bldg. 51F. Open 5-8:40pm (LO) daily.
The first restaurant in Japan from Michelin three-star chef Michel Troisgros. Prix-fixe lunches are Y7,900-10,500; dinners are Y14,700-18,900.
This simple but stylish Italian cafe-restaurant turns into a relaxed late-night neighborhood bar after 11pm (Tuesday through Saturday nights), with reasonably priced wines and cocktails. Budget around Y4000 at dinnertime.
Moyan offers a huge variety of tasty Japanese-style curries and ethnic-style side dishes, along with inexpensive wines and cocktails. [Go to branch review]
Nishi-Shinjuku 8-19-2. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Saturdays.
With its exotic-ethnic decor and Hawaiian background music, the atmosphere here is closer to a Bohemian cafe than a curry shop. The curry menu itself is rather exotic too - variations include ratatouille, avocado, pig's foot, and leek curries. The "Zenbu" (everything) curry (Y1550) is a good introduction - it contains beef, pork, chicken, shrimp and cheese in a sweetish roux, and it's quite filling. With its exotic-ethnic decor and Hawaiian background music, the atmosphere here is closer to a Bohemian cafe than a curry shop. The curry menu itself is rather exotic too - variations include ratatouille, avocado, pig's foot, and leek curries. The "Zenbu" (everything) curry (Y1550) is a good introduction - it contains beef, pork, chicken, shrimp and cheese in a sweetish roux, and it's quite filling.
Besides the many curry variations you can also choose special toppings (grilled cheese, fried egg, mushrooms), adjust the size of your rice portion, and specify your desired degree of spiciness on a scale of zero to twenty. Pick from various salads and side dishes for a well-balanced meal; the Thai-style cucumbers with coriander (Y300) are one of our favorites. Drinks include simple cocktails, inexpensive wines (Y2000/bottle), Korean makkoli and beer. [Show more] [Show less]
Nishi-Shinjuku 6-25-14. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Shiryu's eclectic menu features charcoal-grilled fish and seafood on skewers, yakitori, okonomiyaki and yakisoba, salads and seasonal vegetable dishes. Drinks - beer, wine, cocktails, shochu, umeshu, Korean makkoli and soft drinks - are all Y390. Budget around Y3000 for dinner and drinks.
The food dishes are small, inexpensive, and very eclectic in origin (pizza, spring rolls, gyoza dumplings, roast potatoes). The decor is dark and chic, with a gently sloping incline so that everyone can enjoy the view. [See FULL REVIEW
Unlike some skyscraper restaurants, this place has the energy and atmosphere of a down-to-earth izakaya. The food menu is impressively diverse, including soba noodles, kushiyaki (both yakitori and other meats on skewers), homemade tofu, "Kyoto-style oden," and lots of good seasonal specials. There are over a dozen different sakes to try; other drinks include awamori cocktails, shochu, beer and wine.
Nishi-Shinjuku 2-4-1, Shinjuku NS Bldg. 29F. Open 11:30am-2, 4:30-11pm daily.
Creative Japanese cooking - a nice balance between traditional dishes and interesting surprises. The flashy decor is a big part of the fun here, as is the nighttime view. [See FULL REVIEW
This long-established izakaya mini-chain serves excellent Kyushu cuisine and a good assortment of sake and shochu from the southern island. Budget around Y4000-5000 for dinner with drinks. [Go to branch review]
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-2-9, Shinjuku Washington Hotel B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Perhaps the best deli counter in town, with a huge selection of cold cuts, pates and salads. Lunches are priced from around Y1000, and breakfast is served on weekdays from 8 to 10:30am. The outdoor terrace seating is pleasant in warmer months. [See FULL REVIEW
Enjoy chic cocktails in a bamboo grove high in the sky at the Park Hyatt's internationally famous bar and lounge. They also serve afternoon tea, desserts and light snacks. Cocktails start at around Y1600.
Perched on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt hotel, the New York Bar makes good on its promise to offer the best view of Tokyo. The interior is a sleek haven of glass and dark wood enlivened by two vibrant Art Deco-inspired paintings on opposite walls. With its ebony chairs and walnut floors, the atmosphere is one of understated sophistication - there's nothing to detract from the stunning cityscape. [See FULL REVIEW
Excellent French regional cooking in the Park Hyatt's "all-day" brasserie.
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, Park Hyatt Tokyo 41F. Open 7am-11pm daily.
There's a popular Sunday brunch for Y6,900, but you can get the same lunch on weekdays for Y5,000 (minus the flute of champagne). Full-course dinners are Y11,000-21,000, but people come here just as much to see and be seen, and to enjoy the impressive view. The adjacent New York Bar has drinks and live music.
Attached to the Conran furniture shop, this colorful cafe offers light fare like quiches, salads, croques monsieur sandwiches and cakes along with Chinese teas and Hoegaarden beer. Design books fill the cafe's bookshelves.
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1, Shinjuku Park Tower 3F. Open 10:10am-7pm. Closed Wednedays.
The Y1000 lunch buffet has only four curries, but they're above average in quality. Mondays are all vegetable curries at this branch of the Maharaja chain.
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1, Shinjuku Park Tower B1F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
(Liquor shop). 3342-0601
They have an extensive wine selection, but it's always changing, so if you find something you like it might not be there the next time. Great prices.
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-2-7. Open 10am-10pm daily.
A lively late-night drinking spot with down-to-earth Okinawan fare at very reasonable prices; budget around Y2500 for food and drinks in the evening, or Y500 for lunch. They also serve Blue Seal ice cream.
Relatively inexpensive meats and produce, 24 hours a day.
Nishi-Shinjuku 5-1-17. Open 24 hours a day.
A fancy neighborhood joint with good pastas and starters and an impressive Italian wine list, but probably not worth a special trip. Budget around Y5000 plus drinks. Reservations recommended.
Yayoicho 1-4-6, Abitashon 1F. (from Nishi-Shinjuku 5-chome station, exit A2, walk to Yamate-dori and turn right) Open noon-10pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Located above Nakano-Sakaue subway station, Lodi serves both domestic microbrew beers (with a rotating selection of five on tap), and American wines (with six by the glass). At lunchtime (weekdays only) they serve gourmet coffee. Located above Nakano-Sakaue subway station, Lodi serves both domestic microbrew beers (with a rotating selection of five on tap), and American wines (with six by the glass). At lunchtime (weekdays only) they serve gourmet coffee.
Happy Hour is 6-8pm weekdays, and the bar is non-smoking and equipped with free wifi. [Show more] [Show less]
Nakano-ku, Chuo 1-38-1. Open 11:45am-2:30, 6pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
"Craft beer, craft food" is the raison d'etre of this ambitious beer bar, and they do an excellent job on both counts. There's a well-chosen selection of craft beers from the US and Japan on tap, and they also stock a good number of bottles from breweries like Lagunitas, Coronado and Southern Tier. "Craft beer, craft food" is the raison d'etre of this ambitious beer bar, and they do an excellent job on both counts. There's a well-chosen selection of craft beers from the US and Japan on tap, and they also stock a good number of bottles from breweries like Lagunitas, Coronado and Southern Tier.
If you're looking for the perfect beer snack, the kitchen turns out very tasty Buffalo chicken wings, BBQ beef sandwiches, and vegetables and other items fried in craft-beer batters. You even get to choose the craft beer for your batter!
The location is a bit off the beaten track, but it's well worth the trek if you love good beer. Happy hour is 5-8pm, with Y200 off pints, and if you miss your last train home you can stay and drink until 5am every night but Sunday. [Show more] [Show less]
German beers and food are served in this small neighborhood bar.
Nakano-ku, Chuo 4-6-10. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Very affordable Romanian fare in a festively overdecorated dining room. At lunchtime there's a choice of grilled chicken, pork cutlet and similarly meaty options for Y1000, including free soft drinks. Very affordable Romanian fare in a festively overdecorated dining room. At lunchtime there's a choice of grilled chicken, pork cutlet and similarly meaty options for Y1000, including free soft drinks.
For dinner you can choose from a number of simple, inexpensive set meals (around Y2000) or a more deluxe a la carte menu. Romanian wines start at around Y4000. There are a few outdoor tables looking onto the Nakano-Sakaue main intersection. [Show more] [Show less]
Honcho 1-32-24. Open 11:30am-3, 5-10pm. Closed Mondays.
South of Koshu-Kaido
Tsukemen is everywhere in Tokyo. Expecially tonkotsu gyokai tsukemen. Pork and chicken bones are cooked on high heat for a long time to draw out as much creamy collagen as possible. Thickness is the key here. This soup is usually blended with a fishy soup made from dried Japanese fish. The result is like gravy, and the flavor is like nothing else in the world. Serve cold noodles on the side for dipping, and you have a very popular style of tsukemen. Tsukemen is everywhere in Tokyo. Expecially tonkotsu gyokai tsukemen. Pork and chicken bones are cooked on high heat for a long time to draw out as much creamy collagen as possible. Thickness is the key here. This soup is usually blended with a fishy soup made from dried Japanese fish. The result is like gravy, and the flavor is like nothing else in the world. Serve cold noodles on the side for dipping, and you have a very popular style of tsukemen.
There are many shops like this, and they tend to be universally good. One stands out though, and when you finally make it inside Fuunji, you'll see why it is considered a top spot for tsukemen in Tokyo. The line is always there, stretching out, across the street, and sometimes veering into the nearby park. The line moves fast, so jump in.
Be sure to order the tsukemen here (Y800). The ramen on the menu is good, but the tsukemen is where it's at. You'll be asked what size portion of noodles you want when you hand in your ticket. Nami gets you regular, and dai gets you a large size. Unless you are very hungry, go for the nami. Fuunji uses only chicken in their soup, something that is rarely done. Blended with a thick fish stock, and topped with fish powder, this one really clings to the noodles. The smoky, roasted taste can be enjoyed after the noodles are gone by diluting the soup with some broth, located on the counter. [Show more] [Show less]
Yoyogi 2-14-3. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm. Closed Sundays.
From popular French baker Gontran Cherrier, this two-story bakery across from Shinjuku station produces top-grade breads, pastries and sandwiches, to eat in (in the upstairs cafe area) or to go. The selection includes interesting Japanese-inspired items like yuzu cheesecake and curry baguettes.
Yoyogi 2-2-1, Southern Terrace. Open 7:30am-10pm daily.
(Antenna shop). 5333-7764
Souvenirs and various food items from Miyazaki Prefecture in Kyushu are on sale here, including several types of charcoal-grilled chicken, a specialty of the area. Freshly prepared chicken is served in the small cafe corner, where you can enjoy it along with your choice of Miyazaki microbrew beers (Y900-Y1,000 for beer and yakitori).
Yoyogi 2-2-1, Southern Terrace. Open 11am-9pm daily.
Dim sum lunches start at Y5200 at this upscale restaurant inside the Hotel Century Southern Tower.
Basic budget pizzas and pastas.
Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 3F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Japanese steaks, shabu shabu, sukiyaki, teppanyaki - basically everything with beef is on the menu. Shabu-shabu from Y3800; beef-centered kaiseki Y8000.
Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 4F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
This upscale chain izakaya is known for their excellent grilled meats and vegetables and their well-chosen sake and shochu lists. The decor is sleek Japanese modern. Budget around Y6000-7000 per person with drinks.
Yoyogi 2-2-1, Odakyu Southern Tower 4F. Open 11am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
This mini-branch of one of our favorite Belgian beer bars sits at the Yoyogi end of Southern Terrace; convenient to Shinjuku station but sufficiently removed from the bustling crowds. Despite the small size they boast an excellent beer list, with a rotating selection of ten on tap, plus a respectable food menu featuring roast Iberico pork, grilled horsemeat and of course mussels and frites. There's some outdoor seating.
Yoyogi 2-2-1, Shinjuku Southern Terrace. Open 11am-11pm daily.
(Belgian rest/beer bar). 5371-0666
Over 100 different beers by the bottle, mostly Belgian but with a strong German section as well. The food menu is limited, but includes mussels prepared in several different ways.
Yoyogi 2-11-20, B1F. Open 5:30pm-2am (Sundays 3-11pm). Closed 2nd Sunday.
Numerous variations on the them of curry udon can be found at this popular budget chain, including coconut-based southeast Asian-inspired curries, cheese curries, and udon with tsukemen-style curry dipping sauce. Most are priced Y700-800 for a bowl accompanied by a small portion of rice and pickles.
Yoyogi 2-13-6, Yu-wa Bldg 1F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Inexpensive free-range chicken yakitori and tasty stir-fry dishes.
Yoyogi 2-11-2, Kimura Bldg. 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
This spacious, two-story bar from the Brussels chain serves very good Belgian food along with a wide assortment of beers.
Yoyogi 2-20-2. Open 5:30pm-2am (Sat. to 11pm). Closed Sundays.
Mutton-focused Uyghur cuisine from Western China is the unusual specialty at this neighborhood noodle shop. Handmade leghmen noodles, long thick noodles topped with stir-fried meats and vegetables, are perhaps the most famous dish of the region, but the real standouts here are the beautifully spiced lamb and other kebabs. Mutton-focused Uyghur cuisine from Western China is the unusual specialty at this neighborhood noodle shop. Handmade leghmen noodles, long thick noodles topped with stir-fried meats and vegetables, are perhaps the most famous dish of the region, but the real standouts here are the beautifully spiced lamb and other kebabs.
The meat pies (gosh nan) are also worth a try, as is the voluminous wonton soup, filled with plump and meaty dumplings. Service is friendly and casual; budget around Y2500-3500 for dinner with a few drinks. [Show more] [Show less]
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-15-8. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Mondays.
The second Tokyo branch of the internationally famous Belgian organic bakery is open from 7:30am, serving coffee and pastries, salads and tartines - open-face Belgian sandwiches with toppings like smoked salmon-avocado and ham-gruyere cheese. There's also a bar serving wine and beer.
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-20-2, Tokyo Opera City Tower, 1F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
(Beer bar). 3375-1075
A very lively after-work beer hall, Danke serves a variety of Belgian and German bottled beers and inexpensive wines starting at under Y2000 per bottle. The extensive snack menu offers seasonal pizza variations as well as typical izakaya dishes.
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-20-2, Tokyo Opera City Tower, 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO; Sat, Sun 10pm) daily.
Reliable, affordable sushi with a skyscraper view. Nigiri-zushi selections are Y1890-4830, and sushi-centered prix-fixe menus are Y5250-8400.
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-20-2, Tokyo Opera City Tower, 53F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Fresh, well-prepared tempura from the popular Shinjuku-based chain. A ten-piece seasonal tempura selection is priced at Y3150, and prix-fixe menus are Y3900-7500. Lunches start at Y1260.
Nishi-Shinjuku 3-20-2, Tokyo Opera City Tower, 53F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily.