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But don't think Csarda is the only one suitable for this sort
of beer-critic abuse. The fact is, many of the beers on offer
at last November's Ji-Beer Matsuri could be classified into
this category. Just this week I experienced another
particularly bad example: the Daiba Beers made by the Sunset
Beach Brewing Company out at Odaiba on Tokyo Bay.
Sunset Beach Brewing Company has a restaurant serving buffet
style meals with their beer, which are also available at the
Uokyu Japanese restaurant on the first floor of the same
building. I tried all three being offered that day. The
"Kolsch" was a murky yellow beer served ice cold with a wedge
of lemon which had apparently been squeezed into the beer
before it was lodged on the edge of the glass. I'd never heard
of Kolsch (a light ale from Cologne, Germany) served with a
lemon before, but after a taste I could see the logic: the
beer was definitely "off" and exhibited an array of sulfurous
aromas, which were to some extent covered up by the sharp,
deodorizing properties of the lemon. If one leaves the lemon
on the rim of the glass (like I didn't) and drinks the beer
while it is still ice cold, these flavors and smells are much
less noticeable.
Next came the "Alt," which bore little resemblance to the
famous Altbiers of Dusseldorf, although the color was broadly
similar. This one was also ice cold, and once allowed to warm
slightly, exhibited a decidedly sour aroma and taste.
The third variety was the "Special," which was anything but.
Nobody could tell me even roughly what style of beer this was
supposed to be, but it didn't matter anyway because it really
didn't taste like anything anyway. It had fewer "off" flavors,
but maybe it was because it wasn't as old, and hadn't had time
to develop them in the serving tanks.
To sum up, I would have to say that Japan's Big Four brewers
couldn't be more delighted with the way these beers taste, and
may just be hoping that all this "ji-biiru" nonsense will blow
over in a year or two. After all, it's easier and more
profitable to crank out huge quantities of a bland product,
rather than have to go to the trouble of brewing something
which requires more expensive ingredients and a more time-
consuming process.
Interestingly enough, when the Big Four do decide to produce a
non-standard "craft-type" product, it may not always be
particularly interesting, but it certainly will not have the
kind of technical flaws common to Csarda, Sunset Beach, and
god knows who's next.
In closing, I really regret having to say bad things about
these breweries. I would really rather give you a glowing
report on where you can drink super-fresh and truly tasty
beer. Unfortunately, these weren't, so I thought I'd warn you.
Good Japanese Craft Beer at Ginga Kogen
by Bryan Harrell
If the previous article made you give up hope, don't. Just go
have decent craft beer from Iwate at the Ginga Kogen Beer
Restaurant in Akasaka, above Akasaka Moti in the same
building, phone 3224-9686. The fact that Ginga employs not one
but two brewmasters from Germany may have something to do with
their success.
Also take heart in the fact that Ginga Kogen has two other
locations which I haven't visited, but which serve the same
three Iwate-brewed beers offered in Akasaka:
* Roppongi 3-8-15, phone 3405-8819
* Ginza 8-9-11, phone 3575-0850
No Cigar, But Stay Tuned...
by Bryan Harrell
Japon-tei in Kojimachi may be the only pub in Japan to offer
its own brand of craft beer. Recommended by a reader, this pub
actually specializes in jizake, and features a wide array of
really great brands. The izakaya-style Japanese food is
another big plus, everything my friend and I had there on a
recent visit was quite delicious. Japon-tei's "Kojimachi 3-
chome Beer" is said to be an English style bitter ale, and is
made by an outside brewery which the master Katoh-san wishes
to keep a secret.
So was it a good craft beer? Close, but no cigar. For one
thing, it was served in a very un-English style in a tall
ceramic cup. I couldn't see it. For another, it was served at
virtually freezing temperature, even colder than the beer at
Sunset Beach, so I couldn't even smell it, and the only taste
was a cold foamy sensation.
But after requesting a clear glass, and pouring the beer into
it and waiting a good twenty minutes, the beer finally came
into focus. It was a beautiful pale amber color, quite clean
looking with a nice head, and had a mild yet unremarkable
flavor. I think the brewer was aiming at something like Bass
Pale Ale, but was a fair measure short of the mark. The
lingering tangy sweetness at the end gave me the impression
that it was brewed not from malt grain, but from malt extract,
but I can't be sure.
While the beer was certainly a preferable alternative to mass-
produced Japanese beer, Kojimachi 3-chome Beer could use to be
a bit more flavorful and distinctive. Perhaps serving it at
about 10-12 degrees C in an attractive glass would be a good
start.
Katoh-san told me that he's now in the process of developing a
cherry beer, which he hopes to have on sale sometime in March.
What with all the great sake and food Japon-tei's got, one
can't help but be impressed by Katoh-san's taste. I think that
the beer here could very well improve as time goes on.
I'll be returning when the cherry beer is ready.
Japon-tei is just at the #3 entrance of Kojimachi station on
the Yurakucho line. Open Mon-Fri only. Address: Chiyoda-ku,
Kojimachi 3-4; phone 3263-3642.
SPECIAL REPORT: The Cellar Japan
by Rob Waring
The Cellar Japan in Kobe is run by Junko Saito and her husband
Hiroshi in a small building just off one of Kobe's main
intersections about a 10 minute walk from JR Kobe. They have
been operating only a short time and as a result of the Kobe
'quake needed to find new site which has been newly built for
them. I believe they are associated with The Cellar in Seattle
USA.
Junko and Hiroshi Saito run the Beer Club of Japan (officially
recognized by the American Homebrewer's Association) from this
side street site. Membership costs 600 yen to join, 2400 yen
per year, and benefits include a discount on homebrew
supplies, a membership pin and issues of their newsletter
(Japanese only) among other things. They hold regular
meetings.
My first reaction upon seeing it was that it was a small
warehouse, and I was pleasantly surprised by the friendliness
of the owners who thrust a beer upon me almost as I walked in
the door. They were extremely helpful and full of advice for
beginners. They stock about 10-12 different extracts (that I
could see), kickers and various types of hops and beer kits
and other necessities. In addition to malt extract, they also
carry four kinds of malted grain in 1 lb. vacuum packs for
550-600 yen each. By the time you read this, they should also
be selling malt in about 20kg bags for a more reasonable
price, between 350 to 500 yen per kg. They don't have the
variety that you would expect in a normal homebrew store back
home, but then who in Japan does?
While I was there, there was a steady flow of customers all of
whom the owners knew by name and this gave me the impression
that their business was small but very personal. They do have
a few non-Japanese customers I was told. The owners are both
fluent in English so those who are worried about their
Japanese language ability don't need to be.
They have a pricelist (in English too!!) available upon
request. The prices are about average for Japan I would
imagine. A starter beer tool kit would set you back 18,500
yen. Malt extracts range from 2500-3500 yen for 1.5 - 1.8kg
cans, and the more unusual ones a bit more. Hop pellets will
set you back 500 yen per 30 gram pack. Most essentials are
available on request. They will even order in from overseas if
you have specific request. They don't have any books about
homebrewing in English, but offer two in Japanese.
Their business has grown by mouth to mouth rather from
advertising. They sell mostly mail order or door to door. I
placed a 40,000 yen mail (takyubin) order which they sent on
trust that I would pay by postal furikae (transfer) upon
receipt.
They also supply Tokyu Hands, which don't allow them to put
brewing instructions or booklets explaining what to do near
the kits, so beginners buying a kit at Tokyu Hands won't have
a clue what to do.
Therefore you are better off visiting or dealing with the
Cellar Japan and get the service that comes with it. All in
all I was very pleased with their operation and if anyone in
the Kansai area is interested in homebrew please drop in. I
hope you can pay them a visit. I'm glad I did.
Contact them to request their new catalog, which is about to
be printed.
The Cellar Japan. (and The Beer Club of Japan Inc.)
2-1-19 Shichinomiya, Kobe 652.
Phone: 078 651 1439 (English OK)
Fax: 078 651 1440
Email: bcjkobe@osk.threewebnet.or.jp (English OK)
Homepage: http://www.threeweb.ad.jp/~bcjkobe/
HOW TO GET THERE:
You can find them by taking a train to JR Kobe (not
Sannomiya). Walk out of the South East exit of the station and
you will see a huge overhead expressway. (If you don't see it
- you're at the other exit.) Go to your right and under the
expressway to the other side. Continue to walk along the other
side of the expressway away from the station to the South
(right). You will then be following a major road which is to
the left of the overhead expressway (2 parallel roads). As you
walk, the expressway will be on your right. After 8-10 minutes
you will come to a very large intersection where the
expressway curves to the right. The road you want goes
straight. Cross over the second overhead crossing / walkway
(you will see a small temple at the other side as you are
walking over the walkway) and continue to walk away from the
expressway. Then take the first (or was it second - anyway the
one BEFORE the Midori bank) side road on the right (only 100
metres or so from the walkway) and you will find the Cellar
Japan just 10 metres down this road on the left. You will see
their small sign in Katakana. It looks like a small warehouse.
Call if you get lost. They are open most days, but call to
check before you go.
Roppongi Sankt Gallen Brewery on the Block?
by Bryan Harrell
The tiny Sankt Gallen Brewery and Chinese restaurant in
Roppongi, founded and owned by Eiko Shoji, is rumored to be
for sale, with an asking price of 12 million yen.
Eiko Shoji closed their Cafe Pacifica brewpub in San Francisco
at the end of December, and apparently has sold the seven-
barrel brewing system to a group in Japan. No word yet on what
the new owners will do with it.
Meanwhile, Eiko Shoji has just bought a 20-barrel brewery from
DME in Canada to be set up as a microbrewery in Atsugi, near
the company's headquarters. Initial production is estimated to
be about 15,000 barrels (about 1.75 million liters) a year.
More Rumors: "Hoegaarden Cafe?"
The owners of the Brussels chain of Belgian beer pubs are said
to be teaming up with Belgian beer importer Konishi Shuzo to
open up a 'Hoegaarden Cafe' somewhere between "two of Tokyo's
popular nightlife districts." It's too early to tell, but my
guess is that it will be a temporary installation to test
market Hoegaarden ales (White, Grand Cru, Forbidden Fruit) to
Tokyo's young and trendy.
Michael Jackson's Japan Tour
The world's most famous beer writer, Michael Jackson, will
again visit Japan in early March to give a series of lectures.
His schedule is:
March 3: Lecture on craft beer at the headquarters of Konishi
Shuzo in Itami, Hyogo Prefecture
March 4: Lecture on Belgian beers at the Grand'Place micro-
brewery in Nagoya
March 5: Lecture on craft beer at the Arai micro-brewery in
Nagano
March 6: Lecture on Belgian beers at the Belgian Embassy in
Tokyo
No details yet on costs and availability of reservations, but
I've heard the entrance fee is about 10,000 yen. Michael
Jackson will give his presentations in English, with a
Japanese interpreter present. I might attend the Tokyo
lecture, and will get more details later; please contact me if
you're interested. -- Bryan Harrell
BREWS IN THE NEWS
Grab some Belgian Ale at the 7-11? How Convenience!
That's right! Who would have guessed that Hoegaarden White and
Forbidden Fruit would be on the reefer shelves at your local
7-11, right alongside crocks of St. Sebastiaan Dark and Grand
Cru? Sure the prices aren't discount, but it makes such a
great alternative to picking up a bunch of ordinary beer when
you're on your way to a someone's party in an unfamiliar
neighborhood.
Scoring Some REDS in the 'Hood
Asahi has just released REDS, Asahi's Original Red Beer.
Although Cheech and Chong have yet to be retained for a series
of commercials, my sources at the U.S. Embassy tell me that
the CIA is already performing the routine background check on
the beer.
But seriously, folks, REDS is what appears to be an ordinary
lager spiced up with small amounts of amber malt and crystal
malt to give it an attractive reddish bronze color. It's not
really very distinctive (surprise!) but it does taste a little
better than A-B's Red Wolf now hitting the shelves in your
local saka-ya. Better yet, the fact that the two specialty
malts are used is clearly printed on the can, representing a
rare attempt at actually educating the beer-drinking public,
rather than the usual practice of confusing them with vague
statements. Anyway, let's see how long this one lasts, or if
Suntory will come out with a copy product called RED'S.
Reeden Valentine's Beer from Fukuyama
Nadja Becker, head brewer of Reeden Beers in Fukuyama,
Hiroshima prefecture, wrote to tell that she's brewed a
special Valentine's Beer which will be sold at the Sogo
Department Store (Yurakucho and Funabashi) through February
14th. She says it's a top-fermented beer with a "sweet and
palateful flavor and a chocolate color." Other Reeden Beers
including Pilsner, Weizen, and Alt are also planned to be
available. Nadja also says she's working on a cherry flavored
beer for hanami season, and that initial taste tests are very
favorable. Reeden Beer is made by the Fukuyama Brewery, phone
0849-20-3232.
Japanese Craft Beer On Sale in Harajuku
A special selection of Japanese craft beers are being sold
until the end of March at the Furusato Plaza in Harajuku. This
multi-level event space, marked by the classic green-and-cream
"bonnet bus" parked outside, features products from
prefectures throughout Japan, along with travel information.
The beer is being sold in the basement arcade, which is lined
with shops selling everything from tsukemono to hand-made
sausage from the countryside.
A quick glance at the prices of the Japanese craft beer,
however, is certain to send you scampering in search of the
phone number for MicroBeers International (0766-76-2881),
which offers much better beer for much lower prices. Examples
at Furusato Plaza include 1-liter bottles of Kai Beer
(Yamanashi) or Kitashinchi Beer (Osaka) for 2,000 yen, and 500
ml bottles of Satsuma-imo Lager from Koedo Brewery (Saitama)
for 750 yen. Even though the WAOH Hakugin (weizen), Kohaku
(amber ale), and Yamabuki (pale ale) beers are really quite
good, they're really not worth 630 yen for a small 330 ml
bottle. Perhaps the best values are the decent and reliable
Pilsner and Dunkel German-style beers from Doppo Beer in
Okayama, priced at 360 yen for a 330 ml bottle.
Anyway, they're there for the seeing at Furusato Plaza, in
Harajuku on Meiji Dori between La Foret and the entrance to
Takeshita-dori. Free samples of sake and kiwi wine are offered
in the basement arcade up to 7 p.m., so it's certainly worth a
visit if you're in the neighborhood. Phone 5413-2310.
(Thanks to Peter Morgan for the tip.)
JCBA Offers Beer Evaluation Program Feb 14 - 16
The Japan Craft Beer Association, in conjunction with the
Siebel Institute of Chicago, will be holding a "Master
Evaluator" program from Friday, February 14 through Sunday the
16th. The seminar will be held in Otemachi, Tokyo at the Nogyo
Kaikan, and the basic cost is 80,000 yen. (The same course at
Seibel in Chicago costs $790.) Attendance is limited to "Beer
Taster" member of the JCBA; joining fee is 20,000 yen, with
yearly dues of 6,000 yen. For more details, contact the JCBA
at 0797-31-6911, fax 0797-23-6701.
FROM THE MAIL BAG...
Tom Herdman writes:
I broke into the last case of Tall Ship IPA, in storage since
last year's shipment. We enjoyed it with some friends over
Christmas dinner. Everyone seemed to agree that it still
tasted great. As a special Christmas present, my brother sent
me some of his Three Masts to the Wind, Barley Wine (14.5%).
Now that'll put hair on yer chest, matey! I took a sample of
the yeast from the IPA, and since I do not make beer at home I
decided to make some bread. The yeast was still genki, so I
have made Tall Ship pizza dough, among others.
One other bit of news. Hara Store in Azabu Juban has about a
dozen or so American micro products priced at 350 yen each and
imported by Koami. Address: 2-4-1 Azabu Juban, phone 3451-
5211.
Peter Evans writes:
I recommend the bottled "Guinness Foreign Extra Stout", which
is to draught Guinness available in Britain (I can't speak for
Ireland) what Duvel is to Anheuser-"Budweiser". The "Foreign
Extra Stout" is brewed in Ireland and bottled in England; it's
imported by YK Katsumi Shoukai (tel 045-252-2221); it's 7.5%
alcohol by volume, and packs of four 330ml bottles go for 900
yen--about the price of a single *glass* of something Belgian
and moderately exotic the last time I ventured into a "Belgian
beer bar."
Philip Cop writes:
I have been to Bois Celeste (the Belgian beer bar) only once
but it is by far my No. 1 (favorite) bar in Japan. The
friendliness of Mr.Yamada alone helps me forget the fact that
I am paying about 5 times what I would pay for a delightful
Belgian beer in my home country (of Belgium).
BEER FIELD TRIP: Saturday, February 22 -- 2 to 6 pm
Join me for a visit to the Koedo Brewery in Kawagoe, Saitama.
Koedo brews from malt extract instead of actual malt grain, so
according to Japanese law the product is not beer but "happo-
shu." It will be interesting to find out how these brews
taste, especially their lager made with satsuma-imo (a kind of
sweet potato). "This spud's for you!"
We'll meet in Ikebukuro at 2 pm, and plan to return there by
about 6 pm. If you'd like to come along, please call Bryan at
(03) 3468-0964 on weekdays.
Got some Good Beer tips to pass along? Send them to the
Brews News before the end of the month. Thanks!
** CHEERS! 97/2/7 **
Brews News copyright (c) Bryan Harrell and contributors.
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