Non-smoking restaurants
Owl Park (Ikebukuro - Bird cafe). 3984-1097
One of a growing number of owl cafes in the city of owls, Ikebukuro, Owl Park opened in September 2015 in the middle of a bustling nightlife district. A spacious room on the second floor of a busy entertainment building, it offers a dozen friendly owls. The owls are mostly smaller varieties such as scops, little owls and barn owls, but there are three larger types - brown wood owl, Ural owl and eagle owl. The pastel-wash walls are decorated with vivid plastic foliage and colorful acrylic paintings by Africa-trained Japanese artist Shogen.
no smokingSunmapToshima-ku, Nishi-Ikebukuro 3-30-11 2F. Open 11am-7pm. Closed Mondays.
!Rock'ando (Ikebukuro - Ramen). 5952-6006
The first thing you'll notice at Rock'anDo is the color scheme. Green is everywhere, from the signage to the little green army men on a shelf. This should clue you in - you'll be eating green ramen. Rock'anDo's signature dish uses a "superfood" called Euglenids, a kind of algae-like organism rich in vitamins A, C, and E. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapToshima-ku, Higashi-Ikebukuro 2-57-2. Open 11am-9pm daily.
Buffalo Tap (Ikebukuro - Bar). unlisted
Bottled craft beers and Swedish-style calzones are served at this small neighborhood bar; you'll also find wine, steak tacos and quesadillas. Note that on some nights they don't open until 7:30pm or so.
no smokingSunmapToshima-ku, Kami-Ikebukuro 1-6-8. Open 6-11:45pm. Closed Tuesdays, Thursdays.
Aona (Takadanobaba - Gyukatsu). 6908-9779
The beef cutlet here has a lovely, extra-crunchy coating, and it's accompanied by a well-constructed vegetable salad and a tasty, peppery soup. Condiments include artisanal rock salt and oil with red pepper, and for an extra ¥100 you can order a knob of fresh wasabi and a grinder. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Takadanobaba 3-2-5. Open 11:30am-10:30pm daily.
Flattoria (Takadanobaba - Italian). 3205-9182
Part of the Fealteria complex, this casual restaurant offers solid Italian fare, including pizzas, in an unpretentious, smoke-free dining room. Prix-fixe dinners are Y2100-5200. Weekday lunches run Y1000-3000, including several "salad lunches"; weekends are a bit fancier, from Y1500-3500.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Takadanobaba 1-25-30. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO) daily.
!Yamaguchi (Takadanobaba - Ramen). 3204-5120
Takadanobaba is considered a bit of a ramen battle zone. Through the years, many shops have opened and closed, and to have a successful shop in this part of Tokyo is considered a great feat. Yamaguchi is probably the most famous new shop in the area. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Waseda 2-11-13. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-9pm (Sat, Sun 11:30-9). Closed Mondays.
!Garni (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Japanese). 6457-4145
Yakiton (charcoal-grilled pork on skewers) is the main dish here, but instead of a smoky izakaya the atmosphere is closer to a stylish wine bar, with a selection of wines by the glass (Y680-1000) to go with your skewers - a great combination.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Ichigaya Nakanomachi 4-28. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Tuesdays.
La Boheme (Shinjuku Gyoen-mae - Italian). 5366-2242
This spacious multi-level branch of the budget Italian chain is open all afternoon, and convenient when you're visiting Shinjuku Gyoen.
no smokinglateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 1-1-7. (along the park, near the northeast (Okido) entrance) Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Keawjai (Shinjuku - Thai). 3226-9991
Top-quality "Imperial" Thai cuisine, from a newish branch of this long-established Tokyo Thai restaurant. Budget around Y2500 for food at dinnertime.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-21-7, Toshin Bldg 2F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Meal Muji (Shinjuku - Cafe). 5367-2726
Stylishly modern and surprisingly spacious, Meal Muji makes a pleasant retreat from the crowds of Shinjuku's shopping district. The decor is bright and cheerful, with ubiquitous sleek blond wood furnishings set off by clay-colored stucco walls and lots of greenery.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-15-15, Shinjuku Picadilly B1F. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily.
!Kushinobo Bekkan (Shinjuku - Kushiage). 3354-2403
One of Tokyo's most reliable kushiage shops, Kushinobo offers creative skewers, a decent sake selection and good value for money. A ten-skewer set menu is ¥3240 at dinnertime, just one of many set-menu and a la carte options. The eight-skewer lunch set with soup and rice (¥1080) is a nice introduction - a recent seasonal selection featured salmon, green pepper stuffed with ground pork, prawn, chicken with celery and other delicacies, all served fresh and piping hot from the fryer. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Kaikan 3F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Kyochabana (Shinjuku - Okonomiyaki). 3353-1575
Original-recipe Kyoto-style okonomiyaki (similar to Osaka-style) is the specialty of the house here, with some offbeat variations built around avocados and tomatoes. Optional toppings like pork, shrimp, cheese, bacon and mushrooms are ready to add to the mix, and the voluminous portions are big enough to share, especially if you've had starters. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 3-6-9, Yamaguchi Bldg B1F. Open 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
!Nagi Golden Gai (Shinjuku - Ramen). 3205-1925
Dried baby sardines (niboshi) have been a common ingredient in ramen for many years. It wasn't until recently, though, that ramen chefs began using them in abundance. The tiny fish have a very bitter flavor, and cooking them too long will ruin anything. So when a shop comes along that is able to extract as much smoky, fishy taste from their niboshi as possible, fans rejoice. [Show more]
no smokinglateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1-1-10-2F. Open 24 hours a day.
Din Tai Fung (Shinjuku - Dim sum). 5361-1381
Fantastic, authentic Taiwanese-style dumplings; including the hot-broth-filled shoronpo dumplings for which they're most famous. [Go to branch review]
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 12F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Breizh Cafe Creperie (Shinjuku - Cafe). 5361-1335
Delicious Bretagne-style artisanal sweet crepes and savory buckwheat galettes are served along with hard cider and soft drinks imported from the region. When the weather permits, there's nice outdoor terrace seating next to the garden atop the Takashimaya/Times Square shopping complex.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 13F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Katsukura (Shinjuku - Tonkatsu). 5361-1878
This central Tokyo branch of a popular Kyoto-based tonkatsu shop stands out for both their overall high quality and the breadth of their menu offerings. In addition to regular and premium-pork grades of tonkatsu they offer dishes like deep-fried scallops and prawns, and yuba (tofu-skin) croquettes. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Times Square 14F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Marble Lounge (Nishi-Shinjuku - International). 3344-5111
The Hilton's Marble Lounge offers various special buffets throughout the day, including a breakfast buffet every day from 6:30 to 10:30am (to 11am on weekends).
no smokinglateSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 6-6-2, Hilton Hotel. Open 24 hours a day.
Sizzler (Nishi-Shinjuku - American). 3342-5814
They have one of Tokyo's best salad bars, but try to avoid the huge crowds and hour-long lines on weekends.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-1-1, Mitsui Bldg. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
!!Michel Troisgros (Nishi-Shinjuku - French). 3348-1234
The first restaurant in Japan from Michelin three-star chef Michel Troisgros. Prix-fixe lunches are Y7,900-10,500; dinners are Y14,700-18,900.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 2-7-2, Hyatt Regency Tokyo 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm. Closed Wednesdays.
!Park Hyatt Delicatessen (Nishi-Shinjuku - Sandwiches/ deli). 5323-3635
Perhaps the best deli counter in town, with a huge selection of cold cuts, pates and salads. Lunches are priced from around Y1000, and breakfast is served on weekdays from 8 to 10:30am. The outdoor terrace seating is pleasant in warmer months.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, Park Hyatt Hotel 1F. Open 11am-8pm (Sat, Sun -7pm) daily.
!Fuunji (Nishi-Shinjuku - Ramen). 6413-8480
Tsukemen is everywhere in Tokyo. Expecially tonkotsu gyokai tsukemen. Pork and chicken bones are cooked on high heat for a long time to draw out as much creamy collagen as possible. Thickness is the key here. This soup is usually blended with a fishy soup made from dried Japanese fish. The result is like gravy, and the flavor is like nothing else in the world. Serve cold noodles on the side for dipping, and you have a very popular style of tsukemen. [Show more]
no smokingmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-14-3. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm. Closed Sundays.
!Tavern on S (Nishi-Shinjuku - International). 6632-9595
Open 21 hours a day and conveniently located next to Shinjuku Station's south exit, this glitzy new bar-restaurant is a fun destination whatever you're looking for - a casual group dinner, a late-night snack or just a quick drink or two at the bar. The large dining room is lavishly decorated and quite lively, with a standing bar up front and a greenery-shielded open-air section facing Southern Terrace's pedestrian walkway. [Show more]
no smokinglatedecorSunmapShinjuku-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-55, Food Hall Newoman 2F. Open 7am-3:15am (LO) daily.
YYG Brewery (Nishi-Shinjuku - Brewpub). 6276-5550
One of the main attractions at this new (March 2016) brewpub is its very comfortable outdoor wooden deck, which looks out over a quiet side street just a few minutes from Shinjuku Station. The beer is pretty good too - when we visited recently they were serving five of their own beers along with one guest beer, priced at around Y850 per glass (there's only one serving size). [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Yoyogi 2-18-3. Open 5-10:30pm (LO; Sat, Sun from noon) daily.
!Tanta Bocca (Yoyogi - Italian). 5771-4099
This is the kind of unpretentious neighborhood trattoria that we love, serving good grilled meats and nice pastas, with some very reasonably priced wines in the Y3000-5000 range. Budget around Y2500-4000 for food at dinnertime.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 4-5-1. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10:30pm (LO) daily.
!Bistrot d'Artemis (Yoyogi - French). 5770-7155
This bistrot branch of the highly regarded L'Artemis restaurant in Jingumae offers a more casual experience and convenient late-night hours. The extensive wine list starts at around Y3000; budget Y4500-7500 for dinner.
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Sendagaya 4-5-11, Victoria Plaza 1F. Open noon-2, 6pm-1am (LO). Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
Jangara Ramen (Harajuku - Ramen). 3404-5572
Famous Kyushu ramen; kakuni (Chinese-style stewed pork) is one of their specialties, and helps explain the long lines at lunchtime.
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 1-13-21. Open 11am-2am (Fri., Sat. to 3:30am). Open every day.
Bills (Harajuku - Australian). 5772-1133
Breakfast is served from 8:30am through the end of lunchtime, with signature dishes like sweetcorn fritters with roast tomato, spinach and bacon (Y1400), and ricotta hotcakes with fresh bananas and honeycomb butter (Y1400). Sitting atop the seven-story Tokyu Plaza shopping complex at the crossroads of Harajuku, the restaurant offers a nice view facing south towards Shibuya, with some outdoor terrace seating.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 4-30-3, Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku 7F. Open 8:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
Hasegawa Saketen (Harajuku - Liquor shop). 5785-0833
A very well-stocked sake shop, plus a small stand-up bar where you can try samples in small 50ml tasting sizes. Usually there are around ten sakes open for tasting, priced Y200-400. There's also a small snack menu - prosciutto, cheese, dried mentaiko. The retail side of the shop stocks over 100 premium brands of sake, and unlike many shops that seem to specialize in those humongous isshobin bottles that won't fit in your fridge, most of the sake here is in convenient 720ml bottles or in tiny single-serving mini-bottles.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 4-12-4, Omotesando Hills 3F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Castle of Owls (Harajuku - Bird cafe). 080-3732-0532
The star attraction at the new branch of Castle of Owls, which opened in Harajuku on September 2015, is a little owl called Bolt. After his lunch of raw quail meat, Bolt likes to take a little siesta. Unlike the other owls who sleep standing on one leg, Bolt likes to stretch out and lie down on the comfy fake grass for a bit of shut-eye (well, one eye anyway). According to the staff, this behavior is usually only exhibited by chicks in the safety of the nest, and shows that Bolt is completely relaxed and unafraid of predators.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 6-5-6, Sanbo Sogo Bldg 503. Open 11am-8pm (last entrance 7pm) daily.
Tokyo Snake Center (Harajuku - Animal cafe). 6427-9912
You can get a milk snake to go with your iced coffee and cake at Tokyo Snake Center! As you enter, you'll find a dozen colorful snakes in clear Perspex cases at the door. These are the "attendant" snakes and you get to choose one snake in a box to have as your table companion. The waiter then gives you a quick lesson in snake etiquette and cafe rules (available in Japanese and English), and leads you to your table.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 6-5-6, Sanbo Sogo Bldg 8F. Open 11am-8pm. Closed Tuesdays.
!Smokehouse (Harajuku - American). 6450-5855
There's great American-style barbecue and a nice collection of a dozen craft beers to wash it down at this cozy bar-restaurant located halfway along Cat Street. Weekday lunches start at Y1000, and during the evening you can snack on sandwiches (from Y1200) or indulge in mains like their voluminous four-meat platter with two side dishes (Y3800 for two people). In addition to beer, the bar carries well-chosen craft bourbons and other artisanal liquors. The soundtrack leans heavily towards the blues.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 5-17-13. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Harajuku - Italian). 5467-5666
Inexpensive pastas.
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 5-8-5. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
PDX Taproom (Harajuku - Beer bar). 6450-5455
There are maps of Portand Oregon on the wall and music from Portland indie bands on the stereo; the bartender sports a lumberjack shirt and a beard. Most important though, they sell Portland's greatest export - a rotating selection of ten craft beers from various Oregon breweries. Prices are Y700 for a half pint and Y1100 for a pint.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 5-30-2, 2F. Open 3-11pm (Sat, Sun noon-) daily.
!Benoit (Omotesando - Mediterranean). 6419-4181
From French celeb chef Alain Ducasse, a Mediterranean restaurant covering the cuisines of Italy, Spain, North Africa and Greece. The dining room is comfortable and attractively laid out, with nice views of Aoyama-dori, Shibuya and Shinjuku. Service is professional without being stiff. The wine list has some nice choices for under Y9000, and wine by the glass is fairly reasonable. Prix-fixe dinners from Y8,000, lunches from Y4500.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 5-51-8, La Porte Aoyama 10F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Meal Muji (Omotesando - Cafe). 5468-2368
Inexpensive bakery and deli items and salads from the famous no-brand design store Mujirushi.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Minami-Aoyama 5-11-9. Open 9am-10pm (Sun 11am-9pm) daily.
!Coutume (Omotesando - Coffee shop). 6418-5325
Coutume Cafe has been an important specialty coffee destination since they first opened in Paris in 2011, where they also train barista staff and roast beans for more than sixty other cafes and restaurants. Now they've started operations in Aoyama, offering a rotating selection of single-origin drip coffees, regular and micro-lot espressos, and an exclusive "Aoyama Special Blend" to Tokyo's coffee afficionados.
no smokingdecorSunmapMinato-ku, Minami-Aoyama 5-8-10. Open 7:30am-9:30pm daily.
Crayon House (Omotesando - Japanese/health food). 3406-6409
Two separate natural-food restaurants: "Hiroba", serving Japanese food, and "Home", with French cuisine. "Hiroba" offers a buffet lunch for Y1,200. (walk down Omotesando towards Harajuku, turn left at the Hanae Mori Building and walk one block)
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Kita-Aoyama 3-8-15. (walk down Omotesando towards Harajuku, turn left at the Hanae Mori Building and walk one block) Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily.
Yona Yona Beer Works (Omotesando - Beer bar). 5413-5447
A dozen beers from the popular Yo-Ho Brewing in Karuizawa are on tap here, including a very drinkable IPA and some seasonal specials. The food is well above average for a beer bar, with appealing sausage variations (coriander-lemon, yuzu pepper, spicy squid ink, venison) and very nice roast Date chicken. Convivial service, a lively atmosphere and attractive decor make this a fun spot to drop into for a quick beer or a casual evening meal.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Minami-Aoyama 3-18-20, Matsumoto Bldg B1F. Open 4-10:30pm (LO; Sat, Sun 11:30-10) daily.
Pommeke (Gaienmae - Belgian rest/beer bar). 6804-5884
Belgian frites (fried potatoes) - prepared by a former chef at the Belgian embassy - are the specialty at this casual standing bar. Frites are priced at Y550 for a medium-size portion (actually fairly hefty) and Y650 for an even larger ration. They come with a choice of plain mayonnaise or several other dips (although some of the extra-special dips run an extra Y50). If you're very hungry you can add on small side dishes like meatballs in tomato sauce or Flemish carbonade, a delicious beef and onion stew made with brown beer.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Kita-Aoyama 2-12-27. Open 11am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Azzurra (Gaienmae - Italian). 3497-1586
Skillfully constructed fish dishes and pastas from an extensive menu that changes daily.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 3-38-12, Puzzle Aoyama Bldg. B1F. Open 6-11pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Az Finom (Jingumae 2-chome - Hungarian). 5913-8073
Well-prepared Hungarian food and an excellent selection of around 40-50 Hungarian wines, mostly under Y10,000 and mostly served by the glass. The dining space has an old-fashioned European air about it, with a big wide counter area, three tables and a tiny private room off to one side.
no smokingmapShibuya-ku, Jingumae 2-19-5, Azuma Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Zest (Shibuya - Tex-Mex). 5489-3332
California-style Mexican food and drinks, served in one of Tokyo's noisiest restaurants.
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Jinnan 1-6-8, Campari Bldg. 2F. Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Shibuya - Italian). 3477-0481
Reliable pastas and other Italian dishes, with convenient late-night hours.
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Jinnan 1-6-8, Campari Bldg. 3F. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Shibuya - World cuisine). 5489-1611
From the owners of the Zest Mexican chain, a lively, fun place serving Southeast Asian dishes. The food is tasty (but not extremely authentic).
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Jinnan 1-6-8, Campari Bldg. 4F. Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
La Boheme Qualita (Shibuya - Italian). 5728-6388
This newest venture from the popular budget Italian chain promises to serve "an Italian mama's home-cooked meals."
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Udagawacho 20-11, Shibuya Mitsuba Bldg B1/B2F. (across from HMV, between Seibu A and B) Open 11:30am-1am daily.
BiOcafe (Shibuya - Cafe). 5428-3322
Organic coffee and tea, breads made with 100% natural yeast, and a completely smoke-free environment - Bio Cafe provides body and mind a bit of respite in junk-food-glutted Shibuya. With its soft-spoken staff and walls that fade from fuchsia to pearly pink, this quiet little cafe along Spain-zaka attracts a stylish, almost exclusively female crowd.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Udagawacho 16-14, Patio 1F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Mocha (Shibuya - Cat cafe). 6455-3503
Occupying the top two floors of a modern nine-story building in the middle of Shibuya, Mocha is quite attractively decorated and comfortably furnished, and offers nice panoramic views of the surrounding area. All in all, it's probably the most stylish cat cafe in town in terms of decor and visitor amenities. It's also well populated - there are thirty-three cats on staff, on rotating duty, with a good mix of breeds and personalities and a lot of younger cats.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Udagawacho 32-12, Assorty Shibuya 8F. Open 10am-10pm daily.
Aldgate (Shibuya - Beer bar). 3462-2983
One of Shibuya's more serious craft beer bars, The Aldgate offers more than twenty craft beers on tap, mostly from Japan, Britain and the US. The food is English pub fare - Toad in the Hole, Cornish pasties, Daal Masala, Fish and Chips.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Udagawacho 30-4, Shiniwasaki Bldg 3F. Open 6pm-2am daily.
Gompachi (Shibuya - Japanese). 5784-2011
Japanese cuisine and a late-night sushi bar.
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Maruyamacho 3-6, E Space Tower 14F. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
!Tharros (Shibuya - Italian). 3464-8511
Very good Sardinian cuisine and wines; budget around Y7000-8000 for dinner.
no smokingmapShibuya-ku, Dogenzaka 1-5-2, Sede Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
Coucagno (Shibuya - French). 3476-3000
Fancy French food with a skyscraper view; prix-fixe dinners from Y8000, with lots of good wines in the Y10,000-15,000 range.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sakuragaokacho 26-1, Cerulean Tower Hotel 40F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
!Nakamura (Shibuya - Izakaya). 6427-9580
Occupying the second floor of a newish office building, Nakamura is a very tastefully appointed modern izakaya, with sophisticated lighting and sleek furnishings. A full crew of chefs work in the open kitchen area behind the massive central counter, which is the most entertaining place to sit. There's also a big shared table off to one side and several private dining rooms. The food is the sort of original seasonal cuisine that's popular in upscale dining bars, and there's a good sake list to match.
no smokingdecorSunmapShibuya-ku, Shibuya 3-13-5, Ipuse Bldg 2F-B. Open 6-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Nyafe Melange (Ebisu - Cat cafe). 5449-4024
A mid-sized cafe located very close to Ebisu station, Melange has a living-room-themed decor, with bookcases, sofas, and numerous custom-made shelves and tiny stools for the 22 resident cats to perch on. Coffee and tea are served, and WiFi is free. Entry is a very reasonable Y600 for the first thirty minutes (Y700 on weekends).
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Ebisu 1-7-13. Open noon-8pm (Fri, Sat -9pm) daily.
Melange (Ebisu - Cat cafe). 5449-4024
Whoever was responsible for the interior design for Melange has clearly discovered the secret to a successful cat cafe - providing lots and lots of different places to sit, perch, and nap. At first glance it looks like an ordinary living room, with bookcases, sofas and coffee tables, but there are also dozens of custom-made shelves and tiny stools upon which the 22 resident cats can comfortably sit and preside over cafe business.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Ebisu 1-7-13, 3F. Open noon-8pm (Fri, Sat -9pm) daily.
Joel Robuchon (Ebisu - French). 5424-1347
Deluxe-level cooking and service in an elaborate castle-like setting. At dinnertime there's a rather extravagant 18-course tasting menu for Y35,000 per person (plus 12% service charge). The wine list covers some 1200 different varieties.
no smokingSunmapMeguro-ku, Mita 1-13-1, Yebisu Garden Place. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
La Table de Joel Robuchon (Ebisu - French). 5424-1338
Located on the first floor of the Robuchon castle in Ebisu, this is a much more casual version of the main dining room upstairs, with inventive modern cuisine and a very reasonable wine list; prix-fixe lunch from Y2950 and dinner from Y7800.
no smokingSunmapMeguro-ku, Mita 1-13-1, Yebisu Garden Place. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
Yebisu (Westin Hotel) (Ebisu - Teppanyaki). 5423-7790
One of the most highly rated teppanyaki restaurants in town, Yebisu also boasts a nice 22nd-floor view and convenient English menus. Full-course dinners with premium domestic beef, seasonal seafood and vegetables run Y15,000-25,000 and lunch is Y4,000-10,000. The menu often includes seafood-only dinners as well as beef-centered ones.
no smokingSunmapMeguro-ku, Mita 1-4-1, Westin Hotel 22F. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-10pm daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Ebisu - World cuisine). 5789-3811
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Ebisu 4-4-6. Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Bakushuan (Ebisu - Beer bar). 3719-3949
If you like both craft beer and craft sake, and you find yourself in Ebisu, this branch of Otsuka's legendary Bakushuan beer bar is the place for you. Ten mainly Japanese craft beers are served on tap, and there's an impressive sake list along with delicate seasonal cuisine to accompany it.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Ebisu-Minami 2-1-5, ES215 Bldg 7F. Open 4-11:30pm daily.
Tableaux (Daikanyama - International). 5489-2201
Under the same management as Zest and La Boheme, this is one of their two high-ticket California-style restaurants (along with Stellato). There's also a separate bar and cigar-smoking room (with a very effective ventilation system, fortunately).
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sarugakucho 11-6, Sunroser Daikanyama Bldg, B1F. Open 5:30-11pm (LO) daily.
!Ivy Place (Daikanyama - International). 6415-3232
Breakfast at Ivy Place is served from 7-11am in the cafe at the front of the restaurant. Choices include classic buttermilk pancakes; scrambled eggs with herbs and mascarpone; smoked salmon on rye bread with baby greens; and fried eggs with Jambon de Bayonne, romesco and rucula. There are also "make your own breakfast" add-ons such as avocado, bacon, tomato and smoked salmon.
no smokingdecorSunmapShibuya-ku, Sarugakucho 16-15. Open 7am-1am (LO) daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Daikanyama - World cuisine). 5489-3789
A branch of the Nishi-Azabu and Shibuya Monsoon Cafes, with eclectic Asian cuisine.
no smokinglateSunmapShibuya-ku, Hachiyamacho 15-4. Open 11:30-1am (LO) daily.
Taku (Nishi-Azabu - Sushi). 5774-4372
It's unusual to find high-quality sushi like this outside Ginza, but here it's presented in a modern dining room with late-night hours. They also serve French wines as an alternative to sake; wines from Y1000/ glass or Y10,000-Y150,000/ bottle. Budget around Y18,000 for dinner.
no smokinglatemapMinato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 2-11-5. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Zest (Nishi-Azabu - Tex-Mex). 3400-2235
Well-prepared, casual California-Mexican dishes and a variety of ever-popular frozen margaritas.
no smokinglateSunmapMinato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 2-13-15. Open 11:30-2:30am daily.
Gompachi (Nishi-Azabu - Japanese). 5771-0170
Good sushi and other straight-ahead Japanese fare from the late-night Global Dining group (La Boheme, Zest, etc.). The massive, multi-story space is always buzzing with activity, and sometimes seems to be the center of an international social scene in Tokyo.
no smokinglatedecorSunmapMinato-ku, Nishi-Azabu 1-13-11. Open 11:30am-2:45am daily.
!Homework's (Hiroo - Sandwiches/ burgers). 3444-4560
Some of the best burgers in town, along with terrific salads and sandwiches.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Hiroo 5-1-20. Open 11am-9pm (LO) (Sun. to 6pm). Open every day.
!Aladdin (Hiroo - French). 5420-0038
High-level French cooking in a pleasantly modern setting. Budget around Y15,000 at dinnertime, Y5000 for lunch.
no smokingmapShibuya-ku, Ebisu 2-22-10. Open noon-2, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
IR Second House (Shirokanedai - Bar). 6721-9253
With gorgeous decor and comfortable terrace seating, I/R Second House is a stylish neighbhorhood spot for casual food and craft beers. Food ranges from pizzas and burgers to serious grilled beef, lamb and pork.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Shirokanedai 4-9-10, Shirokanedai Green Leaves 2F. Open 11:30am-11pm. Closed Tuesdays.
La Boheme (Shirokanedai - Italian). 3442-4060
One of the few late-night spots in the neighborhood; pizzas and pastas in a multi-level, palatial setting.
no smokinglateSunmapMinato-ku, Shirokanedai 4-19-17. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Stellato (Shirokanedai - International). 3442-5588
Upscale California dining in a fun, thirties-movie-palace setting, from the owners of the Zest-La Boheme chain. Dinner with wine generally runs in the Y7,000-Y10,000 range. Bar open to 2am.
no smokingdecorSunmapMinato-ku, Shirokanedai 4-19-17. Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Grand Central Oyster Bar (Shinagawa - American). 6717-0932
Although they're not our favorite oyster bar in Tokyo, Grand Central does offer an impressively big selection of oysters from all over. There's also a large, varied wine list (heavy on the whites, naturally), with lots of choices by the glass, in case you feel like just dropping in for a drink at the bar.
no smokingSunmapShinagawa-ku, Konan 2-18-1, Atre Shinagawa 4F. Open 11am-11pm (LO) daily.
Tsubame Kitchen (Shinagawa - Yoshoku). 6717-0926
"Since 1930 Ginza" claims the sign, and they still offer the same nostalgic faux-Western yoshoku specialties like hamburg steaks, cabbage rolls and hayashi rice, for an inexpensive trip down memory lane. Lunch is served 11am-4pm.
no smokingSunmapShinagawa-ku, Konan 2-18-1, Atre Shinagawa 4F. Open 11am-midnight daily.
Shusaron (Shinagawa - Bar). 5449-4455
This small but stylish bar specializes in koshu (vintage sake), and they offer several different tasting sets to guide your explorations. The Y1260 set features three different types of koshu, and changes weekly. There's also a set comparing three different mature koshu (Y1890), and a set comparing 5-, 10-, and 32-year-old vintages from the same brewery (Y3150). The food menu is very simple - assorted cheeses and smoked dishes. There's a Y450 cover charge; budget around Y4000.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Takanawa 4-10-18, Wing Takanawa West 2F. Open 5-11:30pm (3-11:30pm Sat/Sun) daily.
Comme la Gueuze (Mita - Belgian rest/beer bar). 6435-2463
If you're used to seeing the same handful of Belgian beers on draft wherever you go around town, the six rotating taps at Comme la Gueuze will be a welcome change. The twenty-seat bar has a friendly, neighborhood feel, with a diverse crowd, helfpul staff and proper glassware. There's food too - frites and mussels and sausages - although it's more limited in scope than what you'll find at the larger Belgian establishments.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Shiba 5-24-16, Omamori Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-midnight daily.
!!DevilCraft (Hamamatsucho - Beer bar). 6435-8428
One of Tokyo's best craft beer bars, DevilCraft Hamamatsucho serves thirsty visitors from a nicely chosen roster of over twenty brews on tap, from both Japanese and American breweries, and, since late 2015, from their own Tokyo brewing facility. They're also known for their overstuffed deep-dish Chicago-style pizzas, and the Buffalo chicken wings and spinach-artichoke dip with tortilla chips make excellent starters.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Hamamatsucho 2-13-12. Open 5-11pm (Sat, Sun 11am-) daily.
!Roti Roppongi (Roppongi - International). 5785-3671
Superb, inventive American cuisine from noted Tokyo chef Ian Tozer, built around a deceptively casual menu. The dining room is pleasantly smoke-free, and there's outdoor patio seating when the weather permits.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Roppongi 6-6-9, Piramide Bldg. 1F. Open 11am-2, 6-10:30pm (LO) daily.
!!Ryugin (Roppongi - Kaiseki). 3423-8006
Chef Seiji Yamamoto does a very impressive take on experimental cuisine from a Japanese perspective, with eye-openers like edamame foam with pulverized ice cream and foie gras with figs. Eleven-course prix-fixe menus run Y15,750, Y21,000 and Y26,250, and there's a seven-sake selection paired with the food for an extra Y5000.
no smokinglatemapMinato-ku, Roppongi 7-17-24, Site Roppongi Bldg 1F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sunday.
Suzunami (Roppongi - Japanese). 5413-0335
This small Nagoya-based shop served excellent broiled fish that has been marinated in sake lees. Set meals are priced around Y1000-2000.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Akasaka 9-7-4, Tokyo Midtown Galleria B1F. Open 11am-3, 4:30-8:30pm (LO) daily.
LB6 (Roppongi - Grill). 3478-0222
A reasonably priced, very casual wine bar and grill. The eclectic wine list starts from Y2500/bottle, with 11 wines by the glass or decanter. There are also microbrew beers from Baird Brewery and artisanal cocktails. The food menu features dishes like grilled loin of pork and lamb chops, assorted hams, and shellfish steamed in wine.
no smokinglateSunmapMinato-ku, Roppongi 4-11-13. Open 5pm-3am daily.
Fujizakura (Roppongi - Beer bar). 5411-3333
Run by a Yamanashi brewery known for their excellent German-style beers, this basement venue feels less like a beer bar and more like an old-school Roppongi dining bar, with plush furnishings, fancy spot lighting, subdued piano music and a refined menu of bar snacks. The beers are good though - twelve taps serve both Fujizakura beers and half a dozen guest beers from the usual roster of Japanese craft breweries. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Roppongi 4-8-7, Shimada Bldg B1F. Open 5-11:30pm daily.
!L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Roppongi Hills - French). 5772-7500
"New-style French dining" in a very stylish dining room. The food is first-rate and the ambience is casual, with all counter seating. The focus of attention is the open kitchen space on the other side of the counter - a performance space really - where the chefs go about their work.
no smokingdecorSunmapMinato-ku, Roppongi 6-10-2, Roppongi Hills Hillside 220. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
Il Mulino (Roppongi Hills - Italian). 5786-0337
This popular international chain restaurant serves New York-style Italian fare, with a focus on Roman cuisine. The menu features ten veal dishes (ranging Y5000-8000), scampi, and a good selection of daily specials.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Roppongi 6-12-4, Keyakizaka-dori 2F. Open 6-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Napoleon Fish (Azabu-Juban - Chinese). 3479-6687
Spicy regional Chinese dishes from Guizhou and Yunnan provinces (just north of Laos and Vietnam). Budget around Y6-7000 at night, Y1000 at lunchtime.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Azabu-Juban 1-6-7. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
!Homework's (Azabu-Juban - Sandwiches/ burgers). 3405-9884
They grill up some of the best burgers in town, and also assemble great sandwiches (including an inspirational shrimp and avocado combination) and voluminous baskets of French fries.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Azabu-Juban 1-5-8. Open 11am-9pm (LO), Sundays to 6pm. Open every day.
Chef's Table (Azabu-Juban - South American). 6277-7326
Filling a gap in the Tokyo dining scene, The Chef's Table offers upscale Latin American cuisine paired with good, affordable wines. During a recent visit we enjoyed an impressive Argentine-style skirt steak for our main - the meat was intensely flavorful and paired with an assertive chimichurri sauce packed with garlic, chili and spices with a vinegary kick. Our entertaining mixed shellfish ceviche was also on the spicy side, balanced by the sweetness of coconut and slightly tart mango slices.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Azabu-Juban 1-11-10, Juban Annex Bldg 5F. Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Frijoles (Azabu-Juban - Tex-Mex). 6459-4095
Decent fast-food-style burritos, tacos, and fajitas, all made from premium organic ingredients. Choose from grilled chicken, carnitas (braised pork), steak or vegetarian filling; prices range from Y800-1100. There's a small but tastefully appointed dining area, or you can take out.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Azabu-Juban 2-3-5. Open 11am-10pm daily.
La Boheme (Azabu-Juban - Italian). 6400-3060
Inexpensive pastas and Italian wines by the glass, with convenient late-night hours.
no smokinglateSunmapMinato-ku, Azabu-Juban 2-3-7. Open 11:30-4:15am (LO) daily.
Wakanui (Azabu-Juban - Steak house). 3568-3466
Run by a New Zealand meat company, Wakanui was set up to introduce Tokyo gourmets to premium beef, lamb and wines from New Zealand, and they succeed quite admirably at that mission. The dining room is attractive but not overly fussy, with an open kitchen and a glass-enclosed aging room at one end to literally showcase the beef. The off-the-beaten-track location was chosen for its proximity to Nissin, an international market where patrons can pick up the same meats and wines that are served here and bring them home.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Higashi-Azabu 2-23-14, Towa Igrek B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
!Nirvanam (Kamiyacho - Indian). 3433-1217
The cooking here is a level above the usual Tokyo Indian restaurant - sophisticated dishes with distinctive flavors and top-quality ingredients. The emphasis is on southern Indian specialties (the owner is from Kerala), with lots of curries of mutton, fish and chicken and some great starters. The popular lunchtime buffet is bigger than average, with fifteen different dishes. Budget around Y3000-4500 at dinnertime.
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Toranomon 3-19-7. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Brasserie Paul Bocuse Musee (Nogizaka - French). 5770-8161
This stunning venture from the Hiramatsu group and the famous French chef Paul Bocuse occupies one of the most spectacular public spaces in Tokyo, inside the new national art gallery. Three-course prix-fixe lunch is Y1800; in the evening a la carte mains average around Y2700.
no smokingdecorSunmapMinato-ku, Roppongi 7-22-2, Kokuritsu Shin-Bijutsukan 3F. Open 11am-9pm (LO; lunch -2pm). Closed Tuesdays.
Yona Yona Beer Works (Akasaka - Beer bar). 5510-4789
Twelve beers from the Yona Yona (Yo-Ho Brewery) lineup are on tap here, including hand-pumped Yona Yona Real Ale and the very nice Aooni IPA. Food menu highlights include good roast chicken, and some nicely prepared fried potatoes with the skin attached. Lunchtime specials, served until 4pm, include roast chicken (Y1500) and grilled pork with BBQ sauce (Y1200).
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Nagatacho 2-14-3, Akasaka Tokyu Plaza 2F. Open 11:30am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Authentic (Akasaka - Burgers). 3505-8584
This cozy backstreet diner serves a menu of American-style gourmet burgers and sandwiches, to stay or to go. The unusual broccoli cheeseburger (Y1270) is one of our favorites - the slightly crunchy broccoli florets slathered with melted Monterey Jack cheese sitting atop the burger yield a pleasing combination of textures and flavors. Another novel offering is the peach burger (Y1200), made with yellow cling peaches in syrup.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Akasaka 2-18-19. Open 11am-2, 5-9pm (LO) daily.
!!Kikunoi (Akasaka - Kaiseki). 3568-6055
Third-generation kaiseki chef (and sometime TV celeb) Yoshihiro Murata is known for his innovative approach to kaiseki cuisine, drawing on French cooking techniques and ingredients. He has two branches in Kyoto, but this is his first Tokyo venture. Full-blown kaiseki service starts at Y15,750, with lunch priced at Y10,500. No lunch on Mondays.
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Akasaka 6-13-8. Open noon-1, 5-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Spice Diner (Tameike - Indian). 5521-0005
Tandoori dishes and spicy curries are paired with Japanese craft beers at this unpretentious basement Indian restaurant. The generous tandoori platter was the star of the evening during a recent visit, while spinach curry and a very spicy mutton and onion stir-fry were also first-rate. [Show more]
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Nagatacho 2-11-1, Sanno Park Tower B1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed weekends.
Frijoles (Tameike - Tex-Mex). 6459-1763
Decent fast-food-style burritos, tacos, and fajitas, all made from premium organic ingredients. Choose from grilled chicken, carnitas (braised pork), steak or vegetarian filling; prices range from Y800-1100. Outdoor seating is available.
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Akasaka 2-11-13, Common Akasaka 1F. Open 11am-8pm. Closed weekends.
!Fermintxo Boca (Roppongi 1-chome - Spanish). 6426-5760
Alluring Basque-style bocadillo baguette sandwiches are served at lunchtime here, and the namesake Fermintxo Boca sandwich (grilled Iberico pork loin, mozzarella and pimento) is especially recommended, as is the Iberico-pork sausage variety. [Show more]
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Roppongi 1-4-5, Ark Hills South Tower 1F. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO; Sat -9pm). Closed Sundays, holidays.
!!Anpuku (Toranomon - Udon). 6257-3850
Novel, fusion-style udon is the specialty here, with intriguing choices such as udon carbonara and beef-tendon curry udon. Recommendations include a very refined, Chinese-inspired tantanmen udon with a satisfyingly spicy sesame sauce, and a compelling Italian-style four-cheese udon that had me scooping up the very last of the sauce from the bowl. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Toranomon 1-26, Toranomon Hills 4F. Open 11am-2:30, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Toranomon Koffee (Toranomon - Coffee shop). 6268-8893
Serious coffee fans in the Toranomon area were happy to hear about the opening of this office-building branch of the cult-favorite Omotesando Koffee in Aoyama. The polished-wood decor is quite minimal, the better to focus attention on the laboratory-like coffee-brewing area.
no smokingdecorSunmapMinato-ku, Toranomon 1-23-3, Toranomon Hills Mori Tower 2F. Open 7am-9pm daily.
3rd Cafe (Toranomon - Cafe). 3539-3221
In addition to drip coffee and sandwiches, this tiny cafe also offers seven wines by the glass, priced at Y350-600. There's even a bit of terrace seating.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Toranomon 1-23, Toranomon Hills 3F. Open 7am-11pm daily.
!Craft Beer Market Toranomon (Uchisaiwaicho - Beer bar). 6206-1603
Craft Beer Market offers thirty different brews on draft, including a good number of seasonal specials. Prices are noticeably less expensive than the average Tokyo microbrew bar, with pints priced at just Y780 and glasses at Y480. (There's also a Y300 table charge.)
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Nishi-Shimbashi 1-23-3, SA Grace 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:30pm. Closed weekends.
Mu-hung (Uchisaiwaicho - Singaporean). 3591-6558
Singapore-style chicken rice is the well-prepared specialty at this tiny eight-seat counter, with your choice of either steamed or deep-fried chicken. (We prefer the deep-fried.) Other dishes include nice Malaysian curries with excellent fried roti (bread), and other Malaysian/Singaporean specialties.
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Nishi-Shimbashi 2-15-12, Eastern Bldg B1F. Open 11am-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Artistree Cafe (Uchisaiwaicho - Coffee shop). 6435-9047
Coffee from Dutch artisanal roaster JH and San Francisco's Zaranda roasters is served in this pleasantly modern coffee bar located near Toranomon Hills.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Nishi-Shimbashi 3-6-10. Open 8am-7pm (Sat, Sun 11-6) daily.
Ishii (Shimbashi - Izakaya). 3593-0141
If you're a sake afficianado you'll be delighted by the stellar selection at this unpretentious little izakaya. Chances are you'll make some interesting discoveries, and perhaps even meet a brewer who's dropped in for a drink while visiting Tokyo. The sake list changes weekly, and features many limited-edition, seasonal bottles from small craft breweries - the kind of selections that are seldom sold in retail stores.
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Shimbashi 2-15-10, Ishibashi Bldg 1F. Open 6-11pm (LO). Closed weekends.
Kuri (Shimbashi - Bar). 3438-3375
Run by the Moto-Azabu liquor shop Kurihara, this is a larger branch of the original Kuri in Ginza, specializing in sake and shochu. For your tasting cnovenience, sake comes in small (60ml) glasses as an option. Their list of posted rules includes a prohibition on strong perfumes and smoking. [Go to branch review]
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Shimbashi 3-19-4, Sakurai Bldg 2F. Open 4-11:30pm (drink LO). Closed Sundays.
Shinshu Osake Mura (Shimbashi - Bar). 3572-5488
Once devoted almost entirely to sake from Nagano Prefecture, this hole-in-the-wall standing bar now offers an excellent selection of Nagano craft beer as well, all at close to retail prices. The bar serves more than a dozen Japanese craft beers in bottles and cans, plus one or two on draft, starting at around Y240. [Show more]
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Shimbashi 2-20-15, Shimbashi Ekimae Bldg #1 1F. Open 11am-9:30pm (LO). Closed weekends.
!Dry Dock (Shimbashi - Beer bar). 5777-4755
Perhaps this isn't the narrowest bar in Tokyo, but it's certainly the narrowest bar offering such an impressive class of craft beers, both domestic and imported. Cleverly, the tiny space is fashioned to resemble a yacht, with porthole windows and nautical decor throughout. Three small tables fill the upper deck, while the lower deck is standing-room only, with space for maybe seven or eight along the port-side bar.
no smokingmapMinato-ku, Shimbashi 3-25-10. Open 5pm-12:30am. Closed Sundays.
!Tateru Yoshino (Shiodome - French). 6252-1155
Modern French cuisine from chef Tateru Yoshino, formerly of the Michelin-starred Stella Maris in Paris. The menu includes dishes like risotto of watercress with frogs legs; carpaccio of Canadian shrimp with corn ice cream; duck foie gras with crystalized eggplant in cacao sauce; and roast lamb with pumpkin puree. The attached wine bar offers cheaper a la carte options and very late hours for this office neighborhood.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Higashi-Shimbashi 1-7-1, Park Hotel Tokyo 25F. Open 7-10:30am, 11:30-2pm, 6-9pm (LO) daily.
Les Saisons (Hibiya - French). 3539-8087
The Imperial's French restaurant is a prime spot for business-meeting breakfasts in Ginza, and the food is traditional but top-notch. Breakfast is served from 7-10am, starting from Y3780.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Uchisaiwaicho 1-1-1, Imperial Hotel Mezzanine. Open 7-10am, 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm daily.
!Peter (Hibiya - International). 6270-2763
The flashy main dining room of the Peninsula Hotel offers gorgeous views and an entertaining menu of modern international cuisine. Have fun putting together your own meal of three, four, or five courses (from Y8500, or Y4800 at lunchtime), with down-to-earth dishes like their "Roasted Duck Foie Gras, Ginger Bread-Citrus Marmalade Mille Feuille, Foie Gras Ice Cream, Balsamic Yogurt". The wine cellar is made up mostly of half-bottles, starting at around Y3700; wine by the glass from Y1600.
no smokingdecorSunmapChiyoda-ku, Yurakucho 1-8-1, The Peninsula Tokyo 24F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6pm-midnight (LO 10pm) daily.
Club of Famous Curry Diners (Yurakucho - Curry). 3211-0616
Five famous Japanese curry shops have gotten together to create this tiny 15-seat counter. Try them all - for Y2500 you can get a set of curries from all five shops, or you can order individual curries for around Y1000 each. (The collaborating shops are Ethiopia, Delhi, Topca, Dom Pierre, and Hongo Petit Feu.)
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Yurakucho 2-7-1, Yurakucho Itocia Plaza B1F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Kimijimaya (Ginza - Liquor shop). 5159-6880
A branch of the huge Kimijimaya liquor store in Yokohama, this Ginza outpost offers a good selection of sake and runs an informal standing bar corner as well. Fourteen types of sake range from Y300-900 for a small tasting-size glass, or you can try your luck with the pre-selected three-part tasting flight.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 1-2-1. Open 10:30am-9pm (Sat -8, Sun -7) daily.
Gompachi (Ginza - Japanese). 5524-3641
Simple, well-prepared Japanese standards, including grilled chicken, in a lively atmosphere.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 1-2-3. (under the highway, across from Seiyo Hotel) Open 11:30am-3, 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Zest (Ginza - Tex-Mex). 5524-3621
Reasonably priced fare from the Tex side of the Tex-Mex border, with colorful frozen and non-frozen margaritas.
no smokinglateSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 1-2-3. (under the highway, across from Seiyo Hotel) Open 11:30-1:30am (LO) daily.
Sanshou (Ginza - Okonomiyaki). 050-3774-4402
If you've got a hearty appetite, the Special Sansho Okonomiyaki (¥1660) is the way to go - it's packed with plenty of shrimp and squid, pork, vegetables and ramen noodles, and topped with two juicy fried oysters. Sitting at the counter, you can watch the rather complicated assembly process step by step - it's quite impressive. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 1-6-10. Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily.
Brasserie Paul Bocuse Ginza (Ginza - French). 5159-0321
The third Tokyo restaurant from Lyon-based celeb-chef Paul Bocuse offers prix-fixe dinners from Y5500-9500. Wines are Y5000-250,000, with less scarily priced options by the glass or carafe. The impressively large dining room has a curved wall of windows overlooking Ginza to the south.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 10F. Open 11am-2:30, 5:30-9pm (LO) daily.
Miravile Impakt (Ginza - Cafe). 5524-0417
This outpost of the popular Miravile restaurant in Komaba specializes in desserts - with an Y1890 three-course menu (starter dessert with tea, main platter of two desserts with tea, final dessert plus tea or coffee) and a Y2980 version that includes drinks. The decor is elegant and casual - boldly colored graphics on the walls, burnt-orange stools at a wide counter plus a few small tables along the wall.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 10F. Open 11am-4, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
Vietnam Alice (Ginza - Vietnamese). 5250-0801
Refined Vietnamese classics from the chef behind the upscale Queen Alice restaurants. Try the desserts recommended by their "vegetable sommelier"! Budget around Y4000 for dinner.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 11F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Bincho (Ginza - Unagi). 5159-0231
This first Tokyo branch of a famous Nagoya shop prepares eel that's grilled over binchotan charcoal and served with their own special Nagoya-style tamari sauce. Lunch and dinner sets are Y2380-5900; there are also other eel and side dish options and a better-than-average sake selection.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 12F. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
!Bulgari, Il Ristorante (Ginza - Italian). 6362-0555
Top-notch, creative Italian fare, beautifullly presented, from the very talented chef Luca Fantin. The main dining room is modern and stylish; there's also a popular bar-lounge area one level up (open noon-midnight), and a rooftop lounge with a great Tokyo view. Prix-fixed lunches are priced Y5,000-10,000; dinners are Y13,000-22,000. On Sundays they're open only for lunch.
no smokingmapChuo-ku, Ginza 2-7-12, Ginza Tower 8F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Dazzle (Ginza - International). 5159-0991
The immodestly named Dazzle is one of Tokyo's flashiest restaurants, with futuristic lighting and a theatrical entrance - the elevator deposits you in the middle of the kitchen, after which you take a second ride to the glitzy dining room. The food is entertainingly fusionesque, and is accompanied by wines from France, Italy, Spain, Australia, America and Japan, starting in the Y5000 range. Budget around Y6,000-9,000 per person before drinks.
no smokingdecorSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 2-4-12, Mikimoto Ginza 2, 8/9F. Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Beige (Ginza - French). 5159-5500
Master chef Alain Ducasse's joint venture with Chanel provides excellent modern French cuisine in a lovely setting. The food isn't quite as spectacular as the prices though - mains average Y8000-9000, with prix-fixe dinner menus from Y17,000. Lunches start at Y6000 (for a three-course vegetarian menu), and there are a few wines under Y10,000. There's also a popular afternoon tea set (Y2600) served from 2:30-4pm.
no smokingdecorSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 3-5-3, Chanel Building 10F. Open 11:30-2:30, 2:30-4 (tea), 6-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Mariage Freres (Ginza - Tea shop). 3572-1854
With 450 varieties of world teas from 32 countries, Mariage Freres in Ginza offers the tea aficionado a rare combination of elegance, atmosphere and quality. Only the "finest harvests" are offered to complement an excellent selection of light meals and sinful desserts. Non-smoking.
no smokingmapChuo-ku, Ginza 5-6-6. Open noon-8pm.
Hakarime (Ginza - Izakaya). 6253-7070
Anago eel and warm sake are the specialties at this popular spot. Budget around Y6000-8000 for food and drink. No lunch on Saturdays.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 5-9-5, Cheers Ginza 6F. Open noon-2:30, 5:30-11:30pm daily.
La Boheme (Ginza - Italian). 3572-5005
Inexpensive pastas and Italian wines by the glass, with convenient late-night service.
no smokinglateSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 6-4-1, Tokaido Ginza Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2:45am (LO) daily.
!Kyubei (Ginza - Sushi). 3571-6523
Yes you can pay a lot more for sushi at Michelin multi-starred counters if you want to, but Kyubei offers excellent quality fish at somewhat more affordable prices, especially at lunchtime, in a much more relaxed setting. (Some of the chefs even speak a bit of English.) Kyubei were the inventors of gunkan-maki (the wrap-around technique for fish roe and similar sushi). Lunches start at Y4000 for a nigiri set menu, or Y8000 for omakase. Dinners from Y10,000, with a Y30,000 kaiseki sushi course that's quite a spectacle.
no smokingmapChuo-ku, Ginza 8-7-6. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
!!Dharmasagara (Higashi-Ginza - Indian). 3545-5588
Popular with Indian customers, Dharmasagara serves great South Indian cuisine, with especially good dosa and other breads and plenty of interesting vegetable-centered options. Lunch from Y1200, prix-fixe dinner from Y3150 or a la carte.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 4-14-6, Ginza Eight Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
Mother Leaf (Higashi-Ginza - Tea shop). 3545-1631
Mother Leaf brews aromatic teas from five varieties of Sri Lankan tea leaves in a peaceful, smoke-free atmosphere.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Ginza 5-14-5. Open 11am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
!Il Ghiottone (Marunouchi - Italian). 5220-2006
This first Tokyo branch of one of Kyoto's best Italian restaurants occupies a small, minimal but elegant dining room facing the street. Dinner is either Y7500 or Y10,000 - chef's omakase menu only - with reasonably priced bottles and half-bottles of Italian wines. Lunch from Y2000.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 2-7-3, Tokyo Bldg Tokia 1F. Open 11am-2, 6-9pm (LO) daily.
!Tokyo Karaage Bar (Marunouchi - Chicken). 6256-0897
Tokyo Karaage Bar does more than just serve great fried chicken - they've turned it into a fun evening out. The menu is much more elaborate than other karaage shops: first of all, you get to choose your favorite parts of the bird - wings, breast, thigh, fatty bonjiri (tail), gizzards, liver. Each order is around ¥378, so you can mix and match without worrying too much about the evening's budget. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 2-7-2, JP Tower Kitte B1F. Open 10am-9pm (LO) daily.
Kua 'Aina (Marunouchi - Sandwiches/ burgers). 5220-2400
Hawaiian-style burgers and sandwiches. The atrium deck is very airy and pleasant, but seating there is limited.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 2-4-1, Marunouchi Bldg. 5F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Au Gout du Jour Nouvelle Ere (Marunouchi - French). 5224-8070
Michelin-starred traditional French dining overlooking Tokyo Station. Prix-fixe lunches are Y3,500-6,000, dinners Y7,000-12,000.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 1-5-1, Shin-Marunouchi Bldg 5F. Open 11am-1:30, 6-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Hasegawa Saketen (Palace Hotel) (Marunouchi - Liquor shop). 5220-2828
This relatively quiet branch of the popular Hasegawa sake retail specialist is furnished with a small counter area where you can try out a tasting set of three sake of the month, along with a tiny snack, for Y1260.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 1-1-1, Palace Hotel B1F. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Dean & Deluca (Marunouchi - American). 3284-7071
Mostly an all-day cafe/restaurant, although they also have a small deli counter and grocery section with coffees and teas, spices, baked goods, cold cuts, four kinds of smoked salmon, and real dill pickles. Groceries cover the luxury end of the spectrum, with Y1800 jars of pasta sauce and exotic pates.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 1-4-5, Mitsubishi Trust Building 1F. Open 7am-11pm daily.
Lou (Yaesu - Dim sum). 6256-0377
Chinese dumplings - to eat in or take out - are the specialty of this Kamakura-based shop inside the new Gran Roof complex next to Tokyo Station. The take-out menu includes three types of gyoza (shrimp, shrimp-shiso and pork-shrimp), three types of shumai, pork buns and a few rice dishes. Dumplings start at around Y100 per dumpling, and there's a Y1500 deluxe bento if you want to splurge.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 1-9-1, Tokyo Gran Roof B1F. Open 10am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Yabaton (Yaesu - Tonkatsu). 3212-8810
One of Nagoya's most famous tonkatsu shops, Yabaton is known for their tasty miso-slathered cutlets and their cute pig-sumo wrestler mascot. The teppan tonkatsu (¥1365) is their best-selling dish - a hefty portion of fatty pork cutlet covered in a sweetish miso sauce, laid over a bed of cabbage and served on a metal platter that steams and sizzles at it arrives in front of you. The large and very meaty pork soup is highly recommended as a side dish.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 1-9-1, Tokyo Gran Roof B1F. Open 10am-10pm (LO) daily.
Towers (Kyobashi - Beer bar). 3272-8488
This tiny standup bar always has a number of good Japanese microbrews and international beers on tap. Food is limited to snacks.
no smokingmapChuo-ku, Yaesu 2-8-10. Open 5:30-11pm. Closed weekends.
Frijoles (Otemachi - Tex-Mex). 6256-0388
Decent fast-food-style burritos, tacos, and fajitas, all made from premium organic ingredients. Choose from grilled chicken, carnitas (braised pork), steak or vegetarian filling; prices range from Y800-1100.
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Otemachi 1-5-1, Otemachi First Square East 1F. Open 11am-10pm (Sat -6pm). Closed Sundays.
Camp (Otemachi - Curry). 6273-4635
The healthy and quite tasty Japanese curries here are heavy on the vegetables - in fact the special of the house promises a full day's ration of vegetables. The shop itself is decorated in a whimsical camping-equipment theme - portable lanterns, backpacks, thermos bottles - and most dishes are served on miniature iron skillets.
no smokingdecormapChiyoda-ku, Otemachi 1-5-5, Otemachi Tower Ootemori B2F. Open 11am-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Gent (Otemachi - Belgian rest/beer bar). 6273-4662
The seventh (and smallest) Tokyo venue from the Belgian Beer Cafe group, Gent (with a hard "g") is located in the basement of a new Otemachi office complex called Ootemori. They offer the the usual selection of several dozen Belgian beers, with four or five on tap, and unusually for this neighborhood, they are open on Sundays (at least for now). Note that there is a Y500 table charge.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Otemachi 1-5-5, Otemachi Tower Ootemori B2F. Open 11am-11pm (LO; 9:30pm Sat, Sun) daily.
Ventaglio (Mitsukoshimae - Italian). 3270-8188
Lunch and dinner buffets of modern Italian cuisine in a beautiful open-atrium dining space. The weekday lunch buffet is Y2900; weekend lunch is Y4200, dinner is Y5000, and the weekend dessert buffet (3-5pm) is Y2700. They also offer a wine buffet to go with dinner.
no smokingdecorSunmapChuo-ku, Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-1, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-9pm daily.
K'Shiki (Mitsukoshimae - International). 3270-8188
The Mandarin Oriental's casual-dining spot offers creative contemporary cuisine with an Asian twist, plus a great view of Ginza and Marunouchi. In the morning you'll find good Japanese and international breakfasts (Y2800-3800).
no smokingdecorSunmapChuo-ku, Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-1, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo 38F. Open 6am-2:30, 5:30-11pm daily.
!!Sense (Mitsukoshimae - Chinese). 3270-8188
The Mandarin Oriental's Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant offers an excellent weekend dim sum lunch from 11:30am-4pm. Choose from twenty varieties, all you can eat, for Y5000 (+10%). Weekday lunches start at Y3800, dinners from Y14,000.
no smokingdecorSunmapChuo-ku, Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-1, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo 38F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm daily.
!!Tapas Molecular Bar (Mitsukoshimae - Experimental). 3270-8188, 0120-806-823
Here inside the Mandarin Hotel's 38th-floor lounge, the eight-seat Tapas Molecular Bar serves cutting-edge modern cuisine. Twenty-one plates of highly inventive, deconstructivist, very tasty morsels are presented over the course of two hours (Y14,000+13%sc).
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-1, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo 38F. Open 6, 8:30pm daily.
Zakuro (Mitsukoshimae - Japanese). 3241-4841
Shabu-shabu, sukiyaki and other Japanese beef dishes; they also offer pork shabu-shabu. Prix-fixe dinners are priced Y5,000-15,000; lunch from around Y2000.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-2-1, Coredo Muromachi 4F. Open 11am-2:30, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
!Craft Beer Market Mitsukoshimae (Mitsukoshimae - Beer bar). 6262-3145
CBM offers thirty beers on tap - mostly Japanese craft beers - priced at a very budget-friendly Y480/glass or Y780/pint. The food menu is also fairly impressive, with dishes like roast duck a l'orange, and they offer a small but interesting selection of seasonal sake.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Nihonbashi Muromachi 1-5-5, Coredo Muromachi 3, 1F. Open 11am-2, 5-11:30pm daily.
Dandan (Kayabacho - Izakaya). 3551-4920
This very old-fashioned izakaya has a genuine shitamachi (tradional Tokyo) feel to it - sumo paraphernalia on the walls, colorful kites on the ceiling, a TV set going in the corner, and three big communal tables for customers. The shop is especially known for their beef motsu nikomi, a salty, intensely flavored miso-based stew featuring a variety of organ meats. [Show more]
no smokingmapChuo-ku, Shinkawa 1-8-20. Open 5-10pm. Closed weekends.
Beer Wars (Kodenmacho - Beer bar). 6661-7319
A solid selection of US craft beers, good food, and a friendly atmosphere make this a popular destination for neighborhood beer lovers. Six taps are devoted to US breweries like Karl Strauss, Victory and New Belgium, with 400ml glasses priced at Y880 (and 250ml glasses at Y680). There's also one craft cider on tap, and a small selection of sake and shochu if someone in your party isn't in a craft-beer mood. [Show more]
no smokingmapChuo-ku, Nihonbashi Odenmacho 12-17. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:30pm (Sat 1-10:30). Closed Sundays.
Ebiden (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 3353-2990
Good tempura at reasonable prices at this unpretentious neighborhood shop. The tempura teishoku is Y1890, full-course dinners are Y2940, and fancy kaiseki menus start at Y5250. Lunch starts at Y680, with a deluxe tempura teishoku going for Y1260.
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Sakamachi 15. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Shoji (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 5379-3557
One of the specialties of the house at this first-rate tempura counter is anago, served with a tasty golden-brown coating that's thicker than average and satisfyingly crunchy. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5,000, Y7,000 and Y10,000, with reasonably priced sake and wines to accompany your meal. Voluminous deluxe donburi lunches are a bargain at Y1700-2000.
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 2-18, Win Yotsuya 2F. Open 11:30am-1, 6-8:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Gachi (Akebonobashi - Ramen). 6380-4874
There's no better way to enjoy amazing, housemade ramen noodles than in a bowl of abura soba. Literally meaning oil-noodles, abura soba leaves the soup out, with only some tare seasoning, oils, and toppings. Gachi, part of the Mensho ramen group, has a noodle factory in the back. Depending on the time you go, you might see someone back there feeding sheets of dough through the noodle machine, prepping for the next day. [Show more]
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Sumiyoshicho 7-10. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Okagesan (Yotsuya - Izakaya). 3355-8100
The sake selection at this Michelin-starred izakaya is pretty impressive, and the food is above average, but not quite good enough to justify the prices. Prix-fixe menus are the only option, and they start at Y5000. Seating is cramped, but service is friendly and the non-smoking policy improves things a bit.
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Yotsuya 2-10, Matsumotokan B1F. Open 6-10:15pm (LO). Closed Sundays, Mondays.
Healthy Kan (Ichigaya - Japanese/health food). 3263-4023
A tasty assortment of healthy Japanese dishes and excellent Belgian beer.
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Rokubancho 4, Asahi Rokubancho Mansion 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 4:30-9pm. Closed Sundays.
No 4 (Ichigaya - Bakery). 3234-4440
Part of the same restaurant group as TY Harbor Brewery, this casual bakery and all-day cafe has three of TY Harbor's craft beers on tap for your drinking pleasure. They also make their own "bakery-style pizza," and serve a casual food menu all day long. Reservations are not accepted.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Yonbancho 5-9. Open 8am-9pm daily.
Chez Olivier (Ichigaya - French). 6268-9933
Excellent-quality modern French cuisine at this elegant bistrot-restaurant. Chef Olivier was a veteran of La Tour d'Argent in Paris and the Cordon Bleu cooking school in Tokyo before opening his namesake restaurant. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5800 and Y8000 (or order a la carte), and the wine list offers some reasonably priced options under Y6000. Budget around Y10,000-12,000 with drinks. Lunches start at Y1575; no lunch on Saturday.
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kudan-Minami 4-1-10. Open 11:30am-2, 6:30-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Yakuoji Cafe (Ushigome-Yanigicho - Coffee shop). 3269-0575
An artsy little neighborhood cafe serving espresso beverages, drip coffee of the day, and matcha. Lunches run Y500-1000, and they also roast their own beans, on sale from Y450/100g.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Ichigaya Yakuojicho 66. Open 8:30am-8pm (Sun 11:30-7). Closed Saturdays.
Mojo Coffee (Kagurazaka - Cafe). 6265-3286
A New Zealand coffee specialist, Mojo roasts their beans onsite and serves espresso drinks in down-under variations like Flat White and Long Black. The small neighborhood shop has a minimalist modern decor and a soundtrack veering towards alt-rock.
no smokingSunmapShinjuku-ku, Akagi-Motomachi 4-11, 2F. Open 7am-8pm daily.
Paul (Kagurazaka - Bakery). 6280-7723
Good pastries and sandwiches, to eat in or take out, at this French-based bakery-cafe.
no smokingmapShinjuku-ku, Kagurazaka 5-1-4, Kagurazaka Terrace 1F. Open 10am-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Lina's Sandwiches (Suidobashi - Sandwiches/ deli). 5281-9881
Tucked away in the rather institutional-looking basement of the Athenee Francaise, this branch of the French-based cafe serves a range of good, made-to-order French-style sandwiches.
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Surugadai 2-11, Athenee Francais B1F. Open 11am-7:30pm. Closed Sundays.
!Craft Beer Market (Jimbocho - Beer bar). 6272-5652
Somewhat less expensive than the average Tokyo microbrew bar, US pints here are priced at just Y780 and glasses at Y480. (There's also a Y300 table charge.) You can choose from thirty different mostly local brews on draft, including an exclusive beer from Baird Brewery. The food is also quite good, with well-prepared dishes like rotisserie chicken and roast duck a l'orange.
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Jimbocho 2-11-15. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Craft Beer Market Terrace (Jimbocho - Beer bar). 5244-5288
Located a few minutes from CBM's first Jimbocho outlet, this branch offers a spacious open-air seating area for when weather permits. Beers are the same budget-friendly prices as at other branches (Y480 for small glasses and Y780 for pints), and the thirty taps dispense both Japanese and imported craft beers.
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Nishikicho 3-22, Terrace Square 1F. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!!Yamituki Curry (Jimbocho - Curry). 3295-5105
The original Japanese curries here incorporate umami-rich coconut milk, ripe tomatoes and cheese as well as fresh seasonal vegetables. Some popular options (from Y730) are oysters and spinach with baked cheese; ripe tomato, eggplant and chicken; and pork-cabbage, while extra toppings (mostly Y100) include corn, bamboo shoots, coriander, garlic shoots and tofu.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Jimbocho 1-56-3. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Katchan (Jimbocho - Gyukatsu). 5577-6050
Katchan serves a unique, very tasty dipping sauce for their gyukatsu - it's both spicy and sweet, and it really brings out the flavor of the meat. The recommended dish here is the double-size portion of gyukatsu (beef cutlet) with menchi katsu (deep-fried minced-meat patty) on the side, a bargain at just ¥1180. The beef is tender and served rare in the middle, and the menchi katsu is the perfect counterpoint - very juicy with lots of onion bits adding texture and flavor, wrapped in a crunchy fried shell. [Show more]
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Jimbocho 1-8. Open 11am-3:30, 5-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
!La-show-han (Ogawamachi - Ramen). 090-9300-6841
Tantanmen is a direct descendant of Chinese dandanmein. This dish of Sichuan origin is spicy, and a traditional bowl will have plenty of chili oil, Sichuan peppercorn, and minced pork. You can find tantanmen at many Chinese restaurants in Japan, but for the best bowls, you have to go to shops that specialize in the dish. [Show more]
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Nishikicho 1-4-8. Open 11am-3pm (Sat -2pm), 5:30-8pm. Closed Sundays.
Wiz (Awajicho - Beer bar). 6206-8805
Thirty-one taps of craft beer are ready to pour here - both top-grade Japanese brews and solid US and European imports. The food menu ranges from simple tapas-style dishes like salmon carpaccio to original versions of Tex-Mex fare like tacos and nachos.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Awajicho 2-105, Watteras Tower Annex 108. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
Machineko (Iwamotocho - Cat cafe). 6206-8132
The setup at this rescue-cat cafe is quite minimal - a few perches and climbing trees, some lockers and vending machines and a few seats for visitors, a handful of cat-themed magazines and just a few cat toys. There's a radio playing in one corner.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Sudacho 2-8-4, Dai-ni Kanda Sudacho Bldg 5F. Open 2-8pm (Sat, Sun noon-8). Closed Tuesdays, Fridays.
Carp (Kanda - Okonomiyaki). 5296-0080
Named after Hiroshima's baseball team, this brightly lit, old-fashioned shop serves Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki all day long. You can choose from ramen ("soba") or udon noodles, with a few optional toppings like garlic cloves, squid, shrimp, cheese and corn, all displayed on hand-written menus on the wall. [Show more]
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Kajicho 3-5. Open 11am-9:30pm (LO; Sat -8pm). Closed Sundays, Mondays.
Yona Yona Beer Works (Kanda - Beer bar). 5289-4747
The second Tokyo outlet of Nagano Prefecture's Yo-Ho Brewing, this Kanda branch offers a more ambitious food menu as well as a dozen of the brewery's beers on draft, including a couple of hand-pumped real ales. Excellent roast Date chicken, an heirloom breed from Fukushima Prefecture, is the specialty of the house and it's well worth a try. With beautifully crisp skin and juicy meat, it comes in whole, half and quarter bird sizes.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Sudacho 1-24-6. Open 4-10:30pm (LO; Sat, Sun 11:30am-) daily.
!Kikanbou (Kanda - Ramen). 3256-2960
You'll find spicy ramen on many shop's menus. This usually means they take their normal bowl, throw in some chili peppers, and call it a day. Many of these bowls are just hot, with very little in terms of complexity. Only a few shops really focus on balancing spice with other flavors to create an amazing bowl of ramen. Kikanbo goes beyond the call of duty with their spicy miso ramen. [Show more]
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kajicho 2-10-10. Open 11am-4, 5:30-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Kura Kura Ji-beer House (Kanda - Beer bar). 6206-8866
The off-the shelf snack-bar decor here is perked up by a cozy counter bar with five seats and twelve taps dispensing some of Japan's best microbrew beers. The small menu includes a few good chicken dishes, including raw chicken with pungent wasabi, plus the usual sausages, potatoes, etc. One of the oldest Japanese microbrew bars, Kura Kura was located in Shimo-Kitazawa for ten years before their move to Kanda. No smoking.
no smokingmapChiyoda-ku, Kajicho 1-4-6, Tokyo Kanda Bldg. 3F. Open 5-11:30pm. Closed Sundays.
!DevilCraft (Kanda - Beer bar). 6265-1779
Excellent Chicago-style deep-dish pizza is served here, and the fifteen taps in the cozy ground-floor bar area dispense a good selection of craft beers from Japan and the US, including some from DevilCraft's own Tokyo brewery.
no smokingSunmapChuo-ku, Nihonbashi Muromachi 4-2-3. Open 5-11pm (LO; Sun -9:30pm) daily.
!Tucano's (Akihabara - Brazilian). 5295-2611
This very informal counter bar is billed as a galetteria - a Brazilian-style charcoal-grilled chicken specialist - but the one-pound beef rump steak and the 600g "gigasteak" seem to be just as popular with the seriously carnivorous customer base here.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Hanaokacho 1-1, Yodobashi Akiba 1F. Open 10:30am-10pm daily.
Moff Rell (Akihabara - Rabbit cafe). 3254-2323
The rabbits seem friendlier and more outgoing than average at this small cafe. Perhaps it's a result of the cafe's policy of providing all visitors with a complimentary packet of rabbit snacks upon arrival. There are two small playrooms, with two or three rabbits running loose and room for two or three customers in each.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Soto-Kanda 4-8-3, Saison Akihabara 2F. Open noon-9pm. Closed some Mondays.
Tokyo Curry-ya Meitenkai (Akihabara - Curry). 5289-3821
This tiny counter shop inside Akihabara Atre has assembled five famous Japanese curry shops from this curry-strong neighborhood - mini-branches of Kyoeido, Ethiopia, Delhi, Topca and Hongo Petit Feu. For Y2500 you can try a sampling of curries from all five shops, or you can order individual curries for around Y1000 each; other combination sets are also available.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Soto-Kanda 1-17-6, Atre Akihabara 1 1F. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Akiba Fukurou (Akihabara - Bird cafe). unlisted
This owl cafe in the center of Akihabara has a unique atmosphere - more like a theme-park attraction than an animal cafe. From the outside it looks like a repurposed downtown office, but inside it's a fantasy world of sleepy owls, crystal chandeliers, uniformed staff and soft classical music.
no smokingSunmapChiyoda-ku, Kanda Neribeicho 67. Open 11am-8pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Neko Maru Cafe Ueno (Ueno - Cat cafe). 5826-2501
There are twenty-six feline residents - many of them rescue cats from a local shelter - at this conveniently located cafe just around the corner from Ueno station. The playroom is furnished with climbing trees, lots of empty boxes to explore, and fourteen seats for visitors. Entrance fees start at just Y350 for fifteen minutes (on weekdays), so you can check it out without a lot of risk before you commit yourself.
no smokingSunmapTaito-ku, Ueno 7-2-2, 8F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Yumeya (Asakusa - Curry). 3841-1681
This rather unpretentious shop may not win any awards for their decor, but they serve up very good Indo-style Japanese curries and credible naans. A curry set with rice or naan (and Japanese curry-shop pickles) will run around Y1100; Y200 extra to super-size your curry portion.
no smokingSunmapTaito-ku, Asakusa 1-35-8. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-8pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
!Asakusa Gyukatsu (Asakusa - Gyukatsu). 3842-1800
This tiny, nine-seat counter shop just may serve the best gyukatsu in Tokyo. The meat is beautifully marbled, encased in a thin, softly crunchy coating and quite tasty with just a bit of grated rock salt. Do try the onion sauce though - this is also one of the best in town, assertively pungent with a bit of kick to it. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapTaito-ku, Kaminarimon 2-17-10, Kaminarimon Uemura Bldg B1F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO; Sat -9:30, Sun -8:30) daily.
Zanmai (Asakusa - Sushi). 5826-1375
Good value for money and a wide selection of fish at this convenient 24-hour branch of the famous Tsukiji-based sushi shop.
no smokinglateSunmapTaito-ku, Asakusa 1-3-6. Open 24 hours a day.
Campion Ale (Asakusa - Brewpub). 6231-6554
Five British-style ales on tap, all brewed on premises at this small brewpub. Prices are Y800 for pints and Y500 for half-pints. Food includes shepherd's pie, meat pies and beef stew. Open from noon on weekends.
no smokingSunmapTaito-ku, Nishi-Asakusa 2-2-2. Open 5-11pm daily.
Monta (Asakusa - Cat cafe). 5830-7428
This cat cafe in the heart of tourist-filled Asakusa has a limited number of cats - eight at last count - but the staff seem to be good at keeping them engaged with various cat toys and other entertainment. The playroom is nicely furnished with comfortable sofas and cafe tables, making it a pleasant spot to stop for a quick coffee or a snack if you're in the neighborhood. They serve pastas and desserts as well as drinks.
no smokingSunmapTaito-ku, Hanakawado 1-5-2, Satellite Fuji Bldg 8F. Open 11am-8pm (last entry 7:30pm). Closed Tuesdays.
Tiger Gyoza Hall (Asakusa - Gyoza). 3847-1355
Run by a large and diverse Asian-cuisine restaurant group, Tiger is devoted solely to gyoza dumplings, both fried and boiled. The signature dish is the extra-large Banana Gyoza, so named for its elongated shape. These have a voluminous pork filling that's wrapped in a thick, chewy, lightly charred casing. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapTaito-ku, Asakusa 1-25-17. Open 11:30am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Tokyo Curry-ya Meitenkai (Oshiage - Curry). 5610-3012
Five of the most popular Japanese curry shops in Tokyo's Kanda area have gotten together to create this casual shop where you can try their curries individually or in various combinations. A set of all five curries is priced at Y2600.
no smokingSunmapSumida-ku, Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 1F East Yard 26. Open 10am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Rokurinsha (Oshiage - Ramen). 5809-7368
This very popular shop is known for their tsukemen, served with a thick, richly flavored dipping sauce made with pork, seafood and vegetables. Prepare to wait on line during busy times.
no smokingSunmapSumida-ku, Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard 17. Open 10:30am-11pm daily.
Brasserie Aux Amis (Oshiage - French). 5809-7477
A tourist-friendly outlet of the popular upscale French wine-bar chain. Prix-fixe lunches are priced Y2,800-Y9,800, dinners Y6,500-Y11,000.
no smokingSunmapSumida-ku, Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 30F East Yard 2. Open 11am-3, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Bakushuan (Otsuka - Beer bar). 3915-4550
Although it looks like an old-fashioned izakaya inside, Bakushuan serves a modern selection of ten Japanese and US craft beers on tap in addition to its very respectable sake list. The food menu is well above average for a beer bar, featuring sake-friendly nibbles and oysters prepared in various ways.
no smokingSunmapToshima-ku, Kita-Otsuka 2-27-1, Yoshimatsu Bldg 2F. Open 6pm-1am. Closed Mondays.
!Shinasoba Tanaka (Otsuka - Ramen). 3988-0118
The master at Tanaka commutes in to this shop every day from the far side of Chiba, about two hours away. He is a surfer, and that part of Japan has some nice waves in the morning. That part of Japan is also famous for seafood, and the bowl at Tanaka reflects this. [Show more]
no smokingmapToshima-ku, Higashi-Ikebukuro 2-19-2. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (Sat 11-3). Closed Sundays.
Donaiya (Otsuka - Takoyaki). 3984-5115
The takoyaki here embodies a dramatic contrast of textures - a firm and slightly chewy outer shell surrounding an interior that's squishy and gooey, ready to come gushing out when prodded with chopsticks. The octopus, when you can find a piece, is remarkably soft and tender. Mentaiko (codfish roe) mayonnaise sauce is an appealingly spicy topping, and worth the ¥50 extra; other options include tart ponzu sauce, dashi, soy sauce and plain salt. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapToshima-ku, Minami-Otsuka 3-33-1, Atre Vie Otsuka 1F. Open 10am-9pm daily.
!!Souten (Minami-guchi) (Otsuka - Yakitori). 5944-8105
Souten stands out from the crowd thanks to the high quality of their birds, the creativity of their side dishes and their excellent selection of craft sake. Ordering one of the seasonal set menus is a good strategy here - they change every month, and feature game birds when available. During one mid-autumn visit I enjoyed a delicious confit of tiny quail legs, tender guinea fowl, and skewers of fatty wild duck over the course of the evening. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapToshima-ku, Minami-Otsuka 3-39-13. Open 5:30-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Tsuta (Sugamo - Ramen). 3943-1007
Tsuta, near Sugamo Station on the northern side of the Yamanote train line, can be a bit of a hassle to get to. They are only open for lunch, and often have a huge line. Expect a wait of twenty or thirty minutes. But if you were going to choose just one line to wait in, Tsuta wouldn't be a bad decision. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapToshima-ku, Sugamo 1-14-1. Open 11am-4pm. Closed Tuesdays, Wednesdays.
!Kabochan (Komagome - Ramen). unlisted
This tiny ramen shop down a small shopping street was a hand-me-down to the current owner. Kubokawa-san, whose nickname is Kabo-chan, was a well repected ramen hunter before he took over this ramen and kakigori shop. Yes, this is one of those ramen shops that serves Japanese-style shaved ice. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapKita-ku, Nishigahara 1-54-1. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-9pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Sakazuki Brewing (Adachi-ku - Brewpub). 5284-9432
Open since March 2016, this neighborhood brewpub offers six taps of their own beer, priced at Y540 for a 300ml pour. The interior is very brightly lit but the bar is welcoming and friendly, with ample table seating and a comfortable counter.
no smokingSunmapAdachi-ku, Senju Asahicho 11-10. Open 4-10pm (LO; Sat, Sun 1pm-). Closed Mon, Tue.
Beer++ (Kita-ku - Brewpub). 5948-5657
This small local brewpub serves a few types of ale on tap and a guest cider, while the food menu features organic vegetables grown on the rooftop. There's a standing bar on the ground floor and tables in the spacious second-floor dining room.
no smokingmapKita-ku, Kamijujo 2-7-13. Open 5-10:30pm (LO; Sat 3-9:30). Closed Sun, Mon.
Neko Maru Cafe East (Kinshicho - Cat cafe). 5608-8007
The spacious playroom at Neko Maru East is pleasantly scruffy, filled with baskets and cardboard boxes, perches and multi-story miniature houses that are well-used by the resident 33 cats. Visitor seating is comfortable, if a bit scratched up, and beer and coctails are served after 6pm in addition to the usual coffee and tea. You can also order pasta dishes if you're hungry.
no smokingSunmapSumida-ku, Kinshi 2-5-11, Funada Bldg 3F. Open noon-10pm daily.
Juhachiban (Daiba - Takoyaki). 3599-6218
Juhachiban set themselves apart from the other shops in Daiba's takoyaki theme park with their pleasantly crunchy shell, made by using harder-than-average tenkasu (bits of tempura-fried batter) in the takoyaki batter. Among the variations here is a simple salt and toasted nori version that really brings out the flavor of the octopus filling. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Daiba 1-6-1, Decks Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall 4F. Open 11am-9pm daily.
Kukuru (Daiba - Takoyaki). 3599-6017
My favorite of the shops inside the Takoyaki Museum mini-theme park, Kukuru offers three takoyaki variations - regular, cheese, and akashiyaki. The regular version has nicely balanced flavors and tasty octopus bits, while the omelette base of the akashiyaki is pleasantly runny and soft. A set of four regular and four akashiyaki is ¥630, and a sampler of all three types is ¥980. An English menu is available.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Daiba 1-6-1, Decks Tokyo Beach Seaside Mall 4F. Open 11am-9pm daily.
Gompachi (Daiba - Izakaya). 3599-4807
Inside Glien Passage, the theme-park-extravaganza restaurant complex in Aquacity, Gompachi offers a straight-ahead robatayaki menu - yakitori, grilled fish, assorted side dishes and a handful of soba variations to round things out.
no smokinglatedecorSunmapMinato-ku, Daiba 1-7-1, Mediage 4F (Aquacity Odaiba). Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Daiba - Italian). 3599-4801
Late-night pastas and Italian wines.
no smokinglateSunmapMinato-ku, Daiba 1-7-1, Mediage 4F (Aquacity Odaiba). Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Daiba - World cuisine). 3599-4805
Assorted southeast Asian dishes and a large bar.
no smokinglateSunmapMinato-ku, Daiba 1-7-1, Mediage 4F (Aquacity Odaiba). Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Zest (Daiba - Tex-Mex). 3599-4803
Dependable late-night Tex-Mex food and fun decor.
no smokinglatedecorSunmapMinato-ku, Daiba 1-7-1, Mediage 4F (Aquacity Odaiba). Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Sizzler (Daiba - American). 3599-4534
The all-you-can-eat salad bar is surprisingly varied, and still one of the better ones in town.
no smokingSunmapMinato-ku, Daiba 1-7-1, Aqua City 5F. Open 11:30am-10pm daily.
Kushiya Monogatari (Aomi - Kushiage). 3527-6446
This popular Osaka-based shop lets you cook your own kushiage skewers in a deep-fryer right at your table. It's all you can eat, including various side dishes, and a big variety of skewered tidbits. The dessert section features a chocolate fountain. Y2500 per person, with a 90-minute limit, or Y1500 at lunchtime (served until 3:30pm).
no smokingSunmapKoto-ku, Aomi 1-1-10, DiverCity Tokyo Plaza 6F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Torimikura (Aomi - Yakitori). 6457-2636
Charcoal-grilled heirloom-breed chicken and game birds are the specialty here, along with oyako-donburi and chicken-based ramen. There's also a good selection of sake and shochu to wash it down. Lunch is served until 4pm.
no smokingSunmapKoto-ku, Aomi 1-1-10, DiverCity Tokyo Plaza 6F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
!Pizzeria Ciro (Higashi-Nakano - Italian). 6426-0309
The pizza makers here trained in Naples, and they use a wood-burning pizza oven. Some thirty varieties of fantastic thin-crusted pizzas are ready to eat in or take out.
no smokingSunmapNakano-ku, Higashi-Nakano 3-8-3. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Pole Pole Za Space Cafe (Higashi-Nakano - Cafe). 3227-1405
The very artsy cafe includes a gallery space in back where you can catch the latest exhibit while enjoying coffee or cocktails; there's also window seating up front, a few outdoor tables, and a movie theater in the basement. Drinks include Chinese teas, hot cocktails (rum and apple, coffee and cointreau), and eight Belgian beers by the bottle. The food menu is limited to curry rice and a smattering of small deli items.
no smokingSunmapNakano-ku, Higashi-Nakano 4-4-1. Open 11:30am-11pm (-6pm Sun). Closed Mondays.
Neko no Kanzume (Nakano - Cat cafe). 070-6522-2225
A relatively small neighborhood establishment, "Can of Cats" is noteworthy for their very playful cats, and human staff who go out of their way to keep them entertained with a full complement of cat toys and a lot of energy. Unlike most cafes, you're allowed to pick up and hold the animals here in addition to petting them - the staff will tell you which ones enjoy it and which are off-limits.
no smokingSunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 5-68-9, AK Bldg 3F. Open noon-8pm (Sat, Sun 11am-8). Closed Wed, 1st and 3rd Thu.
!Saikoro (Nakano - Ramen). 6304-8902
The north side of Nakano is famed for Nakano Broadway, a center of otaku culture and interesting traditional restaurants. But on the often ignored south side, there is a wonderful ramen shop worth a visit. Saikoro is part of the Jiraigen Syndicate, a noodle group that makes simple, honest Tokyo ramen in cool, stylish shops. Look for the shop with a DJ booth and hanging saikoro (dice) in the window. [Show more]
no smokinglateSunmapNakano-ku, Nakano 2-28-8. Open 11am-1:30am (LO; Sun -11pm) daily.
!Craft Beer Market Koenji (Koenji - Beer bar). 5356-7982
Known for their good food, lively atmosphere and reasonably priced craft brews, the Craft Beer Market chain has been growing quickly, and this fifth branch is their first foray into a residential neighborhood rather than an after-work business district. Similar to the downtown branches, CBM Koenji pours a well-chosen lineup of mostly Japanese craft brews from its thirty taps, along with a few ordinary lagers and wine by the glass for those who don't yet fully enjoy the pleasures of craft beer.
no smokingSunmapSuginami-ku, Koenji-Kita 2-22-6. Open 5-11:30pm daily.
Honmura An (Ogikubo - Soba). 3390-0325
First-class soba -- they also had a very popular branch in New York City's Soho neighborhood.
no smokingSunmapSuginami-ku, Kami-Ogi 2-7-11. Open 11am-8:30pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
!Mu-hung (Nishi-Ogikubo - Singaporean). 3394-9191
A comfortable smoke-free cafe that serves good Singapore-style chicken rice, although unfortunately they only serve it with fragrant jasmine rice on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month; you get regular rice the rest of the time. Other dishes include very good Malaysian curries with excellent fried roti (bread), and other Malaysian/Singaporean specialties.
no smokingSunmapSuginami-ku, Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-21-2. Open 11am-9:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Papapapa Pine (Nishi-Ogikubo - Ramen). 3247-2181
At first, pineapple ramen sounds strange, maybe even downright awful. But imagine some other things that have been matched with pineapples. Pineapple and a sweet terriyaki sauce make a great burger topping. Pineapple glaze is amazing on ham and pork chops. And thousands of Hawaiian-style pizzas are ordered every day. Does it work with ramen? You bet. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapSuginami-ku, Nishiogi-Minami 3-12-1. Open 11am-11pm (Sun -8pm) daily.
Rose Bakery (Kichijoji - Cafe). 0422-22-1506
Good breads, cakes and vegetable salads at this cute, plant-filled bakery-cafe inside the Atre shopping mall. Lunch options include a "plate of vegetables" and vegetable tarts with salad as well as burgers. They also have branches in London and Paris. Open from 9am on weekends.
no smokingSunmapMusashino-shi, Kichijoji Minamicho 1-1-24, Atre Kichijoji 1F. Open 8am-10pm daily.
!Yona Yona Beer Works (Kichijoji - Beer bar). 0422-28-4740
This fourth branch of the popular Yona Yona beer bar, its first venue outside central Tokyo, offers the same lineup of a dozen or so beers from Nagano brewery Yo-Ho, including seasonal specials. The stylishly appointed, massive dining room is far flashier than pretty much anything else we've seen in Kichijoji, and it makes a lively and fun setting when the place is full. [Show more]
no smokingdecorSunmapMusashino-shi, Kichijoji Honmachi 1-8-10, Kichijoji Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Craft and Romance (Kichijoji - Beer bar). 0422-24-6170
If you're looking for a craft-beer tasting flight after the other Kichijoji craft-beer bars have closed, this seventh-floor spot is worth knowing about. While we may have been disappointed by the food, the service and the seating arrangements, we did enjoy the background music (mostly blues), and the terrace area looks like a pleasant place to sit when weather permits. [Show more]
no smokinglateSunmapMusashino-shi, Kichijoji Minamicho 1-5-3, Kichijoji Piatto 7F. Open 5pm-1am daily.
!Muteppo (Ekoda - Ramen). 5380-6886
Thick tonkotsu ramen is nothing new. You'll find many shops all over the country serving bowls of it. But if you want the thickest, most intense bowl there is, Muteppo is the place to go. The soup is 100% pork bones, boiled for many, many hours. Just watching them stir the giant vats of soup is reason enough to come to this shop. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapNakano-ku, Egota 4-5-1. Open 11am-3, 6-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Lodi (Nakano-Sakaue - Bar). 050-1141-6227
Located above Nakano-Sakaue subway station, Lodi serves both domestic microbrew beers (with a rotating selection of five on tap), and American wines (with six by the glass). At lunchtime (weekdays only) they serve gourmet coffee.
no smokingmapNakano-ku, Chuo 1-38-1. Open 11:45am-2:30, 6pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Hangover (Nakano-Sakaue - Beer bar). 5389-3049
"Craft beer, craft food" is the raison d'etre of this ambitious beer bar, and they do an excellent job on both counts. There's a well-chosen selection of craft beers from the US and Japan on tap, and they also stock a good number of bottles from breweries like Lagunitas, Coronado and Southern Tier.
no smokinglateSunmapNakano-ku, Chuo 1-51-4. Open 5pm-5am (Sun -12). Closed Mondays.
Minatoya (Sasazuka - Takoyaki). 6383-3120
This charming neighborhood shop serves takoyaki, akashiyaki, octopus-filled okonomiyaki pancakes, and kakigori shaved-ice desserts. The takoyaki is a fairly orthodox version, studded with big, tasty chunks of octopus in a gooey filling. It's served on its own or in a snack called takosen, which is two takoyaki balls in a crunchy shrimp-cracker sandwich. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Sasazuka 2-41-20. Open 11am-9pm. Closed Wednesdays.
!Hototogisu (Hatagaya - Ramen). 3373-4508
Hototogisu is a little hard to find. It's located in a suburb a few stations west of Shinjuku, down a local shopping street, and in a nondescript alleyway. They usually have a line, which is the only indication of anything existing there. But therein lies the beauty of ramen. Hototogisu could make a killing with a bigger shop in a busier part of town, but they choose to stay, despite the countless awards and accolades. [Show more]
no smokingmapShibuya-ku, Hatagaya 2-47-12. Open 11:30am-3, 6:30-10pm. Closed Thu; Fri; Sun eve.
Camelback (Yoyogi-Koen - Sandwiches/ deli). 6407-0069
Modern, Japanese-inspired sandwiches prepared by a former sushi chef are served at this tiny take-out counter. Sushi-style tamagoyaki omelettes, steamed monkfish liver and home-cured lamb bacon are a few of his creations. You can also get espresso, for here or to go.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Kamiyamacho 42-2. Open 9am-7pm. Closed Mondays.
Hashiya (Yoyogi-Koen - Yoshoku). 3466-1576
This Japanese-spaghetti pioneer has been offering their unique take on pasta since the 1950s, with over sixty varieties on the menu. One of the more popular options features sea urchin, squid and cod roe, served in a sweet, buttery sauce flavored with soy sauce and topped with strips of nori seaweed. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Tomigaya 1-3-10. Open 11:30am-9pm (LO). Closed Thursdays.
Dog Heart (Yoyogi-Koen - Animal cafe). 3469-4115
A pack of happy, tail-wagging pups greeted us in boisterous fashion upon our arrival at Dog Heart, letting us know that we'd be in for a lively afternoon at one of Tokyo's more gregarious animal cafes. Unlike the often reserved residents of your typical cat cafe, the sixteen dogs here are just thrilled to have human visitors and they aren't shy about letting you know it.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Tomigaya 1-45-2, Y's Park Bldg 2F. Open 11am-7pm daily.
Gatemo Tabum (Yoyogi-Uehara - Bhutanese). 3466-9590
A tiny cafe with a limited menu of four Bhutanese stews with rice, including a fiery version of ema datshi, a cheese and chili stew that's Bhutan's national dish. The other stews (pork and daikon, chicken, potato-cheese) are milder, and you can opt for a two-stew combo plate for Y900. There are also a few salads, fried tofu, and a tasty "Indian snack mix" with chopped vegetables and Masala spice. The drinks menu offers Edelpils beer on tap, German and Chilean wines, and Bhutanese rum, whisky, and teas. Classical music plays in the background, and the cafe is entirely non-smoking, just like Bhutan itself.
no smokingSunmapShibuya-ku, Uehara 1-22-5. Open noon-2, 6-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Enrique Maruesco (Higashi-Kitazawa - Middle Eastern). 3467-1106
Moroccan cuisine.
no smokingmapSetagaya-ku, Kitazawa 3-1-15, Coop Inage. Open 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!Senrigan (Higashi-Kitazawa - Ramen). 3481-5773
There is a ramen shop in Japan called Jiro (not to be confused with the famous sushi shop of a similar name). Jiro features thick, wheaty noodles in a mega-porky soup. Add to that copious amounts of garlic, top with a mountain of bean sprouts, drizzle the whole thing with pork back fat, and you have the base of a bowl of Jiro ramen. There are other factors, but essentially this is a bowl that is tough to finish, and you'll smell like it for the next twelve hours. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapMeguro-ku, Komaba 4-6-8. Open 11am-2:30, 5-9:45pm daily.
La Boheme (Ikejiri-Ohashi - Italian). 5486-3700
Inexpensive, competently prepared pastas and other dishes that are very popular with a young, local crowd.
no smokinglateSunmapSetagaya-ku, Ikejiri 1-9-11. Open 11:30am-1:30am (LO) daily.
!Giang's (Futago-tamagawa - Vietnamese). 3700-2475
A gem of a restaurant, run by a Vietnamese family, with authentic food and reasonable prices. There's also a good stock of Vietnamese beer and French wines.
no smokingSunmapSetagaya-ku, Tamagawa 3-5-7, Kurokawa Bldg. 3F. Open 5-10:30pm. Closed Mondays.
Mikkeller Tokyo Spring Popup (Naka-Meguro - Beer bar). unlisted
Eight taps of Mikkeller and guest beers are yours to enjoy at this temporary bar located in an old traditional-style house, open until the end of June 2016. It's mostly standing, and there's no food, although you can bring your own. Directions on the website say "through Chez Chao, in the back." Open until 1am Fridays and Saturdays, and from noon on Saturdays and Sundays.
no smokingSunmapMeguro-ku, Kami-Meguro 1-11-1. Open 3pm-midnight daily.
N_1155 (Naka-Meguro - Mediterranean). 3760-1001
Fresh organic produce is the pride of this casual, stylish dining bar. The simple menu complements the nice selection of organic and biodynamic wines. Bruschetta, baby shrimp and tomatoes sauteed in garlic oil, and other tapas-style dishes are available on the first floor, while more substantial fare such as Australian lamb and veal can be ordered upstairs, with full-course dinners from Y2800. The smoke-free environment is a plus.
no smokingSunmapMeguro-ku, Kami-Meguro 1-1-55. Open noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Nakameguro Taproom (Naka-Meguro - Brewpub). 5768-3025
While its office-building setting and generic wood-paneled-den decor aren't especially inviting, this branch of the Taproom attracts an audience of foreign and Japanese beer lovers with its excellent microbrews. There are usually around twenty varieties on tap from parent company's Baird Brewery in Shizuoka, along with two or three guest beers from US breweries. The food menu features "New Haven-style pizzas" and salads. Open from noon on weekends.
no smokingSunmapMeguro-ku, Kami-Meguro 2-1-3, Naka-Meguro GT Plaza C-Tower 2F. Open 5pm-midnight daily.
Ra.a.g.f (Jiyugaoka - Rabbit cafe). 3725-2240
The larger of the two branches of this popular rabbit cafe, Ra.a.g.f Jiyugaoka has around two dozen rabbits of various breeds for visitors to play with and feed. Seating is on cushions on the floor, at tiny tables in two separate play areas. Usually two to four rabbits are running around loose at any given time, and you can choose the rabbits you want to play with, although some might be "on a break" and therefore not available.
no smokingSunmapMeguro-ku, Jiyugaoka 1-26-3, 5F. Open noon-7:30pm (Sat, Sun 11am-8pm). Closed Thursdays.
Monsoon Cafe (Jiyugaoka - World cuisine). 5726-1366
An interesting assortment of Asian dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and China are served all day and night (until 5am) at this branch of the casual "ethnic-style" izakaya chain.
no smokinglateSunmapMeguro-ku, Jiyugaoka 1-26-4, Stella Jiyugaoka B1F. (3 min. from Jiyugaoka station) Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
!A Ta Gueule Orient Express (Kiba - French). 5809-9799
Located a bit off the beaten track, this intimate 28-seat restaurant is a serious gourmet destination, serving high-level cuisine at down-to-earth prices. Owner-chef George Sumura is a veteran of the Raffles Hotel in Singapore and a two-star restaurant in Brussels, and his menu is especially strong in game dishes.
no smokingSunmapKoto-ku, Kiba 3-19-8. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Monsoon Cafe (Minami-Funabashi - Misc. Southeast Asian). 047-421-7311
This ethnic-style izakaya chain serves Asian-inspired dishes from Thailand, China, Vietnam and Indonesia.
no smokingSunmapFunabashi, Chiba, Hamacho 2-1-1, Minami-kan 3F 4920. Open 11:30am-2:30, 2:30-11pm (LO) daily.
Katsukura (Kawasaki - Tonkatsu). 044-874-8413
Besides the usual tonkatsu, Katsukura offers variations like deep-fried shrimp and scallops, yuba (tofu skin) croquettes), and nice side dishes like chawanmushi, tofu salad and kakuni stewed pork. The original shop is in Kyoto. Budget around Y1600 for food.
no smokingSunmapSaiwai-ku, Kawasaki, Horikawacho 72-1, Lazona Kawasaki Plaza 4F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Oyama (Kawasaki - Ramen). 044-230-1139
This well-regarded shop in the Ramen Symphony complex is known for their shrimp ramen.
no smokingSunmapKawasaki-ku, Kawasaki, Ekimae Honcho 26-1, Kawasaki BE B1F Ramen Symphony. Open 11am-10:30pm daily.
Il Pinolo Levita (Yokohama Sta. - Italian). 045-444-0630
The prix-fixe menus here (Y4000, Y5800) let you mix and match from a big list of pastas, starters and main dishes while you enjoy the impressive nighttime view. Set lunches are Y2500 to Y7000.
no smokingSunmapNishi-ku, Yokohama, Takashima 2-18-1, Yokohama Sogo 10F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Dog Dept + Cafe (Yokohama Minato-mirai - Cafe). 045-222-5199
Yet another cafe where you can bring your pet; this one also carries a full line of canine fashion and grooming items. The dog menu includes items like pate, pork and beans, and bean risotto.
no smokingSunmapNishi-ku, Yokohama, Minato-mirai 2-2-1, Landmark Plaza 1F. Open 11am-8pm daily.
Kissho (Yokohama Minato-mirai - Shabu-shabu). 045-222-5522
Shabu-shabu and kaiseki (from Y8000 at night).
no smokingSunmapNishi-ku, Yokohama, Minato-mirai 2-2-1, Landmark Plaza 5F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Antenna America (Yokohama Kannai - Beer bar). 045-315-5228
An ever-changing selection of American craft beers - all from top-class breweries like Southern Tier, Coronado and Anderson Valley - is on tap at this tasting room run by beer importing company Nagano Trading. They also carry more than a hundred bottled beers, and they're all sold at retail prices.
no smokingSunmapNaka-ku, Yokohama, Yoshidamachi 5-4, #6 Yoshida Bldg, 5F. Open 3-11pm daily.
Full Monty (Yokohama Kannai - British pub). 045-334-8787
Serving seventeen different ciders, this rather authentic British pub must have the best selection in town, if not in all of Japan. They also serve beer of course - on a recent visit the pub's eight taps included such varied fare as Caldera Vanilla Wheat and Rogue Yellow Snow IPA (both from Oregon); Brimmer Porter (from Kawasaki); Greene King Abbot Ale and Fuller's London Pride, with pints averaging Y1000.
no smokingSunmapNaka-ku, Yokohama, Fukutomicho Nishi-dori 41. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Mondays.
!Sparta (Yokohama Kannai - Greek). 045-253-1645
This Greek landmark has been serving hearty, home-style food since 1953 (although they moved to a new location in 2010). The bright, spacious dining area includes lots of counter seating as well as tables.
no smokingSunmapNaka-ku, Yokohama, Yoshidamachi 3-7. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
Yokohama Subtropical Teahouse (Yokohama Kannai - Animal cafe). 045-263-4015
Lizards, tortoises, snakes and other reptiles - plus the odd amphibian - are the main attraction at this charming animal cafe. There's no cover charge per se, but you're expected to order a beverage or food. We tried the shop's "meat cakes," which turned out to be scones filled with Chinese-style BBQ pork (like what you'd get in a pork bun), and served with whipped cream.
no smokingSunmapNishi-ku, Yokohama, Chojamachi 8-133, 2F. Open 11am-8pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays, Wednesdays.
Bashamichi Taproom (Yokohama Bashamichi - American). 045-264-4961
Authentic American-style barbecue is the ambitious specialty at Bashamichi Taproom, along with a great selection of craft beers. The twenty or so taps mostly dispense beers from the excellent Baird Brewery in Numazu, with a couple of guest taps devoted to well-chosen American craft brews. [Show more]
no smokingSunmapNaka-ku, Yokohama, Sumiyoshicho 5-63-1. Open 5pm-midnight daily.
Thrash Zone Meatballs (Yokohama Nihon-Odori - Beer bar). unlisted
Thrash Zone is one of Japan's best craft-beer brewers, specializing in strong, hoppy IPAs and other "extreme beers." This second branch of the Thrash Zone bar (open since mid-April 2016) serves a line-up of their own creations, plus an equal number of demonstrative US beers from brewers like Bear Republic and Sierra Nevada. They also plan to serve a menu of "extreme meatballs" in the near future, an intriguing concept that we'll be looking forward to.
no smokingSunmapNaka-ku, Yokohama, Tokiwacho 2-15. Open 4-11:30pm (Sat, Sun noon-11:30) daily.
Lien Sandwiches (Yokohama Nihon-Odori - Sandwiches/ deli). 045-222-7055
Formerly known as Lina's, this pleasant cafe serves good French-inspired, made-to-order sandwiches, including vegetable options. Lunch specials are served until 2pm.
no smokingSunmapNaka-ku, Yokohama, Bentendori 1-1, Tokyo Denryoku Bldg 1F. Open 10am-6:30pm (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Yokohama Yamashitacho - Italian). 045-227-7123
Inexpensive pastas and Italian wines by the glass, with convenient late-night hours.
no smokingSunmapNaka-ku, Yokohama, Yamashitacho 61-1, Yamashita Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Slow Cafe (Yokohama Motomachi - Cafe). 045-651-5381
A pleasant place to grab a coffee or a late lunch or evening snack if you're exploring the Motomachi neighborhood - options include a deli platter and a nice bean-tomato curry with brown rice. There's some outdoor seating, and an inexpensive drinks menu.
no smokingSunmapNaka-ku, Yokohama, Motomachi 1-50, Motomachi Paseo 1F. Open 11am-9pm (LO; Mon noon-5pm) daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Tama Plaza - World cuisine). 045-905-5155
Eclectic Asian cuisine, a lively atmosphere and late-night hours, from the Global Dining Group (Zest, La Boheme).
no smokinglateSunmapAoba-ku, Yokohama, Utsukushigaoka 5-2-15. Open 11am-3am (LO) daily.