It's grimy, divey, smoky and cramped, but this, of course, is all part of the charm. The other charming bit is the ever-smiling and joking owner who will bang a drum when you leave, laugh maniacally and wish you a good night. This after you've spent the evening sidled up to the bar eating skewer after skewer and knocking back beers, available in sizes that range from normal to comically huge.
It's your standard yakitori fare but it's addictively good: chicken and leek, chunks of pork, all the guts you can handle and some particularly tasty chicken meatballs basted with a sweet soy sauce. If you want to pretend to feel healthy, order the enoki mushrooms or asparagus, but keep in mind they'll both be wrapped in little blankets of bacon.
To bulk up your meal, order a salty miso-based soup featuring chunks of soft tofu, pork and fresh scallions, served from a massive, blackened cauldron. This is the perfect place to eat cheap and feel like a local.
The menu is all Japanese but the owner can speak a bit of English.